Our tanks can be used for above ground or buried installations, for a variety of applications.
Mouldings Design is a producer of engineered fibreglass products using resin transfer and infusion technology. Traditional methods are used where small production runs do not justify the additional investment required to make products using vacuum processes. Mouldings Design provides a wide range of products to the mining, fire protection and transport industries including fibreglass for the production of a range of buses being built in Australia. We are undertaking a project to progressively convert production from open moulds to closed moulds using light resin transfer (RTM). Mouldings Design staff have been actively engaged in process improvement projects with our customers to identify design and productivity improvements. We work closely with patternmaking businesses with access to CNC routers which can convert CAD drawings to plugs from which we make moulds. Location: Eustis, FL It's best to approach the problem a little differently then you seem to be.
Location: Eustis, FL I don't think hull configuration is particularly import, though size, speed, weight and intended use are.
Originally Posted by PAR I don't think hull configuration is particularly import, though size, speed, weight and intended use are.
Steel reinforcement in a trimaran is not the usual approach, but extra layers of cloth and epoxy are.
Location: USA No, I do not have that experience, but I worked as the wood lamination repair tech in a yard that used the materials and observed as much as I could.
The only problem I saw with high-tech was owners breaking the boats and complaining because the repair costs were so high. Some customers want the best, are willing to pay for it, and will get it from a craft shop that knows its stuff.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Australia Some photos of the hull cleaned up and ready for the stringers. Also the photo of the slit where the previous person almost cuts through actually held water in the boat for over 24hrs and only wept but ill still glass over it and put a little matting on it. I have made custom sub boxes for a friends car a bit ago and helped a friend make a fiber box so have a fairly good understanding about glassing and how it goes. Im not doing any glassing till probably end of next week and we have 2 days nextweek of 30+c so it should dryout nicely. When i put a long straight edge under the boat and the top is seems to look sort of ok, but the traider skids seem to be about 40mm away from touching it?
I will clean up around the hole as you mentioned about 100mm and glass a new strip over it. I will take some pick of it when i get home with the straight edge on it so you can give your opinion too. Quick look and see loads of strands of glass that never been rolled down when the boat was sprayed with a chopper gun . In your case for sticking things in and coving the corners TALC and AEROSILL mix is completely ok .
The consistancy is best when you can turn the container on its side and it just starts to move but dosent slump or try to runout of the container !! After you make the bog let it sit for a couple of hours before you use it just the make sure both ingreadiance are 100% saturated with resin you will notice its stiffer than when you first mixed it When you put a blob on the surface and then remove it and the surface should have a damp or wet looking patch where the resin is on the surface . After you have cut and fitted the stringers and its ready to be stuck in make sure you have lots bracing to hold them secure in place lift the stringer out and brush a coat of catalysed resin all over the wood and let it soak in!! When its hardened a second coat specially the ends and the edges that were cut and shaped . Ok i think i got what you was saying and when get home will digest it and repeat back for your confirmation.
I will try a chisel out the old filler over the weekend and also need to go over all the hull with the grinder to prep it for the new glass to bond.
Im hoping to have this done for xmas, i have all the wood and glass now so just the case of getting it all put together. I do have a 200 yammy to go on the back too, the boat was recommended for a 180hp but the old transom was 15mm and imm replacing with a 18mm so 200 should be fine. Cut the timber for the stringers and by then i will have a revised layup for you stringer system . Location: East of Atlanta Ga Tunnels, I have a question (still on my learning curve here) the bog recipe you mentioned, I understand the 2 to1 mix of talc and aerosill, then mix the resin in and let it sit in a covered container, hardener is mixed in just as you are about to use it correct ?
Originally Posted by wooky30014 Tunnels, I have a question (still on my learning curve here) the bog recipe you mentioned, I understand the 2 to1 mix of talc and aerosill, then mix the resin in and let it sit in a covered container, hardener is mixed in just as you are about to use it correct ?
Use a smaller conainer big baked bean tin or simular to measure the talc and aerosill into the resin as you are slowly stirring with the paint stirrer !!
Its easyer to use some of the premix you just made in another plastic container then add the catalyst and t thoroughly mix ,you will notice it changes color slightly so all needs to be the same colour.
I was thinking about the tank of making a cut out in the keel stringer to leave about 70mm thick and about 1.2m long so i can make a box shape in the floor for the tank to fit in, that way the floor is supporting the tank and not the stringers and i can also access it if any problems. The hull wall is 6mm thick and i will put a 18mm ply + 15mm ply, im guessing that will be more than enough for the motor.
I still need a little info for the joining of stringers as i read that scarf joints at crap and a think of the past and now a sister joint is better?

Under the stringers where they were and the new ones will be placed they sat inside the strakes !!
Strakes are a weak part of any hull bottom and a place that has 3 corners on each strake ,, they bend and work and always get cracks and the glass layers separate and the first place you go looking if the boat has a leak !! I have drawn the extra layers of glass using double bias glass as 100% of the strands will work for you right to the line where it finishs , 200mm each side of the stringers both sides full length , No woven roving should not be used !!
Like i said before this post ,coat all the wood with resin and when it hard second coat again specially any end grain .
Dont make the resin go hard to quickly as its needs to soak in and thats what the glass will stick to !! The glass panels between the strakes and the keel are the ones that take all the pounding and stress when the boat is going . I hope you took note of the transom thickness i recomeneded and it should have knees down onto the stringers !! The bigger boats we have we always glass in extra glass then fill with high density foam and glass over and then carry on with the rest of the hull .
Location: East of Atlanta Ga Tunnels, the bog recipe makes perfect sense now, I knew about the adding a little talc and aerosil at a time and yes absolutely a plastic container. On my boat it looks like I'll have to put a second set of stringers on the outer strakes and a keel board (didn't have them there before nor a keel board). It looks to be in fairly good condition, however quite a bit of the gelcoat has cracked and I think this might have to do with the excessive flex in the fibreglass.
Cheers A couple of timber stringers glassed over completely could do wonders and just behinh the seat a half a ring frame put in after stringers are done .
I purchased a 20ft half cab boat which the floor had been cut out, after i got home i see the floor was rotten especially at the front where it hadnt been removed yet.
I have now discovered that all the stringers are rotten and 90% of them are completely gone. I decided while the floor was out i will remove the back part of the top of boat and im glad i did as the transom was like paper peices and completely rotted out. I think thats all for now and will keep adding photos and details as i go along which hopefully will be of help to someone else.
But in saying that we all do silly things from time to time its repairable and will be a totall repair and rebuild . All i need to do it clear out the old stringers thats almost gone anyway, put in new stringers, put in new transom, then new floor, put the coaming back on and bobs my auntie,. All and any bonding to old glass surfaces need to be a minimum of 100 mm so 150 gound surface will give plenty of good bonding . I have grinded all the stringers down, it appears there is a filling of dark colour fibreglass between the stringers and the gullys in the hull. Wil it be safe to put on that or should i remove that and put some fresh packing in and what should i use if i do?
I will put up some photos tomorrow when i clear the 2ft thick coating of fibredust from everything. When i said packing i did mean like a filler between the the stringer wood and the actual hull.
Im not sure what the bits of wood are called, they are the bits that interlock with the stringers that the floor sits on. What would be the recommended gap between them as im just working out roughly how much wood i need and drawing a rough plan too on the computer. I was also thinking i would cut some holes the same size of conduit in the stringers and first seal them with resin then put in the tube and seal again this way the water has drainage means to the billage drain.. One more question is how high should i make the stringers, i was wanting to make some compartments in he floor so want to calculate the room, i was also thinking of making a custom tank to go under the floor in a sealed compartment with a lid on so i can access if needs be? I have 2 x 1200x2400mm x 18mm marine ply for the stringers, what would the recommended floor thickness be?
As for drainage I was going to cut the corners off where the bulkheads meet the outer side of the stringers with no tube, letting it into the bilge at the transom and another main bilge drainway along the keel for the area between the two stringers.
Ok i have purchased the wood and its getting delivered tomorrow which i want to make the stringers and bulkheads over the weekend.
Im also picking up a 20kg container of fibreglass resin as i would like to start glassing next week. I thought i would fill the hull with water to the floor level line to see if there was any holes, there was 1 i did and another where the previous person cut the floor out with a circular saw and didnt quite cut through but close enough for it to weep. Would filling the cut line with resin then a sheet of glass on top after the resin has set be enough?
When i filled the boat up with water i saw it had sat on the trailer properly again as when i removed all the rotten stringers it seemed to turn floppy and also the hull seemed not to sit on the trailer properly and pivot side to side. What would be also the best way to join 2 stringers together, please select a number from attached image, personally i think number 1 as number 2 has the ability to slide and move whereas 1 is locked in. When i make the stringers as the wood will be square do i need to make the bottom in the contour of the gaps where the stringers go? Resin has no guts and the slightest bit of movment it will break just like a glass bottle and you will have a leak . The other thing that need checking is the bottom of the boat , find a long straight edge of timber or something and check how flat anf straight the bottom is !!!! We are committed to vacuum assisted resin transfer and infusion as they are environmentally friendly processes. The first products converted are parts to be used for the manufacture and maintenance of Perth's Public Transport Authority bus fleet.

The improvements identified are being re-engineered by patternmakers to ensure the parts meet customer requirements.
We are committed to producing quality products by utilising the resources and knowledge of our team, suppliers and business associates. We work closely with technical experts employed by our suppliers to ensure we are using appropriate resin transfer techniques. Where you'll sail this boat (specifically) and a little more detail as to why you think this boat isn't sufficiently equipped to cope with your boating area. They have very little interior space for the expense (3 hulls etc), tack slowly and are hard to berth.
Yes, they are very much stronger when properly engineered and built, long-lasting, non-corroding and really a wonderful boatbuilding tool.
Sensible sailors would make a very light, highly stressed boat last a very long time and go anywhere on the planet they wished, idiots will screw anything up.
No bias against modern things, they just are fussy and costly for seemingly marginal return sometimes, not always of course. What would be the leniency for the hook or rocker and what problems does this cause later if its too bad? Dont mix the resin so it goes hard quickly beause you are defeating the object if wanting it to soak in to the wood !!.
The resin coats are to seal and help preserve the wood so it will last for long time AND give a good bonding surface for the glass and bog to stick to as you can see from the old bog thats still there its was a sad atempt at sticking the wood down . Ive out that the stringers are 18mm and will be using marine ply, what would be the best to seal them with and also i was reading about making sure the wood doesnt touch the fibreglass.
The old stringers at the transom was sealed to it which made no sense to me as if water got in it wouldnt have anywhere to go, could i drill a hole big anout to put a tube in and seal around the hole with silicon? I want to put a underground fuel tank in the middle too, can someone give me some tips and ideas?
When fibreglassing the stringers how many layers do i need and what about the thickness of the layers as i can only find thickness in GSM. Mine is torn down and has been on hold for a while, gonna get back to it soon when it cools off a bit outside.
Its a old boat so lets go over board a little and you wont ever have to worry about anything for long time to come . As for the top of them, cured resin on both sides of floor plywood (after cutting to fit) then filler along the bulkheads and tabbed at the outer edges and along the stringers (if this is the wrong way somebody chime in so two of us don't do it wrong). Needs to be ground out gently and glassed properly maybe a small patch but the surface needs to be a 100mm or more all round the hole !! These methods also produce high quality composite products by excluding air from the process.
This knowledge is being documented so that it is available for all current and future team members.
The last ten years of around-the-world sleds is a great example of working high-tech, but at a cost. Movie miniature in pic cost $300k to build plus $200k filming, but in the film you can't tell the difference between her and the 4 times larger LADY WASHINGTON. To get that amount of bog id use a plascit bag and partly fill with the catalsed bog and use it like a icing bag the cake decoraters use and pip the bog in a even and consistant thickness so it ooozes out from under the wood all the way along both sides then use that and more bog to cove the corner bothsides from end to end . With smaller boats when they sit on the trailer the rollers or bunks are where the strakes are most times !
Solid wood is ok and even better with 5mm ply each side solid had a habit of splitting if you hit anything in the water . Why do you think it's unable to tolerate the impacts of debris and other floating or fixed indignities?
You are probably best to get a very heavy fibreglass bottom built, the boat will be lighter for the same strength as steel, so will have less impact with obstacles.
Coving and being able to roll you glass into a radused corner add a lot of strength to what you are doing . If you not taking the stringers to there max height to lay the floors onto its ok but remember you have to support and hold the floor up one way or another !. A shock load is like a really hard slap one when the boat jumps and spray goes out the side a long way . After the pics were taken I cut the tops off the stringers to remove all the rotten wood in them.
Its the type of foam you use and the shape you could make before you glass over it that will give strength and not add a lot odf weight !!
Plus the surfaces to be glassed over need to be scuffed and ground 99% clean so the new glass will have any kind of a chance of sticking properly and so it will stay and last and not fall off sometime later .
I mention this because these are fairly common issues, addressed in the design process or considered during repairs or upgrades, suggesting your current experience level, hasn't exposed you to the usual solutions employed. Like I said before I'm still in the planning stages of this since putting the project on hold.

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