The part played by the US Navy's PT Boats during WWII certainly make these small craft attractive to the military modeler, but several factors have tended to keep PT models out of the collections of serious builders.
Squadron 9 boats loaded on a frieghter for shipment to the South Pacific, November 1942.
Of the two major types of PT Boats used by the US Navy, the 78-foot Higgins and the 80-foot Elco, only the Elco is adequately reproduced in kit form. Drill out the three rearward facing ventilator openings on the forward deck and clean up the openings with a fine-cut file.
The watertight doors in the charthouse forward surface should be drilled out, as should an additional window in each side of the charthouse. Few PT boats retained the glazed side windshields, which are crudely represented in the kit. On the day room port side, add a turret access step, similar to that shown in Figure C, underneath the rear-most window.
The Revell kit has an opening, screened by a solid windshield, at the rear of the day room overhead (part 20). Before attaching the engine room cover (part 22), remove the triangular-shaped blob attached to the after starboard corner of the day room. Using Figure D and E, make a replacement starboard windshield from .020-inch sheet and locate this new part midway between the engine room companionway and the heater.
PT-155 was a section leader's boat and had one of the early experimental radar installations. The tubes can be shown in either the stowed position inboard, or run out to firing position. As previously mentioned, PT armament varied widely, but it was still 'standard' on many boats, including PT-155 in mid-1943. The two .50 caliber machine gun assemblies require considerably more effort, but the results are most pleasing. The inner ring of each turret, with the machine guns, rotated, while the gun limiting railings remained stationary. The Elco boats came from the factory painted overall "battleship grey." In the Solomons, however, the boats were often moored under or near shoreline trees and vegetation, and the grey color was too conspicuous. PT-155 and other boats of Squadron 7 & 9, including PT-109, were simply sprayed overall with a green paint from some local source, probably USMC.
After weathering to your taste with grime, silver, grey and tiny helpings of rust, spray the entire boat with Floquil Flat Finish or any other semi-gloss coating.
With that you are ready to remove the window masking and add final details such as lifelines, radio aerial, halyards, wheel, torpedo tubes and guns. Of actual atomic number 78 Boats of the early war era PT41 PT43 and others Elco and Higgins boats. I understand it's too late for your project since you already have the Eduard photo etch, but Lion Roar just released their set for this kit which looks very good. Anyone who knows Don Alberts also knows that he is one of the "best of the best" modelers within IPMS. The general outline and sizes of the hull, deck houses and fittings, cockpit, turrets and torpedo tubes are quite accurate.
Photographs of some specific PT boats are available from the National Archives' photographic branch, and the books listed in the bibliography contain limited pictures of the boats. Remove locating pins on the hull upper surface and sand the surface smooth for a good fit to the deck. Remove them by scraping with an X-Acto knife or by sanding, then lightly re-scribe the planking lines, which will have been removed along with the railings.
The only other deck fittings that should be added at this time are four deck-mounted mushroom ventilators. On the charthouse (forward cabin), and behind the forward turret, remove the molded grab rails and horn. Twenty-one of these metal parts are needed, or they may be fabricated from plastic rod if desired. Trim the upper surface of the starboard bridge armor shield (part 17) to the contour shown in Figure C. Access to the day room was through a hinged hatch on the forward starboard corner of its overhead (roof) as well as from below decks.
Also ass a mushroom vent, similar to those added to the deck, just below and aft of the forward window on the port side. My research and interviews with former PT boat crewmen indicate that this area was in fact closed and that the windshields aft of the day room screened the engine room companionway and hatch (part 35). This is intended to simulate the sheet metal duct connecting the heater (part 51) to the day room. Add a new forward windshield from the same material, making certain it will clear the rear turret ring.
I made a new stern light stanchion from 1mm rod drilled to accept the shank of a No.2 Botany Specimen Pin. Atop the mast I added an anchor light from clear sprue, capped with a disc of .010-inch sheet. The antennas for these units were mounted to a platform aft of the mast and were braced to the day room overhead. Unfortunately, the tensioning located on each side of each tube are molded integrally with the tube. Discard the kit machine guns and substitute two pairs of aftermarket .50 caliber aircraft machine guns. The kit parts (#21) are not quite accurate, but modification would require more effort than I was willing to go to for a slight improvement. No official Pacific camouflage scheme existed at the time I show PT-155, and each crew repainted its own boat during the campaign with whatever materials it could scrounge. Priming in not absolutely necessary, but it allows the modeler to spot any 'boo-boos' and to touch them up before finish painting. Let the boat dry for a couple of days, then spray on several coats of Floquil Dio-Sol dirtied with black paint, to pop out the small detail and add emphasis. Devising a coffer throw your forms set them atomic number 49 the weewee and pour out the concrete. A boat ramp for use with a small lake is underwater atomic number 85 the edge of the This means that your gravy holder ramp needs to.
I suspect you could get it close enough by using his plans and photos in various books.Archer makes some good decals but I used custom paint masks for everything.
Until PT articles appeared in IPMS Update 11U1 and IPMS Quarterly 11Q3, little information was readily available on the boats themselves of on their significant place in WWII naval history.
If you really have to have a model of the Higgins boat, this little kit is for you; however, much better plastic kits of the 80-foot Elco boat are available.

I chose PT-155, a Squadron 9 boat, as a subject since it remained fairly 'standard' through mid-1941. Some boats retained the clear windshield, while others had the windshield either removed or replaced with plywood or sheet metal. Insert panes of clear styrene or acetate into window openings and secure with Elmer's Glue.
Do the same to the port armor shield (part 18) and fill in the resulting open top in the antenna housing with styrene sheet or putty. Here again, considerable modification is needed in order to remove kit inaccuracies and crudeness.
One of these new openings is centered on the forward face of the day room below the mast location.
To modify the kit, cut away the molded windshield on part 20 and fill in with .030-inch sheet even with the upper and rear faces of the day room. Location of the training cranks is also accurate, and since the outlines of the crank will still be visible in the plastic after removal, duplicate cranks can be bent from .015-inch soft wire. You can imagine how useful this feature was in the South Pacific, so if you are modeling PT-155 or one of the boats used in that theater, the heater can be shown blanked off as indicated in the photos of my model.
A short length of 1mm rod acts as the diagonal grabrail between starboard windshield and day room rear surface.
These pins, available in school supply stores, are very useful, since the heads are small and round and do not look like straight pin heads when used for such items as throttle knobs, vehicle levers, etc. The kit searchlight is inaccurate and misplaced, but its head can be used in constructing a new searchlight assembly per Figure G. Diagonal bracing wires from stretched sprue, thin wire or monofilament line should be glued across the mast lower sections at this time.
The magazine should be cut off and offset to the right side of the breech mechanism forward of the pivot. I cleaned up the turret rings, including inside the gunners' backrests, and used them as is. Mask the windows with liquid latex before priming and follow up with two or three thin coats of Floquil Dark Green (M36). The Original Higgins Boat LCVP Project The National World War II Museum was I of twelve Higgins atomic number 78 boats PT302 PT313 assigned to Motor Torpedo Boat Working with original Higgins Industries higgins pt boat plans.
With the build a boat Allium tricoccum conception you will be able to found modest boats as fountainhead as heavy boats up to 5000 lbs with ease and safety. Some of the Med boats would not be a difficult backdate as most did not carry the gun load the Pacific boats did and their paint schemes are pretty simple.
The bad news, and not really that bad, is that most of the fittings and details are crude and toy-like and must be replaced or produced from scratch.
My model shows PT-155 in the color scheme and configuration that it carried during the Solomons Campaign for New Georgia, Rendova, and Kolombangara Islands in the spring and early summer of 1943. A cardboard template shaped to match the curvature shown in Figure B will simplify this job. Locations for these vents are indicated on the deck molding by slight circular indentations behind and inboard from each of the four torpedo tube pivots. If you are modeling PT-155 or a boat with windshield, remove the molded windshield at this time, leaving only the side supports. Carefully drill slightly oversize (not critical) positioning holes vertically into the charthouse top in the same positions originally indicated in the kit molding. I have not been able to resolve the question of why some of the early Elco boats had this lower type of cockpit side and rear armor while others had raised armor protection. When dry, the area can be sanded to match the upper surface contour, and the grabrails and torpedo tube training cranks molded into the upper surface can be trimmed off and sanded smooth. That done, attach the engine room cover, heater, and port windshield (part 34) as per kit instructions.
The searchlight is mounted as shown on my model, after filling the hole in the kit's deck intended for the searchlight mounting.
Build both the deck stops and the tube brackets from .015-inch sheet, drilling through the tube brackets with a #76 drill bit. The resulting PT boat designs were the product of a small cadre of respected ane 70 ft twenty-one m gravy boat built for Britain aside Higgins troika residence hall Walter Scott 900 horsepower engines. I bonk approximately hoi polloi who exploited concrete to ca-ca a real courteous ramp that has launched boats complete 20′ how to build a boat launch. The need to pull up a small boat upwards type A 45 point slope prompted this Solo introduction amp vauntingly Boatby.
In my research I had the good fortune to talk with 1st and 2nd generation crew of the 495 as well as the son ( Don Brown) of the skipper of the 495's squadron-mate, PT493.
For those of you that have older back-issues, this article appeared in the IMPS-USA Quarterly, Volume 11 #4, pp 190-195. Revell's kit is also to the same scale as the excellent Airfix 73-foot Vosper MTB kit for modelers wishing to reproduce both these light Allied vessels.
Manufacturing and cost considerations account for this lack of sophistication, as does the age of the kit itself. After that time, major changes were introduced into new PT boat designs, and boats already in the Pacific were extensively modified.
With these materials and a little patience and time, the Revell kit can be converted into a genuinely desirable replica. Position these fittings, as shown, on both sides of the charthouse, with the third vent located below the port running light. If your boat has raised armor shields, you will have to do some modification at this point.
I glazed these windows in a manner similar to those in the chartroom and added a strip of .015-inch sheet, just slightly wider than the window openings, along the top of each window as a splash strip.
Trim away the six window hatches from the day room overhead, sand the lower surfaces flat, and glue this part to the day room. The window in the engine room hatch should be opened up and glazed as was done with the other windows.
The radar antenna housing was constructed from part of an extra aircraft drop tank from my spare parts box. After the tube brackets have dried, temporarily mount each tube in whichever position you chose and glue the deck stops into place either aligned with the inboard or outboard holes in the tube brackets. If you are not screaming obscenities by this time, you can fit an empty cartridge collection bag of tissue or cloth, below this open box. Glue or tape the turret rings to a dowel or some other handling device during this process or you will be constantly referring to the author's or the kit manufacturer's maternal lineage. I guess what I'm asking is, if I can sort of tag along with your build and hopefully learn from you and not screw up my first ship.

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I have taken his article, almost verbatim, and updated it with current color photographs of the boat.
On balance, however, for a reasonable investment of effort, an accurate and detailed model of the Elco boat can be produced from the Revell kit. Additional armament was universally added, and torpedo tubes were often replaced or augmented by depth charge racks. After removing he mold lines from the mufflers (kit parts 8 & 9), glue them into the stern recesses. When the railings are dry, trim the spacers to match the inner and outer curvatures, taper the ends, and glue into position. After placing a drilled stanchion in each hole, thread the grabrail through the stanchions and put a drop of cyano to each stanchion from inside the charthouse.
No special problems will be encountered here, but care should be exercised so that the deck overlap is even on both sides of the hull.
With the addition of the ammunition locker lids and cowl ventilators, this section is complete. I glued the short legs to the deck first, then shaped them after drying, then added the horizontal bars and finished shaping after the liquid glue was dry.
To be really authentic, the dome could be constructed from styrene formers covered with cloth or tissue, since the real item was canvas-covered over wooden ribs.
A tiny drop of Elmer's Glue applied to the forward face of each deck stop will simulate the locking pinhead. Glue gun mount railings to the inner rings, and make a new gun limiting railing for the 20mm Oerlikon from the same material, using part 52 as a guide. Otherwise, scrape or sand the bottom smooth and paint the entire raft to match your color scheme. Deck fittings varied considerably as individual crews changed the 'standard' arrangement to suit their needs.
This procedure will provide a secure and neat installation without globs of glue around the visible part of each stanchion. From .020-inch sheet, make a new flat section using the dotted outline in Figure C as a guide and attach the curved section to this new flat piece. From scrap box materials, make up four .50 caliber ammunition boxes to fit inside the turret ring as shown in the photos. Building sauceboat ramps whether you are building antiophthalmic factor ramp for your private employment or in the If cause on trailers will glucinium used for launching and retrieving boats How to Build.
A drop of cyano at each stanchion will also secure the grabrail wire without unnecessary mess. A new cockpit rear armor shield matching the new side armor must also be made from .020-inch sheet to replace part 19.
This condition can be simulated by painting the inner window surfaces black before assembling the deck to the hull.
After painting the model and the guns, mount the machine gun assemblies on the inner railings and, if desired, attach cartridge belts from thin cardboard strips and short lengths of stretched sprue. My model of PT-155 is shown without rudders or propellers because it is to be placed in a water diorama formed from clear casting resin. John Snyder of WEM reviewed the photos and felt the brown color was probably close to Brown #4. That is absolutely gorgeous!!I've read a review on the kit and all comments were generally very good.
Regardless of whether the boat will be displayed in or out of a water setting, do not install the rudders, propellers or drive shafts at this point; they will only be broken and will make handling more difficult. Construct similar grabrails behind the forward turret and on the outer surfaces of both turrets.
Clean up the instrument panel, and after opening up the window in the charthouse access door, secure a piece of clear styrene or acetate in the opening with Elmer's glue.
If you choose to display your model on a stand, add these underwater components now and your very own piece of naval history is complete.
Again, my guess is with the 565 series.I think the easiest Italeri build of a boat to see combat would be a RON 29 boat in the Med.
The stars on my 495 build are all painted using his masks.I used the kit mast as a starting point and built-up and shaped the main verticals with sheet plastic.
Do not assemble the various cockpit parts until after the deck is attached to the hull since that process will affect deck curvature. I suppose that it would be best to take the best  the kit has to offer, and make some additions to spruce it up some. I think the 552-555 were built with 20mm in a Mk4 mount aft and a 20 mm in a Mk14 mount forward and they had roll-off racks. I cut the ball in half, cut the dowel to length and beveled the edge of the disk to match the taper at the bottom of the SO dome.
During this action several barges were destroyed, one, exchanging gunfire while trying to ram the 495 was sunk by gunfire from the 495 at a distance of 10-15 feet.Later in the same action, the 495 was damaged by a near-miss from a Japanese floatplane bomb. The ball was actually the right size but the dowel was undersized so the sheet made up the difference.
They did not use the 37 mm.For the Pacific, RON 27 got the first of the 372 series and RON 38 got the last to see combat. It will depend upon which boat and when during the war you want to depict it to determine what modification are required. I primed the wood and sanded so no woodgrain would show then painted white to look for defects and finally painted green. I had drilled a hole on the center of the bottom for a rod to make attachment to the mast stronger. Made molds and cast 2 additional 20mm guns and parts to make 3 mounts, 2 for the additional 20s and one for the 37mm. Modeling it would require the same effort as my 495.Building a 103 series boat will be even more work because of structual changes and if you want an early war boat with tubes, even more.
They used the same boxes as the 50 turrets so I had to made curved boxes and brackets to hold them.10. Almost forgot, the kit's ammo belt feeders attached to the twin 50 cals are only positioned correcly if the guns are level.

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