Location: Vermilion, Ohio Seeking client for Chris-Craft restoration project I have a 1958 35' Chris-Craft Constellation and I'm looking for a buyer who will contract with us to restore it to new condition. The attached pictures show her present condition and include some shots of a sistership showing how good she can look.
Propellers New & Used » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Should I tackle this? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. You will be hard pressed to find another site where such good information can be found on such a diverse range of topics on things boating.. I have never once in my life used any penetrating epoxy product and wouldn't ever consider the use of these products.
Well, if the part is in good condition and it is appropriate to encapsulate, I want to get the job done. Every so often I get to see the results of CPES in use when I have to do follow up repairs on failed restoration projects. Owners claim to have tried to stop the rot by carefully dabbing on penetrating epoxy over the years as the problem just continues to grow.. For any lovers of the CPES approach- next time duty calls and you reach for this product, just use some laminating resin.
Location: Eustis, FL I do find it occasionally necessary to decrease epoxy viscosity Thomas, but would not use a solvent based product, particularly the absurd concoction of Smith Brothers. Originally Posted by mpe I also have some non-structural ply bulheads where the lower edge has absorbed water and started to rot, about an inch on the bottom.
Originally Posted by mpe I also have a teak floor in the dog-house which sits on some 3 x 1;5 inch bearers between the teak and GRP moulding that have rotted - I will be replacing these but wanted to treat the new replacements as they will never be able to be inspected once the new bulkheads are in place. Originally Posted by PAR I do find it occasionally necessary to decrease epoxy viscosity Thomas, Ya- me too though I never go beyond heating resin.. Location: Eustis, FL There are non-solvent diluents that can be used, but you really have to have a clue chemically, about what you're doing.


Why some restorers just refuse to keep up has always bothered me, but the same is true in every industry. Since you're just dealing with structural ply and the act of sealing isn't itself structural you might just employ epoxy and a hairdryer or other heat gun. Continue to play the wet epoxy with hairdryer - epoxy will become the viscosity of water and penetrate very rapidly. After just a few minutes of this, epoxy will begin to set (you won't be able to blow it around with hairdryer). Others may know better, but I wouldn't think that this super accelerated cure produces full-strength joints; I wouldn't use it structurally. Location: new york When I was building my decks and cabin top I thought it a good idea to apply a seal coat to the plywood. Location: Eustis, FL Of the commonly available brands Raka has the least viscosity, right out of the container.
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 United States License. If you, or someone you know, are interested in more detail, please email mail me for information or to arrange a conversation. It quite literally is 70% solvents, some directly contradicting each other and 30% epoxy, of which they charge $130 - $150 a gallon for! If penetration is desired for some reason, the hot on hot method works better and produces real waterproof results. The same is true of solvents, which can be used as well, but I see no need to dilute past 10% - 15% and again you have to have a clue what you're doing to the molecule. I know several automotive mechanics that once were really good, but haven't kept up and now really aren't good for much on a new car. This wasn't to prevent rot, this ply was new, rather it was to seal the wood so that a subsequent coat(s) of general purpose resin wouldn't soak in creating resin starved laminations and coatings. They're 100% solids and use modifiers, rather than solvents to thin the resin, which is the way you're suppose to do it.


I estimate the project will cost about $180,000 - or possibly more depending on certain options.
I am replacing the bulkheads that support the centre cockpit dog-house and wanted to treat the new ones Use pure epoxy- three coats minimum paying particular attention to the end grain which will need to be coated repeatably till no more resin is drawn into the pores of the ply core. All of the physical properties drop so dramatically after 10% - 12%, that further reduction, just isn't worth the trouble, considering what you get as a cured product. I'm really glad doctors tend to keep pace, or we'd still be using cat gut and steel scalpels, instead of cyanoacetate and lasers. A space heater works too or if you have nothing better to do, waving a heat gun (you'll make a career out of it using a hair drier) over the substrate. Once you're sure the substrate is hotter then surrounding temperatures, heat the epoxy too and a microwave works well for this.
I have talked with alot of professional restorers about this and many other products used to restore Chris crafts and I'm happy with my decision to use cpes and 5200.
I started this thread to share my project with the boating community and find this site to be full of arm chair professionals. Remove the heat from the substrate and wait a few minutes, so it begins to cool, then apply the epoxy.
On some woods, it'll all but disappear as it's literally sucked into the wood, from the cooling (contracting air pockets in the wood's cells) substrate. This trick only applies to raw wood, because once you've applied epoxy, the pores are sealed and this trick doesn't work any more.



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