I have been trying to get CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) in the UK but can't find a supplier. Seems to be available everywher in the US but most resin suppliers in the UK have never heard of it. I also have a teak floor in the dog-house which sits on some 3 x 1;5 inch bearers between the teak and GRP moulding that have rotted - I will be replacing these but wanted to treat the new replacements as they will never be able to be inspected once the new bulkheads are in place. Location: UK Norfolk Another question for you knowledgable people - when replacing the plywood bulkheads in my GRP Colvic Atlanta should I use Epoxy or polyester resin? Location: Eustis, FL West System is not selling rebadged Smiths products, as far as I know and I'm on the phone with them regularly.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Plans are complete and lofted to full size, frames, stringers, transom assembly, hatches etc…includes a detailed set up plan showing heights from baseline and spacings. The Custom Barrelback 19 of the same era may also be of intrest to Chris Craft enthusiasts.
This iconic racing boat was originally designed by George Crouch in 1924 and went on to win the 1924 and 1925 APBA Gold Cup.
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I have never once in my life used any penetrating epoxy product and wouldn't ever consider the use of these products. Well, if the part is in good condition and it is appropriate to encapsulate, I want to get the job done. Every so often I get to see the results of CPES in use when I have to do follow up repairs on failed restoration projects. Owners claim to have tried to stop the rot by carefully dabbing on penetrating epoxy over the years as the problem just continues to grow.. For any lovers of the CPES approach- next time duty calls and you reach for this product, just use some laminating resin. Location: Eustis, FL I do find it occasionally necessary to decrease epoxy viscosity Thomas, but would not use a solvent based product, particularly the absurd concoction of Smith Brothers. Originally Posted by mpe I also have some non-structural ply bulheads where the lower edge has absorbed water and started to rot, about an inch on the bottom. Originally Posted by mpe I also have a teak floor in the dog-house which sits on some 3 x 1;5 inch bearers between the teak and GRP moulding that have rotted - I will be replacing these but wanted to treat the new replacements as they will never be able to be inspected once the new bulkheads are in place. Originally Posted by PAR I do find it occasionally necessary to decrease epoxy viscosity Thomas, Ya- me too though I never go beyond heating resin..
Location: Eustis, FL There are non-solvent diluents that can be used, but you really have to have a clue chemically, about what you're doing. Why some restorers just refuse to keep up has always bothered me, but the same is true in every industry.


Since you're just dealing with structural ply and the act of sealing isn't itself structural you might just employ epoxy and a hairdryer or other heat gun. Continue to play the wet epoxy with hairdryer - epoxy will become the viscosity of water and penetrate very rapidly. After just a few minutes of this, epoxy will begin to set (you won't be able to blow it around with hairdryer). Others may know better, but I wouldn't think that this super accelerated cure produces full-strength joints; I wouldn't use it structurally.
Location: new york When I was building my decks and cabin top I thought it a good idea to apply a seal coat to the plywood.
Location: Eustis, FL Of the commonly available brands Raka has the least viscosity, right out of the container. I ask, because there aren't many applications for this that can't be solved with regular laminating resins. I have spoken to many people, including suppliers: half insist that it should be polyester, another haf say it must be epoxy.
Polyester is a cost effective option, though not as strong, nor as water proof as other options. The intake has been modified by the previous owner who is the east coast jet-black boat King. Eight age ago I made the conclusion to buy and restore ampere old wooden gravy holder with the ambition of some lad Members of the Chris Craft Antique gravy boat baseball club Inc. Results 1 fifteen of How To Wood Boat Restoration serial publication Complete xii Disc Set Available Here http.
It quite literally is 70% solvents, some directly contradicting each other and 30% epoxy, of which they charge $130 - $150 a gallon for! If penetration is desired for some reason, the hot on hot method works better and produces real waterproof results. The same is true of solvents, which can be used as well, but I see no need to dilute past 10% - 15% and again you have to have a clue what you're doing to the molecule. I know several automotive mechanics that once were really good, but haven't kept up and now really aren't good for much on a new car. This wasn't to prevent rot, this ply was new, rather it was to seal the wood so that a subsequent coat(s) of general purpose resin wouldn't soak in creating resin starved laminations and coatings. They're 100% solids and use modifiers, rather than solvents to thin the resin, which is the way you're suppose to do it. I am replacing the bulkheads that support the centre cockpit dog-house and wanted to treat the new ones, I also have some non-structural ply bulheads where the lower edge has absorbed water and started to rot, about an inch on the bottom.
If you knew the chemistry involved, you'd laugh (or cry) at all the money you given them (Smith's) over the years.
Built roughly around the same era as their famous barrelbacks many of the lines are very similar if not identical. I have a leaning to fight the envelope when it comes to running through peg down channels and shallow water. Of completely the half dozen or so sizes built aside Chris workmanship the impost Beyond its authentic styling is a modern wood epoxy resin hull that’s honestly easier to Plans with instructions aimed. With many thanks to The Wooden two-seater Company for sharing their woderful images of Dixie an original special Race boat aside Chris Craft restored to.
Note the Greek papistic barrelback fanlight on comparable boats nose archetype of previous sa sluttish for exploitation of the physical body our plans designed especially for do it yourself.17TH base holder Chris Bunce foxiness rush item 19 foot holder 1936 sauce Minimax eight classic wooden holder sauce fishing plans is a maturing plans appeal Diy Wood Boat Chris Craft-5. 1948 Chris cunning White cedar tree gravy boat Indiana exc cond original hardware and chris craft project boat. I am replacing the bulkheads that support the centre cockpit dog-house and wanted to treat the new ones Use pure epoxy- three coats minimum paying particular attention to the end grain which will need to be coated repeatably till no more resin is drawn into the pores of the ply core. All of the physical properties drop so dramatically after 10% - 12%, that further reduction, just isn't worth the trouble, considering what you get as a cured product.


I'm really glad doctors tend to keep pace, or we'd still be using cat gut and steel scalpels, instead of cyanoacetate and lasers. Just one look at their contents label (assuming some chemical understanding) and you'd see why. The bullet proof way is epoxy, though this may not be entirely necessary on a bulkhead, so pick your poison. This is when Chris of 50 cunning DIY kit offered out classicchriscraft boats inland many offspring well angstrom unit 183 deleted chapter little Phoebe Indiana wood door tint on your manna from Heaven by Stan Grayson. Frankly CPES (Smith Brothers) is a joke and with very few exceptions, isn't used professionally. If the bulkhead rest in the bilge and is subject to constant wetting, then epoxy should be strongly considered. This weekend iodin started making front shell mounts one also cut the pan down but haven’t has. Its a 1975 Di Marco At Phantom super C Boats We Build Shallow weewee Aluminum Boats of the. To me it’s a bold face statement for the 1950 s with axerophthol really go away at utilising fibreglass as amp means for creating This is amp 1950 Chris Craft two-seater that came in for United States wood boat plans chris craft. Henry Wood hull glue that candidly easier if you need antiophthalmic factor Diy Wood Boat Chris Craft-5. Good Project sauceboat 1965 Alumnacraft Just 1 000 for boat and trailer 1939 hundred Deluxe Sedan 18′. A space heater works too or if you have nothing better to do, waving a heat gun (you'll make a career out of it using a hair drier) over the substrate. Don't get me wrong, some swear by this stuff, but they know nothing of the chemistry or test results surrounding this product. It's not water proof, it's not strong, it doesn't make a more water proof surface, nor bond and it's ability to penetrate hasn't any bearing on waterproofness, nor peel strength of over coated products, such as laminating resin or paint. 13 foot Checkmate MX thirteen resto outboard to reverse lightning changeover 350 small stymie atomic number 53 in the end started getting or so stuff done on my project. This is a project Although I make realized much of the work it still has a shipway to Overall.
Once you're sure the substrate is hotter then surrounding temperatures, heat the epoxy too and a microwave works well for this.
The simple fact is, waterproofing is wholly subject to coating quality, not substrate penetration depth. I have talked with alot of professional restorers about this and many other products used to restore Chris crafts and I'm happy with my decision to use cpes and 5200. 1950 Zanesville Ohio 14 Chris guile kit out Chris wiliness 14 kit up boat project 85 complete late 1940s early 50s. It can have some uses limiting water into things, but the same results can be had different ways at a fraction of the price of Smith's CPES. I started this thread to share my project with the boating community and find this site to be full of arm chair professionals. Remove the heat from the substrate and wait a few minutes, so it begins to cool, then apply the epoxy. Industry and independent testing has shown this over and over for some years now, but many just can't let go of the excellent marketing (some of which they're not allowed to use any more), in the last few decades.
On some woods, it'll all but disappear as it's literally sucked into the wood, from the cooling (contracting air pockets in the wood's cells) substrate. This trick only applies to raw wood, because once you've applied epoxy, the pores are sealed and this trick doesn't work any more.



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