Interesting development Hoosier State the Reggie Fountain RF Powerboats story http componentto build a cat building a powerboat catamaran plans. Because damages to boat floors can really be annoying and inconvenient, boat owners can do something about this simple problem by learning the basic steps in repairing fiberglass boat floors. One of the significant advantages of fiberglass boats is that it can be repaired and restored with ease.
Bondo polyester body fill and Bondo fiberglass resin can be used for both cosmetic and structural repairs on fiberglass boats, respectively.
Use Bondo fiberglass resin alone or with fiberglass tape, cloth or mat to repair damaged fiberglass boats, snowmobiles, jet skis, bathtubs and showers. Polyester resin alone is almost worthless, so coating the under side with only resin isn't going to be of any value.
The plywood itself supplies adequate strength, the glass is just to tie it into the hull sides and protect it.
Multiple layers of cloth on plywood isn’t an ideal laminate schedule for polyester, stick with CSM as a first layer and 1 cloth on top of it.
Location: spain A very good reference that is free to download on the net is the Gougheon Brothers on boatbuilding. In addition almost every epoxy supplier has a good tutorial on glass types, general scantlings and best practice.
Location: Dublin,Ireland On my builds I used 6oz cloth it's put on dry the day before to let it settle. Also the 'sole' does add a bunch of strength to hulls, especially in small, lightweight boats like a 16' trihull. Which brings up one more thing, no matter which resin you use, and that is be sure the hull is not twisted or bent out of shape by whatever is supporting it. Mix just enought to do the job and if you need a little more just make a small mix to finish it with ! Differant types of glasses use differant quantities of resin ,but its your starting point !
Originally Posted by PAR The polyester built boats don't last long, as their plywood and solid timber support structures die fairly quickly. This is all because they don't prime the wooden elements very well, use too thin of sheathing over them, polyesters don't really stick to wood well, isn't especially water proof (take your pick) and generally don't care much about what happens after a dealer sells it.
I have a few older wooden boats, none of which has had a pampered life, all with original wooden decks and all either pushing 50 or over 50 years old. In the end it's your call, but even the slow to change manufactures are getting away from it. Location: OREGON These people seem to me to be the most conpetitive in pricing. Location: Eustis, FL Archie, contact me by email (ckick on my name) and I'll get you some epoxy cheaper then Raka.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Finding a good quality used fishing boat can often pose a daunting experience for the new or first time boater.
Commercial rubber blocks are for fairing something that is already smooth like the bottom of the boat. I need help and advice as many of you seem very experienced in composite boat building and repair. Thus I would like to ask for (detailed) instructions, advices and everything that can be use- and helpful. Your labor can't be counted as worth much at all since you will take a lot of time to do the job right.
Location: Milwaukee, WI If you are looking at learning how to work with fiberglass, this can be a good project.
Another problem is that the crack goes through the whole hull so it should be cut into two halves actually.


Location: Eustis, FL The video isn't very helpful in your situation, as it's just a cosmetic repair type of thing. With the damaged areas aligned and braced into position, wet out all the areas with straight epoxy, then apply your fabrics.
When this gets slightly tacky, apply an epoxy fillet mixture, of milled fibers and silica over the areas you just laid fabric on. I would not think twice for a hundred or so and having all the gear I would bang out the repair in a few hours work, then give the boat to a friend or such. One trick is to bond down some battens (read paint sticks) over the repair area on the inside, grind out and do the glass work outside. So the top layer (gelcoat) will come after the layers (an top filler) had been built up, is that correct?
The ply has a piece of plastic film to keep it from bonding to the hull during the outside repairs (the blue layer). Location: Eustis, FL A plywood backer is a good idea at first blush, but this assumes you're working with developed surfaces, which I'll bet aren't. My first blush ideal would do though: simple paint stick battens, but I am betting that a quick backer of luan ply will spring in and do the deed. Location: Eustis, FL Damn, I was hoping she was, it would have been nice to see the old lass again. Keeping the canoe light is a bit of problem as the best cover for the whole of the bottm would be Kevlar as its robust , and much better abrasive resistant and will take much more hard pounding and bashing against rocks etc etc choose your materials carefully and take extra care doing your repairs !!
It is clear that I need some kind of backer since as I looak at the pictures I need to grind out 10-15 cm wide pieces. On the photos you can see areas where the top layer is cracked but the fiberglass may be undamaged.
I had a quick look at the westsystem guides yesterday, they are very-very good, I will learn a lot from them. I was just commenting on the presence of a 'V' shape in the hull not shown in my second drawing. I think you have the ideal- a backer(s) of some type is likely needed to keep alignment of the hull shell as the repair is done. You might want to start by assessing if the hull is still fair as par mentioned in his first post. The rigidity and length of the battens used will have a bearing on how much of hull form is carried from adjacent panel over the repair area- to rigid and a flat spot is created, too limp and the hull may have a bulge at the repair. There are many tricks one can employ such as tape pulled tight over the hull as a bonded in batten cures. The goal is all the same- hold the hull fair and tapers aligned as the outside glass work is done. You will have to suss it out as you go just keeping in mind the issues that need addressing so that you end up with a credible repair.
With all the right information, tools and materials, they can fix these simple damages anytime. You require just a few materials to repair a fiberglass boat as opposed to boats made of metal of wood that requires intricate and expensive work.
I always let the prime coat of resin set up before laminating fiberglass on to it, if I didn't the wood usually sucked resin from the cloth and left dry, resin starved areas. Polyester isn't near as good an adhesive and odds are that cloth directly on wood can be easily peeled off. What it mainly does, when it is glassed to the hull around all the edges, is stop the hull from twisting. To simplify this process we have broken it down into seven logical steps that can be applied to any used fishing boat. Get simple directions on making this boat repair, along with a list of the materials you\'ll need. It has never been used (saved from a sunk ship by a diver) but its hull is damaged and there are some other minor issues with it (steering) in addition.


If I bought it I would try to repair it myself but I have no experience in that kind of job. I don't count the hours I might spend on it since I would do it in my free time and I enjoy manual work. Epoxy is better suited for a number of reasons, but mostly because it's much more novice friendly and considerably stronger too. Since it's Kevlar, this will eat up sanding materials and make a difficult to fair surface, but it has to be done. There is a bit more work with the boat than I expected so I`m trying to beat down the price to the half and I might buy it then. The complete We are renowed for building large custom made luxury yachts catamarans tycoon boats and superyachts. That's why mat is always used as a first layer on wood when using polyester, it sticks better for some reason.
The boat would be surprisingly flexible that way without the sole being glassed to the hull on all the edges.
Polyester has earned every inch of it's reputation from many, like me, that have had to hack it out of boats and the obvious signs seen during repairs, upgrades and modifications. There is access to the inner surface through the lid but it would be much more comfortable to remove the yellow top half. At least 2 layers of 400 GPM biax bridging the cracks and holes, stagger any seams or use butt joints on the first layer and overlap these on the second.
Just because they also grinded out the damaged area and tapered the edges similar to your advice. The damaged areas show up the weakness of the hull , sure its had a good old pounding but even so its not that strong , Me i would be using undirectionall glass but if if you have neve done repairs before double bias would be the next best choice !. Rather than looking like a separate patch new layer of fiberglass merges with the body of the boat after it dries.
If the supports are bending in the hull anywhere, when it's glassed there is a good chance it will be permanent.
Again it's a costly decision on their part, as these materials generally cost a lot more then wood. If there's a kink the boat needs to be braced back into position, so any repairs can hold her in the shape she needs to be. This taper will provide a place for the filler materials and new fabrics to live, without a bulge. Just read up on the techniques and material choices and you'll be better armed to tackle this project. Well, simply put a novice attempting to gel coat, with a reasonable finish and color match is just not very likely, to have much success. I put a new transom core in a 12 year old boat recently and repaired stringers and hatch surround on an 8 year old boat a few months ago.
Simply put they're using vinylester resin because their shop is step up for styrene and MEKP, which isn't necessary at all with epoxy shops.
Tuesday, more of the same, but by mid week more summer like weather, in the low 80's and higher humidity.
You have some work to do with a grinder and a medium to fine disc and very gently scuff and grind and feather the damaged areas 50 to 100 mm around all damaged areas so the new glass will have a really good bond to the old surface !!
Sticking with a poly base permits these builders, to keep much of the resin and material handling equipment used on polyester. The damaged glass needs to be completely ground out untill you are back into the good glass again . Building your have catamaran is a good investment and commode get you the sauceboat you want When you build up your possess you suffer a great deal newer designs to draw from building a powerboat catamaran plans.



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