The Grand model canoe is a two plus passenger boat made using primarily Northern White Cedar in the strip-built style.
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Thread: Cedar Strip Canoe Repair - Any kind souls to help me plan the rebuild of this beauty? I just got myself a Great Canadian Huron, a 15 or so foot cedar strip canoe which is in sore need of repair.
I myself have never done this but I'm a pretty decent woodworker and I share a woodshop on the farm with a master craftsman. From here, I've taken pictures of each one of the damaged pieces which I will put in subsequent posts. So, I'm looking at this: How to repair a cedar strip canoe and honestly haven't perused too much on these forums so any links are graciously appreciated. Yeah I have to read up on the fiberglassing portion before that but the rest seems straight forward. Of course, there is also the concern of whether or not to strip down the entire canoe and start a rebuild from the start, so if thats something I should think of, please tell me know! So I figure I can patch this fairly easily using the technique in the link above unless someone wants to correct me. This step will probably come along last as its the only point which is highly cosmetic I believe. What type of wood should I use for gunwhales?What dimensions should I use for the gunwhales?How do I make a good form to clamp the gunwhales to? As I said, this is the part of the puzzle I don't know if I can really just hack my way through, it's going to require a bit more finesse. It's traditional nailed construction and the fiberglass is just a sorry repair to make it last longer. Our wooden canoe authority is Fitz who also inhabits the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association site with a lot of other experts. Overall, I think you may wish to evaluate how much time and effort you want to put into the boat before you get started. Spruce is one of the typical materials for inwales - you appear to need to replace most, if not all of the inwale - the ends are mostly rotted away and broken in several locations in the middle.
White Cedar - particularly Northern White Cedar - is desirable material for rib replacement. As an overview: Your biggest challenges are to get the damaged fiberglass off the hull and then do a good evaluation of what is underneath.

Well, PMJ - after your suggestion, he also found me via PM and the thread, How To Unbuild a Boat. Man, I am swamped busy getting ready for the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association Annual Assembly to be held over the next few days at Franklin Pierce University in Rindge, New Hampshire.
Great Canadian was building fiberglass-covered rib and plank canoes as far back as maybe the early to mid 1970s.
Removal of the old glass is a pretty big and nasty job, slowly heating it with a heat gun and trying to scrape or peel it off without tearing up the surface of the planking. Note: The plans assume you are thoroughly familiar with the actual construction process of a Cedar Strip Canoe using epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth. Nick Schade has been designing and building cedar strip boats since 1986, and is the author of two books on the subject. For more in-depth descriptions of the designs listed below you may look through the strip-built boat design browser. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. Any suggestions on how to do this, what tools to use or other links in the forum will be most helpful. I have a lot of Aromatic (Eastern Red) Cedar on the farm which I don't want to use due to epoxy dissolving issues.
I've read that some people use white pine as I wrote above, but I'd love a definitive voice on this to help me make my decision.
Just try to match it?Attaching - What are the fine steps on glueing and affixing it back into the boat? The one question I have is what to do if there is only a little rip in the fiberglass and nothing else? To really bring the hull back, along with all the other deficiencies, you will probably have to go over the who hull and re-clinch all those nails.
At the time, they were selling for about half of what other brands of the same basic thing sold for and they did it by cutting corners. Before you try to re-build one of these boats, you need to know how it was built in the first place. These original designs draw on the years of experience to create unique high performance designs that move easily on the water as well as look stunning on land. These full size plans include patterns for all the forms needed to build a cedar strip canoe. These plans include full size drawings of each form drawn individually so you may glue the patterns directly to your form material and cut out around the lines.

These plans include all the forms and plywood parts drawn at full size needed to build the boat. These full size plans include patterns for all the forms needed to build a strip-built kayak. These full size plans include patterns for all the forms needed to build a strip-built kayak. These full size plans include patterns for all the forms needed to build a strip-built sea kayak. I've been reading a lot and am learning a lot, but I'm superstitious and always want a real person giving me some of their own hands on wisdom before proceeding.
This basically means that for genuine repair, I'll need to take them out, bend some replacements and put them back in.
The finish on the wooden parts was pretty rough and I really suspect that at least the early ones were covered with fiberglass and polyester resin, not fiberglass and epoxy resin. Trying to sand the glass off is not a good option and usually results in a trashed canoe for most people.
You bend thin strips of wood around forms, gluing the strips together as you cover the forms.
These full size plans include patterns for all the forms needed to build a strip-built canoe. The hull may have origianlly been covered with canvas but I am not enough of a canoe authority to say for certain. You then sand the strips smooth and coat them with a layer of tough, transparent fiberglass cloth and epoxy.
The instant you cut through the glass, the sander attacks the cedar like mad and you end up with dents and humps all over the outside of the hull. All those big whitish areas are delaminated to some extent and show signs of water intrusion. Delaminated glass, if not punctured, won't generally leak or sink the boat, but it lets water (and air) in from the inside, between the wood planks and glass, and will spread and most likely eventually rot. The hull will really never be sound until the old fiberglass is removed and replaced, either with traditional canvas (probably the best choice) or with epoxy fiberglass that's actually got a chance of staying attached to the hull (trickier to do and somewhat controversial).

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