Well, I obviously missed the Hammapoluza trip in order to get some things done, and after checking out the posts from the get together, I really hope this is going to be worth missing that!
After glassing in the floor, I had to do something about the seams, as they would allow the floor to flex -- a definite no-no if I want to keep carpet in there for any length of time. Another trip to AutoZone and I picked up the fiberglass version of Bondo body filler -- the same stuff I had to use on the nose. Joist mounts worked to stabilize the top portion of the platform, which was cut for two pieces of wood. For the dashboard, I traced the originals onto a solid piece of pine, cut, and rough sanded with 80-grit sand paper, followed by glass resin to finish them. By the time you guys tied into those giant slobs of stripers at Hammy, I was making my first cuts on the carpet.
Unfortunately, I ran out of daylight to snug and glue in the carpet, so this is as far as I got this past weekend.
Remember, all this was and still can be done avoiding marinas all together, as all of the materials used were from hardware stores, Wal-Mart and auto care stores, helping to keep the cost down. I have a 15' 1959 Dorsett Fiberglass boat that I need to rebuild the stringers and deck floor.
I really have a lot of questions, but some mainly pertain to what I want to change with the structure of the boat. I know I shouldnt go overboard being my first time doing this, but alot of what I wouild like to do will play a roll in how I re-lay my stringers and deck floor. In reading up on fiberglassing and cores, I know that I will be encasing the deck in multiple layers of glass and epoxy.
Alot of my concern here is due to how bad the previous floor and stringers got,and how mushy the floor became. Your next question suggests that half a century of durability wasn't sufficient, but I'll try. In all honesty, you have a boat that should be used as furnace fuel at the local land fill.
With todays materials (epoxies, sealants like 3M 5200, 4200 and the products from Sika Industries) you can build a first rate boat without going overboard on the scantlings.
One huge issue with my old Silverton (in the original build circa 1973) was water getting into the cabin in the corners where the cabin sides and side windows meet the windshield. After I rebuilt the entire cabin I exposed the boat to some driving flooding rains that we had here in the fall. I'll straighten this out in the spring, but my point is that what would have been a big problem 30 or 40 years ago is a minor issue today thanks to modern materials and methods. This example gives you an idea of what you can do with modern materials, chemistry and techniques. One thing I did not mention about the boat was that some friends and I bought this about 10 years ago for 800 bucks. Location: Coastal Georgia The first photo showing the bottom seems to show a lot of concavity, but maybe it's an optical illusion.
Location: Coastal Georgia One thing about it is it's age, they don't make 1959 boats anymore. Total cost for the restore about $30,000.00 and I'm using the original engine, trans and v-drive.
Location: Eustis, FL Boy you've sure come a long way with that seemingly monolithic monstrosity you started with MIA. Location: Las Vegas,NV SamSam - yeah i believe right about midship where the front V turns into more of a flat V, it starts to take a bit of a concave look.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.

Every few years I refit my boat, building in a custom non-slip fibreglass floor that doesn’t get hot. The main advantage of course is that I can run around all summer with no shoes AND I can place fish on the deck without running to grab a wet towel or throw a few buckets of water on the floor. It is so important when landing a big fish that you take particular care of her and placing her on hot deck is a definite no no.
And when the fish hooked is a metre barra, you seriously don’t want to be fussing around cooling the deck!
So the best idea, for me anyway, is to build in a fibreglass boat deck that doesn’t get hot.
And when I posted a couple of pictures on facebook of me building the deck, plenty of people asked how to do it. Now I am not an expert fibreglasser, so please excuse me if I am doing this incorrectly or using an old method etc.
I have done this every three or so years to each of my boats and I have my own process and if there is an easier way please feel free to share it. This is just how I do it and have been doing it for many years and it seems to work out OK. I use marine grade ply as I find it lasts longer but I have used structural ply in the past and that works OK too.
I always thicken the resin with industrial talc or flattening agent just to get a nice and thick coat.
I use chopped matt glass and again thicken with talc for the top side, being careful to reseal the edges after I trim off the excess.
Finally I colour tint and thicken some flowcote and stipple roller it when wet so I get a nice rippled non-slip finish.
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Enter your name and email for more fishing tips, tricks and FREE videos straight to your inbox. Ryan Moody started his fishing career on the reef boats before catching bucket list marlin for the likes of champion heavy tackle angler Johnno Johnson, INXS and the King of Sweden. The damage often results in delamination, so tap the area with the back of a screwdriver to see the extent of the damage to the laminate. First off, when you locate the damage you will need to use a small saw to cut away the damage and the surrounding delaminated area (circles work best). You will need to place some sort of “backing” in the hole for supporting the layers of fiberglass as you fix them. Next, it is time to begin the lay-up of the fiberglass layers (which you prepared in step five) and the polyester resin between them. Finally, remove the backer from the surface, fill the imperfections, and add gel-coat paste as needed. In my floor plan, I went with a rear bench, front casting deck layout, just because I like an open boat. The rear bench will actually be nothing more than a platform for mounting seats, but gives the hull even more rigidity.
Hopefully, my next article will be my last and I'll be sending photos of the finished product.
This secluded protion of the hull has sat with water in it for about 8 years, and has now got it's first glimps of daylight since I have cut open a good portion of the deck. I want to put in a threaded fitting, but based on the diameter and placement, I'm worried that the drain hole will sit too high off of the interior hull floor.

When you have to toss this much energy, materials and labor into a hull shell, then you're starting with the wrong hull shell.
Branching out in the late 80's to guided barramundi fishing, Ryan has made a name for himself as a Big Barramundi specialist and to date has put clients onto over 2000 metre plus barra. Ryan Moody does!Sign up for tips plus FREE fishing videos and get on your way to fishing SUCCESS by learning from a man who has caught OVER 2 Kilometres of metre Plus barramundi for his clients! Your boat’s floor can root over the years and so it becomes dangerous for you and your crew to move safely around the vessel.
If you fail to remove the wax, the grinding will get mixed with it and this will cause a weak bond.
Polyester resin usually requires one to two percent of hardener by its cumulative amount (or volume). Never do more than four at a time, and make sure you compress them while also getting out all the bubbles; consider using a squeegee. A lot of thought (and measurement, did I mention beer?) went into building the front deck in order to get rigidity and still have some storage. Hint, invest in stocks from the Bondo company before you start a project like this -- a little return on investment!
I know this happened because of poor initial design, But I plan on glassing in the stringers and encasing the deck correctly now. You're just adding weight and cost, not to mention higher point loading, so unless you have strong evidence to suggest a particular structural element needs to be larger in dimension, then leave the scantlings as they where.
She's looking pretty good now though, way to go big guy, now maybe you'll splash her this summer.
Continue layering up until the repair is flush, and then finish it by cutting some mat and cloth.
The only reason I went with a front opening door as opposed to a top side door was just for added strength. It is very important to assess the damage correctly so you don’t start the repair and by the time you are done you realise you forgot to renovate the foundations for the floor. Sorry Zach, looks like you'll have to win another two tourneys before you can make a shot at a trifecta. They are center cut with a 2-½ inch hole in the middle so the pedestal mount would allow enough room for the seat mount to fit in without going through the bottom of the boat (Jim always comes up with the cool sh*t!). Mainly for the fact that I wanted something stronger and also thicker in order to mount pedistal chairs. Typically the sole plywood is screwed down onto the stringers, to hold it there awhile the epoxy cures.
As you see in the pic, the hull is pretty flat at the transom, and the deck floor is only about 2" above the hull. I stil may get to put to use alot of information I have read in other posts on this forum ! Moisture can start to build up inside the fiberglass cover and just imagine what will come out in a few years. Check out the Fiberglass How-To Guide and Basic Fiberglass Molding Techniques to get a general idea on what you have to do.

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