Location: South Africa Fiberglass help needed Whilst hand laminating with CSM, some bubble like dry spots appear that refuses to be wetted or lay down - what can the cause of this be? Location: South Africa Manie, the surface is clean - the plug was gelcoated this afternoon and I let the gelcoat cured past the finger pull scream test, about 3 hours total.
Location: Australia Once the resin has set the only way is to grind out or fill with a syringe that I know of. Location: toronto did you wear gloves while you were cutting the fiberglass, i see this problem with guys waxing moulds and not properly washing the wax off there hands and you end up with areas that the resin wont wet out. Location: South Africa No gloves were used, but hands were clean at the time.
Will start filling those that did not bubbled out with a syringe and the bad ones that popped out be we grind out carefully and patched before the next layer goes on. The mat at places refused to be wet out and some of the bigger spots (two the size of my hands) did wet out and bond as the steel roller went over and then just lifted off again - no matter how much you roll it down.
Decided to use woven roving for the next layer as it wet out easier to get things back on an even keel before putting the next CSM down.
Location: South Africa Decided what the hell and let the apprentice and helper loose with small grinders fitted with sanding discs. Location: Monroe WA If these spots refused to saturate with resin and returned immediately after rolling, then it's an issue with the mat.
It's best to not apply roving directly over any cured laminate, the bond will not be as good as when mat is used as the first layer.
Location: South Africa ondarvr, it must have been the binder in the mat as no contamination was cause on my side, and the fact that most of the serious damage was on the one strip over the midship area and to a lesser amount elsewhere.
All layups will go on singular up to the CoreMat, but the last two CSM's will go on together the prevent heat buildup close to the gelcoat and to prevent warping of the mould.
Location: Monroe WA I must not have paid attention the making a mold part, I was thinking you were making a part.
For making molds one layer at a time the resin needs to be of the correct type, skin resins are promoted so they cure better in a thin laminate resulting in less post cure. Location: Australia Looking at the photos it does look like contamination problem, I am guessing not a binder issue but some other contamination that could have happened during the mat manufacturing.
As ondarvr mentioned you most frequently see this happen as a result of contamination with gelled resin.
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When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. If you use the boat as the designer intended it should not need any hull reinforcement either.
Location: Eustis, FL I would expect you'll need to install a mast step (at least) possibly a structural grid system to transmit the rigging loads to the hull.
Currently, your boat is less then 20% complete, which should provide you an idea of what's ahead in the project. Another question, it is important that the interior be the same as the original or I can make my own interior arrangement? Location: maine The mast step is a pocket for the mast bottom on the floor inside.


The interior can be how you like it, but often structures inside used for furniture (for sleeping or dividing spaces or cooking) also are placed in a way to strengthen the hull.
Location: Ga Transom Reinforcement I have a 16 ft Aquaforce, that I recently purchased used, the Hull # indicates it?s a 95. Now you can mix up a filler of epoxy and microballoons (or whatever), fill the bigger cracks with it and fillet the joints to a nice round radius. Location: Ga Thanks do you think a stainless steel plate across the back of the interior transom will help ensure its strength. Location: Port Alice, BC Using the steel plate will help but listen to what marshmat has to say - he is absolutely bang on.
For the metal bar to work, it would also have to have a flange extending lower on the transom, and be bolted there too. Keep in mind that metal reinforcements will help to spread the stresses around, but what is actually holding that part of the boat together is the glass laminates and joints. Location: Florida When it's out, you'll have a good look at the condition of your transom.
Location: Florida Was it used in one of those stock car races where the race car has to tow a boat? Your getting close to that point and you'll probably want to start with bulkheads that are furthest aft. Location: Herndon,VA As I left you all hanging, #4 and I were hard at work trying to figure out how to remove the water logged foam from our boat.
The tool did it?s job well, except for the fact that #4 didn?t feel comfortable with the big hammer-drill we were using to power the ?shredder?, and the diameter of the shredder quickly became an issue.
We went back to the drawing board, and soon after came up with the device to be known as the ?Foam Annihilator?. The ?Foam Annihilator? was great at it?s job at shredding foam and it fit down in there just fine unfortunately, it soon became too short for the task. Not to rest on our Laurels, we put our enthusiasm of this victory to work and started to get medieval on the starboard foam. I fed a fish-tape through the drain plug in the transom, forward towards #4 who then duck taped the handle to the fish-tape so that I could draw it back out through the drain plug handle first.. One of the things we got out with the vacuum was a piece of one of the stringers that has broken off. I have some pictures but even though I bought a new work light, I can?t really see all the way to the transom in my iphone pictures. Location: Herndon,VA Makes sense about floating the panels and distributing the exerted pressure on the bulkhead out through the tabs. I also noticed in that thread about the floating stringers, that original stringers were only tabbed on one side..
Location: Florida After some reading, it was my take that it doesn't matter to much what type of foam is used.
Now that it is set, can it be repaired by injecting resin into the void between the gelcoat and the CSM with a syringe to fill it solid before laying the next layer of mat? Then a barrier coat of clean laminating resin applied and waited until it kicked, followed by the first CSM coat giving the problems now. It may be the binder was applied incorrectly (uneven), or from handling it you contaminated the surface with catalyzed resin that gelled creating stiff spots that spring back.


I laid down a cloth instead of wr and all went well and the plug is now evenly covered with a rather fair and smooth surface to build upon. I would be wise to contact the designer to cover the bases in regard to the structural elements that need to be incorporated.
I had contact one person that have the same boat and I will try to visit him to take some measurements.
Well I purchased the boat knowing it had some slight cracking where the mercury 90hp two stroke outboard mounts on the interior of the transom next to the lag bolts the longest being on the left side if standing behind the motor and a slight crack on the right.
I was thinking of maybe attaching the motor mounts through it so the weight will be well distributed across the back with two additional lag bolts spaced evenly outside the motor mount.
I did the same sort of repair to my transom due to wood rot where the swim grid mounting bolts came through. Rebar fits and I can move it around pretty good but just trying to push the foam with the end just stabs into the wet foam.
We then affixed the reciprocating saw blade to the end of a piece of rebar to get some extra length on it, but when the rebar didn?t fit in the drill it was a slower more manual process. Once I had the handle through I could get the block of wood well positioned behind the foam. Unfortunately, it is pretty dark back in there, I think exacerbated by the fact that it?s still pretty wet, extremely wet. Here?s a slightly blury photo of the piece I removed where the top of the compression post was adhered to the cockpit sole, (just below the step).. If you do plan to use more layers of glass be sure to catalyze the resin at the lower end of the recommended range so you have enough time and the layup doesn't get too hot.
So I purchased a fiberglass kit and filled in the cracks and added 8-9 heavily saturated sheets to these cracks. Although this does not show the whole technical story, it is a heads up that the bulkhead (plywood) should probably not lay directly against the hull. Somewhere about this time, #4 noticed that the foam on the port side of the boat was askew.. Other items that you'll likely want are furniture cleats, hardware backing and supports, etc. It cured just find since then I?ve taken the boat out several times running way too fast across rough water, blasting across waves around St.
That said, I think in some of these photo?s you can see a color change from light to dark, which ss where I think the wet foam was and wet wood now remains..
The builder may be able to help and taking a look at their partly finished hulls may be a way to see what you've got missing in the hull shell. Sometimes reworking the surface eliminates the pattern for good, but it may continue to return. The fiberglass has since started to peel away from the edges, I thought maybe this was because I did not prep the area first and applied the fiberglass in the 4 ? 6 inch crack and put sheets of glass over the black and white splash looking paint.
Now I?m thinking the transom needs to be reinforced to help support the motor also when trailing the boat I have to go across quit a bit of train tracks which are really bumpy.



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