Inspired by another thread here, I was wondering what we can (or already have) design for a quality home-built boat trailer? I've never read the Glen-L book on building wood-frame trailers, and am not too sure how the DMV would like that, but am willing to consider all or partial wood frame elements. Not willing to consider torsion axles, or suspension systems rated for 1000+lbs, both of which seem to be the only lightweight ones readily available from Northern Tool and other major retailers. I understand that commercial trailers exist with all or most of these elements, but prices are usually well over $1200 for the Trailex aluminum models with spare tire, winch stand and winch. If the main spar were made of wood, hollow, thru bolted and glued and with a solid telescoping inner spar it would facilitate launching at shallow launches.
It wouldn't be remotely strong enough to handle the weight and forces of trailering unless it was massively thick! As for something like the Yakima trailer, that would be great if we could source the parts separately. My Aeroflow trailer has torsion suspension, and is scary to tow empty as it will do repeated 3' vertical hops on bad freeway sections. Remember, once you get the trailer license and title you can modify or upgrade it virtually anyway you want with no hassle from the authorities. Save them to your computer if you want copies, as things tend to come and go when I need space on the website. We see a couple of those gorgeous light aluminum trailers with motorcycle wheels every year at the big canoe shows, but a couple grand for a little trailer is far more than I'd ever spend on one. I've converted two of these for small boat trailers, using a long steel tube for an extended tongue and wooden homemade bunks. He mentioned a swinging or removable tongue, which some prefer because it shortens the whole package, making it easier to store. I used a Harbor Freight trailer for several years, but even though I always rinsed it after each launch into salt water, it eventually rusted into uselessness. Boat wraps build your name recognition, promote your sponsor, and provide added protection to your boat. Let FML Design take the helm of your new Boat vinyl wrap, guarenteed to turn heads throughout the marina and seaways. From updating your existing boat graphics to giving your marine vehicle a new lease on life to a crazy "out-there" design, we can do it!! Your boat trailer is an important part of your investment.  If you are unable to house your trailer out of the elements when your boat is in the water, Black Dog Design can manufacture custom covers to protect it.
Black Dog Design is located near beautiful Lake Ouachita, Arkansas, about 25 miles west of Hot Springs, AR, at the intersection of Highway 270 and Mountain Harbor Road.
So, if after you have drawn the layout, and got a very good handle on the weights (can't do anything without this), you can 'balance' your boat. Once you have done this, you will be in a much better position to select a hull form and its ability to satisfy your whole SOR. Will you have a shore supply outlet?..if so, have you considered a portable IH cooker, safer! Location: Ontario I wish, Fanie I think I'm a little more pragmatic, but taking my goals to the extreme, that's what you'd end up with! Cargo - this boat might get pressed into service for hauling supplies in at remote lakes now and then. The vaka and ama CBs were chosen based on Godzilla optimizations for a minimum-drag shape in the speed range I'm looking at (16 to 20 knots top end).
I'm not 100% up on the seakeeping of Tri's (its been a while since i looked into this), but on a cat, the centre of pitch (for motions) is generally at the transom. The book was too thick for my scanner and was hard to 'press it down', so it is not very clear, sorry about that.
Location: Ontario Updates OK, so here's the latest on my (not-so-) little trailer cruiser project. The helm is offset slightly to starboard, with wheel steering for the outboard and a nav desk to starboard. Although rather lightly built in comparison to craft intended for offshore use, this structure is still quite substantial compared to many other small multihulls. The windage probably needs to be considered in the overall drag calculation given some of the poorly shaped exposures you have.
Nav Lights, i assume this is some kind of foldable mast with the lights as per colregs, since you're in the shipping lanes.
Yes, I agree that windage could be a significant contributor to the overall resistance at higher speeds. Structure- I'm trying to get my hands on a good multihull scantling guide; I'm told ISO 12215 includes some information I might find useful. Foldable mast for lights, antenna, etc- Good idea, I think this might work well integrated into the centre pillar of the windshield.
Fuel- Looking at about 100 L capacity, maybe a bit more, the intent is to be able to do the Rideau (~200km) without having to fill up with uber-expensive marina gas along the way.
LCG is somewhere between 350-360 cm forward of the transom including various combinations of crew, gear, etc.


I also consider the situation where you are at design cruise and also need to push into a stiff breeze. Location: Japan I guess you could just remove the whole deckhouse, oh and then just remove the hull sides poking above the waterline to really minimise windage. Not too sure about ISO 12215, but if you want a quick rough and ready solution DNVs multihull rules are very quick and simple for global loads. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: SF bay thanks, Ron, did you get the bit about how that mast is also the trailer frame?
Or since I figure the trailer will have total of 6 wheels, be able to reuse the wheels and attach to hull and use power from tow vehicle with belts or chain so the whole boat could crawl out of the water as a unit. Edit to add--looks like they are there on closer inspection--they just fold down at anchor. Originally Posted by viking north Ron as a mono hull builder I seldom venture into other marine vessel styles mainly because like many on the forum I have limited time so concentrade on where we can learn and have input.
I've got electric brakes on my trailer, but they are not powered up while on the boat or when winching it off.
On my boat, all three pontoons (logs) have 3 separate chambers separated by an aluminum bulkhead, so I've got 9 chambers total. I've got the lifeboat - errrrr, kayak - always at rope's length already deployed and ready for a fast evacuation. Originally Posted by dstgean No dog in this fight, but the third or fourth pic in your excellent photo essay includes shots prior to adding the skirts.
Dan Yep, exactly - they fold down when anchored - or if you want they can also be deployed when underway as long as there's no chop. We had Martinis and partied late into the night - they were from California and in the music biz. Then again, I've got about $20K (plus a lot of sweat equity) involved versus $2.5M - so I'll just have to put up with my physical inadequacies. Originally Posted by RonKMiller Yep, exactly - they fold down when anchored - or if you want they can also be deployed when underway as long as there's no chop. With the Jayco camper on top it floats in a couple of inches of water allowing a stepping distance on shore lines.
The camper can be winched on and off barge at a recluse setting and the barge could be used as a large boating platform to quickly explore distance areas of the locations economically or a jetty. Location: Thailand I just made a edit on the above to two 15 hp four stroke Johnson outboard motors incase some read 25 hp beforehand. To date my boat has been inspected by the Coast Guard and received two yearly safety inspections in a row.
I think if they would take the time and effort to actually build something, (like you and me) instead of being so cavalier with their negative comments I might be a bit more tolerant. The simple fact is that it has now been on several different bodies of water - including cruising the California coast line (although close enough to swim to shore). Originally Posted by myark This is another version of a pop up camper on top of a barge platform I invented 17 years ago.It has two 15 hp four stroke Johnson outboard motors and will plan with a Jayco camper on top. You can use the link above to see the Myark folding trailer barge with campervan on lake lake Waikaremoana, map below.
The other Myark barge is self trailer landing barge I designed and manufactured that has removable torsions suspension and wheels. Tug boat propulsion » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Folding T-Top? Location: CT Trailer Modifications I need help figuring out what parts I need to buy for my boat trailer. The cross member for the front of the mud flaps looks fairly meaty - a suitable piece of wood or aluminium box could be attached at the front between the 2 rails and depending on the angle required above, to the face or below that mudflap crossmember. Location: Eustis, FL I've just modified a trailer like that for two additional keel rollers, both required a cross brace.
Through bolt the trailer frame where necessary, then mount the trailer roller brackets, which can also be home made.
Location: Milwaukee, WI For a small boat like that the 2X4 is enough to hold the roller. Writer needs to identify this 1939 wooden boat » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Blaxell Surfrider - trailer or no trailer? Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers.
To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions.
It's a superb trailer and nothing using leaf springs will ever even be remotely close when it comes to a smooth, quiet ride. Mine is very hefty, but a guy who built a Slider sister ship found a johnboat trailer that was narrow enough that the hulls sit outside the wheels, so that he can use a much shallower ramp than I can.
The reason why i say this is because it shall give you an idea of the true space (it shall assist in hull form selection), plus, you will be be able to get to grips with a weight estimate too.


The problem with asking for advise on a forum is to know how and where to separate the wheat from the chaff. I can't imagine that the tri is that much different without doing some further research (we did some more than 10 years ago, built a 7m manned model, was fun). If you would like some advice on the connections and load paths and loadings in general, just ask. I was not the only one that presented this same idea as per my apology to a former posted on the same idea.
For example i seldom partake in threads on racing sail boats - powerboats- and almost never multihulls. They are simple to make if you can work metal, other wise you'll need to have them fabricated. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois). It would be nice to have a very lightweight trailer for a very lightweight (say 350 pound) boat, but stock hardware tends to be heavy.
FML Design uses only the best quality films and printers on the market and we pride ourselves on top of the line installation techniques and methods. Weight estimate being the most critical and you cannot proceed without it being done in some detail, with about a 10% margin added.
As such the location of the LCG is going critical, BUT you need to ascertain whether it is 20% aft or 20 fwd% of midships! Since invariably there is a lot of chaff and its speaks louder than the wheat, owing to 'numbers'. You wont get the exact shape, nor exact weight, the laminate may be too thick in places, or not 100% etc. That is to say the leg of the Y is in the water, for minimal resistance, and the buoyancy you need in the haunch of the Y is above water and used as and when needed? As for not reading all the posts on the thread, I did,(speed read) and as commonly happens some points and photos are missed.(115photos??) This does not excuse your sarcastiuc reply enhansed with faces in return.
My interest is motorsailers.Thus I would have not viewed your photos but your thread heading caugh my eye because I have almost completed a similar design for a customer from California.
Maybe what we're really searching for is very economical, lightweight but durable rolling parts. Petrol & salts will dimish the integrity of the boat vinyl wrap film so it is a good idea to clean it regularly and take special care around fuels and other chemicals.
As such, it would appear on first inspection that this is not unlike that of a cat, hence the further aft the better for your accommodation, not the CoB.
Cut and bend perpendicular the lower portion of the ends of the angle so you create a flat on each end that will be drilled for mounting bolts. The Yakima Rack and Roll weighs 150 pounds and only carries 250 pounds and is ridiculously high in price.. Boat wraps require special attention below the gunwale (top of the side edge)and along the bow (front end). In this case the vessel is of course larger - stronger built to take sheltered ocean water conditions.
The cross members towards the rear are not full box beams either, so U-bolts will not work there. Back when I used to sell them, the capacity on most of the Holsclaws in that size range was 500-600 lbs. If water penetrates the boat wrap it will weaken the adhesive and if not addressed quickly, destroy a large portion of the boat vinyl wrap. The other feature is the trailer will have electric brakes activated in addition to chain load binders,straps as backup and lock in wheel chaulks. Once that comes into effect and it will, enertia then takes over as the prime enemy of binding failure. Any wheel movement then generates further stretch until the chain reaction finally causes something to fail.
The chain reaction being both the trailer's inertia and trailer induced inertia on the vessel all triggered of course by wave action.
Chaulks help alot but unless they are equipped with a chaulk to deck lock in feature they too will succumb to movement. Basically it's a 100% backup system any two can fail and the remaining can buy time until a repair is made.
In your case you can compare it to a load of palleted freight riding on a conveyer floor broken lose in air pocket turbulance flying conditions in a DC3.



Aluminum boat repair shops 44111
Classic day boats for sale uk ebay