This method will be accurate because the temp gunwales will allow placement of the ribs into open mortises (pockets) rather than closed ones as are in the actual gunwales. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Steamed ribs sounds great, although we usually barbeque ours Seriously though - How is the steaming process itself? I don't want to sacrifice any quality but I need to make money and so while many others are cutting CNC frames out of plywood, making non-flexible boats, I want something different, something with ribs that absorb shock well, allowing movement and eliminating point loading, and I can use that as a selling point. The fastest way to build a SOF kayak right now is of course precutting sections using a computor-controlled router. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Neat idea, ensures wood is under compression instead of tension and is much less likely to break!
I find that tape tends to pucker on the edges, so I tend to cut my own strips, but it will work fine. I discovered the technqiue after having cheap exterior ply start to break when I was bending it while building a skateboard ramp. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Location: maine Skin-on Frame Kayak Building Jig The idea of building a skin-on-frame kayak has been on my mind for some time. Here's the benefit of using this process: The steamed ash ribs are pushed down into place, caged in already by the stringers.
This means the stringers have already defined the hull's shape, as if one might go on to build a plywood boat.

It would be difficult to go wrong setting up the ash ribs, since their shape is determined by the stringers, and simple spring clamps can be used to hold them until dry. The rib tops are first trimmed (if necessary, though I intend to pre-cut them to exact measurements, using steel banding for obtaining length). Location: Minneapolis,MN, USA I like the way you are thinking Alan, I also have been toying with using a female type building jig. Location: maine It's heartening to hear since I've already begun building the strongback.
I have been searching the web for some indication that a female mold has been or is being used, but nothing so far. Because the amount of material in a skin boat is so cheap, I'm looking at what labor could be saved as well in order to produce a tremendous value for a buyer. Location: maine I only see lashings used on virtually every SOF kayak on the web, but I have the feeling other methods of frame fastening have been used in the past.
I look forward to your tally of hours spent and what you believe would be the target with a honed procedure. Rick W Guest625101138 View Public Profile View Guest625101138's Gallery Find all posts by Guest625101138 Page 1 of 7 1 234567 > « Lapstrake sharpies? I just glued the layers together flat, clamped the ends only and bent it to shape: the laminations were kept together without clamps. Actually, I read somewhere that most of the distortion that occurs when wood is steamed and bent is on the inside of the bend.

Connecticut Looks like your idea should really take time out of the process.
Everybody can anatomy angstrom unit gravy boat stunned of plywood, peculiarly when you receive DIY plans with you. With the deep forefoot it will track well but might be a bit hard to turn without some rocker.
The data for all the woods that I have give very similar results, so a bending radius of about 200 x thickness should be OK without steaming, although steaming will enable the wood to bend much more and hold the new shape better. The paddle I make does require a bandsaw, but the technique I describe can be adapted to hand tools. The instructions in my book describe the basic method for making any laminated paddle and includes time saving methods.
A bit messy but not as fiddly as I expected and with a bit of development it might be a viable technique.
Cutting the strips would be a bear but I believe the material is sold precut for basketwork.

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