Location: australia first re-build how do i glue new wood to old glass hull? This sort of work is done by laying up layers of fiberglass cloth over the wood stringers and floors you have fited to 'glue' them to the hull. Bond down the stringers with epoxy thickened with cabosil and use a rounded corner of a paint stick to slick some nice rounded filets down each side. Lay up the laminate over the longitudinal members first with good continuous laminate to insure water won't get to the stringers. When placing the cross members provide some drain holes along side the stringers and amidships to allow water to get aft to a pump.
If the ply deck is really well fastened it will lend a great deal of stiffening to the floor. Location: Eustis, FL Flexing in the hull isn't unusual, in fact it's expected and accounted for in the laminate design. Add some closed cell polyurethane foam to the bow area and under the aft deck area, if you want to.
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16 foot fly fishing rig this is a 16 foot fly fishing boat to be, i got it cheep of ebay and on my first run with a 30 hp yam the hull flexed about 50-100 mm the same with a 15 hp, i was going to ditch it but found my self caught in 20-30 knt winds and very sharp 2-3 mtr wind slop in the lake, and it got me home, so i can trust the hull if i go stedy, but am i doing the right thing with this design?
Some boats are designed to flex a great deal, so they can give a little, with the on coming seas or twist as it rides over rolling waves, etc. These need to be there and are little more then notches on or near the centerline of the boat, to let moisture run aft to a transom drain (you can't have too many weeps). It will provide floatation if you get swamped, but it will do little with the flexing (which is okay).

Try not to add too much weight to this boat, she can only handle so much, before she becomes over burdened and performs like a pig. Some of the rebuilds are pretty extreme with workmanship and top of the line materials being used, too. Since you've made up a new interior and have the pieces ready to install them, go ahead and bond them in with epoxy and cloth tabbing.
Even though you may be sealing in the floor, moisture will find a way to get in there and it should have a way to get out, or it will rot the wood.
You're off to a great start, keep up the good work and send more pictures as you get further along. Coat all the wood with epoxy, including notches, screw holes, everything, with special attention to the end grain areas of the ply, where they are most vulnerable to moisture.
For the tronsom I used two pices of 18 mm stiked togeder with 300 g fiberglass between them.

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