Please Note: Many builders have gone through color changes and utilize different color schemes on different boats. Because parts are built to order, we cannot accept any returns on account of color discrepancy. Our aluminum powder coated framed doors generally mount with either face mounting holes through the front face of the frame, or via inside mounting holes through the frame's inside flange. Face mounting is the quickest & most convenient way to install your new aluminum framed door. To add build up to the inside of your cut out, you will fasten strips through the front of the fiberglass mounting surface such that the fasteners are covered by the door frame when installed. Place the door in to the cut out and drill pilot holes through the mounting holes on the frames inside flange. Subscribe to our newsletter to be the first to hear about exciting new products and specials!
From Olcese Ricci in Italy these hatches integrate with the teak deck to create a flush finish. Click here to remove banner ads from this forum.This Forum Is Hosted For FREE By ProBoardsGet Your Own Free Forum!
Location: Haines and Juneau Hatch cover build I was recently asked to build a set of hatch covers, and thought it would be a nice idea to take a few pics along the way. 4) Next I'll use this pre cut coaming piece to secure and align the longer section as I hot glue it in place.
7) Next comes a nice even coat of PVA sprayed on using a small touch-up gun with a 1.0 nozzle.
10) Since this is going to a foam cored hatch I'll precut and dry fit the interior layup and the foam core.
Location: Haines and Juneau Part 3 Once the hatch cover is demolded and trimmed I like fitting them to the coaming on the boat, just to make sure everything is going to work like it's supposed to. Location: portsmouth england thats exactly the same way as i make all my hatch covers. Only I didn't gelcoat the mold, i decided to just spray afterwards and sand it out and polish. Location: Haines and Juneau I'm sure there's more then one way to skin this cat when it comes to building a one off mold set.
Applying the gelcoat to interior of the mold serves two purposes, one it helps eliminate the pin holes you get with just a straight matte layup, and two it serves as my base coat for future gelcoat surfaces that I'll be applying. I've got an old ES dump gun, but no cups, so I use modified HVLP guns or modified texture spraying guns to spray my gelcoat. Location: portsmouth england heres a couple pics of my gutter moulds before i flattened them off and polished them up. Originally Posted by garrybull heres a couple pics of my gutter moulds before i flattened them off and polished them up.
Originally Posted by midnitmike I really like the idea of using a gutter mold, it certainly makes for a nice flush deck arrangement. Location: portsmouth england heres the pics of the hatches all fitted and the deck gel gritted over.
Location: Haines and Juneau How about unwrapping that center console and posting a few pics of it as well.
Originally Posted by midnitmike How about unwrapping that center console and posting a few pics of it as well.
Air voids in outer lamenent » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post What was used on this engine cover? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
The following images show dimensions for the Elco 80' PT boat mast, before radar type masts became standard. We started to build a large shed on Gary’s drive to do the construction work, but soon ran into problems with his neighbours. In the mean time I had built the frames required to form the wooden mock up of our hull mould. Our project stalled for a couple of years due to other commitments, going fishing, lack of finance and going to the pub etc.
The desire to carry on however never went away and we were eventually joined in the project by John and Paul. John made room for our project in a corner of his work premises and we set about arranging the hull frames in Xmas week 2005.

My-self and John had our trade experience to apply to the construction, but none of us had any experience of working with fibreglass. We were all able to bring individual skills to the table, I would draw our designs and make wooden plugs, John would cut wood and entertain us with stories, Gary would send Paul to brew up and go to the shop, Paul would brew up and go to the shop.
If I were to go into every detail of our construction method you would be reading a book, not this short introduction.
I was able to draw and design the boat using a 2D shareware CAD programme down loaded for free off the internet.
The design of the hull and super structure GRP layup must be matched to the boats intended use and performance.
The laminate design for our project was arrived at by following rules and calculations as laid out in a book by Dave Gerr entitled “The Elements of Boat Strength”. The hull and super structure of our boat is built using 450 gm chopped strand matt and 300gm woven roving bonded with polyester resin and a finishing gell coat in appropriate thickness to the design requirement of each component. A far cry from our original simple design the boat we built has 37 individual GRP components that come together to form the finished article. Building a mould to produce these components uses the same principle for all, whether you are making a ring deck mould or a simple hatch mould. Accurate dimensions and angles must first be taken from your design drawings and full size wooden mock ups of the finished unit made. Sticking to one material is a good rule of thumb to avoid your plug (wooden mock up) from moving or warping. Make sure all external edges are rounded off and use filler on internal edges sanded and smoothed to a quality finish.
It is important to use polyester based paint systems so that you avoid any adverse reaction in the GRP later. Once you have achieved a first class finish apply at least six coats of wax, polishing in between each coat.
You are now ready to apply the gell coat for the mould followed by between 8 and 10 layers of chopped strand matt.
If this is a large mould requiring strengtheners or turning rings, the mould must reach full cure before attaching these. Make sure to buff the mould surface to a first class finish then apply at least six coats of wax to the mould surface. They say a picture paints a thousand words so here’s around 110,000 words worth of pictures for your perusal. Once the mould is at a class A finish apply six coats of wax and a release coat (first moulding out only). Now add the transome board at this stage it’s the same process for inboard and outboard motors.
The same process is used to build the internal cabin mould and all other small moulds Like cabin doors, hatch lids, buoyancy tanks etc. Accurate dimensions were critical here, as it was not known if the top would fit the hull correctly until the completion of the plug, the laying up of the mould and the production of the first ring deck moulding. Not only did the top need to match the contour of the hull it also had to marry in to the millimetre with, the under floor matrix, the front and rear bulk heads and the cut out for mounting the outboard engine.
On finally releasing the ring deck moulding, fitting backing plates etc it was offered up to the hull for the first time and to huge relief it fitted perfectly!
Wax the plug, apply the release agent and apply the tooling gel coat for the ring deck mould. Release the mould from the plug, inspect for and repair any problems, wax the mould and prepare to lay up the top for the boat. Offer the ring deck to the hull and secure temporarily with bolts, so that the top will always be in the same place as you lift the ring deck on and off while fitting the deck and bulk head positions. Once all the main bits are bonded together and some basic fitting out done its time to let the nice new motor, see some day light. This boat has been drifting around in my head for some time now and it’s a bit of a surreal moment when she finally hits the water. Hi there, what a cracking looking craft and heavily laid up it looked.Have you still got the moulds and if so would you be interested in selling them or hiring out.
Location: miami florida 27? Cabin Cruiser Molds for Sale *** Quick Sale *** We have for sale a 27? cabin cruise molds, the molds are in a great shape and are ready to build. I sell them because our company is building ferry cats and is no space and time for them, they are sitting outside; is a quick sale because we don?t want the molds to get damage. Thomas javeatom View Public Profile View javeatom's Gallery Find all posts by javeatom « boat molds for sale.

19' Bay Boat Mold For Sale » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post boat molds for sale.
Often, the easiest way to do this is to wait until you receive your new door and trace around the outside of your frame. Once your hole is cutout, place your door in your hole & use a pencil to mark your mounting holes.
Often, the easiest way to do this is wait until you receive your new door and trace around the outside of your frame. He has the touch no doubt!Finally got some pics of that online!Admittedly, the photos of this project aren't the greatest quality, but I still want to post the project for a little variety.Boat is an '80s vintage Bass Tracker TX-17. Because there are a number of pictures detailing the steps in this build I'm going to use thumbnails of them instead of the larger shots so they don't slow down reading of the thread.
These two coaming will be used for all three hatch covers, so they're well braced with a few extra tabs. Eventually I came up with a workable solution and a viable radius, so I went ahead with the build. This by far the smallest gun I've ever used for spraying PVA, but I was amazed at how much PVA it delivered and how well it worked. My procedure is to roll out a layer of gelcoat, sprinkle a bit of non-skid onto the surface, and then roll on a bit more gelcoat to even out the grit and give it a nice even look. Sorry these are going to be very newbie questions but i had to reply as I was googling this topic some months ago. That's mainly because i'm comfortable spraying after the fact and have never shot gelcoat yet in a mold. In my case I have three hatch covers to make and each of them are of slightly different measurements.
These dimensional images represent a best effort on my part, please confirm dimensions given here for yourself if errors cannot be tolerated. I drew some ideas of a basic cuddy fishing boat with a hull based loosely on Gary’s wooden boat. First decide what you want to build, we had decided on an 18 foot deep v sports fisher, with enclosed overnight cuddy, self draining un-cluttered deck able to take 220 horsepower in either inboard or outboard engine form. The board is bedded in on two wet layers of chopped strand matt and clamped tight until the resin has cured. The MDF plug was built in nine sections on the bench before being assembled for striking a mould off.
I cannot wait to build my own one day, but it’s going to take some saving up, sacraficial time from the pub, and a long delay from marriage for sure! For your reference, we have compiled a "best guess" list matching boat manufacturers' colors.
If you are unsure which color best matches your boat, we highly recommend purchasing a set! There is no doubt in my mind this is going to be my favorite gun for all of my future PVA work.
That means I need to be able to easily deconstruct and re-use the first mold in order to make the next two. I've just gotten used to the idea that I'll be sanding the exterior surface, fixing any minor imperfections, and applying a couple layers of gelcoat before it's done. Images are for non-commercial personal use only, please obtain permission for any other use. We chose Gary’s flat chine deep v planing hull design because we knew it performed well at sea and would accept inboard or outboard engine variants.
The board had been given three coats of resin before fitting and will be glassed in place with a further six layers of chopped strand. I’ve built dozens of vessels in my working career as a boatbuilder, but its always good to see people do it for their own project and pleasure! A pilot hole can be drilled for your screw mounting while a pass through hole can be drilled if your prefer to bolt on your door. That's one of the reasons you see so much painters tape, on the table, and on the coaming stock edges. My table is on rollers, so I can if need be, move it outside the door to spray and then back inside next to the heater to aid in the curing.

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