Because back when I built most of my boats we did not have digital cameras so I don't have to many photos showing my framework. The drawing that I have posted gives you an idea on how I use pressings to help reduce welding time and ease of fabrication. It was helpful to see the Body Plan section drawing, and to see the location of the bottom's longitudinal seam- I wondered where you'd found and then how you'd handled this very wide sheet into a break and then onto the frame? The pressed forming I see doesn't seem to be small radii that I often see from current shops, can you remark about the radius of the forming shown? I was glad to see that someone else considers it normal work technique to remove mill scale prior to welding- that seems to be a 'lost practice' in may online images of currently built boats. I hope circumstances allow you to build again, when time allows, since the work shown is innovative and well thought out, I do hope to see more and learn more from your posts here. Designer- Boat builders try to get their boat as far out of the water as possible to get the max speed ( Less drag ). Does not matter what method they use to this the problem they all encounter is what happens when they reach that speed then the rest of the hull hit the water whether it be the wash from another boat or a swell.The wetted area is increased very quickly and the drag slows the boat down causing much discomfort to the crew.
Have you ever played on a air hockey table.With the air turned off the puck does not move very good but when you turn the air on the puck flies around the table. I found by standardizing on one tooling saved cost in changing tooling.12mm Radius is what used, a good radius on the sides.
Originally Posted by monomad All the plate that was used on my boat hulls was 5083 - H321 Structural from 3mm to 6mm. Yes I agree with the formula on pressing 6mm but with the small amount of 6mm that we have pressed we managed with the 12mm radius. Location: Kenai, AK building details monomad, thanks for the information, I don't work in high speed craft and wasn't familiar with the aeration methods, but it seems like the vents would let the air out? I think air hockey tables work on surface effect compressibility so that implies that a marine shape would have to be shaped like an inverted, shallow, U so there was some compression to retain the air cushion?
I've heard of lots of technology that is supposed to remove mill scale or oxide but all of my own break bend tests have shown an increase in weld purity by mechanically removing oxides and then disturbing the reformed film just prior to welding.
I use the Lincoln 350MP with a pulse-on-pulse features supposed to be as well found an arc control as currently available for advanced MIG wave forms; but the welds are still better with mechanical removal and joint prep. Of real interest is the method of using the press brake to form entire longs, and transverse pieces, did your layout work happen by hand (lofting, marking, prep to cutting) or was this part of the computer technology now more commonly used? Originally Posted by Kevin Morin I've heard of lots of technology that is supposed to remove mill scale or oxide but all of my own break bend tests have shown an increase in weld purity by mechanically removing oxides and then disturbing the reformed film just prior to welding.
Location: Italy (Garda Lake) and Croatia (Istria) Kevin, that is one lovely boat! They are, without apparent awareness (?) building in their own boats' future deterioration by allowing substandard weld gaseous inclusions and surface quality deterioration, when for a little acid etching or mechanical abrasion that exact boat would last decades past the premature end they build-in! I'm at at a loss to understand this, and exponentially so when the level of effort to correct these problems is so miniscule? In this case, the welds can be placed very hot, since the bottom or support of the U is the upper edge of a sheet. This method allows one weld to fuse all three elements of the boat AND the top of the weld can be sanded fair without reducing the overall welds' structural integrity. This concept is shown here, but the drawing doesn't show the bevel that is used when the depth of the pipe or guard deck (flat plate at sheer, inboard of topsides) are thicker than the topsides. After tack up, the tacks are dressed with a rotary burr mounted to a high speed air or electric hand piece so the weld is allowed to 'burn out' the tack and leave good quality continuous welds.
Without doubt, images of welded aluminum are not the best the coloration is so subtly different that most weld details are hard to 'see' and clearly understand.
Also, the guard deck to topsides weld was already made and then dressed and chamfered using a 4" belt sander to provide a uniform (but beveled) seam on which to clamp and tack the half pipe. The rough sanding only takes off the crown of the weld, which, because of joint designs and preparation allows a very deep penetration; giving up the crown is not a structural detriment to this hull seam.
It's good to see the different styles of boats used around the world and your boat building skills sure do show in your boats.What HP do you use in your boats. It is interesting what professional fisherman won't in their boats because that boat on the water I posted here is the same boat the pro fisherman as moved the center cab right up the front and he still reckons the boat still handles the same.He shoots he's nets out the back.
The concept of the aerated hull is not to trap the air under the hull as this would only add to the slamming of the boat when hitting the water.
By allowing the air to escape freely right across the hull sets it up to ride on air bubbles thus reducing the drag. I always wanted to build a single design (or several) and produce the boats as low cost as possible to keep working year round, but my market just wouldn't buy the same skiff over and over.
I understand more about the aerated bottom idea now, and the notches, which I'd noticed are precisely laid out and cut make sense. In order to increase my feeble arm and back power I made hinged oar locks that swing outboard to increase my leverage and make the 8' oars more effective. So my building used to be commercial boats with more power but has dropped down to little boats with very little power. Originally Posted by Kevin Morin I always wanted to build a single design (or several) and produce the boats as low cost as possible to keep working year round, but my market just wouldn't buy the same skiff over and over.
I did not have my own press and like you having to get someone to press when and how you wanted it pressed was some times frustrating. Here's a simple 3m punt pressed out of 3mm structural plate with no ribs or stringers just seats, side pockets , front storage shelf.


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Tolman Alaskan Skiffs Building Plans does a great job outlining the various steps for building this boat. Welcome To Spira International Home Built Wooden and Aluminum Boat Plans be experiencing the fun and satisfaction of building your own boat. Hey guys I am new to the forum here and new to the whole jet boat seen and need your advice. Some get UHMW installed on the bottom because it slides over rocks better, but, it adds weight and because it is usually bolted on it adds leak potential.
I would advise adding strakes to the bottom, otherwise it will be like driving a car with bald tires on ice.
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As soon as I got them ane began cutting out the shapes and getting price quotes for the wood. I mean if it were trapped or 'run over' by the hull's shape, where the strakes would conduct air below the running waterline then are the shaped vents intended to disperse the air to a wider region of the hull? I appreciate the detail of the gunwale - the alu tube bent into such a precise and complex shape reveals very much about the level of your workmanship. In 1977 when I first began skiff building I requested this 'half pipe' extrusion but was not aware of the potential to copyright the extrusion template and lost out on what may have been a financial boon!
Therefore, once the sheer line is cut on the topsides, and the guard deck or 'gunwale flat' is tacked to the topsides at the horizontal; an extrusion can be clamped and tacked on flush or even with the top most surface. The topsides upper most edge forms the bottom of this groove, the extrusion's inner most edge the outer side and the guard deck or sheer flat plate's outer edge forms the inner side of the U. It is welded in the middle of the distance and in the after sections has been dressed with sanding and then finished (brushed) with the 3M ScotchBrite (tm) pads to the maroon or medium grade.
I had to adjust the sides, the interiors and even the overall length and shapes to suit - so I ended up building hundreds of net skiffs, for salmon fishing here in Alaska, that were very similar but had countless variations of side lean out, gunwale heights and more interior details changes than I recall. I was going on my 'ground effect' or cushion idea of the air hockey table instead of looking the surface boundary effect of the drag reduction by bubbles.
This dory was a 'metal copy' of a Gardener historical plan called the Chamberlain Gunning Dory, that I found in a book by John Gardener.
In this picture she's rigged for tandem rowing which is a nice afternoon outing in tidewater Alaska, given some fair weather.
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It is my understanding that a true flat bottom doesn't handle well and corners like a bitch. Something like a 10 degree rise isn't going to sacrifice shallow water running and with a 6' bottom and an inboard it it not going to be a tippy platform when setting still.



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