No matter how strong your wooden gate is, its inevitable that gravity will win out and it will start to sag and drag along the ground. The E-Z Brace comes pre-assembled and has two attached pieces of angle that swivel to allow you to mount on either the right or left side depending on where your hinges are located.
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How-To2016 Kitchen Trends Kitchen Countertop Pricing and Materials Guide An Evening in the Kitchen with Miele June Oven 6 Benefits of Custom Cabinetry What’s the Difference Between a Range, Stove and Cooktop? A broken window is not only a security risk; it is also dangerous particularly if there are small children around. You can simply unscrew the hinges of a casement window, but if you have a sash window you will need to remove the beading and prise out the nails holding the sash cord. TIP: When giving measurements to a glass merchant, it is usual to give the height before the width. Once the rebate has dried, you can begin to press a thin, bedding layer of linseed oil putty into the rebate angle. Slide the chisel along the glass to reduce the impact and avoid any damage to the new pane. In some wooden frames, the glass is not held in by putty, but by wooden beading pinned to the frame. To remove the old glass, knock out the larger pieces, then prise off the beading with an old chisel, starting at the centre of each strip. Because they have moving parts, gates are likely to need repair or replacement before the fence itself. The strength of a gate is 80% dependent on the stability of the post which supports the hinges.
For easy, illustrated instructions on how to cement in a fence post, please jump to that part of How to Fix a Wooden Fence. If you need a gate which is wider than six feet, perhaps for a boat trailer, plan a double-door gate with hinges on both sides.
Another gate design (not for the boat gate) is a Dutch door gate split into a top and a bottom. With two posts in place, experiment with the hinges and latch to make sure they will operate in the manner you are anticipating. To build the gate, measure the gap and plan a gate door which is 1" less than that space. Use rectangles of perforated steel plate, known as tie plates to provide extra strength to the corner connections. You can add a cable running across the other diagonal now or after the gate has been working for a while. Once the frame is screwed or nailed together solidly, use blocks of wood to lift it into position for the attachment of the hinges. Now that I think about it, this is one of the only times you have to drill pilot holes on an outdoor woodworking project. With the hinges attached, remove the wooden blocks from the bottom and try out the swinging action. The last step before starting the fence pickets is to cut off the extra height of the fence posts. Do not attempt to butt the fence pickets against one another without leaving space between them for a little expansion from moisture.


Start with outside pickets and stretch a string between their tops to give yourself a line to bring the pickets up to.
The dog-eared tops help to conceal tiny height differences, so you can probably just eyeball the top to make sure it is even. I recommend starting with a single screw to temporarily pin boards to the frame and check if their bottoms scrape as the gate swings open. Here's a sample photo of simple gate with a support cable and turnbuckle but no diagonal brace. As you fill in the gate with pickets, you will likely be left with an odd space requiring the modification of at least one picket.
Despite taking twice as much effort as the fence itself, making a new gate that opens and shuts cleanly is a very satisfying experience. Please register to participate in our discussions with 1.5 million other members - it's free and quick! If you don't have 4 legged pets in your home, and that does not appear to be the work of any rodent, it is better to be safe rather than sorry.
What about water damage---could have caused it to be soft then it "broke off" when hit? We met the inventor of the E-Z Brace, Mark Dwaileebe, at the National Hardware Show and he shared with us how he decided to take matters into his own hand and design a product that is simple and effective in keeping a gate aligned properly.
If your gate starts to sag after install just move the hardware to adjust and your gate will be straight again. This presents no problem if you are working on a ground floor window; but if the broken pane is on an upper floor, it is usually easier to remove the window from its frame.
Start by carefully working loose the large fragments of pane, then tap out the smaller pieces. If the smaller, edge pieces prove difficult to remove, cover the window with a cloth to prevent the glass flying about then smash the fragments down to the facing putty.
Pull out the sprigs — triangular, headless nails that hold the glass in place — with a pair of pincers and clean out the rebate with a stiff brush. Check both the height and the width at at least three points in case the frame is not square.
This way, you can ensure that the pattern is the correct way up (vertical), if you are buying frosted or patterned glass for your window. The putty will need to be of the right consistency — pliable but not sticky — if it is to hold the glass in place and form a watertight seal.
Apply the facing putty in a sausage using the heel of your hand or thumb to press it into position. This will provide a waterproof seal and prevent the putty from shrinking or cracking in the future.
A wide fence is harder to engineer because of the additional weight, but you should at least give yourself a gate wide enough to maneuver a wheelbarrow through. Home depot sells a wide variety of hinges as well as a few shrink-wrapped sets of gate hardware, including hinges and latch.
If you surface-mount the hinges, the latch will need to be on the same side, which should almost always be inside the gated area. It may be tempting to build it with smaller tolerances, but gates always sag over time, and it is preferable to have a gate with a slight gap than one which scrapes by each time it opens. You can check if the gate is square by comparing the diagonal distance between the corners. It should be arranged so that it will span the gap from the lower hinge up to the latch-side top.


Include a turnbuckle so that it will be easy to adjust (tighten) as the fence sags down at the latch end. On most doors, the latch is at a mid-height, but you can move it up if you want to keep it out of reach from children or down if you want to keep it out of reach from outside visitors.
I'm never willing to suggest that one should dismiss the possibility of termites without further inspection of the structure. If you work with the window lying flat on several large pieces of newspaper, clearing the broken glass once you have finished will be a lot easier and safer. The proper tool for this job is a glazier’s hacking knife, but you can do it with a hammer and old wood chisel. Once you have determined the size of the new glass, you will need to paint the rebate with primer —this could take 45 hours to dry, so don’t start the job too late in the day.
Subtract 3mm from the height and width to allow sufficient clearance — 6mm if the frame is slightly warped. Lean it in from the bottom, then push around the outside of the frame, not the centre, with a pad of cloth to protect you from any glass slivers which may be left in the frame.
The latch post doesn't need to be as strong or sturdy, but if you are concreting in one post, you might as well do both. You should be looking for hinges which are about seven inches long, not small hinges nor the largest.
I prefer the hinges to be on the inside so that the gate is somewhat hidden from the street view. The difference between these numbers, in this example 45", is the proper height of your fence frame square.
Judge for yourself if it is better to have the gate pickets two full inches above the ground than to have the gate start to scrape after one month of settling.
And if the frame is an irregular shape, or if you are in any doubt, make a paper template to take along to your glass merchant. The finished height of the facing putty must be no higher than the inside level of the frame, so that it is invisible from the inside. Even if you don't buy the pre-packaged kit, pay attention to what size hinges are included in those. Ideally the top and bottom of the gate will be the same width, but measure it and build a gate to fit the actual space.
This will leave enough wood for the threads to grab onto, but keep the screws from splitting the grain of the wood.
Knead it gently between the palms of your hands or place it between folds of newspaper to remove any excess moisture and oil. Imagine this diagonal brace to be popping up from the hinge post like the branch of a tree. Either orientation will work, but I recommend laying the diagonal brace flat against where the fence pickets will be.
Roll it out in your hand to form a thin sausage, and press a layer about 4mm thick into the rebate.



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