10kts is on the verge of semi-planing for a beamy 9m hull and there is likely to be squat that Michlet does not take into account. Russ, since this a NEW build, I very strongly suggest bow thrusters, and maybe stern thrusters, be built in.
Hope I don't hurt anyone's feelings, but there is usually a large gap between design and reality. Originally Posted by Sternwheel Rat The wheel needs a lot of water to pull from under the hull, and a flat transom will create an eddy in front of the wheel.
Location: namibia Actually, any car axle can be used to brake one wheel or the other.
Using a tractor assembly, engine (tractors are usually derated) would turn the paddle wheels slowly.
A 4 cyl 3.8 litre has only 80HP, weighs only 260kg, A 6 cyl has 120 HP and any air cooled engine would not have clogged intakes and overheating problems.
Location: malaysia Paddlewheel Propulsion System Project Hi, I just successfully completed test-run the barge with stern paddlewheel propulsion system.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Along the past decades, more and more people have learned how to use hand and power tools for their diy wood working projects and a lot has been done lately in the diy boat building area. A lot of these people are turned off by the thought of making something that is not all square corners. Constructing the first boat, doesn’t matter how small it is, is an experience not to be soon forgotten. In this article I would like to show you some types of boat bottom that is commonly used in boatbuilding. You can see on the picture in the post the essential differences between the framing of flat,  vee, arc, and round-bottomed hulls. All Web Site Graphics, Layout, and Written Content at this Domain Created by Michael Kasten. Location: Nova Scotia 70's Tri-hull repair So I have a old Tri-hull that I decided to replace the carpet in and ended up opening up a big can of worms.
Offset Tables And Lines Drawings » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post tri-hull or v with sponsons? David (or someone with a similar name) also pitched the question on the Boat Design Engineering drawings for Narrowboats A?117. Our narrowboats are high specification and suitable for living aboard, or for fantastic luxury holidays.
Narrowboat Art, is c giftware and is also known as c art, c boat art, cware, boat art, barge art or bargeware art. Everything will be designed a fabricated from scratch, except for the engines, and the boat hull. Some preliminary structural analysis was been performed to check the feasibility of the design. I'd like to share with the community a good example of a recent hull sailing yacht which I developed in almost all parts represented, including lines plan in the three basic views, hydrostatic calculation and Polar Diagram for Velocity Performance Prediction.
Long ago I was taught that there are four key drawings (plus calculations) required to define a vessel, that has not changed even though we have moved to 3D representation.
While modern design offices are fond of breaking these four drawings down into booklets of smaller drawings each illustrating one facet of the boat.


As one who has posted all of the drawings that Tad has mentioned over the years that I've been lurking about here, I too think it would be nice to see more real design represented. But then we can't really expect to see truly complete sets of drawings, posted for any and all to use as their own. Will, I thought the Option one thread dwindled because, after many had posted their preferences for the design, there was no real consensus on the direction the design should take. A committee designed object is almost always less successful in most every way than the product of one or two people. Location: australia Yades I think there?s more than enough info in fact there?s to much, you lose the gaussian plot and move the lines windows around so they are not partially obscured by the hydrostatics output window I would like to have seen the wl?s aft. Originally Posted by bhnautika Yades I think there?s more than enough info in fact there?s to much, you lose the gaussian plot and move the lines windows around so they are not partially obscured by the hydrostatics output window I would like to have seen the wl?s aft. Will make some tests with the software to see output data on trim under heeling conditions.
Location: home appreciated the published information You presented the subject in aprofessional way, appreciated your contribution a lot. I am a bit new to Rhino, so if anyone here can help me, regarding how to create the deck, superstructure, bowtruster etc., for an excisting hull already designed in Rhino, it will be greatly appreciated! If it is a sailboat hull in which the superstructure (cabin roof) is rather small, the main part of the superstucture for your boat will be deck.
Only with Rhino, this deck,with a camber in it, won't be easy to do, but you can try, see my dwgs !
Location: Arlington, WA-USA what if you took your rudder and designed it to be driven back and fourth like those Hobie peddle yaks or whatever they call them. I can likely design such a drive for you, I am a mechanical engineer with many years experience. Instead of having the props all the way aft, where they are likely to come out of the water, I could possibly move them just forward of the rudder, but have them as part of the kick up system, essentially kicking up on the same cassette as the rudders do. CatBuilder Previous Member   Other ideas in this thread are great too.
2) If your engine looked like the following at the drive shaft (most do), how would you set up both a drive shaft *and* a generator head to run from this engine? CatBuilder Previous Member   Jeff, the terminology might be getting us.
I have set the speed at 3.16kts as this is roughly on the same part of the hull resistance curve as the full scale boat at 10kts.
ALL sternwheelers have the rudders in front of the wheel, and I have to wonder, if your statement is true, then why did they build them that way for over a hundred years?
It's hard to find drawings of old hulls below the waterline, but I would describe it as a stern rake, with a sharp curvature.
That is what the purpose of the diff is.However, you would need a difflock engaghed when you are not maneuvering. The Tractor engine have W extention, That means they have a counter balance shaft and no vibrations at all. Boat building process usually involves bending wood or other flat material to form curved shapes and that discourages people.
Watching a hull grow from flat paper drawings and flat material into a shapely form provides hours of fun and is super therapy after a stressful day. The relative merits of the hull types are argued far and wide, but just about everyone will admit that there will never be a v-bottomed hull as handsome as a well designed round-bottomed boat, especially for a sailing craft.


Although the lower ends of the frames in the round – bottomed boats are shown butted against the keel, it is sometimes possible, depending on the hull shape, to install them in one piece, extending from the deck on one side to the deck on the other side. As you can see by the pics some master boat builder tried to quick fix the rotten stringers and cross members. We will take the propeller which we carved out of hard Maple and build an airboat around it. The Option One thread had the potential to deliver just this, but sadly interest seems to have dried up, just when when the project was reaching the point where some real documentation might have emerged, which is not entirely surprising. As designers, of course, we would often be called upon to come up with designs that we'd never want for ourselves - your own 'heavier' 28(?) footer is a prime example; similar to the BJ24, but with a slightly different set of goals. I'm not a Navel Engineer, or an expert on anything, but I have to have faith in the experience of the men who were, and my own experience owning and operating this type of vessel. This is where you mount the rudders, so that water can be pulled accross them for steering. When they look into boatbuilding plans and see that it usually starts with a lines plan and the attendant table of offsets that dimensions the curves they usually don’t move from there. When the job is carefully done, the finished vessel is a source of great pride to the builder. Otherwise someone in Europe may offer a link, - or else, - the Phillipines - as there seemed to be quite a bit of SS work in the passenger Jeepneys? And the wheel is mounted at, or above the bottom of the hull so it does'nt hit the bottom first. Incredibley durable, they are used in SA goldmines at a dept of 4000m in dust and dirt and heat. Unless the paddle is very close to the side of the boat, it would only be a varying degree of pushing water sideways. And unlike a piece of furniture, which is often put in a corner and soon forgotten, a boat is used over and over for owner’s pleasure for quite some years.
On the other hand, frames are spaced farther apart than in a round-bottomed boat, so the frames are fewer in number.
It looks like originally there where 2 stringers running the full length of the boat with maybe a cross member or 2. Think of it this way, push a blade flat against the water, it's tough, because you are moving lots of water. I never comment on styling as it?s a personal choice but I think some form of rear boarding access may be worth considering for this style of boat. One other thing with such a wide stern I would like to see the relationship between heel angle and trim.
My current boat has monkey rudders, because it did a lot of turning while backing, as an auto Ferry on the Ohio river. Remember, sternwheelers were designed to be shallow draft boats.Your chevron wheel design is not new, just tried and abandoned. Your aversion to electric is unfounded, unless you intend to mount all your power and drive outdoors.




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