Location: Eustis, FL The Danenberg method is just as costly to preform as an epoxy bottom, doesn't last nearly as long and doesn't insure it'll be waterproof, which epoxy can.
In short, you can get another 50 years from her,, using the exact methods previously employed by Chris Craft, possibly with some material substitutions.
Location: Eustis, FL If you're 50 and plan on living the expected life span of a 5200 bottom, you'll be doing this again before you're dead.
With an epoxy bottom job, you can toss out the intermediates, which saves a fair bit of weight. Asking for further advice while continuing a build in your own way is like asking some one to waste their breath. Good part is, if someone offers REALLY REALLY good convincing advice, you can still return the 5200 supplies.
I'll let you know how long it takes for my kid to destroy the epoxy boat tub I built last year.
Location: Milwaukee, WI Adding a rigid bottom to that hull will damage the sides, transom, bow stem and deck.
Originally Posted by gonzo Adding a rigid bottom to that hull will damage the sides, transom, bow stem and deck. Location: Milwaukee, WI I may not give you good news, but wishfull thinking does not get the job done.
Location: Eustis, FL Actually the hull becomes quite rigid Gonzo, without difficulty.


When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
In the latest addition of Woodenboat Magizine, the three major reconstruction types are covered. The 5200 bottom was once thought to be the cure all to some build types, much like those that thought CPES was the cure all to wood rot. 5200 acts as a bedding compound and if a trailer kept boat preforms this job fairly well, though future repairs will have someone cussing at the mentality of the previous repair person for using 3M 5200 rather then polysulfide. On the other hand, you can use an epoxied bottom technique that will produce a stronger, lighter and more water tight version, that will last at least as long, likely longer then the original or you can get a decade and a half out of a 5200 bottom.
The primary difference between the 5200 and epoxy bottom job is, the 5200 bottom uses CPES to partly waterproof the wood and 5200 to take up the moisture content changes, while epoxy makes it completely waterproof so there's no dimensional changes in the bottom, wet or dry. Because the frames are bonded to the bottom just makes the structure stiffer, but doesn't prevent the other elements from moving if they so desire. I'm a 30 year cabinet maker with extensive experience in model race boat building and was looking for a large scale project.
Thought the author of the piece doesn't comment on the long term value of the 5200 bottom, it's clear he prefers either just as was done originally or the epoxy. I have another boat for family weekends at the river, this chris is a project boat that will see limited use. Quite the contrary, it was you stating what method you were using and others stating their opinions.


The new bottom doesn't move, nor do the lower futtocks, but everything else is still mechanically fastened. It costs more to do a 5200 bottom, because the planks have to be sound and the 5200 costs more then epoxy. Load transmission is still permitted and over a larger portion of bottom, then a straight mechanically fastened bottom. With this type of bottom, you can usually save even really ugly bottom planks, but not so with a 5200 bottom, where the planks must be sound. A 5200 bottom 5200 is just a modern bedding, other wise is essentially the same as an epoxy bottom.
The first thing noticed is hole shots are much crisper, again because the bottom is receiving and dispersing loads much more uniformly then the original or 5200 bottom can deliver. The thing I like about the 5200 method is that the bottom is soaked as the 5200 cures, thus eliminating the swell factor.



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