How to Build a Row-Sailing Boat Plans How to Build a Row-Sailing Boat PlansPlans how to build your own row-sailing boat.Equipped with this inexpensive portable sail rig any rowboat becomes a sailboat.
Not sure if I am in the right section but being plywood and glass I guess that is more composite than wood right? I have never used fiberglass before, or micro balloons or epoxy and in general just went at it to have a go. We removed the screws and power planed it to approximate the foil shape and finished the shaping it with my new electrical orbital sander.
We then coated the whole lot in glass and epoxy in a very unprofessional manner (many beers had been consumed by this stage). Location: the Netherlands too much resin, use a squeegee, and maybe some peelply to, could save you some sanding.
Maybe I next time I can do what I do for a RC plane wing and draw the airfoil on both ends then shave it to that profile on the ends, and from there I can make parallels down the whole rudder? Location: Eustis, FL On small, light weight boats, a plywood rudder is acceptable, as the loads are fairly light, but once you get over 18', the loads increase enough to make plywood a less desirable rudder material. Location: Eustis, FL 27 mm is a thin blade for your boat, unless you plan on racing and looking to reduce drag as much as possible. The break in the picture looks just like what a break from a rolling shear failure looks like. The setup can be tedious for these router jigs, but you end up with precise sectional shapes and more importantly symmetrical foils.


Location: Brisbane The bade is over 32mm thick in total for most of the span. I lengthened the rudder to the same length as my Binks 25 (which is the same length but lighter). If it snaps I now know how to make a stronger version with strip planking But I really don't want it snapping and causing a dangerous situation.
Sounds like you really tried to make your rudder as good as possible with all those foil changes.
Location: Eustis, FL This rudder blade (shown above) was for one of my designs. If you where experiencing a lot of helm deflection with the short rudder, you may have other issues then rudder length. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
A small boat having a beam of 4 ft., the length of the thwart may be varied to suit the boat at hand. I drilled a larger hole than required for the pivot pin and filled that with micro spheres so that when the whole is re drilled no wood is exposed to keep water out. You may have had some internal fiber failures, but the blade was still whole and the drive way was the straw that broke it's back. I would have had to access the boat a little before making this change, like what condition are the sails, which is a common cause of excessive helm deflection (weather helm).


These pictures where taken as I switched foil templates, which was routed across the blade.
Because the blade changed shaped pretty dramatically along it's length I elected to make several templates and adjust the foil type along the length. Both the centerboard and rudder received this treatment and I had an opportunity to sail it against another of the same design, shortly after launching.
The blade was also painted, but the tiller was a lovely vertical lamination (instead of the typical horizontal) of mahogany and white fir. The top portion of the blade was a surface piercing shape, the middle portions transitioned from 0012 to 0016 and the end of the blade was a 63 series section.
This is also a common problem, usually because the boat has become a storage box and gained a considerable amount of weight, not unusually under the cockpit out of sight and mind until it affects trim. Instead of tapering the outside of tiller, I tapered the fir portions of the laminate which made it especially interesting to look at. I made both boats (well made one, bare hulled the other) and the sails came from the same supplier.



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