Boston Previous Member   which is why I posted lines of the Downeast hull form, so folks could get a clear image of the type of hull commonly associated with a lobster boat. If your using a hull form of a traditional lobster boat people just might refer to is as such, specially if the top sides and sheer also resemble the layout.
Location: Flattop Islands Once again Boston you have posted a question that could be addressed by writing 3-4 books. From Massachusetts to Nova Scotia there are hundreds of versions of Downeast Lobster Boat hulls, some good , some bad, some indifferent. Understand that these boats are built to make money, everything else is just gravy, if they don't make money they are put out to pasture. Originally Posted by Tad Once again Boston you have posted a question that could be addressed by writing 3-4 books.
A stretched version of White Pine will produce a very easily driven hull, if the weight is kept in check.
I would imagine that often the boats are loaded down with pots only a few times a year, at least the inshore boats, the pots spending most of the time in the water.
I?m in the process of setting myself up for retirement and part of the plan is to upgrade my boat.
I would like to be able to go across to Tasmania (120 - 450 nm depending on landfall chosen) or coastal hop up to the Great Barrier Reef and on to Darwin (longest leg I'd do around 450 nm). I do like the looks of White Pine but think it may be a little slow (her max is listed as 15 knots and I'd like to have some in reserve). The production boats available in Australia do not ?tick all my boxes? so I am seriously looking at building here (importing is not very attractive at current exchange rates) and we have 3-4 competent wooden boat builders where I live so this seems like my best option. If she's kept simple (light) you could expect 14 knots with about 120 HP at the prop and 12 knots with 73 HP. I got some feed back on onother forum that the down east hull is stable to a degree but in heavier seas its stability drops off fast.
I like the way the beam narrows toward the stern and I also like the ?raised? floor and kitchen up in the main cabin area. The head could be a fraction bigger so the ?shower? has a bit more room (I?d use this for hanging wet gear as well). Finally, last night I became aware of some select grade Alaskan Yellow Cedar planks (6? x 1? & 10? x 1?) that are available in near me, so I am thinking that this would be a good timber for planking the boat as I?m told it is light, strong and easy to work. She has a round bilge clinker planked marine plywood hull with an open wheelhouse and a lower cabin with moderate flare forward and good size cockpit deck, strongly raked stem, transom stern and hinged timber slatted marlin platform.
There is a very long way between these educated guesses and the real life finished boat, but the expectations are roughly in the range of possible. The largest single weight in this boat will be the fuel load, so that capacity needs to be considered carefully. Location: Flattop Islands I'm also very jealous of the Yanmar engines available in Australia. A 60' hull that displaces 53,400 pounds will require 44 Hp at the prop for 9 knots in flat water, no bearing looses, alternator drag, no current, wind, waves, no bottom growth, no appendages, etc. Originally Posted by Tad I'm also very jealous of the Yanmar engines available in Australia. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. One of the things I really liked about the White Pine design was the access door from the helm.
Also in and around the engine compartment and workspace for servicing inspecting etc is important. Sorry about loading this up with questions but I do think you are getting close to a design outline that will suit what I want. The main problem regular boat users seem to encounter (apart from rough weather) is all the crap in the water fouling props.
The reason for keeping the deckhouse somewhat clear of furniture is to have big sole hatches for engine access. I assumed that when you got my email (sent to you on 18th May) you would have understood that I am serious and looking for a designer to develop plans for what I want.
Thats why if you read the diagonal planking thread you will see that I was seeking ways to stiffen the structure and lighten the finish while maintaining the skeleton rather than forsaking it as in a purely cold molded type hull. I increased the rib spacing, obviously the ribs themselves and went with double diagonal planking and a plywood sub floor under the deck rather than the original ceder carvel planking and deck.


I wanted to showcase the skeleton anyway, loosing some of the interior wall treatments and the heavy finish features in certain areas in order that the structural components could be strengthened for open water.
She will be powered by a 315hp Yanmar and we are expecting a cruise of 14-15 knots and a top of 19-20 knots. Location: Reedville, VA Morning Geltlemen, Not sure if we are still talking about the original post, but here's a beautiful hull - the lines came from a 1952 Alvin Beal designed boat.
True Downeast boats trace their legendary performance to a long line of ocean-proven work boats dating all the way back to Friendship sloops and Muscongus Bay schooners.
When Maine fishermen began switching from sail to power, the Downeast hull configuration evolved from a true displacement hull to a longer, wider, semi-displacement hull.
True Downeast hulls features a large keel, flat aft sections, and a fine entry, allowing them to slice cleanly and comfortably through the waves without significant loss of speed. As engines became more readily available, and horsepower and displacement increased, the fisherman built their work boats with flatter aft sections to support the weight and bulk of the bigger engines, yet retained the boat’s traditional fine entry. Planing hulls tend to ride on top of the water at speeds where they pound in any kind of a sea. Today, with a single engine, Ellis boats can duplicate the performance of most deep-V boats with twin engines, but with single-engine efficiency and economy. At slower speeds, these hulls point their bows high into the air reducing forward visibility to a dangerous level, and making for a very uncomfortable ride. Today’s true Downeast hulls use horsepower to get them up beyond displacement speeds, and yet these boats are still true to the central issue of providing predictable stability.
A more subtle aspect of the Downeast hull design are the soft chines (the gradual curve where bottom and sides meet).
Each Ellis hull is manufactured in our state of the art two-piece molds (with the exception of the Ellis 20, which is constructed in a single piece mold due to its more manageable size).
No way they would be so popular among the fishermen if they were not well suited to it; not just the bay, but the open New England waters as well.
I have recently joined the Royal Victorian Motor Yacht Club and this has given me the opportunity to look at a wide variety of boats and narrow down what I would like?.. I have looked at a locally built boat, a Cheviot 32, and it is lovely but just a bit to small for me, plus access to the bow is more difficult than I would like. Do you have any suggestions on how this design could be ?improved? to achieve (or exceed) these sort of targets while still meeting what I am after? The lower cabin has a kitchenette, a separate toilet with wash basin and two bench seats that have been set up to convert to a basic double berth.
Do you have any suggestions on how this design could be ?improved? to achieve (or exceed) these targets?
Most engine problems seem to be with boats that are from water in fuel, or rarely used (one survey her showed 80% of marina berthed boats do less than 5 trips a year) or not well maintained or a combination of all of these. Recently a 36' boat tipped over of the Tasmanian coast and from the coroners report it seems most likely because of a generator that had been bolted to the cabin roof and a 'tower' built above the cabin. As there's about 3' of depth to the engine room, one should be able to stand up on either side of the engine. I am looking for a designer to assist in the design and construction of a 38 - 42 boat in line with the requirements I have been providing. I am starting to get more and more interested in boats and in the near future would like to build or buy one.
If my old memory serves me well the hull form was derived from a fishing craft called a Novi. The Draco Volans by Sam Devlin is under construction & it's new owner Ed Schulman, has very determined views about it. Sorry if in the questionnaire you'll find some italian words, it's a limit of Google tool I've used to prepare the poll.
Stability is inherent in a design that includes a skeg to protect the underbody, propeller, steering gear, and drive train. In this long transition from sail to power, the builders shortened up the keel slightly, but kept the long and narrow hull.
The common hard chine or planing hull must utilize a great deal of power (with a corresponding leap in fuel consumption) to drive the boat up out of the water and onto a plane.
In bad weather, then, the planing hull must either travel at a bone-jarring rate of speed to stay on plane (if the hull and crew can withstand the punishment) or reduce its speed to a crawl to maintain a relatively flat attitude. The fine entry of the forward section slices through the waves cleanly and without pounding.


They are simply about as stable a platform as you could ever want–and that means stable at 8 knots, stable at 20 knots.
The sound of waves slapping against a hull can be surprisingly disruptive to those who sleep aboard. These two pieces are hand-laid with stitched biaxial E-Glass and vinylester resin for superior strength and then fit together to form a one-piece hull while still in the mold. Brant rock ( well off the south shore ) has got so many buoys floating around it you could walk across em and its out in the middle of nowhere, definitely not protected water and we fixed plenty of boats that worked there. Or do you have another engine you would like to suggest that you think would be a better match to my requirements? So I?m guessing the all up weight of fuel, engine, batteries (300 kg), toilet etc would be have to be getting close to 3,000 kgs, not sure what the hull and fitout would be?.. Down my way (Bass Strait, Southern Ocean, Tasman Sea) a very large percentage of the commercial fishing fleet just have the one engine in their boats. I also was thinking of framing the canopy and going with a cloth covering rather than a roof deck.
As, I guess, many people I am attracted to lobster boats, both for their look and ruggedness.
However, the resolution is just to low to make out the values along the (iso)lines of the hull. Down East hull form & Lake Union Dreamboat derived looks to suit the North West cruising conditions.
Once on top of the water, the hull will pound and slap the waves, and has little lateral resistance to wave motion and, as a result, will pitch and roll, often lifting the props out of the water. It’s an exceptionally dry ride, with the flared bow effortlessly tossing aside the bow wave as the hull slips through the water without a fuss. The center seam is filled with twelve layers of fiberglass which fuse the two halves together creating an extraordinarily strong keel.
I?m wondering if there is much weight to be saved by the choice of construction materials (hence my previous question on yellow cedar planking). I?ve seen a boat with a nifty setup with a central door and drop down windows on each side. I was with him when it happened and also touched the bottom but because of my keel all I got was red faced.
However if you refer back to the origional Novi hull form and it matches closely I see no harm in the Lobster yacht claimiture other than that, call it what it is, a modified Novi-A Downeaster, A Cape Islander, A Northumberland, and so on.
While this may not be accurate it is in such common use in the industry that fighting it is a steep uphill battle. It would suit Southern England conditions as well as Summer has turned out colder & rainer than the Met Office forecast.
In fact, the early boats, with a ratio of three feet of length to one foot of beam, could be driven to hull speed with just 3 hp. More importantly, the keel and skeg serve to protect the vessel’s running gear in the case of accidental or deliberate groundings.
The flat after section tends to squat slightly, keeping the propeller and rudder deep in the water for a solid bite and excellent steerage. Many of our customers find this single feature to be of real value when tied up to a mooring or alongside a dock. With the exception of the solid fiberglass keel and skeg, the hull is cored with vacuum bagged ATC Core-Cell® structural foam core to provide exceptional seaworthiness, impact resistance, sound deadening, strength to weight ratios and insulation properties. I take your point about making her too light and therefore having a too quick motion ? again I assume having the big solid keel will help to dampen this?.. At the same time, the full length skeg and keel resists side-to-side rocking, while helping the boat track effortlessly–even in a following sea. The Downeast hull, even in nasty chop and heavy swell conditions, can cruise comfortable all day long at 12 to 20 knots.



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