Some of you may recall my last project ( Playing around with a 10 m trailer cruiser ) and I very much appreciate the excellent discussion and heaps of advice that came from that one. Please keep in mind that this is only the 9th iteration of the design, and the first iteration in which the complete tri form is assembled. The length of the ama's also looks good, I don't like these short thingy's they put on some tri's. I've been playing with the idea of having the fuel, gass bottles in the ama's as well as the batteries. Location: Australia I'll be intereseted to see how you manage to squeeze those 2-for-a-week accomodations in. The place for the pipe berths is where the hull flares wide, and if you make them telescopic or foldable they are away when you are awake, and you bring them out when you want to sleep.
An earlier series of attempts with a catamaran led to disappointment accommodation-wise; the hulls just couldn't be made wide enough to fit bunks without compromising the efficiency that made the cat attractive. Have a look at the sail setup I used for the little tri, easier than that you can't get, any one even a novice can sail it. As much as I like sailing, a mast would be rather difficult here unless it can be folded and re-stepped by one person in a minute or two. You can add two shorter stand alone masts ie 10m each and still have a large sail area, again more manageable than one huge sail. The initial 'cabin' I designed was a canvas tent, but tents are cold, noisey in wind and hot in the sun.
2.5 tonnes is at design displacement for both the cat and the tri versions of what I'm working on now. If you consider that I have a small 12m^2 sail on only a 6m mast of which 700mm is in the hull, then if it was a cat there would be 24m^2 on a double setup. A more proprtional mast would be 8m in length, then 2 masts would give a 36m^2 sailing area.
That said, one must be carefull that you don't just make lift and no foreward power, it's a cat remember, not a hovercradft The longer mast improves this relationship some, modest lift with good foreward force. Location: Eustis, FL You don't want the trailer supports to hold up any potions of the planking if you can help it. If your planking is well fastened, the deck tight and well attached, the keel solid and not permitted to hog (well supported), then the turn of the bilge will resist sagging for some time. Location: La Florida If bunks touch planking, make sure it is wher planks are backed by frame members. Location: Eustis, FL Since the frames are perpendicular to the planking seams, it stands to reason that bunks will hit many. As mentioned, the bunks should land directly below the engine bed stringers, which is a single screw or outboard powered boat will be 24" apart. The real key is to insure there aren't any hard edges pressing against the planking, between frame bays or stringers. Location: Eustis, FL In one of your exterior photos, there appears to be a log (hunk of wood) on the planking. You boat is light enough to tolerate bunks at the bilge turn, but again they just keep the boat from flopping over onto her flanks and don't push up into the planking. Your trailer doesn't appear to have enough keel rollers, especially along the forward sections. The first iteration of trailer my boat had a keel support with bilge bunks for keeping the boat upright on the trailer. When I purchased the replacement, the guy selling the trailer said I had it set up wrong for a wooden boat. Location: Eustis, FL You're right to be concerned about the pressure points. I intentionally positioned the bunk boards where the pads would live after is was home (at the turn of the bilge, not under the boat). On your boat, the stub keel can easily bear the boat's weight, so make a box or set of athwart bunks that is can rest on.
The ideal trailer setup is no bilge supports at all, just a place for the keel to rest and vertical supports that rest against the rub rail along the sheer, which just prevents the boat from flopping over.
Location: WNY I think then that I will add a keel bunk, but also keep all of the other bunks. Location: Eustis, FL Make the keel bunk sides as tall as you can and slope them outboard, so they act as a funnel when the keel is trying to find them.
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I've spent a bit of time searching, but found no interesting threads so throwing it out there for discussion. Be gentle on me, I've spent the last 28 years in the air as a Commercial Pilot, so even though I've sailed a few times I'm relatively new to water. Location: Auckland, New Zealand No reason at all, in fact its been done already, apart from the folding bit about the trailer. What the photos show is that the difficulty lies in making it look like a coherent boat rather than a lash up (although it looks like the creators of the boats shown didn't even try).
Location: Tucson, AZ LOL - yep, saw those pics on the net - but I'm not talking about ghetto engineering here. My trailer is one year old and equipped with a flat screen hdtv, fridge and freezer, swamp cooler AND ac, an inverter and 90 watts of solar panels. I'm not too concerned with how it will look - any way you slice it this is going to be one strange looking rig. Location: shreveport,La I thought I had a original idea using pontoones, a cabover truck camper 11 or 12 ft with small bath and toilet and a small 4 cylinder diesel motor, standard tranny, using the rearend with padles welded on truck rims, a rear rudderfor steering, and have a cabin area under the overhead bed area with all controls and also a small say 10hp outboard with electric start in the front area for getting into tight marinas and also as a back-up motor in case of problems with main engine setup. Originally Posted by RonKMiller LOL - yep, saw those pics on the net - but I'm not talking about ghetto engineering here.
Location: Bellingham WA I think if it were me I'd put four padeyes on deck so you can bolt the trailer down to it to prevent shifting. Whit the trailer you've got you could put a lightweight screen around the chassis and it would actually look like a real houseboat. Somewhere I have pictures (the paper kind) of a towboat on the Columbia that had a travel trailer dropped on her superstructure behind the bridge for crews quarters.
We agreed that water and wilderness, along with sublime comfort, would be the ideal combination. Down at the lake, a guy put a travel trailer on a toon, but he took the axel and wheels off and set the frame on the deck. Production toons are not really designed to take a heavy load within a dew square inches like the floor of a house.


You might consider additional joists and blocking over the tubes IMO or setting the trailer flat and secure it spreading the load more equally on deck. Powell is a large lake, never been on it, but I bet you have plenty of wakes and chop at times, I would think that this would be a problem for the concerns I pointed out, might be fine on still waters, but I wouldn't count on still waters, especially trying to cruise.
Just think the deck connections will not hold up and the deck will take a beating from stress. I'm certainly no engineer either, but as a commercial pilot I have learned a few things about weight and balance over the years. Tug boat propulsion » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Folding T-Top? Doonan Specialized Trailer has developed a boat trailer design for one of America’s industry leading boat manufacturers. Advanced engineering and manufacturing processes were key in the design of a niche series of 48-foot by 102-inch Black Gold Dropdeck trailers, encompassing a 10-foot top deck, V–type cross-members and a 5-foot rear pull-out extension. Additional features include an Apitong wood floor at the rear and along the sides of the center V-design to allow for other freight types, specially designed stake pockets and dual rubrails and a Tiremaax Pro Air Inflation System for increased tire life. Location: SF bay thanks, Ron, did you get the bit about how that mast is also the trailer frame? Or since I figure the trailer will have total of 6 wheels, be able to reuse the wheels and attach to hull and use power from tow vehicle with belts or chain so the whole boat could crawl out of the water as a unit. Edit to add--looks like they are there on closer inspection--they just fold down at anchor.
Originally Posted by viking north Ron as a mono hull builder I seldom venture into other marine vessel styles mainly because like many on the forum I have limited time so concentrade on where we can learn and have input. I've got electric brakes on my trailer, but they are not powered up while on the boat or when winching it off. On my boat, all three pontoons (logs) have 3 separate chambers separated by an aluminum bulkhead, so I've got 9 chambers total.
I've got the lifeboat - errrrr, kayak - always at rope's length already deployed and ready for a fast evacuation. Originally Posted by dstgean No dog in this fight, but the third or fourth pic in your excellent photo essay includes shots prior to adding the skirts. Dan Yep, exactly - they fold down when anchored - or if you want they can also be deployed when underway as long as there's no chop.
We had Martinis and partied late into the night - they were from California and in the music biz.
Then again, I've got about $20K (plus a lot of sweat equity) involved versus $2.5M - so I'll just have to put up with my physical inadequacies. Originally Posted by RonKMiller Yep, exactly - they fold down when anchored - or if you want they can also be deployed when underway as long as there's no chop.
With the Jayco camper on top it floats in a couple of inches of water allowing a stepping distance on shore lines.
The camper can be winched on and off barge at a recluse setting and the barge could be used as a large boating platform to quickly explore distance areas of the locations economically or a jetty. Location: Thailand I just made a edit on the above to two 15 hp four stroke Johnson outboard motors incase some read 25 hp beforehand.
To date my boat has been inspected by the Coast Guard and received two yearly safety inspections in a row. I think if they would take the time and effort to actually build something, (like you and me) instead of being so cavalier with their negative comments I might be a bit more tolerant. The simple fact is that it has now been on several different bodies of water - including cruising the California coast line (although close enough to swim to shore). Originally Posted by myark This is another version of a pop up camper on top of a barge platform I invented 17 years ago.It has two 15 hp four stroke Johnson outboard motors and will plan with a Jayco camper on top.
You can use the link above to see the Myark folding trailer barge with campervan on lake lake Waikaremoana, map below.
The other Myark barge is self trailer landing barge I designed and manufactured that has removable torsions suspension and wheels. Chris Ostlind Previous Member   Trailer Cat Design Study I've been looking at trailer width, plywood build cruising cats for quite a while now. I did my own version and I'd like to hear any comments from the Boatdesign readers as to what is working for them and what is not after you take-in the new design, the Gato Especial. The cabin interior accepts a queen-sized bed, has room for a small, two-burner stove something along the lines of a Coleman unit and there's room in one of the hulls for a curtained Porta-Potti setup. The hull shapes create a full-length spray chine, which also expands the interior volume while keeping the ride drier and more comfortable.
Engine power is from a 5-8-hp outboard hung from the transom between the hulls with a hoisting mount. Straight forward construction in stitch and glue style with marine ply and epoxy glass inside and out allows modestly skilled builders a chance to have a nice cruising boat within their reach. I've got this pair of guys over in Athens Greece, who are just banging away on the build of my Gato Especial 21' cruising catamaran. They just sent me the second pile of progress photos of their project and things are looking pretty good. The thought of a cool glass of Greek wine, a nicely grilled, freshly caught local fish and a mound of tasty Dolmades while lounging at anchor just knocks me out.
Chris Ostlind Previous Member   Small craft design represents a long list of issues which are much less in evidence when doing larger boats.
The solution you mention can also be a good one, though it has its own things which the owner must consider as a use process in order to go sailing. There is a lot of fertile ground to be explored in this category with all sorts of possible solutions to be implemented. Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers.
This has always been the problem with small multi's - there simply isn't enough room in the hull volume to move around.
8 m on the waterline, draught 30 cm at a hair over 2 tonnes, hulls at 4 m centre-centre, and folds down to something that might fit on the trailer. What you want is the boat to rest on her keel and be prevented from flopping over onto her flanks with bunks or my preference are support stands. A few well placed, turn of the bilge support stands can keep them from drooping to a degree, but if drooping becomes and issue, it's not the trailer, it's something else, like loose fasteners.
You'll probably have to make up some brackets to hold rollers, but it's not particularly difficult.
Also not visible are the angle stock cross braces later installed, to keep the verticals up right and not spread, as the boat leaned against them.
A PVC pipe V in front of the keel box would do the same thing; keep the boat centered over the box, until it's pulled shallow enough to drop in.


I have this (probably) insane idea of taking my Chalet folding travel trailer - wheels and all - and simply parking it on top of a pontoon boat deck. I think this solved various problems having to scotch the wheels and the consentration of weight on the deck where the tires meet the deck.
The flawless Meranti plywood floor connects everything together so it is acting only in tension, it is not weight bearing at all.
GVWR-rated trailer was developed to haul either a load of boats lying flat or a stacked load, standing at an angle on custom racks that fit a specialized stake pocket design.
I was not the only one that presented this same idea as per my apology to a former posted on the same idea. For example i seldom partake in threads on racing sail boats - powerboats- and almost never multihulls. Even though some of them are pretty darn close to what I wanted, there was still a bit of fluidity to the lines that I was looking for that I could not find in the available designs. Rudders are flip-up variety mounted in sugar scoop style transoms with boarding steps integrated in the structure.
With any luck with the weather and a work ethic like this, they just might be sailing before the summer goes away. The designer, therefore, has to dial-up the best possible combination of possible elements that will fit the original design brief. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois).
The worst thing you can do to wooden planking is push against it hard in localized areas, like bunks or supports. I've repaired and condemned quite a few boats, because they were stored on a poorly fitted trailer and the planking got distorted. No pads or bunks to paint around, just the bottom of the keel, which can be handled by jacking on launch day. Others are welcome to use my idea, for I may never get to build it, for all the other projects I have going. Doonan’s design incorporates a custom V configurement at the rear of the top deck, and in the V’d center section of the trailer.
As for not reading all the posts on the thread, I did,(speed read) and as commonly happens some points and photos are missed.(115photos??) This does not excuse your sarcastiuc reply enhansed with faces in return.
My interest is motorsailers.Thus I would have not viewed your photos but your thread heading caugh my eye because I have almost completed a similar design for a customer from California. Launching should be a relatively painless experience with a mast hoisting and rudder attachment, the major chores. These builders would have local waters, or mast-up storage, where they can leave their boats without the need to hit the road as frequently, if at all. In the case of the trailer beam Gato Especial, there was a conscious understanding of the sailing beam vs trailered utility possibilities, with one side of the coin being addressed as preferential; The trailer legal launch utility winning out in this design.
I have another 21' cruising cat just about completed with sliding hulls and an open bridgedeck as its solution envelope.
Never use rollers on planks either, again the same reason, point loading in a very small area, which will pop butt blocks, fasteners, clenches, etc.
The best setup I've devised, had two V's, one forward of a stub keel (much like yours) and one aft of it. The other favorite was camping with our 16-foot Chalet XL hard-sided folding camping trailer in the incredibly scenic and wild Chiricahua National Monument.
I started with a salvaged 1988 Party-Hut 28-foot tritoon and a broken 90-horsepower Yamaha outboard motor. Looking at the pics, I'm not seeing a standard toon boat, they appear to have been built for that task to me.
For European builders, the Gato can be reduced in beam to 2.55 meters to meet trailer width limits. I'm not sure how difficult it would be to trailer the boat in other countries, though it would be interesting to compile all that info. In the future, I'll probably find myself looking at a separate, cabin component cat with sliding beam hulls as a design challenge. The front wheels were parked on disks that were linked to the rudder, the drive wheels were on rollers. In this case the vessel is of course larger - stronger built to take sheltered ocean water conditions. That's because this is a single screw boat and the beds are on 24" centers (pretty much a standard). It runs parallel to the keel through the broadest section of the boat only, not stem to stern. As the boat was pulled out, she'd settle on the trailer, with the forward and aft V's centering things, as the trailer and boat came together. There are several travel trailers on boats in my neck of the woods, mostly by ozarkian engineering. This is where you want the bunks, because the keel can't hold up the boat in the aft potions of the hull. The other feature is the trailer will have electric brakes activated in addition to chain load binders,straps as backup and lock in wheel chaulks.
The skeg, shaft, strut and rudder prevent under keel support, so the next hard point that will not crush frames and planking are the engine bed stringers. The stands are home made and simply pivoting pads that let the bilge rest comfortably, without a hard edge pushing into the planking.
Once that comes into effect and it will, enertia then takes over as the prime enemy of binding failure. Any wheel movement then generates further stretch until the chain reaction finally causes something to fail. The chain reaction being both the trailer's inertia and trailer induced inertia on the vessel all triggered of course by wave action.
Chaulks help alot but unless they are equipped with a chaulk to deck lock in feature they too will succumb to movement. Basically it's a 100% backup system any two can fail and the remaining can buy time until a repair is made. In your case you can compare it to a load of palleted freight riding on a conveyer floor broken lose in air pocket turbulance flying conditions in a DC3.



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