Paddle Wheel Boat Plans Paddle Wheel Boat Plans There are a wide variety of ship design and with all features available may be extra the options are even greater. Location: Louisiana I have a small 14' fiberglass skiff that I would like to try something like that on.
Location: Ontario The big problem here is that a lawnmower engine has a vertical shaft, a boat propshaft is usually horizontal. Location: Louisiana I think Glen L has a conversion for a vertical shaft and an old outboard leg. In each case I think these applications used cog belts or rubber toothed belts like timing belts because they'll transmitt hundreds of horse power and are tolerant of line up error. The horizontal applications arranged the engine above the shaft and drove the shaft by and offset cog belt.
One design used the bottom end of an old outboard by cutting through the aluminum casting of the leg and tapping the face of the casting for a bearing that stablized the cut off vertical shaft.
I recall the designs were a few dollars each and were mailed from Maine or somewhere in the NE. One very interesting application was a centrifugal pump that was made by welding some sections of large diameter pipe to a set of round plates and included a means to drill out the plates and balance the entire impeller. Sounds like a fun project, shouldn't be too hard to rig up -I think the shaft log & seals for a conventional shaft arrangement would be the most complicated in a small boat. Originally Posted by boat Dose any one know a way of adapting a lawn mower motor in to an inboard motor This probably isn't what you meant but it's sort of an inboard and it did work. Originally Posted by tom kane Hey that is great,and you should see some of the modern concepts for high speed work. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Originally Posted by DCockey I was referring to the theortical maximum efficiency for a given slip, and the actual efficiency at the same slip. You can use the same formulation for a paddle wheel and get the same results, if you assume similar dependency for slip and the velocity produced by the wheel. Originally Posted by RayThackeray Erik, thank you for the comments, after a number of people recommending larger propellers I'm working seriously at putting on the biggest ones I can practically fit without too much down-angle on the shafts. Perhaps the experts can parse the importance (or lack of) at the shaft speeds you are considering.. Originally Posted by RayThackeray after a number of people recommending larger propellers I'm working seriously at putting on the biggest ones I can practically fit without too much down-angle on the shafts. Location: Milwaukee, WI I think all these calculations are missing a basic point.

For sailing boats (and other applications) there are well established max values for tip speed. Even a 36" propeller at 1100 rpm would not have bigger tip speed than what is used in many outboards with good efficiency.
Of course if you want to move away from normal yacht auxiliary powering practice you can adopt cavitating props etc but your low end grunt will suffer.
Location: Italy (Garda Lake) and Croatia (Istria) Graham, I am not saying that you're wrong, but Joakim is surely right in this case.
The fact is - for a fixed rpm operation, there is an optimum (in terms of efficiency) diameter even without taking into consideration the cavitation. Cavitation is not determined solely by tip speed, it is very much linked to propeller loading as well.
Thus at the same rpm cavitation becomes more of a problem at small diameters (and tip speeds) than large. In this case a much bigger diameter and tip speed could be used without cavitation problems that would be otherwise sensible (the best efficiency will be in the 18-22" range) unless rpm is changed.
Location: UK Oh well, it seems when I tried to answer a layman's question as simply as possible I opened up a whole new can of worms.
Location: Milwaukee, WI With the power available, cavitation is a moot point though. Location: Australia Clearly the OP is not too interested in the qualified opinions of those who would question the viability of this project. Location: Milwaukee, WI It is not an opinion, but solid engineering and good practice.
B-series data, you will find very good match for slip>50% and for slip~30% the error may be ~5% (the real open water efficiency will be lower).
Here are some efficiencies I calculated earlier in another thread about this same case: Prop calculators - is there a difference between electric and diesel drives? It is easily verifiable from propeller charts (either Kt-Kq or Bp-Delta) which have been made and are valid for non-cavitating props. At low loadings the blade angle of attack is very small and thus also the pressure coefficient is small and the pressure will not be that low. It does not matter where you start on the spiral as long as you continue to a logical conclusion using realistic inputs. When you increase the diameter you will increase the tip speed linearly and the pressure differences to the square.
There has not been a single post that I can recall, made by anyone with any suitable qualification that has indicated that this is anything other than an underpowered craft (at best) and quite possibly an unsafe one.

There are boat kits range from jumping kayak or canoe to larger boats by electricity sailing boats and motor cruisers also. I think 1-s is the more valid one and at high slips you will actually have efficiencies very close to that (without cavitation). If the shaft rpm is fixed, then there will be an optimum prop diameter, which is not necessarily the largest one you can fit.
But you are also increasing the area to the square and thus the pressure needed to make the thrust is proportional to the inverse square of the diameter. A single large item on your boat from a construction kit is the truth that you can often save a significant amount of money while including flexibility of design and style development and characteristics of your ship Paddle Wheel Boat Plans .
As has been noted by both me and Joakim in this thread: Prop calculators - is there a difference between electric and diesel drives? But opinions that this vessel is underpowered are just that - opinions, and not all opinions received agree with your assessment. This formulation comes from basic momentum theory for propulsion, which does not consider slip. However, this is a technical forum to examine the best possible approach to the propellers for this application, there is a different thread where you can air your more general opinions. But if you make an assumption between slip and velocity increase caused by a propeller, you get something similar. Larger than that will require reduced rpms, and it is still not clear if your propulsion plant allows it or not.
Such a propeller would be very inefficient even without cavitation (I don't think it would even cavitate at such a low loading). The purchase price of a kit to build a boat can range from a few hundred dollars a small kit for hundreds and a countless dollars and for larger ships or with specialized or advanced components or drawings.
Unfortunately many people might not have the necessary space to the dealer and build a boat.
Some of the typical components accessible in a boat kit include wood epoxy resin solid wood plywood fiberglass PVC .

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