Boston Previous Member   which is why I posted lines of the Downeast hull form, so folks could get a clear image of the type of hull commonly associated with a lobster boat. If your using a hull form of a traditional lobster boat people just might refer to is as such, specially if the top sides and sheer also resemble the layout. Location: Flattop Islands Once again Boston you have posted a question that could be addressed by writing 3-4 books. From Massachusetts to Nova Scotia there are hundreds of versions of Downeast Lobster Boat hulls, some good , some bad, some indifferent. Understand that these boats are built to make money, everything else is just gravy, if they don't make money they are put out to pasture. Originally Posted by Tad Once again Boston you have posted a question that could be addressed by writing 3-4 books.
A stretched version of White Pine will produce a very easily driven hull, if the weight is kept in check. I would imagine that often the boats are loaded down with pots only a few times a year, at least the inshore boats, the pots spending most of the time in the water. I?m in the process of setting myself up for retirement and part of the plan is to upgrade my boat.
I would like to be able to go across to Tasmania (120 - 450 nm depending on landfall chosen) or coastal hop up to the Great Barrier Reef and on to Darwin (longest leg I'd do around 450 nm). I do like the looks of White Pine but think it may be a little slow (her max is listed as 15 knots and I'd like to have some in reserve).
The production boats available in Australia do not ?tick all my boxes? so I am seriously looking at building here (importing is not very attractive at current exchange rates) and we have 3-4 competent wooden boat builders where I live so this seems like my best option.
If she's kept simple (light) you could expect 14 knots with about 120 HP at the prop and 12 knots with 73 HP.
I got some feed back on onother forum that the down east hull is stable to a degree but in heavier seas its stability drops off fast. I like the way the beam narrows toward the stern and I also like the ?raised? floor and kitchen up in the main cabin area. The head could be a fraction bigger so the ?shower? has a bit more room (I?d use this for hanging wet gear as well).
Finally, last night I became aware of some select grade Alaskan Yellow Cedar planks (6? x 1? & 10? x 1?) that are available in near me, so I am thinking that this would be a good timber for planking the boat as I?m told it is light, strong and easy to work. She has a round bilge clinker planked marine plywood hull with an open wheelhouse and a lower cabin with moderate flare forward and good size cockpit deck, strongly raked stem, transom stern and hinged timber slatted marlin platform. There is a very long way between these educated guesses and the real life finished boat, but the expectations are roughly in the range of possible. The largest single weight in this boat will be the fuel load, so that capacity needs to be considered carefully. Location: Flattop Islands I'm also very jealous of the Yanmar engines available in Australia. A 60' hull that displaces 53,400 pounds will require 44 Hp at the prop for 9 knots in flat water, no bearing looses, alternator drag, no current, wind, waves, no bottom growth, no appendages, etc.
Originally Posted by Tad I'm also very jealous of the Yanmar engines available in Australia.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: New Jersy Where can I find some hull photographs or manufacturers that make very good hull designs ? Assuming a boat about 20' & V8 The attached perspective drawing shows you what I did on the Cherubini 20 bottom for the jet drive. I have used a similar bottom for the Saetta 20, which originally had an inboard drive, and I have just reshaped the hull for a jet drive using a Hamilton jet. Boat should not bow hook or become airborne unless I am stupid or showing off like a nut in a 21' X 4' boat. From the perspective view and the side (below) it looks like you have effectively taken a chunk out of the bottom to produce a flat for the jet intake.
When we built the hull molds for this design, the hull plug was carved out of foam at DLBA Robotics in Virginia, and it had the full V, not cut away.
Location: New Zealand Had you considered the merits of running the flat area (which we refer to as the 'delta', not sure of the origins but it could be due to the triangular shape) from the transom to just forrard of amidships?
Yes, in fact, I did go through a rendition of the hull lines with a flat on the bottom exactly as Mat-C describes, not inclined like Speedboat's photo, and got all the way through general arrangement drawings. If I had to do it over again to provide a jet design in a speedboat, I would do it the same way with the bottom shape that I have developed, which I have used on a number of boat designs--the boats trim out and handle very well. Sea-cubed’s grp design, manufacturing, construction and project management experience gives us the tools to provide you with exactly the help needed to make composite materials the right choice for your project.
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I am seriously thinking of buying a power boat to cruise the inner passage of British Columbia. You all seem to be great experts, so I hope this question doesn?t appear too naive and I beg your pardon if it does. It is perfectly possible to find a boat in your price range, likely at less money than a comparable sport-fishing boat. You could also get in touch with a local boat broker and tell him what you are looking for. Honestly I wouldnt be so worried that the boat has to be aluminium, for a fast boat it becomes more desirable, but the hallmark of displacement hulls is that they can take lots of weight for their size. I had already looked at used boats ? even narrowed my search to trawlers in the north west ? and noticed that there are many for sale for my budget, but I would rather buy a new boat.


Plus I understand that unpainted aluminum doesn't require any ? or very little ? maintenance and I guess it will take me a while to pass from zero boating to understanding how to take good care of a hull.
What I liked about the fishing boats is that they look sturdy and no-nonsense ? or at least not too much ? and I understand that you can personalize them, like a longer or shorter cabin.
Location: Flattop Islands A new boat within your $150k budget is quite small. Look for something around 10 years old, with diesel(s), and less than 1,000 hours on the engines (the first rebuild is usually at around 3-5,000), and get a good survey. Location: italy Thanks again to all, and here are a few more bits of info about my plans. First, mine is planning ahead because I should be spending six month along the British Columbia coast but only in 2014. As said I had first thought of a sport fishing boat because they look sturdy, no-nonsense and relatively cheap.
My ideal boat would have a thin and long hull to save on fuel, no expensive wood and few gadgets, but work boat type finishing, a good heating and new systems: I'm not what you'd call a DIY type of guy, so a broken diesel engine to me is just a broken diesel engine. Yacht or workboat finish - Being willing to sacrifice on finish can be an asset when looking at boats, but only if you are positive you want to live on board a boat that feels like a industrial plant, with exposed pipes, wires, and fixtures. If you were to buy new, it would means systems designed around the intended use of that boat, with little consideration for comfort, or livability. New, used, or custom - Frankly I think a new or custom boat for you will eat up so much of you available budget that you would be forced into a much smaller boat than you want for little gain. A good used boat on the other hand is probably from a production run, so those issues are already dealt with, and the cost of buying new has already been written off by the first owner.
Location: italy Stumble, I really appreciate what you say and agree that you are probably right about having more boat with a used boat than with having one custom made. About the industrial finish, I meant rubber floors and what else versus wood and plush carpeting, but hell no I do not want it to be a work boat.
What you say about design and new fabrication sounds perfectly reasonable, only perhaps not very flattering for the boat designers who hang around this forum. By the way, what would you think of a 1960ish wooden Grand Banks: there are quite a few for sale in the northwest, and I really like their simple layout and looks, so much more stylish than the multi deck trawlers of other big brand names.
A big marine diesel, or even a small one like you are thinking of, in the 100-200hp range normally are pulled from industrial used, like tractors, and 18 wheelers. By far the most common problem I have experienced is bad fuel, or a clogged fuel filter (commonly called RACOR's). Coolant - there is a water pump, if it's pumping water your good, if not you replace the impeller.
The problem is a decent marine mechanic normally charges 1-200 for the service call, an hour minimum of time, and an hour to return to his shop. I would recommend you look in either aluminium or fiberglass, though steel is also reasonable. Location: italy Oh, don't worry Stumble, it takes more than that to scare me out of my project. Originally Posted by Stumble 4 Most of these big diesels need an oil change every 48-72 hours of run time, so even a long weekend running could cost you $1,000. No way they would be so popular among the fishermen if they were not well suited to it; not just the bay, but the open New England waters as well. I have recently joined the Royal Victorian Motor Yacht Club and this has given me the opportunity to look at a wide variety of boats and narrow down what I would like?..
I have looked at a locally built boat, a Cheviot 32, and it is lovely but just a bit to small for me, plus access to the bow is more difficult than I would like. Do you have any suggestions on how this design could be ?improved? to achieve (or exceed) these sort of targets while still meeting what I am after?
The lower cabin has a kitchenette, a separate toilet with wash basin and two bench seats that have been set up to convert to a basic double berth. Minimum bottom angle ~10 deg helps in keeping intake free from bubbles generated at spray-root forward. Jetsprint boats run a transom deadrise angle up around 24*, I've used 19* extremely successfully with a warped bottom. The same gusset blocks will be used on both sides of anything holding the marine plywood skins on.
The flat area forrard becomes quite narrow so as to minimise the effect of 'slamming' etc that you suggest. I suppose I always assumed it would be done as a horizontal version of what speedboats has pictured, as in the pic below.
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This boat concept has to represent flexibility as it will be available for general hire or organized trips, special occasions, meetings, or venues. Therefore, this boat has been designed as a shallow-draft boat with 2 hulls, it is stable and agile at both high and low speed.
By searching the net I gather that for somewhere around 150 thousand dollars it is possible to buy one of those aluminum 30 to 40 foot sport fishing vessels which I do not though want because of the planning hull and the fuel bills it would imply. Even assuming the same hull design, and equipment the large engines required to drive a boat that fast can cost a hundred thousand dollars or more new, and on a boat this size could price at $50,000 for the used engines (or more). I hadn?t realized that just the engines of those boats could cost so much, but actually it figures considering their power.
I for example would spend some money for insulation because I sort of dream of cruising up north when - if ever ? I?ll feel sufficiently confident with my boating skills. Do you think some of the boatyards that make the planning hull ones could make one with a displacement hull, or does it require totally different skills and workmanship? Say anything in the last 10 years or so that hasn't been abused will be fine, it might take a little bit of time and money to work out the bugs, but you have the same problem with new boats.
I am though planning to spend about one month this fall or early spring 2013 in the Vancouver area to learn how to handle a boat, look at used boats and learn as much as possible.
Somewhere on the net I think I remember finding a shipyard offering a new 28 foot one for less than 90.000 $, but I didn't really look at the details. Basically this limits you to boats already built for the industrial world, and come with those limitations, and designs available.
They are also typically much larger, with much more powerful engines, and much higher equipment costs than a boat built for private use. This will give you the background to fix about 90% of the problems you will encounter on the water.


This is actually the second most expensive option, since most small boat captains don't get paid much, and do it for the love of boating. Of course for major engine repair this is still necessary, but paying someone to do oil changes, and replace filters can be really expensive. If anything I think of some refinement as an little extra budget, perhaps to be done later on. In any case I'd thought it could be possible to build on a proven hull design, but I don't know, I'm here to learn. These are very robust engines with a long service life but they do need ongoing maintenance, just like a car to live out a full lifespan. The solution to this is pull the filter, replace the filter, prime the system, and start the motor. I see where you are going, but on most boats the cost of nice woodwork, vs the cost of unfinished is minimal. There are members here who disagree, and I understand their arguments, but a wood boat to me is just a undiscovered maintenance problem waiting to happen.
A good survey should cost no more than $2,000, and should uncover all the issues needed at purchase. Tunnel Boats, vee hulls, tunnel hull design, tunnel boat plans, racing boat plans, vee pad boats, tunnel hulls, boat racing plans, race boat plans, bass boats, F1.
Brant rock ( well off the south shore ) has got so many buoys floating around it you could walk across em and its out in the middle of nowhere, definitely not protected water and we fixed plenty of boats that worked there. I would have though it would create a bit of turbulence in front of the jet, as well as a possible area of 'negative pressure'. Although it does rotate the jet giving a 'trim up' effect, depending on the pump you use they have a 5* down angle on them anyway (to allow sump clearance for the motor to the bottom of the hull. That would give a flat 'pad' for the boat to ride on - quite common in many faster boats I believe - but avoid any potential turbulence problems.
Most were outboards, though some were also fitted with sterndrives and I think even a few jets. It has to allow passengers to have free 360-degree view instead of facing forward as if they were on a bus. The design team came up with the idea of growing a boat from its hull, it creates connection between the top and the hull as a single continuous element. This unit has been especially designed for a luxury yacht, a […]Gorilla Yacht Concept Features Atrium Garden At Its Central Point Gorilla Yacht concept was inspired by an atrium house, with 73-meter long and 2 courtyards, this yacht can be considered as a mega yacht. Would it be possible to have a similar vessel with a displacement hull for about the same much money? But of course a used trawler, better if steel, remains an option if I can?t find a new boat. Anchors for instance are not normally included in a new boats price, but they come for free when buying used. Having though understood the advantages of displacement hulls, I have dropped my initial plan and by reading through these pages I have sort of fallen in love with the idea of having one custom made, but I realize it could well be just daydreaming. Remember they have a whole host of commercial regulations they must comply with that a private boat doesn't. Simply because the cost of design and fabrication can't be spread out over a large number of similar ships. I just looked at a 10 year old used sailboat with 14 hours on the engine, and 4 hours on the generator.
It will get you a lot more boat (quality and quantity), than you could otherwise afford, it will have a lot of the new boat bugs worked out by someone else, and if you decide to sell it you won't loose nearly as much, assuming you keep it in reasonable shape. Even if you just hire him for a year or two to teach you how to run the boat, this is a pretty good option. It is also common to have an oil change pump that sucks up the old oil, then you just poor in the new, and switch filters.
If the impeller is good then it's normally the heat exchanger either being low on coolant so you add more (just like filling up a radiator), or the exchanger is clogged ( call a mechanic to fix it). By the time you add it all up for an oil change that takes 20 minutes you are paying for 8 hours of mechanic time. Marine furniture is usually structural to the boat in some regard, and so has to be built strong, if not pretty.
The boat will travel around the city of Nantes and the port town of saint-Nazaire and create connection between these towns, it can accommodate up to 200 passengers.
A closed loop that forms 2 hulls and crosses over itself to form 2 storeys of open decks and indoor space. Simply because most commercial operators own boats for a long time to justify their purchase. This is the extreme, but may boats rarely if ever leave the dock, and the owners eventually are done paying for something they don't use, and sell them cheap.
In other words, if I were to buy a used one, I would then have to spend more money on updating hardware and, before that, for someone to verify the hull and all that.
Knowing how to do it yourself might cost 20-50 depending on the amount of oil, and filter size. They should know which yards and maintenance guys are good, and help you get any defered maintenance done at a reasonable price. However, Studio Job’s new Firmship 42 is […]EM414 Concept Boat Is Inspired by The Design of Ray and Charles Eames EM414 Boat is a weekend getaway launch, sitting at just over 12 metres long and powered by twin Cummins jet engines. I love the signature sentence at the end of your post, but unfortunately I never though of screwing with a boat. Just these few tricks will cover everything you can generally do yourself onboard anyway with the parts you are likely to have.
So on a 500k boat most people are ok if 5,000 is for varnish and wood trim, vs saving a little. Generally I figure 5-10% of the purchase price will go towards immediate maintenance issues, more if there is a specific problem.
While the Tunnel Boat derives much of its high performance from air lift, it depends at the same time on its planing interaction with the water to maintain a stable. Prather 32 inch racing tunnel hull boat 7.5cc outboard # 1058 hydro fiberglass While the Tunnel Boat derives much of its high performance from air lift, it depends at the same time on its planing interaction with the water to maintain a stable and.



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