The '''stern''' is the back or aft+-most part of a ship+ or boat+, technically defined as the area built up over the sternpost+, extending upwards from the counter rail to the taffrail+. Sterns on European and American wooden sailing ships began with two principal forms: the ''square'' or ''transom'' stern and the ''elliptical'', ''fantail'', or ''merchant'' stern, and were developed in that order.
In 1817 the British naval architect Sir Robert Seppings+ first introduced the concept of the round or ''circular'' stern. The stern of a classical sailing ship housed the captain's quarters and became increasingly large and elaborate between the 15th and 18th centuries, especially in the baroque+ era, when such wedding-cake-like structures became so heavy that crews sometimes threw the decoration overboard rather than be burdened with its useless weight.
The flat surface of any transom stern may begin either at or above the waterline+ of the vessel.
The visual unpopularity of Seppings' circular stern was soon rectified by Sir William Symonds+. As ships of wooden construction gave way to iron and steel, the cruiser stern—another design without transoms and known variously as the ''canoe'' stern, ''parabolic'' stern, and the ''double-ended'' stern—became the next prominent development in ship stern design, particularly in warships of the latter half of the 20th century. None of these three main types of stern has vanished from the modern naval architectural repertoire, and all three continue to be utilized in one form or another by different sets of designers and for a broad spectrum of uses. The reverse stern, reverse transom stern, sugar-scoop, or ''retrousse'' stern is a kind of transom stern that is raked backwards (common on modern yachts, rare on vessels before the 20th century); the vertical transom stern or plumb stern is raked neither forward nor back, but falls directly from the taffrail down to the wing transom. Some working boats and modern replicas have a similar form of counter, built to be water tight as described in the "transom stern" section above. A bustle stern refers to any kind of stern (transom, elliptical, etc.) that has a large "bustle" or blister at the waterline below the stern to prevent the stern from "squatting" when getting underway. Stern+ The stern is the back or aft-most part of a ship or boat, technically defined as the area built up over the sternpost, extending upwards from the counter rail to the taffrail.
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When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Been doing a lot of research on this site and others on the subject of rot repairs to transoms and stringers.
What started out as a soft sole repair has turned into a transom and stringer rebuild as well. Location: Brisbane Rebuilding Transom on runabout As you have wisely retained the glass outside shell of the old boat, it is a perfect template for the plywood that you are about to cut as you suggested.
On the last insert, do not get any epoxy on the face toward the bow if you intend to finish the interior with fibreglass polyester, as poly does not stick to epoxy. Now that you have made your new transom, it is VERY important now to fit the outboard carefully. What you will have done is to give the bolts a surface to set through that is obviously watertight, has reinforced the hole and also gives the nut, washers etc something to compress onto, instead of simply crushing the transom as most people do. Should the new transom core sit snugly against the sides of the hull, or should it have a gap like the old one did? Normally I'd just reproduce the piece I tore out, but it looks to me like what I tore out wasn't the factory piece. If it makes any difference, I plan to add knee braces glassed between the new transom and new stringers, along with a splash well. The transom is brought up to the top of the corner Ryan and the cut out to suit the motor is lower in the middle.
Yes transon vertical knees are also good, depends on what horsepower you are putting on the back.
Location: maine i was just looking at your pics,, and did a quick read,, and see that you braced across ya stern,,,but you should have cross bracing too. Location: Indialantic, FL Hello, I'm in the final stages of a major transom repair on a 19' center console fishing skiff, and have over 3 grand invested, so I can appreciate the advice above. I eventually took the boat away from him because he was trying to scam at every opportunity, and am almost finished. Also I am wondering about the motor bolt holes, and if the gap exists there, I need to remove the motor, and fill the gap there also. I'm finally getting close to some minor gelcoat refinishing, then I can re-wire and run the motor controls, and get back out on the water! I don't think I will take on a project like this again, but I have learned a lot about boat building, design, and appreciate good construction. Most auto engine lifters (sometimes called cherry pickers) usually won't go high enough, but check around the rental shops and maybe you will find one !
The best I can think of is a cross beam (at least 2 - 2x8) supported by a couple of crossed 2x8 over the transom. Then using a rented engine lifter, you can get the engine upright and wheel it over to the cross beam and transfer it.
Back then, it was common practice to use the measurement of the gunnel as the length of the boat, rather than a straight centerline measurement from bow to stern. This original boat is still in great condition, but it is being professionally overhauled and reconditioned before being transported back to Chetek for display in the town museum. Meanwhile, I am creating a new version, not an exact copy, but the same style, without the benefit of any plans or drawings, only pictures and some measurements.

What keeps me going is knowing how much fun it will be when this thing splashes in the water. I am in the process of building a Ken Hankingson 20'Vee Gull.I have completed the hull construction but am looking to make some modification. If you wish to add more photos (or videos) to your post or if you have any problems loading photos use the link below (there is no need to resize or adjust your photos).
So, before selecting your photo please use the 'Message Box' to indicate to which post the photos belong. My father and I have been modifying a Hobson Solocraft under the guidance of the designer (Henry Hobson).
The original 16' boat has been extended at the transom by another 5' using polyester resin, mat and woven rovings, making it approximately 21' overall (6.4m). My thoughts now are to add perhaps two top-hat section stringers to effectively divide the aft section into three - roughly 2' wide each. Hopefully the pictures I attempted to attach worked so that the above ramblings will make some sense. Location: Tasmania This is the sort of thing I had in mind for the stringers. Location: Tasmania Progress Update The hull has been primed with Jotun Penguard HB. Location: Tasmania The new build has had some Jotafair added and has been primed ready for the Jotun Imperite 300 topcoat. Many of Henry's boats had fibreglass hat-section deck beams etc and that's the sort of thing he had planned for this boat, so it's hard to not go down that track.
Location: Tasmania Slow progress This project stalled for a while because of some family health problems, but we have been doing a bit to it lately. Finally got around to tabbing in the transom with 3 layers of 12oz Biax tape and 1 layer of 936gm (33oz??) biax over the top.
The join in the hull now has three layers of 12oz biax tape on the inside (as well as the 12" or so overlap on the outside) and I will probably give it a good sand and add another layer before the stringers get added. 18ft nereus Restoring » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post How do I add a transom extension to my monohull sailboat? I just started reading your forums here and they look great, there seems to be a wealth of good information along with many knowledgeable people. We have purchased a 1963 Pacemaker, We started out by pulling a couple of boards of the transom that were questionable at best. We are now at the point were the whole transom has been removed and a new frame is built out of pressure treated lumber. Some people have told me to just coat all the wood in West Systems Resin, without adding any hardner to it, give it ample time to dry and repeat the process until we have 3 good coats on all the wood then peice it back together with 5200 on all the screws to ensure that they also are sealed.
Any information on this would be greatly appreciated as the winter is coming quick and I need to get this closed up before the weather moves in.
Simply make the new transom as the old one was made, construction wise, but use two pack epoxy glue and then coat with epoxy resin (two pack) to provide superior waterproofing. Location: Milwaukee, WI The resin will never cure and you can't get it out of the wood. Originally Posted by Crankygeek01 Some people have told me to just coat all the wood in West Systems Resin, without adding any hardner to it, give it ample time to dry and repeat the process until we have 3 good coats on all the wood then peice it back together with 5200 on all the screws to ensure that they also are sealed.
Epoxy a and b need to be mixed carefully or you will have an unreacted component trapped and weakening the composite. The square stern had been an easy target for enemy cannon, and could not support the weight of heavy stern chase gun+s. Those not reaching all the way to the taffrail+ are called ''short stern timbers'', while those that do are called ''long stern timbers''. In this revised stern, a set of straight post timbers (also called "whiskers", "horn timbers", or "fan tail timbers") stretches from the keel diagonally aft and upward. The intent of this re-design was to protect the steering gear by bringing it below the armor deck. Variations on these basic designs have resulted in an outflow of "new" stern types and names, only some of which are itemized here. It is a compromise between the 'spoon-shaped' stern usually found on ocean liner+s, and the flat transom, often required for fitting azimuth thruster+s. Sternum+ The sternum or breastbone is a long flat bone shaped like a necktie located in the center of the chest. These strips were also alternated between the layers of fiberglass used to cover the transom. If you are just painting the interior, well the epoxy glue can be smoothed out nicely in the corners to save a lot of fairing work.
I removed the inner liner, sawcut out the inner transom skin, removed all the rotted plywood, then ran out of time and energy. The hardest part is over - getting the shape of the hull worked out, but to come there is side planking, decks and seats, upholstery, windshield and hardware, dashboard guages and wiring, steering and control cables, the motor installation, and the trailer, and the finishing coats and details on everything!
The first voyage, the champaigne, the waterskiing, the cruising the rivers and the chains of lakes, the boat shows, and all that pride of the accomplishment when it is done!

Solocraft are well respected in Tasmania by cray fishermen, abalone divers and others that expect a lot from their boat. Like any other project, the more you dig into it, the more that you find needs to be replaced. At this point, I know we need to treat the wood so it is waterproof, but need a little advice on the best way to do this is.
Make sure that the lazarette has ventilation when finished, this looks very much like a case of rot caused by damp conditions that have existed for many years. Salt water laying there causes evaporation, this increases the humidity, humidity is a feeder of fungi, and away we go again if you do not provide air flow. Originally, the term only referred to the aft port section of the ship, but eventually came to refer to the entire back of a vessel. But Seppings' design left the rudder head exposed, and was regarded by many as simply ugly—no American warships were designed with such sterns, and the round stern was quickly superseded by the elliptical stern. If the stern had transoms above the wing transom, they would no longer be affixed to the sternpost.
The two outermost of these timbers, located at the corners of the stern, are called the ''side-counter timbers'' or ''outer stern timbers''.
It rests on the top of the sternpost and runs on either side of the rudder post (thus creating the "helm port" through which the rudder passes) to a point well above the vessel's waterline.
The stern now came to a point rather than a flat panel or a gentle curve, and the counter reached from the sternpost all the way to the taffrail in a continuous arch. A double ended ship with a very narrow square counter formed from the bulwarks or upper deck above the head of the rudder is said to have a pink stern or pinky stern. Stern Review+ The Stern Review on the Economics of Climate Change is a 700-page report released for the British government on 30 October 2006 by economist Nicholas Stern, chair of the Grantham Research Institute on Climate Change and the Environment at the London School of Economics (LSE) and also chair of the Centre for Climate Change Economics and Policy (CCCEP) at Leeds University and LSE.
Cut and fit your plywood sheets, glue with epoxy from the fibreglass transom inwards the required layers untill the thickness required is met. Glass sheave the interior again when finished, using overlaps right into the topsides (after first grinding off any gelcoat back to clear glass laminate). The hard edge of the ply in the transom area is quite OK as it is a reinforced corner anyhow, and gluing it intimately all around is only a good thing. Then one dry, you remove the bolts, clean the holes of any wax, and then fill the holes with thickened resin. The United States began building the first elliptical stern warship in 1820, a decade before the British.
It is the stern timbers collectively which determine the backward slope of the square stern, called its rake+-- that is, if the stern timbers end up producing a final transom that falls vertically to the water, this is considered a transom with no rake; if the stern timbers produce a stern with some degree of slope, such a stern is considered a raked stern.
It was soon discovered that vessels with cruiser sterns experienced less water resistance when under way than those with elliptical sterns, and between World War I and World War II most merchant ship designs soon followed suit.
The torpedo stern or torpedo-boat stern describes a kind of stern with a low rounded shape that is nearly flat at the waterline, but which then slopes upward in a conical fashion towards the deck (practical for small high-speed power boats with very shallow drafts). Overlaps are to be staggered, first one at least 1 foot into the topsides, others reaching lesser degrees back to the transom.
Set this spinning inside the pilot hole and it will smash out the plywood from between the glass laminate of the transom inner and outer.
The larger the vessel, the more numerous and wider the transoms required to support its stern. Sternoptyx diaphana+ Sternoptyx diaphana, the diaphanous hatchetfish, is a species of deep sea ray-finned fish in the family Sternoptychidae. Though a great improvement over the transom stern in terms of its vulnerability to attack when under fire, elliptical sterns still had obvious weaknesses which the next major stern development—the iron-hulled cruiser stern—addressed far better and with much different materials. Stern John+ Stern Christopher James John CM (born 30 October 1976 in Trincity, Trinidad and Tobago) is a Trinidadian football player who recently came out of retirement to play for WASA FC. Sternotherus odoratus+ Sternotherus odoratus is a species of small turtle native to southeastern Canada and much of the Eastern United States. Now fill this hole and the void of course with epoxy and glass filler, put some masking tape on the inside when doing this. Stern–Gerlach experiment+ The Stern–Gerlach experiment showed that the spatial orientation of angular momentum is quantized. Allow to set , then drill out the new hole to suit the bolts for the mounting of the motor. It demonstrated that atomic-scale systems have intrinsically quantum properties, and that measurement in quantum mechanics affects the system being measured.
Sternoptychidae+ The marine hatchetfishes or deep-sea hatchetfishes as well as the related bottlelights, pearlsides and constellationfishes are small deep-sea ray-finned fish of the stomiiform family Sternoptychidae.

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