Location: petaluma Its a good question - when does a really wide gunwale become an out rigger ? On the Aero - beyond short and fat you will have to get the opinion of one of the senior members. On the sliding seat boats one oarlock is higher than the other but not much - maybe half an inch?.
Originally Posted by sailing canoe As far as overlapping hands go - it is just not a big deal. Location: middlebury, vt If it's not a big overlap it only comes into play in the return when the oars are parallel to the water. Location: Australia Sure, but in that case you're talking about oars that have little or no overlap on the pull, which is what I said I preferred anyway.
Location: Essex UK Most fine boats use asymetrical height adjustment on the gates the pivot pin being quite a bit longer than the gate, its adjusted by adding or moving a stack of spacer washers, Also snap in height adjusters.
The only ones i have seen over here were made of bronze & were too light to be of any real use without bending. On a traditional boat being able to unship the oars easily & quickly when coming alongside is an advantage.
Location: Australia I'd agree with this for sliding seat boats, where the oarlocks are so far outboard that you can't really reach them. Re the other offset square types: they never seem to be fixed post, and as a result lose the pitch control as soon as they wear a bit. The main reason for using square backed gates is if your are using D sectioned oars like most secondhand racing sculls are, you get a real positive action on feathering, round loom oars no point. Location: Australia Well yes, they are good for feathering, but even when you aren't feathering the accurate pitch control* is a real bonus on a narrow boat. Now if someone would mold an oarlock out of gunmetal or whatever.more or less the same as the plastic one used by skinny boats, there would be no need for the top brace. I use their bronze folding outriggers and open locks on my Herreshoff 17 with 8' 9" spoon blade oars with D shaped looms.
Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa back to oar on gunnel That is Jon aborn in the foreground in the picture taken at the essex River Racr in 2010. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Location: petaluma Fast row boat shapes Yes that john Brooks boat is pretty . So how much boat do you have to have in the water for it to count as boat waterline length? Location: French Guyana I have spent several days reading this whole thread and feel i should contribute already.
I feel very fortunate to have had my father as a rowing coach, as he was part of the winning team in Norway roundabout 1938.
So, as long as possible and as narrow as possible, without feeling like you're going to capsize. Also on technique for one man boats; If the wavelength allows it, one must strive to take advantage of each wave's orbital velocity. Location: French Guyana Gripe is an ancient british term to describe how well the forefoot resisted lateral motion.
I would be a bit cautious about mixing sail and oars though as these represent conflicting design requirements. Location: Portland, ME What Tcubed is referring to is that to try and sail a boat like Drake to windward is pretty difficult and not effective. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa rudder We've looked at rudders but are wary of the extra wetted surface.
Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa fine lines aft Clint, you mentioned the fine lines Drake has aft. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa gripe Tcubed has explined the idea of gripe, and it is easily understood, and to me, difficult to attain. So if i were to make it again, i would keep everything the same except shave a bit under the bow off, basically make the keel curve up a bit towards the bow.
And, unfortunately this is the only surviving photo i have of it, otherwise i would show them too.
What I'm starting to get is that there's a conflict between ideal efficiency (long oars, wide span), and practical constraints which limit oar length for a given design of the kind we're discussing. As well, and I need to look into this, having an outrigger which can be adjusted for horizontal angle, oarlock angle, and span seems highly desirable.
There will be a number of factor to consider for determining the rigging dimensions for your boat. 2 - The height of the rig above the waterline may have some effect on the oar length and rigging. 3 - Once you have the oar length that fits the boat height you will need to determine the desired loading or gearing. Originally Posted by DickT Check out Oars for Pleasure Rowing by Robert Steever available (still, I hope) from Mystic Seaport. I'm really looking for reassurance that I’m getting the highest possible efficiency out of oars and rig.
However, I'm wary that expertise about competition rowing might skew my boat or rowing rig design away from a more civilian application. Well, if I have wider than usual spread, and I set up the seat for comfort, catch angle is likely to be reduced, so this suggests a longer oar as well. I think it's possible all you stud iron-butt gunwale-class guys have driven the sliding seat rowers off this thread. On the other hand some rowers from both disciplines are often dismissive to the point of rudeness about the other, its kind of ironic that high performance guys into sliding seats can sometimes be this way & yet the sliding rigger that represented a real step forward in technology got banned! Location: Portland, ME I think the best approach for open water rowing is exactly what Nordvind suggests, seat of the pants.
He is very approachable, and all his studies and tests are reported, and his focus is on sliding seat , both sweep oar and sculls. Rachel quarrels rowing service, though predominantly fine boat orientated it has links to all over the place including a lot of technical & physiological stuff I hope you don't mean me, I'm not dismissive toward anyone on this list.
I was pretty shocked to read about them banning the sliding rigger in the early 80's as well. The other x-factor is whether modern high performance blades will take more concentration than I want to spend to drop into the water.
Originally Posted by dcnblues I was pretty shocked to read about them banning the sliding rigger in the early 80's as well. Similar arguments apply to, for example, the use of fairings on the front of paddling boats, or to better designs for the discus. Location: San Francisco Leo, yes, I haven't had time to really go through it, but I will, and am very grateful for your sending it [Dr Lazauskas has copyright issues that prevent him (or me) from posting the paper he mentions to the list, but for my individual use, it's not a problem]. I guess I misspoke in that, regardless of Olympic tradition, I'm surprised that the FISA 'World Rowing Championships' limit the technology at all.
Originally Posted by dcnblues I guess I misspoke in that, regardless of Olympic tradition, I'm surprised that the FISA 'World Rowing Championships' limit the technology at all.
I agree that there should be some unlimited competitions, but whether FISA should be involved is another matter. There are many other competitions that cater for human-powered vessels of all shapes and sizes. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa cruising I keep coming away confused by dcnblues. Location: middlebury, vt Sliding vs Fixed Dick, thanks as well, and I also like your boat.
I'm not sure what you mean by my resources(I bought the erg used for$100) but I'm not flush, and nice lightweight racing oars would cost many times more than I have invested in materials.
We should remember that the weight of the oars while very important, should be considered in relation to where that weight is. Just to keep the record straight , I am 67 this year and for the past 4 years have been rowing a skinny sliding seat , but am looking to build a more friendly (stable) boat this year, I kinda fancy something like and old American wherry of 190something. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa fast rowboat update molded third major panel of the new boat last weekend. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa fast rowboat update We intend to get it in the water to see where she really floats.
Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa fast rowboat update Charmc, this boat in the photos is more based on a Scandanavian Faering. Making the forefoot shallower and adding some rocker will make it more like the original design; sometimes the old designs are pretty good. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa Open water Rowing to find out what we're doing up here in New England, Google Blackburn Challange and check ouy the race results. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa race times in the 2001 Blackburn we were third with a time of 3hrs 48 min 29 sec, 29 seconds behind second. I had a recreational boat I built myself with a 23" waterline beam and that was fine, but I was sitting quite a bit lower than you will be. My idea, if you ever want to build another boat, would be to go at least 20 feet waterline length and around 30" waterline beam. Hey I noticed in another thread you were asking about moving the maximum beam aft of midships. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa waterline beam Melong, we won't be able to test float the boat until about September. Location: Australia Ok, if you're into rough water racing check these guys out. I then had a look to see what Godzilla would produce for similar hull constrints but optimised to do 6 knots. If my modelling is close then you should find your existing boat moves very easily up to 4.5 knots then the wave resistance starts to kick in.
I have seen foam used as gross fairing to dramatically change hull shape so this could be an option rather than total rebuild. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa ch-ch-ch changin Well, we moved my stretcher forward 3 inches, big improvement.
Location: petaluma Nvc Good see you are still fighting the good fight.
Paul Gartside, my design teacher and hero, said that he STILL gets nervous when he sees his own boats go in the water for the first time!
Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa race length The snow row is about the shortest race we do, and it is a killer!
Location: Portland, ME I thought it was the Francis Kinney designed dory out of an early edition of Skene's Elements of Yacht Design. Location: Portland, ME Drake gets turned over Photos of some final hull construction and then turnover yesterday. Location: Portland, ME Charlie, I will definitely work slowly up to the Blackburn, but I don't doubt my skills and determination but know enough to ramp up over the next couple years. Location: Western Australia When I built my guideboat I used bead and cove strips with titebond III, I began by clamping the strips but later switched to a staple gun which I found much quicker and more accurate.


Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Are the strips assembled to the mold dry and then the epoxy injected into the gaps? Location: Cape Town Hi , In th book Rip Strip and row,, the cosine wherrry use a simler fixing style,, I bult ona while back and use battery clapms to holg the strips to frames, . Originally Posted by KJL38 When I built my guideboat I used bead and cove strips with titebond III, I began by clamping the strips but later switched to a staple gun which I found much quicker and more accurate.
Location: Cape Town Gee this Thormasson design is really clude up,, this is about the best i've seen. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa bead and cove On bead and cove, what is the proper radius? I'm a little late to this party but have read (slogged!) my way through pretty much every post in the thread. I am a professional canoe builder of 20 years experience, most of that full time and specializing in building and repairing wood & canvas canoes, as well as making paddles. Location: 59 45 51 N 019 02 15 E A rowboat for pleasure, designed for testing new lines. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Thanks Douglas for an interesting post and nice images. As you will know, the traditional freighter canoes were designed for capacity, portaging, ability to survive and be repaired in white water and wilderness conditions, leading to buoyant ends and broad beams.
Narrower beam, finer entry and exit are all seen in profusion, and elimination of the overhanging sterns of the older fast passenger wherries, to save weight without reducing waterline length leads naturally to the Y-stern or transom, although uncommon in canoes. Location: Western Australia The rower paddler combination is also used with Adirondack Guideboats in races such as the 90 miler. Originally Posted by KJL38 The rower paddler combination is also used with Adirondack Guideboats in races such as the 90 miler. Location: Spokane, Wa Ramona, unless you are looking for the joy of building, there are a considerable number of used oars available on the aftermarket. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa dunk the girl in the back ground clearly was wondering what the hell we were doing and watched the whole process. Location: Essex UK I have read this thread with interest as i am a lover of good rowing boats and am in the process of designing one.
In 2003 a few of us started a rowing club up on the Thames estuary, it is now starting to take of, We have looked at all the other types of racing rowing boat used around the coast of the UK and they are a varied lot!
In order to get the club going i took two old simulated clinker fishing skiffs and rebuilt them, in the process they became 26ft long from 18 ft, last weekend they took part in the Great river race in London a 23 mile race and did quite well. Several things struck me when checking out the competition, many people insist on trying to make a racing rowboat compact ie short. The Welsh Celtic longboats and the Irish coastal rowing federation Celtic yawl, both boats are about 24-25ft long and pull four oars, they have a thriving racing scene and really move.
For us on the Thames we have come up with a specification and the new design is well advanced. I am using Delftship, which i have found relatively easy to get on with though at times i tear my hair out! Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa UK rowing congratulations for starting a new organization! Location: Essex UK Hi Jeff, The Great River race is unusual in that it is run on a pursuit basis all boats being handicapped according to a computer program that supposedly calculates every boat's optimum performance. The slow boats start first and there is over an hour spread until the fastest ones go, in an ideal world all boats should finish together but never do! One of the reasons for the ICRF Celtic yawl being built was that there were lots of different designs in Ireland with hardly any clubs running the same boat, the introduction of a good one design has rejuvenated the sport in Ireland with in the region of 50 boats being built in the last 5 years. On the East Coast the traditional coastal rowing scene is in its infancy but we figure a one design has to be the way to go, incidentally several clubs on the south coast have said a four oared boat offers the most value for bums on seats! Location: Essex UK Something else i just noticed that might be of use to anyone building a fast rowing boat. In the Great river race boats are not allowed to have sliding seats but i noticed the Welsh Celtic longboats have very narrow thwarts that appeared to be barely four inches wide, each rower sat on a very thick & comfy looking cushion. The rowers of Australian surf boats also slide on their seats but they dont worry about a cushion just wedge up their speedos and slide on the shiny grp seat, not so sure i would like to do that for long though! Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa non sliders We are wondering about setting up seats that can rock fore and aft a bit, as much to ease pain as to further speed.
The english used to use leather flaps or trousers, which they would grease along with greasing the thwart to allow some sliding. Secondly, footstretchers and clogs are a very good idea, and are not generally tight enough for you to be caught in them in the event of a capsize. Note that you have a ton of room to slide in and out of them, and can leave them as loose or tight as you feel comfortable. Originally Posted by keith66 I worked it out at an average of 6.4 knots, which would be about absolute maximum speed, this has also been checked by GPS on several occasions, the course we rowed on saturday is partly against the tide and partly with so i reckon we could disregard the tide, the water was calm.
Its not really noticeable , its just enough so that one hand nestles into ( onto ) the wrist of the other.. The club i used to be involved with uses modern gates & oars on what are very traditional shaped Gigs, the temptation for beginners in fact most of the members is to run the oar in across the boat when coming in at the end of a row (they never listen), very bad practice as it leaves the blades sticking out, great when you are coming into a jetty or tight place in a running tide. That's fine with a fixed pin, but with a pin that's cast as part of the oarlock the pitch control goes out the door as soon as there is a bit of wear, and this style tends to wear faster than fixed pins too. If we all went out and glued 2ft long 2x12 extensions to our bow and stern would we go faster? For example if going upwind, one tries to put the oar in the trough of the waves since there the water is flowing upwind. I tried to keep the ends of Drake balanced above DWl to try to keep her balanced in a cross breeze.
It was felt, quite reasonably, that the greater the gripe (in sailboats) the better it goes to windward. And of course the windage distribution must be considered as well for balance to be correct. The resulting compromise will result in non optimization in at least one of the modes of operation. And of course a small rudder is highly worthwhile to fine tune the balance at all wind angles. I downloaded an image compressing program and i think it worked to post this originally too large image.
But this is really true only if the other parameters such as spread and inboard are the same, and the extra length of oar is outboard of the oarlock. Having started a club from scratch 8 years ago i met a lot of people & made a lot of friends. 9' oars felt right to me when used on boats that called for 9' oars based on the SHaw and Tenney formula. Olympics are as much about tradition as about breaking records, so there is a lot of inertia in the rules. I doubt that a rowing shell with sliding riggers would be competitive against many of those beasts. It seems that you want to be able to use your boat in a variety of conditions and want to cruise at a pretty fast rate but not actually race. However, I think you are dividing the world into fixed seat and sliding seat as if they have little in common. I'm not his agent,BTW, but I found he answered questions I had and introduced concepts I didn't know existed. It appears to be a little deeper than I would have imagined but you have said that rough water is a reality. I reckon you have already agonized over the question of substantial additional wetted surface vs WL length advantage. Second place was Keith robinson in a stretche Gloucester Gull, first place was the Carter Brothers from New Hampshire rowing a 22' long Pistaqua Wherry which is a dory with one added chine down low. The boats are built to race from the beach, out through the shore break, around a course and back to the beach.
The shore break can be over twelve feet, depending on conditions, and yes they still race when it's like that. Newsweek had a story a few weeks ago about men in their 60's running better marathons than they did in their 50's. I was going to sugest scanning them and posting them here, but if they are already large fomat it would be a pity to lose the detail. No matter how tight the seams the epoxy still seeps in as it's designed to reach into the wood cells. Paddling and boatbuilding help me fight of the debilitating effects of old age and keep my brain and hands busy since retirement.
They were still fast, but largely because of their size and the power of large professional crews.
It makes a lot of sense, combining the increased power from rowing with the steering ability of a rear paddler. Ok, if you're after Norse names there's one I was thinking of using a while ago for a boat I built. Length about 27ft beam at gunwales 54" i am trying to keep the waterline beam down and the design has moderate rocker to assist fast turning in our congested waters.
It sounds as if you will be rowing larger boats with 4-6 oarsmen, similar to the Scilly Gigs. With a very strong crew our converted skiff did the 5 miles in 32 minutes to take line honours, this is as fast as she is ever likely to go being quite wide on the waterline but was a good day out! Search for Blackburn Challange online to find times in a 21 mile open ocean race, and I think, there are pictures of the huge variety of boats entered. As they rowed along the rowers apeared to be using this as a semi sliding seat in order to get a longer stroke their feet were strapped in and the cushion must roll back & forth over the narrow thwart.
This was the precursor to the sliding seat boats, and allowed the rower to use a longer oar, thus increasing his gearing and ability to put muscle mass to work. If you make them with leather uppers and laces, they are rather easy to slide in and out of, will help you make a strong return to the catch.
These are purpleheart uprights, yellow pine dowel stock for spreaders, teak clogs and leather uppers. But if you have your hands backwards and the blades are the same depth - the boat will be leaning one way or the other. Usually one hand just rests on top of the other and the pull is slightly one in front of the other. These modern gates work well but i still prefer open topped rowlocks in a boat to be used on tidal waters. Not such a worry if you happened (for whatever reason) to like that style of oarlock in a more accessible location. On our Nordfiord, the rear locks are on gunnel extrensions about 2" wide to even out the spread station to station. It doesn't seam long enough for a sliding seat but I'm not sure how the wide beam might help out in that department.
Likewise when going downwind, one aims to pull with the oar biting into the tops of the waves, which have water flowing downwind.


I also will have a dipping lugsail for her so I can use the wind when I am tired and need a break. The length of the oar, along with other variables like spread (distance from the centerline of the boat to the oarlock), blade size, blade type, inboard (distance from the handle end to the collar), catch angle, and so on, determines the gearing of the boat.
I doubt I'd be any faster with a sliding seat given that there's only so much gas in my tank. We ( I row with my brother as a double crew )are seriously considering a fabric decking to cover all but our rowing stations.
The boat under construction is classy looking but the model looks like the ultimate weapon to me. Wetted surface is one of those necessary evils; to get enough waterline length we have to suffer more wetted surface. Like one of the other guys said, match your prismatic to your average speed over the course. Apart from balance issues you also need to keep your beam at the forward rowing station of course.
They are no longer used for lifesaving as they have been superseded by outboard powered inflatables, which cause much less damage to the person being rescued. The basic shape is good but not having a sweep for directional stability means you'd need a skeg.
Will be a fun job and I should easily get rails on this weekend which means I'll be posting turnover shot soon.
Like NoEyeDear says, it might need a few extra forms, but it sounds like a nice, clean and fast way to do the job. Again, harking back to the traditional freighter, if one or more of the crew had been rowing it would have reduced their ability to fend off threats such as tree trunks and rocks and paddles were cheaper and more durable than oars. You are pretty far along in your design process, but a look at the gigs will help to confirm your design.
I'm a bit uneasy about being strapped into my boat by my feet and would not want any foot restaints. It would be a very traditional way to gain some extra pull, and you could definitely have some fun with it. On Maas boats there are usually some spacers so that you can adjust the oarlock height ( on the water ) to your personal preference and water conditions. The sail is auxilliary power for reaching, a beam reach at the highest I would predict and in a light to moderate wind. How in hell do you raise, lower and steer without removing your hands from the oars or taking your feet off the stretcher. As soon as there was decent wind the excessive gripe would manifest itself and it wanted to go upwind. Moving the collar toward the blade will shorten the outboard lever and lengthen the inboard lever which will change your leverage and lower your gearing.
I also shredded the MCLs and ACLs in both knees skiing 5 weeks ago and though I'm using the erg for rehab, I doubt there's sliding seat rowing in my future.
That cross wind factor is real, and creates a ton of resistance, anything to minimize it will help.
When we designed her, we put too much of a forefoot in and she tends to yaw badly in a steep following sea.
At that length two blokes can push it past hull speed and being fine sterned it will start to squat. Note the interior is designed for minimal floodable volume with a narrow self-draining well (via pumps over the side). I'm not sure if the race length is in stature or nautical miles, I should step it off on a chart with dividers some day just to be sure. But she looks fair and like a fast boat and I am pleased not to mentioned ready for building the interior. I'm trying to get my brother back into rowing again, he's been through hell with his health and the resulting depression that follows for a person who has always been a strong physical worker. Safe Walrus also suggested a design called a Flashboat, supposed to be very fast and to be rowed by 3. But the idea was to use the sail for fair winds after hours and days of rowing long distances. Straight upwind was a dream especially since the angle of entry put many razorblades i know to shame. At some point, we're going to rework the stem, put some rocker in the forward section of the bottom and reduce the forefoot. To do that, we really need to be able to hang on the oarss at the end of the pull to get our backs and weight into the pull.
In fact I was so uplifted by the turnover that I got going on refining the drawing of the next boat!
I see what you mean about the sheer being a bit less springy than you might have wanted, but it' a beauty, none the less.
He has a talent for boat design that comes naturally to him and I hope that he will get to work on a plan and lofting up a deign that we can build.
There is no daggerboard of any kind, and no stability drawn into the hull shape for sailing. The SOF frame has a very fine waterline aft, but will ( Ihope ) pick up bouyancy quickly as the stern tries to settle. Next weekend we'll mold up the 8' bow section again then set the two bow section and the mid-ship bottom panel on a strongback.
The manner that you carried it out of your shop indicates to me that it's a very light boat.
It seems to me, just from what I read here on the forum, that in Europe there is more of an emphasis on rules and class boats. I built a lot of displacement in the forward sections and minimized it in the aft sections.
We finished the Blackburn Challange, a 21 mile race around Rockport and Gloucester Massachusetts, in under 4 hours and were beat out of second place by 26 seconds when 2 power boats cut across our bow and forced us to alter course.
If my brother and I could find two dependable crew members we have thought of building a copy in glued lapstrake plywood. The design must be carefully created so that, at design speed, the boat tends to do neither and the rower sits in the optimal position for speed, neither far aft or far forward, but just right for perfect trim.
In fact, she is low enough that rowing in a sprint will probably not be very effective do to the very fine waterline aft. With a temporary oarlock set up, no real seat, no foot stretchers, and most importantly, no skeg, I had her at 5.3 knots with 8' oars. Pick your boat then set it up as right as you can, using all the PRACTICAL advise and forgetting all the high tech stuff meant to wring the last 1 one 100th of a knot out of a racing shell. You mentioned your desire to do the Blackburn, We,ve only done it once and that only after we'd been rowing for three or four years. Floorwork, Thwarts, flotation chambers gunwales, oarlock sockets and foot stretchers, not to mention a ton of sanding, fairing filling and painting. A rating system for the boats that considers length, beam, and weight seems to be a possibility.
In boats with more than one rower, the rowing stations must be as close together as possible without oars bumping backs to concentrate mass amidships for clean motion overe the waves. So, yes, be careful mixing sails and oars, but there is an entire class of sail-and-oar boats designed to do both. A couple of posts back, you were given some good advise: get out there and just enjoy rowing. We made the bottom too flat and found ourselves skating off sideways with any wind on the beam at all. Arriving at an acceptable formula may take time as we have very few organizations or clubs to spearhead the effort. That idea of balancing a boat so that it tracks well in all directions of wind is a difficult one to accomoplish. I’m also under the impression that a light, high-performance oar balanced with weights in the handles would be a pleasure to use (assuming weight is not a priority). Open water rowing in New England is an older persons sport although there are a lot of kids rowing gigs and a few younger guys in singles aqnd doubles. I don't mind having one handle a bit higher, but as soon as there's enough overlap to require pulling one handle ahead of the other I get pissed off. Our 19' Jersey skiff has a deep forefoot that resists the wind very well, but is a beast downwind when the stern comes up out of the water. It would be nice to have the resources and knowledge to do the proper design work and be confident that the boat would come out as planned and desired. After all, when you do your homework, study the course, know the water and innovate and improve your boat and equipment as well as train hard (or hardly) why should you want to be beat on time by a Sunday rower who doesn't do any of that? It is said, that Nate Herreshoff was an instinctive designer and no formal education and was able to build some of the most revered yachts in the history of sail.
To correct this, we will re shape the bottom to create a deeper VEE section and eliminate the need for the keel. Adding 2" of vee to the bottom will only add a very slight amount of wetted surface and should provide enough draft to keep us on course. I'm no Nate Herreshoff, but hope that I can still build each boat to be better than the last. Quick, VERY rough math indicates maybe 3 cubic feet of volime will be added to the hull which will float us higher and reduce waterline beam. In apearance, my new boat is very similar to John Brooks' Perigrine, but the transom is much smaller. At the bow, we're going to lift the first chine to create a far better entry and a little deeper fore foot.
These changes will add some bouyancy and float the hull a bit higher with a resulting narrower waterline. When we built the boat , we massaged almost all of the VEE out of the hull, and the entry wasn't so hot to begin with and we thought we were stuck with it. Our down and dirty methods of construction make it easy for us to take a sawzall to the hull and make changes. No gelcoat, only flat finish marine one part epoxy that can be sanded and repainted easily when repairs are needed. Right now the plan is to get the stations spot-on-right then put in some serious time rowing ourselves back into shape. I have to get to a large copy machine to copy Tad Roberts drawings, and when I get them, I'll mail them to anyone interested. It looks much like A Gloucester Gull; a favorite boat around here and a competitive single in the hands of a determined rower.
It's light enough that the two guys that row it can get it up there with only a little help.



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