Location: Denmark I can't help you (I don't have those kind of skills), but those thingies look like quite a lot of fun. Ok here is the deal, I like to see kids doing this sort of thing and I'm willing to help you out for free, however, this is your project and you're going to do all the work. Location: Brisbane How much are you allowed to modify the motor, I can see more improvements in the motor than the hull, they seem to have already sorted that out. Location: Tasmania,Australia Holding the long motor handle looks like bother.
I think i read that at 10mph, bikes use 50% of the energy pushing air aside, so at 15+ mph, getting a nice smooth airflow ought to help a lot. I might look at what can be done to make the boat more efficient in different conditions as the course moves from smooth to rough. For example, if outriggers are allowed the best way to go is probably to maximize the hull's waterline length and minimize waterline beam. Location: Gulf Coast USA First you said you want the fastest boat, but now you you don't want the fastest boat, instead you only want the fastest MONOHULL boat.
Perhaps you will take some time to write a clear and accurate list of all the requirements and limitations we should be considering, then post it here. Location: maryland I'll be down there in a couple weeks for the Newport-Bermuda race.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Australia Designing a trailer sail boat I am considering designing and building a small sail boat that can be transported by trailer. I want to build a boat that is between 26 and 28 foot (max 8.2 foot wide)with partial water balast and lead swing keel to make transport lighter.
The main purpose of the boat is for safe family sailing with a strong emphasis on utilisation of space, camping and ruggedness.
Personally, I recommend the Farrier boats - they are arguably the finest trailer sailers ever designed.
If the object is to have a trailerable boat to sail, but not necessarily to build, then the best way is to buy a used production mulithull. With regard to cost, these boats are on the flat part of the depreciation curve and hold their value really well. Interior space is comparable to a monohull due to the flared topsides, but the storage space in the main hull is minimal.
Performance is roughly along the lines of a racer-cruiser monohull in the 40 - 50 ft range. Location: Eustis, FL Bioptica, there are many trailer born designs available, ranging from the sturdiest of small passage makers to all out race machines. In spite of what Doug had to say about centerboard pendants and pivot pins, they are a well proven time tested way of reducing draft and easing trailerability.
A dagger board really only belongs on a craft small enough to push off whatever you've run aground on. I'd think 'glass or one off wood construction would be the most practical and cost effective in this class of pocket yacht, when compared to aluminum.
I'd also reconsider the water ballasting requirement, unless you intend to build to a rule or get a rating and go racing.
Multihulls are an option and they offer a number of advantages, but like everything else there are the disadvantages too.
In the end, you could consider one of the stock plans sets available from the world's designers. Originally Posted by tspeer I thought the Dragonfly was only available as a production boat - I didn't know the Dragonfly was available as a homebuilt boat (that was the original question). My first suggestion to people wanting a boat in this size is to look at the second hand market as you may well get want you want for a lot less than building your own.
Location: Kotka, Finland Designing Origami Boat in Rhino This thread is started to make clear that there is nothing mystic in designing origami boats.

At first I design a decent hull shape (I use mainly 3 x 3 point surfaces and operate with point weigths and centerline cutting to tuning the hull). Thirdly I unroll the planks, orient them below topside plank and cut the others at the middle. Location: Australia That's cool but I have to wonder what the advantages of origami boats are in practice. For the past 80 years, there has been a type of boat developed in the Northwest called a Halibut Schooner. Going up a few steps into the pilothouse, the helm is on the centerline and has a real ship’s wheel. You should note that the cabin roof extends clear to the edge of the boat in the pilothouse area, and with port and starboard sliding doors and with an aft hinged door, all deck areas of the boat can be accessed with ease. There is plenty of deck space for carrying small rowing skiffs and a proper hard bottomed dingy for exploring an anchorage. The Fairhaven Flyer is a 20 foot expedition rowing dory, designed with the signature Devlin strength, durability, and flexibility.
For this effort, I wanted to push the limits of lightweight, with the intention of still being able to use-and-abuse her (lovingly). If an outrigger is allowed, fit one, you'll be able to make your main hull far more efficient. You say your dad has a lot of outboards and a lot of knowledge, could any of the outboards be modified to swing a bigger more efficient prop?
I would assume you're using the "traditional"(and correct imho) definition to mean a ballasted keel that swings fore and aft like a centerboard? The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects. You've voiced interests in healthy construction, good storage space and the ability to camp cruise or over night her if you wise. The pendant doesn't have to be in the water and most good designs will last many years before renewal is necessary, the rig will have had it's wire replaced, maybe more then once before this is needed.
It seems to me that in some ways they could be as difficult to build or even more difficult, compared to just making a chine hull out of seperate panels. People do seem to be rather taken with the idea of origami boats though and I was wondering if it had any advantages over other methods of construction. Choice of method - especially for the home builder - is not just a matter of logical decisions. These boats are evolved from the time when sailing schooners used to be common for commercial cod and Halibut fishing in the waters between Alaska and the mainland US. With the dinette and settee to the port side and galley to starboard, everything is right at hand and it will be easy to communicate with crew. The Kokanee is dry stacked for its exhaust and with a slow turning and heavy John Deere diesel engine of 145 horses, it will be quiet and comfortable. This boat will have the capability to cruise to just about any waters that your imagination can take you and will do so with enough crew to be comfortable, safe and handy. She can be rowed either solo or double and converts from one one configuration to another quickly and easily. She has the stable sea-worthy qualities inherent in the dory, along with the strength-to-weight capabilities, ease of maintenance and cost effectiveness of stitch-and-glue construction. With the camping kit of the average backpacker, this cruiser can cook, eat, sleep and sail in fine fashion. Please do not use anything on this site without proper attribution and links to the source material. The hulls look good in the water, but I think you could make them more aerodydynamic - for better airflow.
This plays out the racers as most don't have a lot of room in them and are on the light side in terms of the beating they'll take. The guy I regularly race with has a early 70's Catalina 22 with the original pendant holding on to the 900 or so pound centerboard, and it does go in (the pendant) the water.

This would be a good sized trailer boat at 28' but quite do-able with an average pickup or SUV and tandem trailer.
The unfolding operation has become quite refined in this last generation, so this doesn't have to be a draw back. You'll find the free and cheap plans are dated (generally) and possibly lacking in one or more of your requirements. Their shape, dimensions and coefficients are contollable if you just check the hydrostatics before developing plates.
One may choose origami because one likes the way and feeling of bending a steel plate to itself.
Those waters were renown for being rough and treacherous and the type of boat that evolved was tough, heavily constructed and extraordinarily seaworthy. I would suggest using a bow thruster on this boat to aid in dockside maneuvering and with a balanced rudder and single screw, the Kokanee will put lots of sea miles below her keel, smoothly and comfortably. I can just see her pulling into some quiet cove in Southeast Alaska, dropping the hook for the evening and after a brisk pull to the shore in the skiff. In the dory tradition, she likes to sail on her ear, scary to some, exhilarating to others. Unless you insist on dragging her behind a Toyota Celica or intend to win races, water ballasting is more trouble then it's worth in a cruiser. With wine most of its functionality is too unstable to be useful, but if you start with any hull with the correct number of chines, rename it to default.hul, and do saving by exiting, and answering yes to the save question, it is possible to design any hullform. Or one may choose a frame first method because one likes the rithm and symmetry of erected frames.
The Kokanee is a small, but very able, version of this type and the result is a comfortable boat with good living room in her and a double cabin configuration for cruising with friends when that occasion rises.
The dory hull style excels at rowing performance and seaworthiness under a variety of load conditions. Keep in mind that though initial stability is low, final stability is high, as exemplified by the use of the dory for fishing in rough waters throughout history. The tramp is fine, in nice weather, and provides a lot of options not open to mono hull designs.
One that suits you and your needs perfectly, possibly drawn around your building skills, certainly your budget. The main features that I like about this boat are the dinette and galley up in the pilothouse configuration. With a bit of customization, she can be set up for rugged expedition work, and in fact has carried Dale McKinnon on her solo run of the Northwest Passage. We have chosen the spritsail cat-ketch rig with its low center of effort to keep the heel to a minimum. This would be the best value for the money, though quite a bit more then a set of 30 year old stock plans from a catalog store. Sea Swift was designed with these uses in mind, whether day-sailing or cruising, she is a well behaved, responsive boat.
This would be the least cost effective way of getting it done and would take the most amount of time. In the evening, this will be a very romantic and cozy cabin to retreat to after the day’s activities, and with its proper lighting and fine woodwork, the cabin will be a favorite retreat. This would entail what would amount to an engineering degree (without the required English lit, or civic studies) and the experience to do it right.
This also makes the aluminum strip stand proud of the hull, helping to protect her when dragging out of the water.

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