This RC boat hull building instruction goes hand-in-hand with the plans available for download (use link below).
Read a short introduction to this new series of small RC model boats to learn more, what materials you'll need etc. At this point all templates should be glued to the balsa with the Spray Mount Adhesive, essentially turning the templates into over-size sticky notes. Also note that the deck and chine shelf templates only account for one half of the hull, so you need to make two of items "A" and "B". With the exception of multiple parts from one template (as outlined above) parts with straight edges are best cut to finished size with the knife and straight-edge.For rounded edges there will be excess material coming off as angles. At this point its tempting to peel off the templates, but hold your horses - we're not quite ready for that yet.
Once the necessary marks are made, you can safely peel off the templates with one exception: Leave the template on the keel in place for now. When I built the prototype I didn't have the hull alignment template, so you'll see the template is missing in the pictures on this page.
Take a straight-edge and pencil and draw lines connecting the bulkhead position marks you made from the templates to aid bulkhead placement later on.Earlier we marked both front and rear edge of the bulkheads onto the balsa. Place the transom (item "5") in-between the two chine shelf pieces and line it up with even on the left and right hand side. Next dry fit the stem piece (item marked "D") and bulkhead #1 and lay them in position with stem piece centered on the hull center-line and the bulkhead in it's marked position.Check and make sure they are perpendicular to the building board and each other. Note how the paper "hollow" inside the templates is left to maintain the integrity of the shapes. Now it's time to start cutting out the parts.Separate each part from the sheet first by using a razor blade or X-acto knife and a metal straight-edge. The same goes for the knee (item "E").The best way to make two identical parts is to sandwich two sheets of wood under the template and cut through the stack.


Instead we need to transfer relative position from the templates to some of the parts to aid the assembly for accurate position and alignment.The best tools for the job is a small square and a sharp, relatively soft, lead pencil. Having the center line marked on the outside of the transom will help in aligning the keel and rudder.The other components need marks to give the relative position for the bulkheads. This is a good opportunity to trim and fix minor flaws that may have worked its way in at this point. It is good if you can drive pins into it, lay weights or use magnets to hold the chine shelf down flat on the building board or table top.Lay down the Hull Alignment Template on your building board and lay a sheet of wax paper or plastic food film (Seran Wrap or similar) over to prevent the model to stick to the template and your table. Assembly should be a lot easier and almost self explanatory with the template.Align the two halves of the chine shelf on the hull alignment template.
Now I usually only connect one set of those tick-marks, using the other set as a visual guide for bulkhead placement. The position of the stem piece is more important than the bulkhead, so pay extra attention to it.
In the next installment we'll focus on the deck, keel and lower part of the hull structure before moving on to some internal installations and planking. The design makes an interesting project for the amateur builder as the construction method is not difficult. Next it's time to cut out the templates, starting with the bulkheads, transom, keel, deck and chine shelf (Item "A").A word of caution, don't cut too close to the outline at this point. Once your happy with the layout you can pencil in the outline of the templates onto the balsa, or take a picture, so you remember where each piece go.Use the Spray Mount adhesive to glue the templates in place.
Start at the angled peaks and work your way around the perimeter.When sanding, your strokes need to go in one direction only.
Only one line is required per bulkhead, but I typically mark the position for both edges so I don't have to remember if the bulkhead goes in front of or behind the line. Better to remake one erroneous part than an entire assembly, so take your time.Dry fitting also helps you familiarize yourself with the pieces that make up an assemble and help you figure out which order to attach the parts while retaining good alignment and integrity.


I've found the wax paper resist CA glue better, so that's what I use.Secure the sheets to the board with a method suitable for the type of building board you're using - it can be pins, tape, weights etc. The knees should line up with the inner edges of the chine shelf (see pictures), but their placement is not critical.Sometimes the parts will stay in place by themselves, other times they need pins. The sides can be planked in either lapstrake (Plank Overlap) or carvel ( planks butted along their edges) systems.
This step is just to separate the pieces so they can be trimmed later.You don't need the straight-edge, but it is infinitely easier to make a cut if you do, and the risk of slipping and cutting into a template is greatly reduced.
The amount of glue is relatively important - too much glue and you won't be able to get them apart etc.How to make a perpendicular cut through both sheets?Making a perpendicular cut free hand on balsa is difficult.
If you have a scroll saw or band saw it can be put to good use at this step.As the pieces are separated from each other, there will be excess material surrounding the templates. Either way, once the placement is right, attach the pieces with small drops of CA glue at the joints. The Dory 14 is a row boat, but the plans show an alternative transom for an outboard up to 5 hp.
To get to finished size I trim off the last bit with 80 grit sandpaper on a hard sanding block. I often lay the balsa over the edge of my work table and that way have an easier time keeping the angle straight.
The resulting angles will be taken off at the final trim.I also tend to start with the outside shape and do any internal areas last, otherwise the pieces can break and split easily.



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