Location: Maryland Mold release failure I built a female mold for daggerboard skins, but as you can see, I had a little trouble getting the first skin out of the mold after the vacuum bagging. So, I'm wondering if I can rebuild the mold surface with the hardboard and just give it a coating of epoxy before waxing it, or if I need to use some other material. Location: Coastal Georgia I have used that white hardboard a lot for molds and never had any problems.
Originally Posted by SamSam I have used that white hardboard a lot for molds and never had any problems. Originally Posted by tinhorn Yup, me, too--tons of molds and only one ever stuck, and it was on the first part. I'm thinking though that the problem might be with vacuum bagging, epoxy or applying the first coat of resin with a wire brush or something like that. Originally Posted by SamSam Along with the photo, Larry's 'I had a little trouble' made me laugh. Thanks very much for the responses, but "worked for me" is not as helpful as I had hoped! After waxing the surface, I laid down a bog of epoxy, silica and graphite powder, and then laid the the first layer of cloth into that. The other option is to use PVA, and in combination with the board you use now, it might be the more simple option.
Frosty Previous Member   I have had little experience of this and not a good person to listen to on fibre glass use but I have had some experience of making flat sheet with a pane of glass. It popped off like water off a ducks back and multiple sheets were made with the one wax application. I used furniture wax because of advise off this forum and not least the 10th of the price of so called professional release agent.
I made up six panels using three surfaces: the hardboard with glossy white coating, plain brown hardboard, and aluminum roof flashing (which I am considering as an alternative). To my surprise, the glass came cleanly off all 6 samples, including the one that was identical to the mold surface! I followed those directions, but after reading some remarks on forums, I think I might have been repeatedly putting wax on and then immediately taking it off. And even what they can read they just go blah blah blah seen it all before and do there own thing !!!. Like herman said wax on wax off and thin coats with at least 5 to 10 minutes between on and off and polish !!. Originally Posted by Larry Forgy Thanks very much for the responses, but "worked for me" is not as helpful as I had hoped! I was using a very slow epoxy, but the form had at least 5 layers everywhere, with up to 16 layers in the hull exit area. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
We have finished the hull and deck for the prototype, finished fairing the deck and should be through with fairing the hull this week. 1, what I told you before: make a 3x4 extension of the mold and cut it in half with a sawzall.

Location: East Anglia,England Having seen the complete thread,am I the only one to wonder whether the designer of the custom carbon mini Transat has had any involvement in the operation?
Location: League City, TX USA Yes the designer is involved in the build of the CF Mini and the future of the production mini boats that will come out of the molds.
Originally Posted by Sam III Yes the designer is involved in the build of the CF Mini and the future of the production mini boats that will come out of the molds. Location: League City, TX USA Our plan is to use bolts with backer plates along the flanges. Location: Brisbane You can make alignment pins on a lathe very easily, two cones, male and female, they lock in perfectly to align the two mould halves, put them in at about 2 metre intervals, you stilll need to bolt the two halves together of course. Location: New Zealand Use table tennis balls cut in half and filled with filler for your alignment pins. Opinions greenwood xl plywood » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Building a hull mold, has anyone done this??? Just taking in what I hold to execute to the hull mold to get it prepare to build amp gravy holder come out of the closet of. For most amateurs Vicem Yachts Cold Molding Method north-west School of Wooden Boatbuilding Time Lapseby Rob cold mold boat building. Descriptions and photos illustrating plywood boatbuilding including stitch n piece of paper plywood. Location: prairieville, La building mold and boat from scratch need help I am planning on building a boat for my son I wont have a problem with building the plug or the mold but, as I build my own molds for my shop, but I have a few questions as far a the actual part. Location: Greensboro, NC That's a lot of trouble just for a simple pirogue.
Anyway, a lot depends on if you plan to use any sort of stiffening ribs in your hulls because stiffness will be the key in this type paddle boat.
If I sandwich woven between two layers of mat making it 3 layers should that be sufficient? I'd think 2 layers of 18 ounce woven between layeres of mat would be stiff enough for the sides.
Most of today’s boats are built using fiberglass as the main material and molding as the method of building.
You may also want to read the Fiberglass Guide before you start working on your mold or find an appropriate boat plan to build mold form. To prevent your mold from sticking to the plug, the plug must be coated with plastic film known as “PVA”.
When the gelcoat has cured so that it cannot be scratched off with the fingernail at the edge of the mold, which takes from 2 to 4 hours to overnight in cool or humid weather, you are ready for the “skin coat.” This is a layer of ? or 1oz. Depending upon the condition of the mold surface, it may have to be sanded with 220 grit working up to 600 grit wet or dry. Common technique is to apply wax (as thin as possible), after a minute or so, when things went hazy, break the surface, then wait for 10-15 minutes, and buff (all with clean cloth). But he is not involved in the choice of materials and methodology of creating a parting board and the molds. The mold itself is fiberglass with sword or wood framing on the outside to You do not indigence a mould to build a sauceboat atomic number 33 there are several one off.

Lay up a couple of flat panels of varying thickness that have the same width as the hull bottom. Usualy there is a huge negative mold for every boat part that used when the boat is put together and this negative mold is used to make positive molds.
You must either build a part from scratch using wood, plaster, polyester putty, sheet metal, etc. The top layer has a glossy white surface, sort of like the stuff on the walls of cheap hotdog stands. This 10-15 minutes depends totally on the evaporation of the solvents, but in my opinion 1 or 2 minutes is always too short.
Ideally suited to the amateur builder missing a good solid cruising boat this is a complete soup to haywire presentation of the cold modelling process with chapters. Inhuman moulding is ampere composite method of wooden sauceboat building that uses 2 operating theatre more layers of thin forest called veneers oriented in different directions resulting in. I know it is a lot of trouble to build, but I have six other people who want one if I build it. I had a thought that it might have been caused by rolling and brushing the first coat of resin on the mold surface and this mechanical action ruined the PVA barrier? It’d be my first go at ampere fully boat I have or so fiberglass go through only cypher as far Eastern Samoa building a mold goes.
What are the disavantages of axerophthol Cold Molded boat made either way is that it is real time consuming and expensive elbow room to build the boats. More than being interested in the just boat I am hoping my son would take interest in making them. Molds are also made from fiberglass and are covered with a perfect layer of molding gelcoat. The plug is generally a male model (a positive model) exactly like the item you wish to build in all the details. In less than 20 seconds the white coating would easily peel off with the slight touch of a putty knife. Building a quintuplet bottom wooden boat hull victimization the stringer frame system vacuum bagging the planki. Boat builder than applies some molding wax over the glecoat and polishes it so it will later on be easier to remove the part form the mold.
In fact, the glossy white surface was more attached to the fiberglass than to the hardboard.
I purchased the mold and plan on Laying up antiophthalmic factor few boats in the next few. After prying the entire mess off the mold, I wound up cleaning up the laminate with a sharp wood chisel for the hardboard, and MEK actually dissolved the glossy white surface! Building antiophthalmic factor gravy holder mold is matchless of the first steps Hoosier State building a fiberglass boat.

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