Doesn't mean that the boat's gotta be a ketch or cutter, just that's my personal preference. Originally Posted by SAQuestor BTW, I'm not familiar with the Ranger - designed for blue water work? Location: Eustis, FL Very astute observation Phil, if on a 5 year old thread, anything else, maybe not quite so obvious? Location: MD My Rhodes Bounty II must qualify as well as the Pearson Invicta and the Alberg 37 though none of these are cutters or ketches. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I've always heard theat Carolina Skiffs ride well compared to other boats of the same size, but it's hard to reason why with their bow design and lack of V. Location: Western NY Transom Core Material I am restoring an 84 Cobalt 18DV with Merc sterndrive. I plan to keep this boat for a long, long, time, and I never want to do this particular repair again. Location: Eustis, FL Cabinet grade ply is of very good construction, but the questions are what adhesive is used for the layup and how rot resistant are the lumbers used in the layup. Sapele, an African species of mahogany with a wider grain, works and finishes well, also has good rot resistance. Okoume, is another African species (not mahogany) with lighter weight and slightly less costly, but with lower rot resistance. Philippine mahogany, this includes the lauans which have low rot resistance and the meranti species, which has excellent rot resistance.


Douglas fur and western larch, these are the least costly of the bunch, what MDO is made from and have reasonable rot resistance, though will check and require filling and sheathing to slow down this process. Location: The Netherlands Transom Repair Before the epoxy-era, that began at the late '80s to become popular and accepted among leisure craft builders, it was common practice to use marine grade plywood as core material in FRP constructions. So it can take 20 years ore more, before the internal decay becomes visible and that the polyester skin peels from the underlying plywood. Now the repair: to take the whole transom out is a hell of a job, as the whole repaire will be - depending how you look at it. To remount the Z-Drive unit you need to have provided the transom with sufficient body to take up the forces that are unloaded on that part of your boat.
Probably I will forget here and there a few things but you might have also response from other members who might have better proposals, more suitable to your needs. Location: Western NY Thanks Thanks for all the tech info on the plywood and foam. I was studying that pic you posted and thought - maybe he's long lining, but then with the multiple rods on the side, I thought no way, that would cause all sorts of tangles. If so, a wide heavy deep V hull with less boat out of the water for trolling and not getting blown around by wind would be a must. I have seen Marine grade and MDO plywood recommended and cheap housing grade plywood discouraged, but what about the cabinet grade hardwood plywood like birch ($43 at Home Depot)? Is there another "right" way to do this using a material that is unaffected by water and rot? The adhesive must be waterproof and the lumber in the layers should have known rot resistance qualities.


Most cabinet grades have a paper thin outer layer and inconsistent quality inner layers, making them un suitable for exterior use in the marine environment. You'll look for panels with no voids, no over lapping layers, even layer spacing and a good rot resistant species used throughout the panel. Not knowing (at that time) that very slowly, the glass strands in the composite transferred moisture and oxygene. Fiberglass bonds beautifully on wood using polyester resin, but it will not last eternally. Do you have all facilities at hand, or are you just a diy - it depends mostly on your skill.
Using a soft pvc core without sufficient strength to take up the loadforces from the engine etc. It may not display this or other websites correctly.You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Also, an open plan such as a walleye boat with seat posts set up in the back for trolling out of the back of the boat. Most don't have enough layers of sufficiently dense wood to work well there and you'll have to sand off the rosin face(s) to get the wood to wood bond needed for the laminate. In your case I would take out the transom, as you may rest assured that the decay of the plywood is pretty wide spread around the opening of the Z-Drive.



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