This is an boat dock located on a bend in Lake Austin across from Canyonland Nature Preserve.
I have been approached to tackle some woodwork repairs and minor rebuilding on a megayacht sort of boat here in the caribbean. I am a professional woodworker but my specialty is museum repairs on antique furniture--thin, delicate and hand-applied finishes. If you don't know, maybe if you state the type of boat and the wood etc, someone might tell you.
Attached, hopefully, are some images of a sister ship although the interior isn't an exact match it is close. There is a counter that had a pop-up tv (now replaced with flatscreen elsewhere) which I intend simply to replace. In the beginning, this almost sounds like you have a searail along your countertop, and the raised area carries a thick layer of this finish? This product was fairly popular in that era, and was used simply because it was completely clear in color.
Also if you can have access to scratch the surface of the finish, the residue should be white when you sand it. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
One of the challenges of building a boat much lighter than the original design is to not have the resulting boat look anemic. We have finished the decks and the coamings that cover the deck ends, the seat, and the floorboards. All major elements of the internal structure - bunk berths, cabin seating, floors, cabin sole, navigation area, galley, engine box and lockers - will be fabricated from half-inch (12mm) marine ply and bonded into the hull in exactly the same way as we built-in the bulkheads. Alacazam's design brief was for a reasonable quick long distance sailboat, easily maintained and handled by a cruising couple. We opted to have the anchor locker right forward, draining through limber holes in the hull sides rather than into the bilge. The sail locker provides stowage for Alacazam's sail wardrobe - mainsail, staysail, yankee, genoa, storm jib, trysail and asymmetric spinnaker. Location: Utica, NY No help for an old Pal(omino) Thanks for replying.
Location: Utica, NY Here are some photos that show where I'm at with the boat right now.
I would be interested in finding out prices on your product-even in pristine condition this boat would only be worth under $10,000.00, so I can't spend too much.
Location: maine I'll go out on a limb and take your word the boat has no value potential beyond 10k. If you use white oak or yelllow pine or even phillipine mahogany or spanish cedar, and put a good amount of wood preservative on it, it should be possible to see where the frames used to be---- they would usually go across the boat and be supported by the keelson in the middle (unless there's a walk-around engine). Think in terms of avoiding water traps, allowing all water to flow back to the stern, and use stainless or better, bronze screws.

Paint the ply, or there are some very nice and very expensive veneered marine plywoods that can be varnished (that boat likely was delivered with a painted or carpeted sole). Location: Eustis, FL Truly fine, original examples of these can gather over 20 grand. Since you're on a budget and not particularly interested in the highest resale value, make it the way you want. The soles in these were pretty simple, a 1x2 cleat down each side, screwed to the frames, with athwart stringers to hold it up in the middle. Unless your budget suddenly swells up, don't even consider mahogany or teak veneer plywood.
Location: Oshawa Ontario Interior I have just started on a Palomino myself. Also some substantial fore and aft stringers either side of the keel that do not appear in your pictures?
I agree the about your valuation of the boat but it is still nice to keep it as original as possible. Location: Oshawa Ontario The plot thickens I sat down in front of the computer last night to try an work out why the stringers look beefier on my boat than yours. The first step in the construction is to create the basic hull shape with steel mesh normally used in the construcion industry.
It designed by Bercy Chen Studioin cylinder shape, maximizes the views arround this building and capture more landscape into the visual frame. The existing finish I'll be trying to match is high-gloss and quite deep, having filled in and rounded all inside radii quite a bit.
This was a criteria for much of the wood being used when teak was being discontinued and many of the burl maples and some ash was becoming popular for inteiriors.
If this is the case, then you will also have a very hard surface to sand, or even strip in areas that you may end up just refinishing.
Remaining items include rowing cleats for your heels and turn buttons to secure the floorboards.
I think it was Nat Herreschoff who said "The only colors to paint a yacht are white and black, and only a fool would paint a yacht black". We're at the stage where the western red cedar strip hull is complete and the bulkheads have been bonded in. As a result the entire hull will be an immensely strong monocoque, with every component acting as a structural member.In my view there's no better way of building a wooden boat than using modern wood-epoxy techniques. Access to it, should you ever need to sort the chain out, is through a hatch (not yet fitted here).There are arguments against an anchor locker in this location, with much to be said for having the weight of the chain closer to the waterline - better still, below it - and further aft. The space forward and below of the infill is a storage locker with a watertight hatch (not yet fitted here), creating another sealed space in the event of collision damage.The spaces below the 'head' ends either side of the infill are separate stowage lockers with lift out top panels.
The foredeck hatch will enable the spinnaker sock to be hoisted directly out of the locker.
Not only would these be impractical for seating when heeled, it would rule out any chance of using them as seaberths when underway.

We make teak floor ready to glue on deck and other custom item out of teak solid or composite.
If you renovate for pleasure, I suggest that you make all furnitures with marine plywoods mahogany veneered. Nicely restored just under that, with 15K being a fair price for well kept, restored versions. I figured out the sole frames and have started to make the plywood gussets that are missing.
This method of construction can be used for most kinds of hull construction, including hard chine and radius chine. This boat dock also decorated with wonderful artificial waterfall that will give a peace sound when you on this boat dock. It has lasted well, considering its age (10 years) but is beginning to show white at the base. If you are saying that the boat is 10 years old, and is such a large megayacht, its also possible that an epoxy style finish simular to Stephani sp? But I didn't want to live with the unpleasant odours of seabed ooze permeating from the bilge that often accompanies such an arrangement. Unfortunately, the club is more of a social status thing than a resource for restoration-no insult intended. Put a nice painted finish on it (no carpet), maybe with a little texture and you're go to go.
The space under the locker and forward of the first bulkhead is completely sealed - a valuable safety feature in the event of being holed below the waterline at the bow.
This will have lift-out 'doors', as in my experience, hinges on fold-down doors are prone to failure.
Here's a much better approach to finding exactly what you want and getting the best possible deal! The cleat has to bevel to match the flare of the topside planking, but it's not very hard to pick these angles with a bevel gauge on each frame.
I bet if you with your trained eye can view this at an angle and tell if this is also the case. Connect starboard side frames with the port using a 1x2 stringer at the same line, then cut plywood to fit the two areas you need soles.
Given that my boat is a 57 and has the extra boxing and stringers in the stern, I am guessing it started life as a Colt.
As soon as I have some time and the weather breaks (32 was the high today) I am painting the bottom so I can drop it back on the trailer to varnish.

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