I would like to give a special thanks to Hans Schuurman for writing the Dutch version of this manual, and to Dick De Bruin for all of his work on the translation. I get a number of inquiries about what woods are good to use, here is some of what I have learned (this is second-hand information, as I do not have personal experience with the woods mentioned).
More so than is the case when building an American Flatbow, the traditional English Longbow requires more skill, as it is much more inclined to break.
However the problem is that good quality yew is very hard if not impossible to come by these days, so I shall not consider it. Always take care to use dry (not desiccated) wood with straight fibres, preferably free from any blemishes whatsoever. The measurements I use are not set law, but based on my experience, acquired while building numerous bows, 29 in all so far.
Band saw, plane, spokeshave, adhesive tape, tapemeasure, glue and various wood files, (straight, half-round and round, c.
Selfbow with separate riser (the thick part in the middle where you grip the bow) 1820x30x20.
The length of the bowstave is suggested at 1820 mm plus or minus 50mm for every inch you pull more or less than 28". Selfbow (bow from one single piece of wood) Same qualities as a laminated bow (see C) except that you do not have to glue on a separate backing and riser. In the meantime you may decide to make the riser, using a nice bit of tropical hardwood or else the same wood as that used for the construction of the belly. During the next stage you are required to draw a heart-line (a line bisecting the bowstave from top to bottom) on the backing. Draw the profile of the front of the bow on the backing, and give it its rough shape using either the band saw or the plane or both,.
Afterwards check with the string to see if the heart-line still runs straight, if not, make the necessary corrections to the delineation of the limbs i.e. If everything is satisfactory, you should proceed by delineating the side profile of the bow and carefully plane the bow to its required thickness. Now it is time to draw a very thick heart-line along the entire belly and give the belly its rough rounding using a very finely adjusted spokeshave.
Use the 3 or 4 mm round wood file to apply temporary slots to hold the string at about 6 mm from the ends of the limbs. Once you have reached this stage, it would be very unwise to draw the bow to your full draw length.
Try to obtain two cow horns or a set of antlers (your butcher may come in handy at this stage, or the slaughterhouse).
Then disengage the horn nocks from their sticks by immersing them in boiling water for about one minute and pulling them free. After a while when everything is dry and has cooled down, clean the hole and scour it with refined petrol or a degreaser.
In the case of a selfbow, the height has to exceed the breadth of the stave as the riser will have to be fashioned, so a lot more planing and scraping is required. Tillering - giving the limbs the required bend by means of sanding or scraping with a spokeshave.
In making of this crossbow it is best to use maple for the stock, but if this wood cannot be procured, good straight-grained pine will do.


The piece of maple or pine selected for the stock must be planed and sandpapered on both sides, and then marked and cut as shown in Fig. To throw the arrow, insert the cord near the knot in the notch of the arrow, then grasping the stick with the right hand and holding the wing of the arrow with the left, as shown in Fig. Excerpt from the book:THE BOY MECHANICVOLUME I700 THINGS FOR BOYS TO DOWITH 800 ILLUSTRATIONS1913, BY H. With two suitcases, three carry-ons, a diaper bag, a double-stroller, and a pair of additional car seats, the van was packed, too packed for a shovel.
A bittersweet week in Madison as the famed octopus signs from the Octopus car washes are coming down. Though your lawn itself may not be growing at an accelerated rate, the roots and rhizomes are going nutso beneath the surface. The elasticity of the backing and the compressibility of the belly should be considerable, so that the wood one uses has to meet very high standards.
Also, bows consisting of more than two laminations are outside the scope of this little manual. If you decide to build a bow of category C, the surfaces of both backing and belly that need to be glued together should be smooth, but not too smooth in connection with the adhesion of the glue. At this stage, bevel the riser on both sides and glue to the belly after sanding and scouring (see above).
One way of doing so is by stretching a piece of string along the backing and carefully tracing it with a pencil. The depth of the groove on the backing should be 1 mm, 2 mm on the sides at an angle of 45 degrees and "fading out" to 0 mm. 6, place the arrow in the groove, sight and pull the trigger as in shooting an ordinary gun.
Her mom is a wild, Californian sea otter that sought refuge in the pool to shield her against other animals and the stormy days.
Every lawn is different, so if youa€™ve got some problem weeds, dona€™t ignore that bag of weed-and-feed. You know youa€™re going to need fertilizer and planting soil and lawn mower maintenance kits, so buy them now while most stores are liquidating the inventory. For thousands of years yew was used to build bows, as its sapwood possesses a high degree of elasticity and its heartwood can be compressed without much trouble.
Whalebone Greenheart or else Bullet- or Beefwood), Satinwood or Rosewood for the belly (the inside of the bow). Sand them (wrap sandpaper 100 grain around a piece of flat wood or cork) in order to prevent rounding to the side. If it takes your fancy you may make an arrow plate out of ivory, bone, mother of pearl, or silver.
The ola€™ mini van stood tall in the face of Ashleya€™s 13+ inch assault, though the ripple effect was felt, snow piled high on the sides and behinda€¦drifting and plowinga€¦quite the pile-up. Like your grass, weeds are supercharging in the fall, and attacking them will be quite effective this time of year. Sure you might get some looks from the neighbors when your turning the auger in 65 degree weather, but it's worth it.
It goes without saying that the measurements meet the requirements of the British Longbow Society.


See to it that both surfaces are free from dust and scour them with refined petrol or another type of degreaser. Then round off the belly properly by means of coarse abrasive cloth (80 grain), applying it at right angles to the heart-line.
If necessary make the necessary corrections (sand it down a little until the limbs again bend equally, the upper limb slightly more than the lower) finish sanding the bow using 180 grain sandpaper. However, if you do make an arrow plate, do not chisel deeper than 2 mm to avoid any risk of breaking the bow. A Itasca County Sheriff Vic Williams gives a public warning about the current ice conditions. For most dig out conditions, like long-term airport parking, the garden trowel provides plenty of clearing ability and great ice-chipping leverage, and it stores under the seat or often in a glove box or easily in a backpack if you're a winter hiking, snowshoeing, or camping enthusiast. If youa€™re wondering which fertilizer to use, dona€™t overthink it a€“ anything is better than nothing, and most companies make it easy on you, offering a€?winterizer" blends.
If youa€™re a do-it-yourselfer, you will save a lot of money by preparing for spring right now. Next, apply a thin layer of Polyurethane construction glue (or an equivalent) to both surfaces.
Sand the belly along its length with 100 grain sandpaper and perform the same action on the backing. Leave the bow strung for a few hours while you draw it out to half your draw length once in a while. Clamp the sticks carrying the horns in your workmate and shape the nocks (see drawing) using files and sandpaper. Glue a 5 mm layer of cork to the backing, to produce a grip and finish it with sandpaper or abrasive cloth (see drawing).
Then clamp them together by wrapping around tightly with adhesive tape, allow the glue to dry for 24 hours, during which time the bowstave must be fixed to a flat surface. Sand the finished product smooth with sandpaper (up to 400 grain), polish with abrasive liquid or toothpaste.
The tin is bent and fastened on the wood at the back end of the groove where the cord slips out of the notch; this is to keep the edges from splitting. The arrows are practically the same as those used on the crossbow, with the exception of a small notch which is cut in them as shown in Fig. Should it require too much strength, continue the tillering process until it meets your expectations. Please keep in mind that it will lose a few pounds because it will slightly follow the stringv after some use.
A stout cord is now tied in the notches cut in the ends of the bow making the cord taut when the wood is straight. When the trigger is pulled, it lifts the spring up, which in turn lifts the cord off the tin notch.



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