Location: Venezuela boat hull design (pad design) Hello, my name is Cristian,this is my firth time here, and i would like to know somebody hellp me. I have a powerboa 16? vee fiverglass 22? 140hp looper, and i like to put in it a pad but i don?t know the dimensions (size), and how it comport in the boat, i have very much time driving boat, but never with pad, and i need the pad for more speed and woul like to know about the size of a box of water that the people do for blow off in final of transon and bow.
I'm not familiar with the calculations for retrofitting an existing hull with a pad; most boats I see with one have it built in from the start.
Location: Venezuela thanks matt, bu i like to know what is small size in inchs.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Italy (Garda Lake) and Croatia (Istria) I don't get items 2, 3 and 4.
The rounded shoulders between the skeg and hull allowing the engine to be lowered as claimed in 4 also makes sense to me. Their website is predictably light on numbers to back up any claims of increased efficiency. Location: Eustis, FL A bunch of preformance enhancements, yet burdened with all the extra area and drag.
Location: Milwaukee, WI A boat with so much draft needs to be really heavy to float on her designed lines. Originally Posted by gonzo A boat with so much draft needs to be really heavy to float on her designed lines.
Location: Milwaukee, WI Look at the proportion of the designed waterline to length of hull.
FF FAST FRED View Public Profile View FAST FRED's Gallery Find all posts by FAST FRED Page 1 of 3 1 23 > « Help, my first 40ft boat is way too cheap! Location: Southern England Renato Levi Wrote three books on the subject of designing Powerboats. Best book currently available on powerboat hydrodynamics is Hydrodynamics of High-Speed Marine Vehicles, by Odd M. If you are working in Aluminum, go to ABS, Lloyd's, or ISO and get rules for construction of high-speed vessels. Jet boats are tricky, most major water-jet manufacturers have lots of data on what works, talk to the supplier. A phenomenon known as porpoising can occur if you are not caqrefull of what you are doing on the bottom, particurly in the 6' infront of the transom. Make the delta pad on the bottom nice and long, no-one says that the boat needs a 'keel', where the bottom sheets meet to form the vee. Look at other jet boat manufacturers and what they do, we spend many hours making sure we get it right so we can sell a safe and well performing product. As has been said the key is power to weight and planing area in both laden and light conditions.
Full construction plans and build instructions are available for all the boats in this list.
The Almaguin 400 is a versatile 4-metre utility runabout, designed with cottagers, anglers and day trippers in mind.
The design was inspired by Phil Bolger's Diablo, a simple, practical and well-performing boat that has served me well for many years. The Almaguin hull is of a double-V configuration; it can also be thought of as a deep-V with a shallow-V pad.
The Almaguin 400 is just about the largest boat that can be comfortably car-topped (although a trailer is preferable), and it'll fit (barely) in the bed of a full-size pickup with the tailgate down.
A first-time builder assembling the boat in his spare time should allow four to eight months for the build; an experienced, motivated builder familiar with taped-seam construction will likely find that she can produce an Almaguin hull in seven to ten working days, possibly less.
The plan set for each of the Almaguins consists of five C-size (18 x 24 inch) pages and a ten-page build instructions booklet. It's cheaper for you, and more environmentally friendly, to have the drawings printed at a local shop instead of paying a courier to transport a roll of paper. The Almaguin 500 is a versatile 5-metre utility runabout, designed with cottagers, anglers and day trippers in mind. The Awenda design concept originated in 2007 as a simple, sturdy, trailerable power cruiser for my own use. Their closest relatives would likely be Tom Lathrop's Bluejacket, Paul Bieker's Shearwater and Will Allison's Graphite.
I have done some model tests on the 10 m version, with very promising results, and the hull design is complete. Her lines include a substantial box skeg for directional stability and to get the engine down low.
Her commercial-style pilothouse offers standing headroom for a proper helm station and a galley large enough to actually cook in.
The drawings for the Starwind 860 are currently in work, and construction of hull number one is underway. Boston Previous Member   which is why I posted lines of the Downeast hull form, so folks could get a clear image of the type of hull commonly associated with a lobster boat. If your using a hull form of a traditional lobster boat people just might refer to is as such, specially if the top sides and sheer also resemble the layout. Location: Flattop Islands Once again Boston you have posted a question that could be addressed by writing 3-4 books.
From Massachusetts to Nova Scotia there are hundreds of versions of Downeast Lobster Boat hulls, some good , some bad, some indifferent.
Understand that these boats are built to make money, everything else is just gravy, if they don't make money they are put out to pasture. Originally Posted by Tad Once again Boston you have posted a question that could be addressed by writing 3-4 books.


A stretched version of White Pine will produce a very easily driven hull, if the weight is kept in check. I would imagine that often the boats are loaded down with pots only a few times a year, at least the inshore boats, the pots spending most of the time in the water. I?m in the process of setting myself up for retirement and part of the plan is to upgrade my boat.
I would like to be able to go across to Tasmania (120 - 450 nm depending on landfall chosen) or coastal hop up to the Great Barrier Reef and on to Darwin (longest leg I'd do around 450 nm).
I do like the looks of White Pine but think it may be a little slow (her max is listed as 15 knots and I'd like to have some in reserve).
The production boats available in Australia do not ?tick all my boxes? so I am seriously looking at building here (importing is not very attractive at current exchange rates) and we have 3-4 competent wooden boat builders where I live so this seems like my best option. If she's kept simple (light) you could expect 14 knots with about 120 HP at the prop and 12 knots with 73 HP. I got some feed back on onother forum that the down east hull is stable to a degree but in heavier seas its stability drops off fast. I like the way the beam narrows toward the stern and I also like the ?raised? floor and kitchen up in the main cabin area. The head could be a fraction bigger so the ?shower? has a bit more room (I?d use this for hanging wet gear as well).
Finally, last night I became aware of some select grade Alaskan Yellow Cedar planks (6? x 1? & 10? x 1?) that are available in near me, so I am thinking that this would be a good timber for planking the boat as I?m told it is light, strong and easy to work. She has a round bilge clinker planked marine plywood hull with an open wheelhouse and a lower cabin with moderate flare forward and good size cockpit deck, strongly raked stem, transom stern and hinged timber slatted marlin platform. There is a very long way between these educated guesses and the real life finished boat, but the expectations are roughly in the range of possible. The largest single weight in this boat will be the fuel load, so that capacity needs to be considered carefully.
Location: Flattop Islands I'm also very jealous of the Yanmar engines available in Australia. A 60' hull that displaces 53,400 pounds will require 44 Hp at the prop for 9 knots in flat water, no bearing looses, alternator drag, no current, wind, waves, no bottom growth, no appendages, etc.
Originally Posted by Tad I'm also very jealous of the Yanmar engines available in Australia.
Mast and Spar Construction for Small Boats – Written by Karl Stambaugh, this new e-book is an illustrated text on the simple (once you understand the technique) process of making masts and spars for small boats.  Answers the “What do I do first” questions for first time builders. Electric Boat Hull Design – Proper hull characteristics are essential for efficient application of electric power.  Learn what it takes to have an efficient hull and more. One of the design goals appear to be large interior volume within the constraints of being trailerable in North America. With all these advantages, each Cutwater model offers the range to expand everyoneis cruise horizons while providing exceptional comfort underway. Along either side of the keel where it meets the bottom is a rounded shoulder where the machinery compartment has been expanded to allow positioning the engine low in the hull. Well forward, the raked stem curves downward near the waterline to a slender, near-vertical forefoot that cuts oncoming waves to ensure a smooth ride. Normally one thinks of a skeg as a loner sitting back there in many cases acting as an attachment point for the rudder. The merc sj175 does offer a reasonable amount of thrust, but the downside is that in their infinate wisdom, Mercury put the exhaust from the engine in the cavity between the hull and jet unit.
I tend to think of those that do as 'old school', and perhaps we should scrap the shuttle and fly the appollo missions again.
As in aerospace, the trailing edges create a vortex, much like the tips of a wing, only in water that usually means that air is bled off, if that air makes it to the intake the pump will cavitate causing loss of thrust. I like them, I think they'll work, but the plans aren't fully developed and the engineering isn't complete. When heavily loaded (190 kg a€?official rateda€? capacity), it is a versatile working boat, capable of hauling heaps of crew and gear on inland lakes and rivers. The Almaguin is designed to offer similar performance and carrying ability to the Diablo, with a drier and more comfortable ride in rough conditions. When lightly loaded at rest, the Almaguins will feel a bit tippy, and will roll 10 degrees or so as people move around and get in and out (they are, however, very hard to roll past this angle).
Appropriate engines are 20a€? shaft outboards from 7 to 30 hp (20 hp if tiller steered), the middle of that range being generally ideal. Some possible suggestions are included in the build instructions, but the final layout is up to the builder's discretion (subject to certain structural limitations regarding cut-down bulkheads, detailed further in the plans). A potential builder should already be familiar with standard power tools (circular saw, band saw, drill, etc.), should be able to accurately measure and mark co-ordinates on a flat sheet, and should either have experience with taped-seam construction, or read up on the method through books and builders' articles.
The plans are distributed as PDF files, and if desired, you can also receive a copy in DWF6 or DWFx ePlot formats at no extra cost. When heavily loaded (415 kg a€?official rateda€? capacity), it is a versatile working boat, capable of hauling heaps of crew and gear on inland lakes and rivers.
Appropriate engines are 20a€? shaft outboards from 15 to 60 hp (40 hp if tiller steered), the middle of that range being generally ideal.
Originally conceived as a 10 m boat, I later developed 8, 8.5 and 9 m hulls based on the same general design. With appropriate power, they should be able to reach the high 20s, and are designed to have no discernable planing hump. At about 1500 kg for the 8 m and 2500 kg for the 10 m when empty, the Awendas are of moderate displacement for their class- a bit larger and a fair bit heavier than the Bluejacket or Shearwater, slightly smaller than the Graphite, and quite light when compared to mass-produced fibreglass boats of similar size.
After the model tests, though, I decided that the Starwind 860 would be a better fit for my personal needs in the near future, and development on the Awenda was put on hold in favour of the Starwind. Lacking a transom, she'll be able to take considerably bigger seas on the stern than most 19-footers, but she still has enough bearing aft to keep from squatting at speed when she's loaded down with gear.


Her structural and construction drawings are currently being prepared, and will be available as stock plans. She's intended to be a versatile, practical boat for a wide variety of duties on inland lakes and canals, the Great Lakes, and coastal regions. Don't hold your breath- as a personal project, this boat tends to end up at the bottom of the work pile, and I'd be very surprised if she hits the water before 2014. No way they would be so popular among the fishermen if they were not well suited to it; not just the bay, but the open New England waters as well. I have recently joined the Royal Victorian Motor Yacht Club and this has given me the opportunity to look at a wide variety of boats and narrow down what I would like?.. I have looked at a locally built boat, a Cheviot 32, and it is lovely but just a bit to small for me, plus access to the bow is more difficult than I would like. Do you have any suggestions on how this design could be ?improved? to achieve (or exceed) these sort of targets while still meeting what I am after? The lower cabin has a kitchenette, a separate toilet with wash basin and two bench seats that have been set up to convert to a basic double berth.
This in turn lowers the boatis center of gravity for greater stability, and allows lowering the main deck structure to provide greater interior headroom while preserving the boatis attractive exterior profile. This nuance also extends the waterline to improve fuel efficiency, and allows fuller sections throughout the forward hull sections for greater useable interior space.
I suspect that as the speed increases with the Cutwater, so to would the consumprion as a reult of the increased drag from all those 'interuptions'. As I remember, they are nigh impossible to get hold of (you may have to order directly if you can find the website) but they are well worth reading. If you have a 'rocker' the boat will bounce around, or porpoise, if it has a hook it will bow steer badly, possibly causing the boat to spin in a turn.
Look at not only straight line performance, but also where any vorticied will end up in a tight turn (if you terminate your strakes ahead of the intake), if the unit cavitates during a turn and you loose thruse, a real nice jet spin often occurs, sometimes at an inconvient moment!!!
I don't have much time to devote to these designs at the moment, but I'll add a few more to this page as the opportunities present themselves.
After offloading the cargo and surplus crew, and opening the throttle, the Almaguins act more like racing hulls- capable of towing waterskiers and pushing 30-knot speeds in flat water.
The construction methods used for this boat will be familiar to anyone who has worked with stitch-and-glue construction or the a€?tack and tapea€? models from Bolger's a€?instant boata€? series. If the Almaguin is lightly loaded, the water will begin to break away from the inner chine as the hull accelerates. Lofting the panels onto the plywood is neither difficult nor complicated- as long as you can use a tape, square, pencil and batten, you should have few difficulties lofting the panel layouts by hand. If you don't have a local print shop, I can arrange for printed copies to be couriered to you (at cost).
The aim was to provide a more comfortable, more efficient ride than a typical deep-V in the lower speed ranges where most cruising folk tend to run their boats. The structural calculations, interior layouts and construction details have not yet been prepared.
You like doing a few hours a day on the water, then checking out a new seaside town for a while.
With a balanced, double-ended full displacement hull, she can carry a huge load of provisions with ease, and will be far more comfortable in rough seas than just about any other powerboat of this length. A flat keel, 70 cm wide at midship, is armoured and ballasted with 25 mm (1") steel plate so that she can take the ground at will. On passage, lee cloths will keep the off-watch crew in place; in harbour, a filler cushion turns this area into a comfortable landlubber-size double berth. Trimarans are a lot of work to build- there's no way around that, and it's the main reason why you don't see many of them coming off production lines. Brant rock ( well off the south shore ) has got so many buoys floating around it you could walk across em and its out in the middle of nowhere, definitely not protected water and we fixed plenty of boats that worked there. Together, these refinements enable the Cutwater hull to deliver an ultra-smooth ride and superior performance, plus an extra measure of comfort and convenience, adding up to unexcelled cruising enjoyment.
Unlike typical stitch-and-glue construction, the panels of these boats are not stitched together with wire; they are tacked to the bulkheads one by one as the hull is assembled. The entry is relatively sharp, there is more freeboard than usual for boats this size, and the motor well presents an effectively full-height transom to a following sea; thus, the Almaguin should be somewhat drier and more comfortable in heavy conditions than a typical aluminum skiff of comparable dimensions. The boat is now running on the relatively narrow 7-degree V, with a considerable improvement in top speed; the outer V now serves as a raceboat style anti-trip chine.
The construction effort involved would be well within the reach of an ambitious home builder with carpentry experience, and would be a pretty easy project for a professional wood-and-fibreglass shop. 12 kW (16 hp) will give her a 5 knot top speed with plenty of power on tap for punching into a head wind. The front of the engine can be checked from inside the cabin, and a large hatch in the cockpit sole allows easy access to the entire powertrain without dismantling any furniture. The structural bulkheads form the only building jig required, and remain a part of the finished boat.
Her hull is divided into sealed compartments by watertight bulkheads, some of which also form her large integral fuel tanks. You want enough space to live aboard for a few months, but you also want a boat that's small enough to avoid undue attention from folks who want your money.



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