Ive been drawing a few sketches on graph paper the last few days and ive came up with a 12ft row boat but im stuck on a few things and dont really want to commit trying to build one untill ive all the proper info incase i make a balls of it.
Im wanting to know can i make the cedar strips thicker than whats used on canoes just to give it that wee bit more strength. Im only at the desgiun stage but im finding it abit difficult as i think i should be using 3d diagrams instead of 2d which im currently doing. Any help would be great because ive got the itch to build something else after succesfully building a plywood canoe last year. Is there anyone on this forum who can put my measurements into their computer and check to see if everything will work out for me and this boat will float properly.
Location: ireland Is there any reason why i cant copy and paste my pictures into this thread. Originally Posted by irish guy1888 Is there any reason why i cant copy and paste my pictures into this thread. Originally Posted by irish guy1888 Im wanting to know can i make the cedar strips thicker than whats used on canoes just to give it that wee bit more strength.
For what you're doing it's pretty safe to just eyeball it and if it looks right it will probably row fine. Location: maine I believe the thicker wood can add a lot of stiffness but the question is how much stiffness is really needed or even desirable. This is why an egg is damaged if you drop it on a hard surface but a skinned hard-boiled egg would be unharmed. You get something like four times the stiffness by increasing the core thickness by double. Strength is not just derived from stiffness but from a host of factors such as would help a boat to survive in real world conditions. I would encourage you to continue with design but realize, your firest boat should be designed by a recognized designer.


Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada I think it would be simpler if you took the canoe design and just scaled it to the beam and height that you needed. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada I took another look at this FreeShip file and I discovered that I can select just the points I want to lower, at the stem, using the scaling tool. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
I got her after sitting many years in my buddies basement, when he finally gave up on his project, and it became my project. I have her in my garage now, and after a good wash she is drying upside down on a jig to take out the sage in her bottom. So when I washed her I put a long brace under the keel to lift and she is drying in good shape. There are no broken ribs, some rotten strips (on the deck) from goose poop, and a few damages strip. I will look for a maker's mark on the pieces that were removed, but I could not find any marks on the hull. Im thinking of using teh method gill gillpatrick uses when building his canoes with having some cut outs of ply wood and bend the strips of cedar around these and join with wood glue.
My boat is 12ft long and 500mm high and will have a curve at the front and back of the boat but i dont know how much of a curve to put on it. If anyone can point out any mistakes or if you know of any changes that i can make so i can make a better boat,it would be great if you could point them out to me. The first few times you had at it, you probably could barely please yourself, but with practice and some guidance, you managed to impress one or two prom dates.
If you have the skills, experience and fortitude to follow this through, sure you can do it. Select one you like, build to the plans and save you inventiveness for the next build, when you have a better handle on things.


It illustrates the power of FreeShip and looks like a pretty and handy little rowboat to me.
To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. When i draw my boat on paper, i have a straight line where my gun whales go , is this ok to do or will i have to have the same curve as i have on the bottom. Judging by your initial post, I'd have to say you have none of the skills, understanding or practical experience to make this a reasonable and successful project. Changing things in small craft, without understanding and experience, usually just leads to a boat that doesn't do what you'd hoped, most often from excessive weight or worse altered hull shapes, that kill the boat's abilities underway.
As to the design aspects, unless you're willing to adsorb several large texts and some serious studying, then leave this as well, for a time when you have a far greater understanding, of the physics and engineering involved. I lengthened the 12' long hull by 20% then lopped off the stern at the 12' station to create a transom which I raised above the 500 lb displacement waterline leaving a small skeg. To attach photos, if typing a message in the Quick Reply click Go Advanced (or start your reply using the blue Post Reply button instead.) Then under Additional Options, click Manage Attachments and select the files and click upload. You want to develop the build scantlings, but haven't formulated up the appropriate structural considerations.
This isn't meant as an insult, but just an observation (abet a frank one) to what you've admitted. I also reduced the width of the sheer strake slightly although the plank widths need more work.



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