Sailfish powercats were top-five aluminium fishing boats at Australia’s Greatest Boats three years running. I rarely do a fishing boat review where I don’t find myself complaining about a lack of storage for rods. A fishing rod rack that keeps rods out of the way and securely stowed during the bumps and bangs inevitably encountered on fishing trips is neither expensive nor difficult to engineer. Unfortunately, Starboard is expensive if you’re buying a full sheet from a marine wholesaler. Now comes the most difficult part: figuring out where the rack will go, how many rods it will stow, and how to fix it in place. A rack is easily mounted to an aluminium boat with ribs up each side, because it can simply be bolted or pop-riveted to the ribs. With dimensions and fastenings figured, the first job is to mark the rack out on the board using a fine point permanent marker.
Now you need a drill fitted with a hole saw to cut holes for the butts, and to form neat slots to hold your rods in place. Obviously, the length of cord is adjusted so it’s stretched enough to hold rods firmly in place. Before finishing the edges, slots and holes with the router, round any sharp corners with the wood file. The router should be fitted with a bit that’s sized to the radius of each side of the sheeting, so as to leave a small flat on the edge in between. As mentioned previously, fixing the rack in place is generally easier in tinnies (with side ribs), but can require some skill in other boats. In some boats it’s possible to stow rods facing both forward and aft with their tip ends in the slots in the centre of your rack.
The rodholders forming the butt end of my rack penetrated dry stowage space, so I had to seal the ends to stop water entry.
That’s all there is to it for a simple and effective way to preserve your precious fishing gear. The item you are attemping to add to compare is a different subtype to the items(s) in your list.


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Sea fishing rib boat 390Our  rib boat RIB BOAT 390 could fix a driving console,use special material to reinforced,the boat could be safe and stable. With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts. In this Instructable, I will show you how to make a fishing rod holder from some materials you probably already have lying around. You can make great rod holders and sand spikes from pvc, my brothers made them for the front of his truck, inside his boat and attached to a crate he pulls in a wagon for shore fishing, we even attached them to the back of bikes when we were younger using hose clamps. As a fanatical fisherman, it amazes me that an industry capable of building such brilliant boats often ignores the fact that fishermen use expensive gear, often to the tune of thousands of dollars’ worth, and we need somewhere to stow it safely.
Only basic DIY skills are needed to build and install such a thing, along with a few tools that can easily be borrowed if necessary. The best material to use is marine sheeting called "Starboard" that boatbuilders use in a multitude of applications.
Whether you scrounge a well-used one from the kitchen or buy one specifically to build your rod rack, they’re not very expensive at all.
At this point you also need to decide how far apart the rods need to be (so reels don’t damage each other) and how the rack will be fixed to the boat’s interior. Otherwise, a rack may need to be fastened to the side of the boat, the deck or under the sidedeck with brackets. If the butt end of your rack penetrates a bulkhead, you may have to use vertical (90°) flush deck rodholders inserted through the board. The smaller hole (10mm diameter), marked to the left of the picture, will ultimately become a smaller slot to stretch a bungee cord across the rack.
Before you start drilling, note that the bungee must run in a straight line behind the rods in their slots so as to hold them firmly in place. I prefer a tenon saw for cutting because it leaves a finer finish, with nice straight edges. In any case, insulate bolts and washers with a jointing compound such as Duralac.  You need to do this because stainless steel fixings will result in electrolysis with the aluminium.


If the curve of the bow causes rods or reels to rattle against the hull, glue marine carpet over the trouble spot to prevent damage.
Adding a slot at the top for the reel to slide into makes them a little more secure and prevents the rod and reel from spinning.
Look around most boats, particularly large ones, and you’ll notice white plastic sheeting used for doors, hatches, shelves and a myriad of other things.
It’s best to use a board around 15mm thick (or thicker if you can find it) rather than thinner ones because a thicker rack isn’t as likely to mark rod butts. Large reels obviously need more clearance from each other, while smaller estuary and freshwater ones need less. These can be anything from el cheapo plastic models to top-of-the-range stainless steel, depending on your budget. Those two holes at the right will hold the other end (or ends) of the bungee, which are fed through from opposite sides and tied off with an overhand knot. If your rack meets a curved part of the hull, now’s the time to shape the back edge to fit neatly. However, to make it easier to clamp the sheeting in place, it may be better to do as much finishing and router work as you can, then separating the two pieces of your rod rack once everything is finished neatly. Note that I tapered the bottom of my rack away from passing feet, and used costly but durable stainless rodholders where the butt end penetrates a bulkhead. The rack holding a gaff and boat hook in this Cruise Craft above, for example, is shaped from Starboard.
At the other end of the rack, the slots hold rods in place thanks to their angle and a bungee cord stretched across the rack (see below).



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