Such as this kit, a Monogram PBY-5A Catalina from Monogram, and built by Jorge Roberto Wolf.
Don't miss the links at the bottom of his page, those go to Page 2 and Page 3 of the build.
HiI don't know how old this blog is, but thought I'd add some input on the question of how to seal the drive system from water leakage.I just completed a Dumas tug model and the idea of using a grease stuffing shaft didn't appeal to me. For independent control of two motors the best bet will be using one of the new helicopter radios and two ESCs.You can set one stick for throttle up and down and use the right and left for differential of each motor. What started out as flat plastic stock, once cut and assembled, becomes seats, desks, radio equipment, and much more. In my job as an engineer, we sometimes have to transmit motion through a vacuum chamber wall and use magnetic couplings to do this. I use the inexpensive Fly Sky 6 channel radio.You might want the 9 channel for more goodies. I know I would like dual props and two motors, each direct drive, forward, reverse and fully speed controlled independent of each other (I presume) and a way to control the dual rudders.My ship is about 35" long, 7" wide amidships and 14" tall. I adapted this approach to the tug drive and built my own version of the coupling.Basically, the motor drives a set of magnets in a housing and couples magnetically to a magnetic rotor which is housed in a waterproof canister.
While the pictures are clear, and worth an hour of your time, there is a lot of text where Jorge tells you some of his methods and tips. I expect to make the hull out of wood and sealer with all work above the main deck to be balsa.What I don't know is how to match all these devices together with a radio transmitter etc.
The rotor is connected to the drive shaft which passes through a tube which is epoxy sealed to the hull.

I highly recommend you read it through, it can be very helpful if you ever thought of tackling a similar project. Some of your questions have been asked before in different contexts and in slightly different forms. It's a good indicator I probably should write a separate page for several of those questions.I don't think I've ever been successful in getting everything in a single purchase, mainly for two reasons. You have plenty of displacement to work with, without requiring extreme construction methods. It's good practice to have easy access to everything to do with control and propulsion.The most desirable solutions are concealed as deck houses etc. If you make sure the upper end of the tube is just slightly above the waterline, you'll never have to worry about water coming in. I like to use a brass tube with a close fitting brass rod as a shaft.I almost always make the rudders with a hardwood core the same thickness as the rod.
I try and make the brass rod not protrude outside the final shape of the rudder.Next I sandwich it all between two pieces of thin plywood.
Once the epoxy is set I sand it to shape.Installing rudder servos and linkage is difficult to explain in only so many words. I think this can be worked out later, as long as you make sure there is access to fiddle with it.Propeller Shafts - Most propellers and shafts for scale model boats have metric threads - M4 being the most common. To avoid taking in water, the stuffing tube is filled with grease before the propeller shaft goes in. I typically aim for two inches closest to the propeller.You need to figure out what length shaft to buy, and it can be tricky.

They typically come in two inch increments - 8, 10, 12 inches etc.Graupner is probably the most common brand, but there are others (Dumas comes to mind, but their selection is poor). Delivery can be a problem, so order ahead of time.Propellers - Rarely have I been able to pick a single propeller and motor combination that I've been happy with. The easiest, cheapest and laziest approach is to commit to a motor and be flexible when it comes to the prop.You may want to consider buying at least three sets of varying diameter just to be safe.
To keep the cost down, get plastic propellers and when you're in the ball-park you can upgrade to brass or bronze later.Motor - The power requirement is split between two motors on the model. Master Airscrew Speed 550 or Graupner Speed 500 would probably work well.The work-point for the motors will probably not be at max efficiency, since it's a direct drive. Since you will be using a left and a right hand propeller, I'd stay clear of the coupling that looks like an extension spring between two clamp collars.
The best ones have two knuckles - one to adjust for angular misalignment, and the other for radial offset.It's good practice to give it your best effort to avoid misalignment. As mentioned earlier, 4mm is the most common propeller shaft diameter.Most of what I've left out has to do with the RC controls - Transmitter, servos, Speed control etc. I feel that can be worked out once the boat is built and rudders, shafts, motors etc are in place.Hopefully, I'll have articles covering those aspects in detail once you get there.

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