You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Location: Salisbury, UK Very many thanks for the kind words, they are really appreciated. I am absolutely in love with the shape of this boat, it manages to combine the efficiency I've been looking for with the elegance of a slender slipper launch.
The motor drive unit will fit through a centreboard-type slot and case built in to the base of the stern compartment and accessible through a transom mounted hatch. The motor will tip up aft, with the prop clearing the bottom of the transom (when folded) and rising up out of the water.
I'll be working flat out over the next few weeks to complete the boat for the summer, so may not get too much time to check in here with updates.
Location: Salisbury, UK I've not tank tested it, Rick, but have taken it out on a canoe to get an idea of it's performance. Although I wasn't able to get any solid data to show thrust vs power, I did manage to confirm that the unit pushed the canoe along very well whilst only using about 85 watts. Location: Salisbury, UK The prop folded OK as soon as power was reduced, and popped out very quickly as soon as power was applied. The one slight problem I found was that if the prop stopped with the blades vertical the lower blade just dropped down. Put all your fibreglass reinforcement on the inside and only cover the whole outside with one (or two) full layers of cloth .


Location: Salisbury, UK The hull is really much, much better finished than those very early photos of progress show.
Rewiring them for low voltage is easy, just a matter of reconnecting the windings in parallel rather than series. Another option for low speed, high torque, direct drive is a geared electric bike hub motor, stripped of its gears. Something like a Puma or BMC geared hub, stripped of it's gears, will deliver a kW or two easily enough and will be about half the diameter of the F&P motor. Anyway, I'm picking up my hull next week and it will then be full speed ahead on getting the motor and electrics installed and then get the boat on the water for some testing. I've been following several different threads involving efficient hull design to optimize either pedal power or electric motors.
I'm no engineer [in fact, many of the discussions take me several readings to even vaguely follow]. I'd like to see if its possible, using good design, hobby motors, and 24 - 36 volt battery banks, on a lightweight stabilized monohull, to achieve a 12 to 15 knot speed for a 35 mile race.
If overall length was kept under a maximum of 32 feet, what would the optimal hull look like?
And I'd be interested in exploring a weird concept of obtaining some lift, at speed, from the support arms.
If it were possible to generate more lift than drag, at speed, the hull would 'operate' lighter in the water, gaining efficiency.


Again, if you have the time, could you give this some thought towards what the optimal design might entail?
Rather than confuse this thread with another boat with different operating requirements it will be preferrable to start your own thread.
To give you an idea the lowest drag hull of 200kg displacement requires 1.45kW on the hull to do 14kts. Location: Salisbury, UK I've just got back from a drive across country to the far side of Wales to collect the hull. Guest625101138 Previous Member   Looking forward to see it on the water under electric power.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
The cardboard is folded and then glued into shape, then it's covered with fiberglass cloth and resin. Kidnap an electrical engineer and force them to build a custom, high voltage 3 phase AC motor controller to drive the motor.
Buy a pallet of LiFePO4 batteries and wire them in series to get the high voltages required.



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