Wiring a boat trailer is something that many boaters find themselves needing to do sooner or later. I was doing a pre-season inspection of my trailer, which was only 2 years old at the time, and I noticed the ground wire on the trailer is screwed to galvanized metal, and the screw is not tight.
The standard four prong connector to connect the trailer to the tow vehicle is perfect for a simple trailer light system.Notice the four prong connector on my boat trailer has 5 wires coming out the bottom. Chux has free shipping in the continental US on almost everything over $50 with no junk fees like the other guys!
If for no other reason than not getting stopped by the cops, you must have working lights on your trailer just like you do on your tow vehicle. The wiring connector for most trailers has between 4 and 7 posts or blades, depending on how it’s equipped, to control basic lighting and brake functions.
If you stick to this format your trailer will be compatible with most trailers and tow vehicles out there. Once your trailer’s wiring is good to go the next thing to think about is the connection to the tow vehicle. If your trailer is equipped with electric brakes you should use the 7-way RV blade connector even if you don’t have back-up lights or auxiliary power. If you’re equipping an older vehicle for towing most of the wiring you need is right there in the taillights. You will most likely have to remove one taillight to gain access to the wiring and the color codes on the vehicle will probably be different than the trailer plug. Remember to carefully tag and label each wire so you can keep track of what you’re doing and use a good quality tap connector like these to make those splices. We here at Chux Trux are ready and waiting to help you with any of your towing questions or problems.
My problem now is how to convert the trailer hitch wiring harness and split the turn and stop lights.
Location: In the bothy, 7 chains down the line from Dodman's Lane level crossing, in the nation formerly known as Great Britain.
Send a PM to Andy Germany, who has advised on this course of action to another reader recently. My car (the VW Tiguan) has not been modified, but as far as I can see the US version is identical to the European with separate red stop lights and yellow blinkers. A simple way to do this is to pick off the relative wires in the back of the car, via a fuse each time and feed them to a 7 pin socket.
The problem here is that if the stop light and one turn light are on at the same time, the result will be stop lights and the opposite turn light active.
I was able to buy a trailer light convertor such a you describe from my local auto supply for about $35.
However, assuming the pins you have given us are correct for your trailer then the simplest way to solve it is as Andy says except, to avoid the lamp-check module in the car showing a fault with two lamps in parallel you power the trailer lamps via vehicle type relays. The electric brake could be connected via the spare pin 7 but be careful, I have never seen electric brakes used in europe, You should check with your transport authorities as to their legality. I know it would not be possible to have a trailer with electric brakes registered in Norway. Does your trailer have "over run" mechanical brakes (I personally have never seen Hydraulic brakes on a trailer) or no brakes at all?
Yes, I have the proper tools (including a multimeter) and will be able to complete the job if given a wiring diagram, but as I indicated I may ask a garage to do the job for me if it implies extensive work. Remember to remove Battery + when working AFTER you have identified both sidelights, brake lights, fog light, both indicators and a good ground. Almost every time ive had to repair someones rv lighting, it is due to someone in the past making connections with just cheap plastic crimp fittings, and then not using heat shrink or liquid tape to seal the connection.
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It may be to just connect the trailer lights on your vehicle, or you may find yourself rewiring the whole trailer with new LED boat trailer lights and a new wire harness.I have had light issues on an old trailer and to be honest it was quicker and way less hassle just to pull out the old wiring and lights and start again with a fresh wire harness and new lights. A sure fire source of light problems!Make sure the ground wire on the trailer is attached to bare metal, not to painted or galvanized metal. When you buy from Chux, we’ll beat our biggest competitors advertised prices, even up to 1 year after you bought it from us! And for your safety, and the safety of the other vehicles on the road, all of those lights should work properly or you shouldn’t tow, even for a short trip across town.
But if you built your own trailer or you bought a used one that has lights missing or broken, any good trailer or RV dealer will have all of the parts and kits you need to get that trailer on the road safe and legal. Smaller trailers use a four wire flat plug that controls taillights, brake lights, and turn signals. If you’re building a trailer you can buy a complete wiring kit for it and that will be the easiest and quickest way to get your trailer wired. Almost all trucks, vans, and SUVs built since the 1990’s have factory installed wiring and plugs for lighting and, in some cases, even a connector in the cab for a trailer brake controller. If you don’t have electric trailer brakes you should be okay with just the flat four-way connector.
You can call us any time or stop in at any of our three Kansas City area stores and speak to our expertly trained staff. An alternative would also be to go to a garage and have them do the installation (not to the local VW dealership).
It is a small device that wired directly into the car rear light harness and the outputs go to the trailer.
Remember, if you have an accident and your vehicle is not legal your insurance may not cover you. When I used the trailer in the US I simply had to use an adapter which only connected 4 of the 7 pins to a flat four pin connector at the trailer. On the right side Nothing on the left side the center of the light had very small hard to see from 2 feet away flashing.
You can either replace the wire, which could be a lot, I've seen the corrosion travel a many feet from the bad connection.
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Yes kiddies, this time we’re going to talk all about trailer wiring and electrical stuff. Larger trailers will have a connector with 5, 6, and 7 wires to control backup lights, electric trailer brake control, and auxiliary power.
However, if you have a vehicle that is not factory equipped for towing you will need to change more than just lighting before towing a trailer that is large enough to have electric brakes. To have the trailer registered I had to equip it with European standard tail lights with separate running lights, turn lights and stop lights. The trailer is not wired for an electric trailer brake, so that should free up a wire in your VW. I have shown four relays but actually you do not need the tail lights relay as your present wiring runs these same lights.
I have also thought of using this for the stop lights, but don't know how the electric system of the car will react.
So did a quick fix there and my Driverside worked 100% and passenger side now has the mini middle bulb flashing hard to see. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. Once a return is received and inspected and has no marks we will refund the purchase price.
Many light assemblies use the mounting bolts as their ground connection, so clean the metal surface around the mounting bolt holes down to bare metal.
I know some of you will go running screaming from the room at the mere mention of the word electrical, but trust us it really isn’t all that hard. If you can find the VW trailer brake wire in the front of the car, disconnect it from whatever was sending a signal to it. Your present system probably checks for failed lamps in the trailer, that feature will be lost of course.
This caused no trouble with the car electric so I assume it will not be a problem to just not connect the electric break pin. Item must be returned in new condition, as received with all accompanied accessories and literature. I disconnect battery for 1 hour and the code goes away for a few days then returns randomly.
BUT however the connecter was left exposed on the trailer all winter frozen into the ground.
So, today I trie cutting the split ground on my jeep and discovered that the wire was really black. Poor ground connection to the trailer frame is a common problem with lights that don't work.Below is a simple wire diagram for a standard four wire light harness.
They are available at marine hardware stores and are a crimp connector with a waterproofing adhesive inside and an integral heat shrink cover to seal the connection. We have multiple stores and an online presence that almost no other online retailer can claim. Then you can use that wire to send the new brake light signal to the trailer plug at the back of the car.
The white wire (ground) on the following boat trailer wiring diagram is drawn in grey so that you can see it against the white background. I would recommend getting the brake light adaptor and then wiring it and the other circuits that you need into a 7 pin recepatcle yourself.
One to control the boat trailer brakes, and one auxiliary power to charge the battery that you will need to have on the trailer so the brakes can be energized should the trailer come unhitched from the tow vehicle.Obviously you will need a six prong connector to connect the trailer to the tow vehicle in this situation.
I'm sure that you will be able to figure out how to add the other 2 circuits to a common 7 pin receptacle once you see the thing.

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