Photo 2—Left, a coarse 3M® Roloc™ Bristle Disc did a good job of removing paint around the repair after it was hammered back into shape. For the patch, we cut a single piece of 745 (12 oz) Episize™ Glass Fabric for the outside and three pieces (in diminishing sizes) for the inside. We started with the single layer outside patch, applying it to the hull centered over the hole and smoothing it into the thickened mixture (Photo 6). Photo 6—A single layer of glass was applied to the outside of the hull and smoothed into the thickened epoxy. Photo 7—Three layers of glass were laid in position on the inside of the hull and lightly squeegeed to remove trapped air.
We have a video demonstrating aluminum boat repair: Fixing Leaking Rivets in an Aluminum Boat.
After the area around the leaky rivets is cleaned and well scuffed, heat the area with a propane torch to drive off moisture and warm the metal. This kit offers the right epoxy, fiberglass and fillers to complete repairs to cracks and holes, gelcoat blisters, delaminated cored panels and more.
Each Fiberglass Boat Repair Kit contains eight packets of WEST SYSTEM 105 Resin and 205 Hardener, fiberglass fabric, adhesive filler, fairing filler, glue brushes, mixing pots, a mixing stick, an application syringe, three pairs of protective gloves and illustrated instructions for completing a variety of common fiberglass repairs. All components are contained in a sturdy, resealable package that can be easily stowed aboard your boat. Repair plastic canoes, kayaks and inflatables made from HDPE, LDPE, ABS, PVC or polycarbonate plastic with the contents of this kit.
Location: miami leaky jon boat hey guys im new to boating in general and bought my first boat the other day an old 11' aluminum jon boat. Location: Iowa You can do your patching with fiberglass and epoxy, putting a layer on each side of the transom metal. Location: miami i finally stripped all the paint off the boat and sanded it down with 60 grit sand paper. Originally Posted by lewisboats You can do your patching with fiberglass and epoxy, putting a layer on each side of the transom metal. Location: Iowa Thickened epoxy is regular epoxy that is used in boat building and a thickener added such as wood flour or milled glass fibers or even talc (baby powder) or I have even heard of regular wheat flour being used.
The wood under the seats probably has not seen much water and has never sat damp for extended periods of time so I doubt it is rotted.
The only real instructions you need for epoxy is to use it outdoors if possible, wear long sleeves and rubber gloves and perhaps a respirator mask.

To do cloth it is best if you can get the surface to be level but being as this is a transom, that might be a little difficult. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
John Kennedy offered his old 15' Michi-Craft canoe, saying he would bring it down from his cabin at the end of hunting season. The metal had yielded, so we cut away enough of the torn edges to allow the aluminum to lie fair. Stopper holes were drilled at the end of each tear, and the surface was prepared by wet sanding with 80-grit. Working away from the canoe, we stacked up the three inner patches and squeegeed them to make sure there was no entrapped air. I was quite surprised to find that every aluminum boat owner I talked to said they had some sort of leak.
The heat initially thins the epoxy, allowing it to seep into the smallest crevice, and then speeds the gel time. Illustrated, detailed instructions explain how to repair leaking seams and rivets in aluminum boats.
Also included are a 2" x 10" piece of 9 oz fiberglass tape (useful for patching, reinforcing or abrasion resistance), an application brush, mixing stick, pipe cleaner, two cleaning pads and complete instructions.
MD imho, that boat is shot, you'll probably spend more fixing it than buying a new one. MD heck if its just a 25 dollar boat and you have no longterm plans i'd consider getting a sheep of plywood and a tube of PL premuin. The hole in the bottom by the drain will need to have thickened epoxy put onto it, then glassed. If it is you can simply drill out the rivets and replace with screws but I don't think it is necessary. Not smiling, he asked a few weeks later “just how big a repair we could handle.” It turned out John jack-knifed his utility trailer on an icy road, punching a fist-sized hole in the stern quarter of the canoe (Photo 1).
Cut up and placed in the green city recycling bins, the canoe could be gone the next trash day.
A hammer and an auto-body bucking dolly gave us reasonable control in getting the hull close to its original shape. Finally, we mixed 406 Colloidal Silica with the residual adhesive in our cup to make a thickened mixture suitable for filling the holes and cutaways in the canoe (Photo 5).

We then centered the stack of patches over the hole on the inside of the hull and carefully laid it into place (Photo 7). This “toughened” fairing compound smoothed the outside for better hydrodynamics and the inside for cleanliness and additional scuff resistance. To reduce the possibility of destruction or distortion, I tilted the boat and only filled one end at a time since filling the boat up entirely might have done more damage to the seams.
Heat  the repair area with a propane torch (a heat gun will work) up to 180–220°F to dry out the repair area.
Make sure you clean (buff lightly with sand paper) the surface just prior to laying the cloth and wipe it with a solvent to make sure you get the best bond. Checking the mental Rolodex for the friend with the TIG welder and the associated skill to weld such wounds in thin gauge aluminum was another option. We drilled stopper holes at the end of each tear to reduce the potential for crack propagation. Complete heating and filling each rivet or seam section before moving on to the next to avoid too much heat loss.
Or perhaps finding another friend, who is convinced that a torch and brazing rod in the hands of an artist will solve almost anything. We then checked the outside of the hull to make sure that the pressure on the adhesive in the holes was not pushing the outer patch out of fair. We used a coarse 3M® Roloc™ Bristle Disc to remove paint both inside and outside, giving ourselves plenty of bonding surface area around the hole (Photos 2 & 3).
When satisfied with the patch placement and fairness, inside and out, we let the patch cure overnight. Butter the area with a little unthickened epoxy first and let it cure to a tacky texture then smear on the thickened stuff. This thickness should be kind of runny so it flows but with some filler in it to fill the little pocks of weave.

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