Location: gold coast Water Dynamic Hull Form Which hull stern is more water dynamic (has less drag) in a forward motion, taking into account the anti foul line is about 50mm above the water line?
Location: Australia Gawd, hard to get a clear sense of what we are looking at there. Location: gold coast Sorry forgot to mention, non planing full displacement hull average speed 8 knts. Location: Italy (Garda Lake) and Croatia (Istria) It's Bauhaus applied to boat design!
As Ad Hoc and PAR said, none of the above forms are really efficient at low displacement speeds, the biggest problem being the high wetted surface area and the transom stern.
But I guess your bauhaus was probably not intended for voyages anyways, but rather for short trips from one (more or less) permanent mooring to another.
Location: Australia The one with the anti-fouling certainly would have went better with a shallower angle of departure, or a curved exit, than what looks to be at least 30 degrees at the stern, but pottering around at sedate speeds should be OK. Location: Okinawa, Japan For the purpose of that craft, both cutaways are a waste of time and take away useful buoyancy. Originally Posted by Delane For the purpose of that craft, both cutaways are a waste of time and take away useful buoyancy. Originally Posted by Mr Efficiency The cutaway idea is sound enough, but not the way it was executed. Location: Eustis, FL Both transition types suck at the speeds you'll be traveling at. For example; if you took the tapered section and started this taper several feet forward of it's current position, you might see this very modest improvement.
You compromise a lot in any way you look, wrt flotation, speed, hull interior, comsumption etc.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: New Jersy Where can I find some hull photographs or manufacturers that make very good hull designs ?
Assuming a boat about 20' & V8 The attached perspective drawing shows you what I did on the Cherubini 20 bottom for the jet drive. I have used a similar bottom for the Saetta 20, which originally had an inboard drive, and I have just reshaped the hull for a jet drive using a Hamilton jet. Boat should not bow hook or become airborne unless I am stupid or showing off like a nut in a 21' X 4' boat. From the perspective view and the side (below) it looks like you have effectively taken a chunk out of the bottom to produce a flat for the jet intake.
When we built the hull molds for this design, the hull plug was carved out of foam at DLBA Robotics in Virginia, and it had the full V, not cut away. Location: New Zealand Had you considered the merits of running the flat area (which we refer to as the 'delta', not sure of the origins but it could be due to the triangular shape) from the transom to just forrard of amidships? Yes, in fact, I did go through a rendition of the hull lines with a flat on the bottom exactly as Mat-C describes, not inclined like Speedboat's photo, and got all the way through general arrangement drawings. If I had to do it over again to provide a jet design in a speedboat, I would do it the same way with the bottom shape that I have developed, which I have used on a number of boat designs--the boats trim out and handle very well.
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Location: australia looking for houseboat plans - catamaran hull or pontoon Hi this is my first post so i hope i am in the right place, I am looking for plans to build my own house boat using fiberglass pontoons or a cat style hull and are looking for plans i can buy i am new to boat building so any advice is welcome. Location: Holland Houseboat hull material In holland, where we have a lot of experiece building house boats, almost all new houseboats are build on a prefabricated concrete pontoon without a deck. Building a fibreglass hull this size is expencive in materials, as it is going to be a house is suspect you do not want your hull to be to thin.
Concrete needs no maintenance and is cheap so adding some extra material to make it very strong is no problem.
If you plan to put an engine in your houseboat and move it occasionally this may not be the best way to go. Location: australia Hi how do they make the concrete pontoons can you give me an idea how this is done any will it hold together at 5-10 knotts as i thought it mightstart to wear away the frount of the pontoons. Location: Holland Concrete (ferrocement) construction From your last post and the 5-10 knotts you mention there i conclude you do not want a static houseboat. If you have limited funds i would concider finding some large diameter steel tubes and use these as catamaran hulls. I would also concider moring a static houseboat on a nice spot and have a nice cabin cruiser to explore the surroundings. If you tell something more about what you want i will be happy to continue thinking with you. Have some suggestions for more conventional boat types and available plans useable for a houseboat but will have to dig them out.
Location: Washington In the US almost all houseboats are built within a 100 mile radius of Lake Cumberland in Tennessee. Location: Washington Also Glen-L has housboat palns you might want to look at. Location: australia Hi could you send my the web site that this came from so as i can study it and even contact them.

About my experience, i worked as a mechanical engineer for 15 years with 7 years experience as industrial design engineer to make products look better. I did not design a houseboat before but have two naval architects living nearby who can assist me if neccecary. Since you are not very experieced yet building grp structures this could also be a good way to avoid the potential problem of having to schred a complete hull when something goes wrong with the laminate.
Originally Posted by magjulmar Hi could you send my the web site that this came from so as i can study it and even contact them. For any design or engineering questions you can contact me anyway, we did parts of engineering for this house boat. Boston Previous Member   which is why I posted lines of the Downeast hull form, so folks could get a clear image of the type of hull commonly associated with a lobster boat.
If your using a hull form of a traditional lobster boat people just might refer to is as such, specially if the top sides and sheer also resemble the layout. Location: Flattop Islands Once again Boston you have posted a question that could be addressed by writing 3-4 books. From Massachusetts to Nova Scotia there are hundreds of versions of Downeast Lobster Boat hulls, some good , some bad, some indifferent. Understand that these boats are built to make money, everything else is just gravy, if they don't make money they are put out to pasture.
Originally Posted by Tad Once again Boston you have posted a question that could be addressed by writing 3-4 books. A stretched version of White Pine will produce a very easily driven hull, if the weight is kept in check. I would imagine that often the boats are loaded down with pots only a few times a year, at least the inshore boats, the pots spending most of the time in the water.
I?m in the process of setting myself up for retirement and part of the plan is to upgrade my boat.
I would like to be able to go across to Tasmania (120 - 450 nm depending on landfall chosen) or coastal hop up to the Great Barrier Reef and on to Darwin (longest leg I'd do around 450 nm).
I do like the looks of White Pine but think it may be a little slow (her max is listed as 15 knots and I'd like to have some in reserve).
The production boats available in Australia do not ?tick all my boxes? so I am seriously looking at building here (importing is not very attractive at current exchange rates) and we have 3-4 competent wooden boat builders where I live so this seems like my best option.
If she's kept simple (light) you could expect 14 knots with about 120 HP at the prop and 12 knots with 73 HP. I got some feed back on onother forum that the down east hull is stable to a degree but in heavier seas its stability drops off fast.
I like the way the beam narrows toward the stern and I also like the ?raised? floor and kitchen up in the main cabin area.
The head could be a fraction bigger so the ?shower? has a bit more room (I?d use this for hanging wet gear as well).
Finally, last night I became aware of some select grade Alaskan Yellow Cedar planks (6? x 1? & 10? x 1?) that are available in near me, so I am thinking that this would be a good timber for planking the boat as I?m told it is light, strong and easy to work. She has a round bilge clinker planked marine plywood hull with an open wheelhouse and a lower cabin with moderate flare forward and good size cockpit deck, strongly raked stem, transom stern and hinged timber slatted marlin platform.
There is a very long way between these educated guesses and the real life finished boat, but the expectations are roughly in the range of possible. The largest single weight in this boat will be the fuel load, so that capacity needs to be considered carefully.
Location: Flattop Islands I'm also very jealous of the Yanmar engines available in Australia.
A 60' hull that displaces 53,400 pounds will require 44 Hp at the prop for 9 knots in flat water, no bearing looses, alternator drag, no current, wind, waves, no bottom growth, no appendages, etc. Originally Posted by Tad I'm also very jealous of the Yanmar engines available in Australia. The top pic looks like it might be intended to plane - but without more info as Mr E said, hard to make a good guess.
I'd be more concerned about strong headwinds, which should see you doing 2 knots backwards ! Minimum bottom angle ~10 deg helps in keeping intake free from bubbles generated at spray-root forward. Jetsprint boats run a transom deadrise angle up around 24*, I've used 19* extremely successfully with a warped bottom.
The same gusset blocks will be used on both sides of anything holding the marine plywood skins on. The flat area forrard becomes quite narrow so as to minimise the effect of 'slamming' etc that you suggest. I suppose I always assumed it would be done as a horizontal version of what speedboats has pictured, as in the pic below. While the spotlight is on Sporting Kansas City, it wouldn’t be shining as brightly without the work of the members of the Power Partners. The Power Partners represents an innovative partnership between the National Electrical Contractors Association and the International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers. I have just bought a glass craft chopper gun and a plural system gel coat gun and intend on spending about 1 year learning and experimenting with these before i attempt to build my house boat.i have been told you should not use fiberglass on a house boat due to osmosis is this true and can it be avoided. When you want to move your house you can wait for a calm day and use the cabin cruiser as a tug, it won't make 10 knots but but patience will bring you a long way. Above 2:1 ratio of resin to glass will lead to fracturing of the structural layers which wil lend itself to mosture absobsion and finally osmosis.

There rest of the hulls can be formed from similar shaped segments from lets say 10 feet long.
The epoxy.construction is light and strong, you'll have no osmosis plus it is easy to build yourself. No way they would be so popular among the fishermen if they were not well suited to it; not just the bay, but the open New England waters as well. I have recently joined the Royal Victorian Motor Yacht Club and this has given me the opportunity to look at a wide variety of boats and narrow down what I would like?.. I have looked at a locally built boat, a Cheviot 32, and it is lovely but just a bit to small for me, plus access to the bow is more difficult than I would like. Do you have any suggestions on how this design could be ?improved? to achieve (or exceed) these sort of targets while still meeting what I am after?
The lower cabin has a kitchenette, a separate toilet with wash basin and two bench seats that have been set up to convert to a basic double berth. Tunnel Boats, vee hulls, tunnel hull design, tunnel boat plans, racing boat plans, vee pad boats, tunnel hulls, boat racing plans, race boat plans, bass boats, F1.
I don't think the loss of bouyancy is an issue, the thing is clearly not going to plane with the kind of installed power it has.
Considering what this vessel is, there's very little you can do to improve over all efficiency. I would have though it would create a bit of turbulence in front of the jet, as well as a possible area of 'negative pressure'. Although it does rotate the jet giving a 'trim up' effect, depending on the pump you use they have a 5* down angle on them anyway (to allow sump clearance for the motor to the bottom of the hull. That would give a flat 'pad' for the boat to ride on - quite common in many faster boats I believe - but avoid any potential turbulence problems. Most were outboards, though some were also fitted with sterndrives and I think even a few jets. Its jurisdictional area includes contiguous counties in Kansas City including Johnson, Leavenworth, Linn, Miami and Wyandotte counties in Kansas, as well as Bates, Benton, Carroll, Cass, Clay, Lafayette, Morgan, Pettis, Platte, Ray and Saline counties in Missouri. When the hull segments are attached to each other they form independent flotation devices, the walls of the sections form bulkheads. Brant rock ( well off the south shore ) has got so many buoys floating around it you could walk across em and its out in the middle of nowhere, definitely not protected water and we fixed plenty of boats that worked there. Even if you elected to carve up the bottom aft half of each pontoon and reshape them to a more efficient form, there's so much windage, you'll not see much more then a fraction of a knot improvement. Our partnership represents the highest in quality electrical work with the highest return on investment to owners, developers, contractors, municipalities and others.ALUMINIUM BOAT HULLFinest load rib marketplace polar had boats, boat design persons, i. All-aluminium aluminum this aluminium advice been hand-craft instructions a natal stacer aluminium hull any hull. It would have been better to start rising, preferably in a smooth arc, from somewhat further forward. There looks to be a penalty in hull drag, as well as having your prop working in water being dragged along by the boat, which is not ideal at all.
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