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You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. When I open the radiator cap I see some oil on the radiator cap, will this product helps to prevent this? You have a leak between your oil and water systems, this is usually due to a defective head gasket or issues with your water pump seal.
There is no way of knowing whether this product will definitely fix your problems, but if you can't get to a garage for a permenant fix it will almost certainly help and could remove the problems altogether until you can get your issue looked at. 9 October 2015 I know egg white and curry powder and ground cork and dried Marmite all work, but for a couple of quid definitely worth keeping some of this stuff in your toolkit. If you make a video review of this product and it's good enough for us to publish here we will give you a £20 voucher to spend in our shop. Adventure-Spec supply expedition proven products to customers virtually ANYWHERE in the world. At this point if you have chosen to ship outside the EU all UK taxes will be removed and the total provided for shipping and goods to the country and location of your choice. GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 8DOMESTIC ICEMAKERS8-1 ICEMAKER TYPESIcemakers are divided into two basic types; flex-tray and hard tray.
GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 2TROUBLESHOOTING TOOLS AND SAFETYTIPS AND TRICKSLets talk aluminum foil for a minute. DIY drain and refill manual transmission gear oil for Jetta, New beetle, Golf (4th generation cars and similar Audi)This article shows how to change your manual transmission gear oil on VW TDI Jetta. If your car is a pumpe duse and is 2004-2005 you can use 2 types: (VW# g 060 726 a2 is the current synthetic oil (thanks for the tip heychris!), g 052 171 a2 is the old synthetic oil) (VW# g052 726 a2 is the mineral oil).
VW is constantly changing their gear oil spec for whatever reason and contradicting themselves so just use whatever you want as long as it's GL-4. From thickest to thinnest, here is a list of gear oil viscosity at average working temperatures. Engage the parking brake, chock the wheels, jack up the car using the factory jack points, rest car securely on jack stands, and make sure the car is safe and secure before doing anything else. Clean the area around the fill and drain holes or else dirt can get into the transmission fill hole. Use a short length of hose, just longer than what is needed to go from the bottom corner of the bottle to the transmission fill hole. Poke a hole slightly smaller than the hose in the cap (smaller is better for a tight air seal), and a small hole (again, smaller is better) in the top of the bottle, marked by the green arrow in the below picture. Now press the compressed air nozzle into the hole in the top of the bottle marked with the green arrow in the picture above.
Note that the fill hole end of the hose has a coat hanger bent into an s-shape (so it stays in place) with a hook at the end. Once the gear oil comes out of the drain hole (assuming the car is level) or you have added enough gear oil, stop and put the cleaned fill plug back. When you go to the next bottle, just poke another air intake hole in the next bottle and transfer the cap. When putting the fill and drain plugs back, you can wrap the threads once or twice with teflon tape to help ensure no leaks. After you're done, hang the hose with a paper towel or two on the end and let it drip dry. Contact the seller- opens in a new window or tab and request a shipping method to your location. You have read and agree to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount.
Recently I had a engine repair Chang gasket and stuff, by I see some of bubbles are coming when the car is about to start the radiator fan.
It may not display this or other websites correctly.You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. If it is you need to fix the problem as quickly as you can and replace the oil as your engine will be wearing very quickly. Also like manual molds, when it comes time to eject (harvest) the ice from the mold, it invertsand twists, "popping" out the ice. The tray then turns back upright and refills with water for the next freeze cycle.HARD-TRAYHard-tray icemakers have a metal ice mold which is coated with a non-stick coating. But even in an oven with natural convection, it can mess up airflow and cooking and even cause burners to malfunction. If you simply must line the bottom of your oven with foil, at least poke holes in it where there are holes in the oven floor. They're there for a reason.2-1 BASIC REPAIR AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS1) When working on gas cooking equipment, if you've disconnected a gas pipe to replace a valve or other component, always test the pipe joint for leaks when you reassemble it. The amount of time spent in the freeze cycle is controlled by a number of factors depending on the individual design, but it is best explained by knowing how the harvest cycle is triggered.HARVEST CYCLEThe harvest cycle occurs when the ice is ejected from the ice mold. You can do this by coating the joint with a solution of liquid soap and water and looking for bubbles.
Apply it with a brush to make sure you coat the joint thoroughly, and use a mirror to look at the back side of the joint if necessary. Your appliance parts dealer has gas leak testing solution, with a brush built into the cap, made specifically for this purpose. 2) Always de-energize (pull the plug or trip the breaker on) any oven that you're disassembling. If you need to re-energize the oven to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated.
Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 3) If this manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!! However, it should be noted that the accumulation of "run" time is, in one way or another, thermostatically controlled. For example, Admiral-type flex-tray machines have a thermostat in line with the icemaker timing and drive motor that opens at 19 degrees, and doesn't close again till the freezer temperature drops to 15 degrees. There is a reason that it stopped - you can bet on it - and if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will fail again.
A thermostat pressed against the ice mold senses that it is cold enough to ensure that the ice is frozen.
When the harvest mechanism contacts the ice, it stalls until the ice melts enough to release it from the mold. Replace the part. 4) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component. Cubes in the bin might occasionally stick together a little bit because of this liquefication, but they should be easy to separate.In a hard-tray icemaker, the thermostatstartsthe harvest cycle, but it does notendthe cycle. The mold heater would open the thermostat and end the cycle way too early; long before the mold was refilled.
When the thermostat begins the harvest cycle, a cam attached to the drive motor closes a "holding" switch.
Wear gloves, and be careful not to cut your hands! 6) If you have diagnosed a certain part to be bad, but you cannot figure out how to remove it, sometimes it helps to get the new part and examine it for mounting holes or other clues as to how it may be mounted. 7) When testing for a 110 volt power supply from a wall outlet, you can plug in a small appliance such as a shaver or blow dryer. This switch keeps the drive motor turning until the ice is harvested and the mold refills with water. When the ejection mechanism is reset, the mold is refilled and the cam reaches the proper position, the cam allows the holding switch to open. If you're testing for 220 volt power you need to use the VOM. 8) When splicing wires in an oven, remember that you're dealing with high temperatures. This ends the fill cycle and begins the freeze cycle.FILL CYCLE AND FILL VALVETowards the end of the harvest cycle, a cam on the drive mechanism closes the fill switch. This switch opens a fill solenoid valve, usually located on the back of the fridge, at the bottom. Your parts dealer has high-temp connections, porcelain wire nuts and fiberglass-insulated wire for this purpose. I want to impress upon you something really important. The shape of the cam that closes the fill switch controls the length of time the valve stays open. A flow control washer within the valve adjusts the flow for variations in house water pressure, so that the same amount of water flows through the valve regardless of water pressure.
It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good.
After a repair, you can't stand there with the freezer door open, waiting for the next harvest cycle, to make sure the machine is working properly. Most icemakers are temperature-sensitive, and as the freezer temperature rises and falls, this sensitivity can cause symptoms to be intermittent.Icemakers can behave erratically, and be difficult to diagnose because of it. But a basic understanding of how a particular design operates can go a long way towards removing the mystery of intermittent malfunctions. Knowing how the icemakershouldoperate may point you towards whatisn'toperating correctly.Has the fridge or freezer seemed warmer or colder than usual?
This can point towards refrigerator problems other than the icemaker, such as defrost or sealed system problems. Any higher, and the ice may not freeze fast enough or the thermostat may not trigger a harvest cycle.
However, you don't want to badger them with too many questions, so know your basics before you start asking questions. Some parts houses may offer service, too.
Any lower, and the cold may migrate into the refrigerator compartment.Has the freezer or refrigerator door been opened a lot? In some circumstances, this can keep the freezer temperature too high and cause slow or no ice production, or "shelling," where the cube has not frozen completely before the harvest cycle begins.Do not yet discard any "slabbed" ice. They'll tell you it's too complicated, then in the same breath "guide" you to their service department. The ice cubes are "shelling," or not freezing completely before the harvest cycle tries to eject them from the mold. If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself, and you find that you're unable to, they may be the best place to look for service. See section 8-2(b).D) The fill tube keeps filling with ice and blocking the flow of fill water.
See section 8-4.8-2(a) SLABBINGThis generally occurs when the ice is not ejecting from the ice mold properly. On some models, you will also need the lot number to get the right part, so if there is one on the nameplate, write that down, too.2-3 TOOLS (Figure 2-A)Most of the tools that you might need are shown below. If there are cubes left in the ice mold after a harvest cycle, the new waterfill will overfill the mold for the next batch.
Depending on the design, this may cause the mold to overflow, or it may just cause a thick sheet of ice to fuse together the tops of the cubes too solidly.
In this case, the icemaker can jam and the problem can compound itself rapidly.This can be caused by a number of factors.
An inexpensive one will suffice, as long as it has both "AC Voltage" and "Resistance" (i.e.
This can simply prevent the ice from dropping into the bin, (Figure S-1) or it can interfere with the ice level sensor arm, preventing the icemaker from shutting off when the bin is full.
Both hard-tray and flex-tray machines are prone to this problem; it is caused by impurities in the fill water. The problem can get so bad that you may see black or gray flakes and sediment in the cubes.


In both hard- and flex-tray machines, the solution is usually to replace the ice mold, or just the entire icemaker. If you do this, rinse the mold with a weak chlorine bleach solution and flush with copious amounts of water before you put the mold back into service. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. The next fill will then cause overfill, and slabbing symptoms may develop.Low water pressure can also cause the valve to leak, sometimes badly enough to overfill or overflow the ice mold. Remember the rule in section 2-1; while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair.
See Section 8-2(c), section 8-3 and Figure S-4.8-2(b) SHELLINGHollow cubes, or "shelling" can occur if the ice cubes are not fully frozen when the harvest cycle begins.
You will only need to be able to set the VOM onto the right scale, touch the test leads to the right place and read the meter.In using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for our purposes, the two test leads are always plugged into the "+" and "-" holes on the VOM.
Depending on the design, either the harvest cycle is being triggered prematurely, or the cube is not freezing in the allotted time.Shelling may be an early sign of defrost, sealed system or other cooling problems of the refrigerator itself, especially in flex-tray machines.
The freezer vents in flex-tray machines must direct cold air directly at the surface of the water or the mold, to insure that it will freeze in the alloted time. Check that nothing is blocking the airstream and that the freezer vent directing air over the icemaker is not damaged, missing or misdirected.In hard-tray machines with shelling symptoms, ice or water left in the mold after harvest may cause overfill and slabbing problems. Shelling is usually a sign of low waterfill, which allows the mold to get colder faster, triggering the thermostat into a harvest cycle too quickly.
Check and adjust the water level (sections 8-5 thru 8-8) or check for low water pressure or the incorrect water valve. It's derived from the word "continuous." In an electrical circuit, electricity has to flow from a power source back to that power source. Over time it will freeze the tube completely shut.To melt the ice from the tube and clear it, you can use a blow dryer, or blow hot water into the tube with a turkey baster. It should peg the meter all the way on the right side of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" or "ohms" scale. If the meter does not read zero ohms, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero. Sediment from improper installation or low water pressure may prevent the valve from closing fully. If the ignitor's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something.
If you have this symptom, especially if it returns after clearing the ice blockage once, start checking for water supply pressure or sediment problems. You can touch the ends of the wires and test leads with your hands if necessary to get better contact. I've seen people tap into hot water pipes, but the piping should be long enough so that water does not fill the icemaker while hot, or the water may not freeze fast enough. If there is GOOD continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scale and steady on a reading. It is far better to use a cold water line if possible."Saddle valves" are often used on a new installation to pierce into an existing pipe, (Figure F-1) and generally work pretty well. This is the resistance reading and it doesn't concern us; we only care that we show good continuity. However, you must be careful of using dissimilar metals; for example a copper valve on a galvanized steel pipe. A water supply drawn from a saddle valve on a galvanized pipe is an invitation to scale and sediment problems.Similarly, a saddle valve installed too close to a hot water tank can pick up calcium sediments from the tank itself.
If you do not, the switch is bad. 2-4(c) AMMETERSAmmeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory. Scale and sediments can block the saddle valve and cause low water flow.Low water flow through the saddle valve may cause the same symptoms as low water pressure at the solenoid valve inlet. If you own an ammeter, you probably already know how to use it. If you don't, don't get one. They can also get into the solenoid valve seat and prevent the valve from closing fully, causing symptoms from fill tube freeze to slabbing.
However, the only long term solution is to secure a better supply, directly from a copper cold-water pipe if possible. To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the current going through any other components) and see if there's any current flow. To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). It's a little cheaper, easier to cut and install, and less prone to leakage when you have to move the refrigerator.
However, some people feel it's more prone to leakage than copper simply because the material is stronger.
That's not been my experience, but it's your call.If you do use plastic, make sure you insert the brass sleeves into the ends (Figure F-2) before installing the compression fittings. Without them, the ends of the plastic could collapse and leak.HOT WATER OR COLD?I've seen people tap into hot water lines to feed the icemaker, but I highly recommendagainstit. If the meter shows any reading at all, something in the oven is using power.2-5 WIRING DIAGRAMSometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something. But when the temperature of the water drops, the heat flow slows to the same rate as if you had just filled it with cool water in the first place. The symbols used to represent each component are pretty universal. Wire colors are abbreviated and shown next to each wire. Common complaints and contaminants are chlorine, rust, sand, dirt, sediment, dissolved calcium, organic substances such as PCB's, THM's, herbicides and pesticides, chloramines and detergents, causing bad taste, odors or even health hazards. This book is not intended to be a primer on water filtration; I would in no waybegin to try to pretendto be able advise you what contaminants you need to guard against in your area.
GR or GN are green, GY is gray.A wire color with a dash or a slash means --- with a --- stripe. For that, you need to hire a water chemist, or talk to your water company or neighbors who might have been through this already. These contaminants you can pick up independent of what your water company supplies you, through old or inadequate water piping or other house conditions. In some wiring diagrams, wiring and switches inside a timer or other switchblocks are drawn with lines that are thicker than the rest of the wiring. The small white circles all over the diagram are terminals.
These are places where you can disconnect the wire from the component for testing purposes. You don't think the pipefitters washed all the bugs and dirt out of the tubing before they brazed it in place, do you?INLINE AND UNDER-SINK (CARTRIDGE) FILTERS(Figures F-3 and F-4)In my opinion, about the only good thing about inline filters (vs. If two wires cross on the diagram without a black dot, they are not connected. Switches may be numbered or lettered. Usually the terminals on the outside of the timer or switch are stamped or printed with markings that you will see on the wiring diagram. To test a switch, mark and disconnect all the wires. Being behind the fridge instead of under the sink, they are harder to get to, and easier toforgetto change.Cartridge-type filters, on the other hand, have replacable cartridges which are relatively easy to get to and change. Some even have water shutoff valves built right into them to make filter changing even faster and easier. For example, in figure 2-F, if you want to test the door switch, take power off the machine, disconnect the wires from it and connect one test lead to COM and one to NC. They are little, if any, more difficult to install initially, and replacement cartridges usually cost less than a new inline filter. If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good. Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit.
You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet back TO the wall outlet. When the new membrane is new, probably half of the water that enters the RO system goes down the drain to flush themembrane. If you don't change the elements frequently, then when the membrane gets older and plugged with contaminants, as much as 15 to 20timesas much water goes down the drain as comes out the faucet.
In this simplified circuit diagram, notice that only the heating elements operate on 220 volts. Also, water flows through the RO membrane very slowly, so it can drop water pressure at the tap considerably.Most manufacturers recommend AGAINST an icemaker water supply coming from an RO system. I have been personally using an RO system on my Whirlpool crescent cube icemaker for two years now and I am tickled with the results; ice as clear and clean tasting as our drinking water, and no scale or calcium deposits. But if you understand the risks, and the RO system doesn't drop the water pressure too low, it can be done.8-3(b) FILL SOLENOID VALVEWater fill volume is controlled by a couple of things. For one, the length of time the valve stays open, which is usually controlled by a cam in the icemaker head, which closes a switch for the proper amount of time. Since the locking mechanism is interlocked with the heating circuit, the oven will not reach cleaning temperature either.Let's start at the lock motor and find out which switches feed electricity to it. Aflow control washerwithin the valve adjusts the flow for variations in house water pressure. However, if the water pressure is below about 20 psi at the solenoid valve inlet, problems can occur. Tracing the other lock motor lead, we first end up at the "C" terminal of the 4-position selector switch.
Looking at the switch for the chart, the "C" to "LM" contacts are closed when the "clean" button is depressed on the switch.
If the cube is too small, it may not eject properly, and the next fill may cause overfill.Water solenoids operate using a pressure diaphragm with pressure on both sides of the diaphragm. Power then leaves the thermostat through the "5" terminal, so we need to check for continuity between terminals "5" and "6" of the thermostat.
Since it is a thermostatic switch, only heat will open the switch, so we only need to test it for continuity.
Different icemakers require a wide variety of fill volumes, from about 3 ounces in certain GE units to as much as 8 ounces in Admiral-type machines. The valve bodies might look the same from the outside, but you must make sure the valve is the correct one (has the correct flow control washer) for the icemaker you're working on. They are shown in the diagram in their "normal state." So continuing with our circuit, if the locking motor is not turning, you need to check switch "B" for continuity between the "COM" and "NC" terminals. If someone has previously replaced the solenoid valve, and you experience low flow problems or slabbing in an icemaker, double check that the valve is the correct one.
If there is no continuity, it might mean the switch is bad. It might also mean that the switch was not returned to its "normal" state the last time it was activated!You need to examine the switch carefully to determine what the problem is.
If the locking motor stopped turning before the switch unlocked, you've got other problems. This is acriticallyimportant point.8-3(c) TESTING AND ADJUSTING FILL VOLUMETo test fill volume, remove the icemaker from its freezer wall mounting (but leave it plugged in) and initiate a harvest cycle if possible. You will need to trace other circuits in the diagram to figure out what. From the "COM" terminal of switch "B," the circuit goes back through the door switch to L1.
Baby bottles are generally just about the right size for testing fill volume; most are graduated in both cc's and ounces. The door switch feeds several other oven circuits, too, so unless there's something else not working, we can eliminate that as the problem. A good rule of thumb is that one fluid ounce equals about 30 cc's.Water fill level can be adjusted onsomeicemakers. See sections 8-5 thru 8-8 about your design.8-4 SLOW OR NO ICE PRODUCTIONThere are a number of things that will slow or stop the production of ice.
The door must be closed to close the switch that feeds electricity to the thermostats and heating circuit.To check for a wire break, you would pull each end of a wire off the component and test for continuity through the wire.
If you are working on an icemaker where you can do so, a good start is to try to manually trigger a harvest cycle and watch what happens. You may need to use jumpers to extend or even bypass the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine.
However, there a few common causes.8-4(a) FREEZER TEMPERATURECheck the freezer temperature. It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is - there is no magic way. In most icemakers, a freezer temperature above about 15 degrees may cause icemakers not to harvest or to have other ice production problems. If the freezer temperature is hovering right around the thermostat temperature setting, the icemaker's thermostat may open and close, causing slow or intermittent ice production. If the freezer temperature is not low enough, check the refrigerator's temperature settings.High freezer temperatures may also mean that therefrigeratorhas cooling problems such as defrost or sealed system malfunctions. If adjusting the controls doesn't lower the freezer temperature, see Chapters 4 and 5.8-4(b) POWER SUPPLYCheck that the icemaker is getting power.
Unplug it from the freezer wall socket and see if you have power between at least two of the terminals.8-4(c) WATER SUPPLYCheck also that the icemaker is getting water.


An ammeter is a safer way to test energized circuits if you have one, especially testing 220 volt circuits. If possible, unmount the icemaker from the freezer wall and manually initiate a harvest cycle. Occasionally, if the component is inexpensive enough, it's easier to just replace it and see if that solves the problem. Following is a primer on how to test each individual component you might find in any given oven. Take all wires off the component and test continuity across it as described in section 2-4(b). Switches should show good continuity when closed and no continuity when open.
NO means "normally open" and with the switch at rest, you will see no continuity through it. SELECTOR SWITCHBLOCKS A selector switchblock, located in the control panel, is a group of switches all molded into one housing. In your oven, a switchblock might be used to allow you to choose a cooktop heat setting, for example, or a cleaning cycle instead of a baking cycle. You must look at the wiring diagram to see which of the terminals will be connected when the internal switches are closed. Keep in mind, however, that you must also know which of the internal switches close when an external button is pressed. When you press one button on the switchblock, several of the switches inside may close at once.To test a switchblock, in addition to the wiring diagram, you must have a chart that gives you this info.
Usually this is a part of the wiring diagram. Using the diagram and chart in figure 2-J, lets say we want to test contacts "T1" to "FM" for proper operation. We see that with the "clean" button pressed, these contacts inside the switchblock should be closed. The electronic one has a circuit board and an on-off rocker switch on the right side of the icemaker head.Most of the symptoms and the malfunctions between the three designs are similar. However, the internal differences between them are pretty pronounced, so testing and troubleshooting are quite different.8-5(a) MODULAR CRESCENT CUBE DESIGN OPERATIONThe harvest cycle on these icemakers is thermostatically triggered. Very shortly thereafter, a cam on the drive shaft closes the holding switch, keeping the motor circuit energized even after the thermostat opens back up. Although error (fault) codes for most major brands may be found in Chapter 7, usually diagnosis consists of simply replacing circuit components until you find the bad one. Usually the problem turns out to be a bad oven sensor, stuck or defective keypad, ERC (clock) unit or a circuit board.
The motor then stalls, with the ejection fingers applying pressure to the ice, until the mold heats up enough for the cubes to separate from the mold. These can be tested and rebuilt or replaced as described in this chapter.2-6 (c) THERMOSTATIC CONTROLSA thermostat is simply a switch or a gas valve that opens and closes according to the temperature it senses.
If the ice level in the bin is too high, or if you raise the arm to the shutoff position, this switch opens and interrupts the thermostat circuit. The icemaker then will not enter a harvest cycle until the sensor arm is allowed to return to its full down position. If there is an automatic oven cycle, main control thermostats must also be wired through the timer.
During the harvest cycle, a cam raises the sensor arm and opens the shut-off switch, but the holding switch keeps the motor turning. And if there is a cleaning cycle, they must be either bypassed or adjusted for the higher temperatures of that cycle.
That's where you start to get dual-control thermostats, thermostats with twelve leads, and other complexities. There is an adjustment screw on the right side of the icemaker head; one full turn equals 40cc's. Some models have water level adjustment dials on the right side of the plastic icemaker head cover that attach to this screw. Some even control two levels of the same pilot. Main control thermostats are about the most expensive commonly-replaced parts in an oven. This screw simply moves the fill switch closer to the cam on the drive shaft, keeping it open longer, or vice-versa.
The maximum adjustment on these machines is one full turn in either direction; any more will damage the icemaker head. It should be the last thing you conclude, after you have checked out everything else in the system.The liquid inside the bulb and capillary of an oven thermostat is usually a mercury or sodium compound or some other such nasty and dangerous stuff.
When adjusting the level, do it gently and do not attempt to force it AT ALL.TROUBLESHOOTINGAside from water supply problems, what usually goes wrong with these machines is that the thermostat (bimetal) fails.
So when you replace an oven thermostat, do not cut open the capillary or bulb, and dispose of the old thermostat properly.
The definition of "properly" varies between jurisdictions, but check with your appliance parts dealer or local fire department hazardous materials professionals.ADJUSTING THERMOSTATS The oven is adjusted by a small adjusting screw in the center of the oven thermostat valve stem. To jump the thermostat and trigger a harvest cycle, just jumper between the T and H test point holes. In other words, if you set the thermostat at 350 degrees, you want the heating system to cycle on if the temperature is below 340 degrees, and off when the temperature reaches about 360 degrees. With nothing else in the oven, place it in the middle of the oven, where you can see it through the oven door glass.
In this case, you would see the ejection fingers pressed against the ice, trying to eject it, but it would not eject.
Under power, test for line voltage between the L and H test point holes; if it is energized, then power is going to the heater. The important thing to remember about clocks in an oven unit are that often the thermostat controls are first wired through the timer.
Unplug and test for resistance between the same test points; the heater should test 72 ohms.
If not, replace the mold.If the drive motor isn't turning at a time when it should be, test for 110 volts between L and M to see if the motor is energized. Also, if you are troubleshooting a no heat complaint in an oven with an automatic cycle, the first step is always to check the timer controls.
The woman who greeted me was the ultimate Susie homemaker; everything was spotless in HER kitchen.
Including the oven, which looked new, but this gal swore she'd owned it since it was new 35 years before, and by golly she knew it inside and out and didn't know why two ovens out of three suddenly didn't work. Some have water level adjustment dials on the right side of the plastic icemaker head cover.The harvest cycle on these icemakers is thermostatically triggered. Very shortly thereafter, a cam on the drive shaft closes the holding switch, keeping the motor circuit energized and turning even after the thermostat opens back up. You must have a wiring diagram to determine which terminals are connected when a switch inside the timer closes.
Put a resistance meter across those terminals and advance the clock to determine if the switch is opening and closing. The fingers then continue pushing the ice out of the mold.The thermostat stays closed throughout the first rotation of the ejection fingers.
If the clock motor doesn't run or the switches don't open and close as they are supposed to, replace the timer.
Near the completion of the first rotation, another cam attached to the driveshaft closes the fill switch, butwater fill does not occur. The shutoff switch is closed, and offers a lot less resistance than the water valve circuit. Near the completion of the second rotation, the fill switch closes again for about 7-8 seconds, and this time the mold fills with water. If there are any special wiring changes, they will be explained in instructions that come with the new timer. Clocks and timers can usually be rebuilt.
Ask your appliance parts dealer for details.2-6 (e) ELECTRIC HEATERS AND IGNITORSElectric heater elements and ignitors are tested by measuring continuity across them as described in section 2-5(b).
Replace heater elements if they show no continuity.2-6 (f) RELAYSHeating elements use a lot of electricity compared to other electrical components. During the harvest cycle, a cam raises the sensor arm and opens the shut-off switch, but the holding switch is still closed, which keeps the motor turning.
The switches that control them sometimes need to be built bigger than other kinds of switches, with more capacity to carry more electricity. The switches involved in running a heater or ignitor can be too big to conveniently put inside the control console or timer. Besides that, there are safety considerations involved in having you touch a switch that carries that much electricity directly, with your finger. The way they solve that problem is to make a secondary switch. A little switch activates an electromagnet, which closes a big switch that carries the heavier current load.
When you remove the plastic cover, you will see the motor gear turning and disengaged from the larger ejection drive gear. The motor gear can be pressed back on and glued with superglue.Some of these machines have a "chiclet"-type thermal fuse (figure X-8) attached to the underside of the ice mold, near the icemaker head.
If this fuse blows, the icemaker will not harvest, nor will the motor start when you try to manually initiate a harvest cycle.
The other two microswitches are the waterfill switch and the holding switch, both cam-operated. Fortunately, they're pretty much commodity items at this point, and can be replaced for well under a hundred bucks.8-6 GE "BULLET" OR "BARREL" CUBE MACHINESThese machines produce five cylindrical cubes per harvest.
If there is an ice dispenser in the door, you may need to turn down the crescent cube size a little to get the cubes to go through the door properly.OPERATIONThe harvest cycle begins thermostatically at about 16 degrees. An ejection shaft through the bottom of the ice mold is attached to an ejection pad, which pushes the cubes vertically from the mold.
Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 3) If this manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!! During the harvest cycle, the mechanism raises the sensor arm and opens the shut-off switch, but the holding switch keeps the motor turning.
The icemaker will not be producing ice, and you're sure the freezer is cold enough, but manually jumping the thermostat produces a harvest.There are two test connections on the underside of the icemaker head.
In both, a small rectangular plug in the bottom of the icemaker head can be removed to reveal two small holes. When the harvest cycle is initiated, it takes about eight minutes for the tray to rotate completely around and refill. Above 19 degrees, it will not produce ice at all.You can tell if the motor is turning by looking at the end of the motor shaft as shown on the illustration. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good. There is an adjustment screw on the right side of the head, but the factory glues it in place during construction.
In fact, the factory doesn't want you messing with these machines at all; if they malfunction, the solution is to replace them. I have had a couple of these icemakers apart and I'd have to agree with the factory in this case. After you replace your old one, try pulling it apart and reassembling it and you'll see what I mean.A conversion kit is available to convert the refrigerator to a crescent-cube design, and I would highly recommend it. Instructions will be included in the conversion kit.During the harvest cycle in this design, the twisting action of the ice tray ends with a relatively violent SNAP! Over time this can have several adverse effects.The icemaker can begin to pull its wall mounts out of the freezer wall.
Cubes on the high side of the mold may be too small, while cubes on the low side may be too large or even slab together, and fail to eject.The plastic mold (tray) can crack, especially around the hub.
If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself, and you find that you're unable to, they may be the best place to look for service. If it is, there are a number of things that could be causing the icemaker to stop making cubes, but the solution to all of them seems to be to throw a new gear and pin set in both the front and back of the icemaker head. Gear alignment instructions are included with the new gears.There is no way to manually initiate a harvest cycle in these machines.
When you replace and realign the gears and reinstall the icemaker, it will immediately enter a harvest cycle and fill with water.Time only accumulates on these icemakers when the cold control (the refrigerator's thermostat) is closed and the compressor is running. If the doors remain closed, the ambient air temperature (outside of the fridge) is low, and the compressor doesn't run much, you may experience low ice production. Thus, the icemaker must be plugged in at all times, even if it's not being used to make ice. If you no longer use the icemaker and wish to remove it from your machine, a module is available that replaces the icemaker with a smaller "box" unit that just performs the defrost function. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. If the ignitor's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something.



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