For fitting the deck supports, clamp an offcut of box section or similar along the inside of the chassis rails under the crossmembers to help level the supports.
In many years of boating, I have never heard of or seen anyone having undertaken the modification of an outboard engine electrical under-cowling wiring to interconnect isolators, switches, and other external circuit components.
Hi Matto and Symon, the original location for the Circuit breaker is preferred especially considering that the SC80, in a short circuit event is likely to go open circuit as quick as the CB because of the voltage drop.Add to this the fact that while under the bonnet, most cabling is safe and some very high current carrying cable actually has no protection at all. Hey MattoGreat post, my eyes went all fuzzy reading it, but I have printed it off and filed it for when I want to install a second battery into my new Pathy.Cheers for the good work. Do a search and see if you can find his thread on the Pradopoint forums.Or if he is kind enough he might post the link. All the information provided is believed to be accurate and representative of techniques and practices in common use in the marine applications described.
When welding the deck support angles, it is not necessary to fully weld them to the chassis rails, stitch welding is sufficient.
I doubt that typical owners, do-it-yourself-er, or factory trained mechanics would be comfortable working on such a modified engine.
We want to run a 12V compressor fridge, as well as some LED camp lights, and maybe other misc things down the track (like a 12v GLIND shower, for instance). Personally, I'm going for a couple of light circuits, a couple of general power points, and a fridge circuit. You know me - there's not enough forum space in the world once I get on a roll!  Sunny FNQ is just that - sunny! Our longer-term plan is still to get a camper trailer, but even when we do, the fridge will still live in the car.
That's very interesting about your battery test - it gives me confidence that this configuration will work.
A little too much I'm afraid - all our lawn is dead, and most of the plants are following the grass.
Never wear a ring or metal jewelry when working with high-current sources like storage batteries. The camper trailer will have it's own battery (for LED lighting, water pump, etc), and will be charged from the car. Assuming you should only use ~50% of a battery's capacity (so it seems), a 100Ah battery will give me ~50Ah of usable power.
My original thought was to be able to link the batteries and simply float a bit of the charge from the AUX into the MAIN, then isolate the MAIN and start the car off it. There is plently of steel in the body of the vehicle to give you a good return path back to the battery. That should be enough to run a 12V fridge for 2-3 days without needing to run the car.How big is your fridge? But then you the risk of starting with one very dead and one not-so-dead, and ending up with both at an equal, but still-too-low-to-start level.

I really wanted blade fuses in my panel, but had to go with the old-style cylindrical fuses.
What I really wanted was to have a switch for each circuit so I could turn them on and off at the switch panel. That weekend in Cooktown was the last time we have been able to score a free weekend to get away.
Excuse my very ordinary paint skills.The first thing that struck me about that drawing is the circuit breaker is on the wrong side of the SC80 unit. I know, especially with the cig lighter sockets, that I could just unplug whatever was in there to turn it off, but wanted to reduce wear and tear on the sockets. So I've been consoling myself by working on the car and dreaming of far away places.Where abouts are you these days? To do this, I'll be fabricating some sort of mount to hold the battery up under the car, whilst protecting it from from being squished if the back of the car drops onto something offroad. Will the specified 6B&S cable be sufficient for the main run between the two batteries? I pinched them from there because I found them very clearly laid out and easy to understand, so well done to yourself or whoever initially came up with them! But I also wanted good control over each circuit.If you were to take those panels as they are, and put LED-lit rocker switches next to each of them, that would be my ideal outcome.
Make sure you shoot us a hoy if you're ever back in this neck of the woods!Thanks!Matto Over in Perth at the moment mate.
It will have some sort of stone guard in front and underneath to prevent it being destroyed, but other than that will be relatively open and easy to inspect and clean. I'm happy to sacrifice the bit of power required to keep one LED lit to show me at a glance that my fridge is on.
I spent yesterday afternoon reading through your Wiring 101 at the top of this section - very comprehensive!The fridge is currently non-existant, but is probably going to be one of the new ARB 47L jobbies.
The only other suggestion I would make is to incorporate a switch (and this might be easier said than done) that can switch your meters between the MAIN and the AUX batteries, so from the same panel you can monitor the state of both batteries. So a similar size to yours, and probably around the same consumption figures (they all seem to be within spitting range of each other these days).
Still, it's the biggest we can cram under the car, so we will just have to live with the lower capacity. Down the line with the trailer, we can always set up some additional batteries on it and link them to the car for extra run time.
There is plently of steel in the body of the vehicle to give you a good return path back to the battery.Excellent. Thanks for the heads-up though!As for the CB location - I was working off the original diagrams that had it on that side, and I didn't even think of it. Nothing really exciting there, it'll just be something from the Narva catalogue to make any front wiring user friendly.

I'm using ground returns for all the accessories - I assume there's no problem with that? You'll see in the updated diagram below that the marine switch bypasses the CB and the SC80 unit. My guess is that, when you're linking the batteries you are doing so because the MAIN is dead, and the power will be coming from the AUX.
After going through half a dozen different designs, I've settled on the following as the simplest, most efficient way of doing what I need to do. We do a lot of our trips by ourselves, where we can't just get another vehicle to jump us.
And with the AUX battery hidden up underneath the car, it would be very difficult, if not impossible, to get a set of jumper leads to connect the two as an emergency measure.
That's probably too difficult and too expensive for me to route from the front all the way to the back. The thing that plays on my mind is that the RedArc controller has a button on it to link both batteries for the express purpose of starting your vehicle from the second battery. I can't imagine many RedArc users running massively thick cable just for the off chance that they might need to start off the AUX one day.
This is because of the way the AUX battery will be mounted up under the car, the easiest way to hook it up will be to sit it on the ground, connect it into the wiring, then bolt it up under the car. Battery will have the breaker mounted on the battery-side of the anderson plug - preferably in one of those integrated battery-terminals-with-fuse style connectors. The front is just for convenience more than any current need for one - it's easy enough to do, so I may as well do it whilst setting the system up.
Also, it will allow me to plug my baby CTek charger into it when it's sitting in the garage to ensure that the AUX is topped right up between trips.
This will sit in the back of the cargo area, and be responsible for pretty much all the accessories running off the AUX, inc the fridge.
There's a trim panel that clips in there, so through the week that can stay in place and keep the switch panel safe from harm. I figure it's an easy and cheap way to monitor both batteries without needing to clutter things up with a second meter. I imagine I'll have the cig lighter sockets to run plug in lights and misc things that other people might have that need to be charged. Which leaves me 1 x powerpole connector free for something else, and 2 x switches free for internal switching. For example, a switch to turn on an external waterproof plug up on the roofrack to use an external camping light, is one plan.

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