Waratah - Dix 43 CC » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post free plans on the net.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: New Jersey Steel Boat Building Techniques I am looking at a custom (homemade) 40' steel boat. I cannot remember which book I saw it in, but I once saw a boat built in the lapstrake (clinker) style out of steel. Originally Posted by Chapman Sorry to answer your question with more questions, but I've never seen a lap joint used on shell plating with the possible exception of doubler plates being added. Although all those welds & resulting heat would be a negative, the longitudinal strength would be impressive. All those laps would also present alot of corrosion possibilities, exterior & especially interior. Location: Australia The overlap method was common for a decade or so after the move from riveting joins to welding. Either alternate under over plating, or lapstrake or jogged seam where the overlap is heated with a torch and hammered over the lower plate till it fits snug . In all types both the inner and the outer plate edge are then fully welded to the plate below. The boatyard saves a lot of time in fitting since you can have a large tolerance on the edges.
The problem is the internal void along the overlap and if the welds don't seal completely it corrodes.
Location: Maryland Actually laps have an advantage for some welding issues - you can use drag rod.
Originally Posted by CDBarry Actually laps have an advantage for some welding issues - you can use drag rod. Welding stainless steel hazards » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post 10 years for building a steel sailing boat!.
Location: Oregon Aluminum Jet Boat Plans I have made a futile attempt at finding plans for an aluminum jet sled. Location: Alaska jet sled plans Trigger, it might help if you could give a bit of back ground, have you built a welded aluminum boat before this project? Its easier, on all forums, for anyone who might offer information to form a good quality response when you provide more precise details.
You should determine EXACTLy what you'll do and what you'd hire out, especially as regard the cutting of the parts; hull panels, frames and bulkheads. Since you're looking for an almost flat bottomed sled with little or no V section forward, the hull is much more simple to build. All these items will help refine the work of selecting a plans package, or help you to submit them to someone to design one for you.


Location: Alaska marine design software Trigger, this forum has a rousing ongoing discussion of marine design software and will be of good assistance in trying to select a package.
What I suggest you keep in mind is the design cycle, which doesn't get the press it should. It too easy to get sucked into a method where you rely on the PC's lines to start your boat, if you don't draw well by hand at least get some battens and work with them by hand-then enter the PC.
If you follow a design cycle with some care you can avoid redrawing parts of your boat that were not clearly thoughtout in a previous (more initial) stage of your design work. I also suggest that you avoid a V in the after bottom sections -convex camber runs better under sleds and then bring in the V forward amidships section.
Location: Alaska jet sled design procedure Trigger, I read on some of the forums remarks about the different marine software packages and one remark kind of stands out. I want to discourage you from taking this time as I've spent hundreds of hours downloading and setting up tests of features lists and tool functionality. I can summarize it all by saying the remark (unattributed to its wise author) is true as far as I can say. If I could suggest any package it would be the package of software that seems the most obvious to you. I've worked in Prosurf, MaxSurf, Rhino and several of the others until I'm blue in the mouse hand. How do you interact and what work flow method is required to draw a boat in this package or that? Location: Alaska Aluminum extrusions at the chine Trigger, many highly regarded production builders use an extrusion at the chine which holds the bottom AND the side. I would suggest that it is poor practice to incorporate this into your design for several reasons.
I think hull seams should be fully welded inside and out AND the appearance of a weld is 'welded'. The edge of 5052 plate has experienced exfoliation (peeling into layers) when it was used in these extrusions in salt water although it took a decade to show up. The edge of the side and the edge of the bottom plates are NOT welded in the slotted chine hull joint.
I know other builders who are certain that the weld near but not on the edge of the plate makes the remaining fraction of an inch of plate loose its heat treatment without being mixed in the puddle and fused to another plate. My experience is very limited with this method of building, but I'd like to encourage you to seriously consider the advantages of inside and outside welding instead of just inside welding between the two differing alloys.
I have built a few skiffs that were lost in a storm while towing in the Gulf of AK, one was found years later on the bottom of a log pile.
Location: Southern Oregon Interesting to hear the other side of the coin on this one.
Location: British Columbia, Canada I have some experience with the phenomenon known as crevice corrosion.


Location: Southern Oregon Good Info JD, Something I have not seen but definately makes sense.
Location: Alaska chine extrusions benefits Joey, good points about the benefits of chine extrusions regarding set up, fairing and aid in building.
Almost always built with a crew of a few and most often hanging sides was done with four guys.
I think a stringer type bead, fast hot and drag style along the outside of the slotted chine would allow the one-off builder or working team to have the advantage of the setup without building a weaker joint. Your observation is right on for a single chine sled shaped hull; the slotted chine extrusion would save lots of build effort and often these boats spend considerable time in fresh water. My preference for a cover angle shape welded over an inside edge to inside edge then double welded joint is likely overbuilding; due to long association with Alaskan commercial fishermen.
But other than possibly ice-work, I think a proper steel boats much more than adequate strength wise. The same would go for a repair where someone welded plate over a bad section instead of properly cutting the section out and insetting a new piece, a matter of fact, plate over plate would be much worse I would think.
We had a yard bulding a boat here that was offering a discount to plate this way but local DNV were not happy. In the end, I think this is what will be more productive for you, choosing the software that is the closest to your 'way of thinking'. The lap weld occurs some two or three thicknesses back from the edge of the plate and then it occurs between 6061 or 6063 depending on the alloy of the chine extrusion and the 5086 or 5052 hull plates.
If you only weld one side of a slotted chine extrusion, there is a risk of creating an oxygen depleted area that is exposed to seawater.
The oxide layer on the aluminum sloughs off or is rubbed off by a small amount of flexing in the chine and can't be replaced in the expected way.
Then other insignificant sources of corrosion (the tiny copper content of 60 series extrustions for example) can become major propblems.
I'm leaning towards ProChine3 as it looks like a decent low budget start, but no firm decision yet. If, on the other hand, you choose poooorrrly, you'll become adveserial toward the publisher and the software.
I want to do as much as I can with the build, but the more info as in lines, framing, plate development the better.
I will definetely be around this place, I have alot to learn and there is alot of knowledge here.
The only rust I could find was was in the butt welded deck plate where one side door has been leaking for some time.



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