If you need a lighter and smaller boat, there are many boats that you could consider, including my Light Dinghy, which I've linked to above. Have you got news for us?If what you're doing is like the things you read about here - please write and tell us what you're up to. Classic Sailor is a new magazine about traditional and classic boats from ex-Classic Boat editor Dan Houston and colleagues that promises rather more coverage of the traditional craft around our coast.
Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Follow me on TwitterLooking for something?This is a busy weblog, and what you're looking for is probably still here - just a little way down the list now. Our Faversham-based friend Alan Thorne can help with boatbuilding projects - constructing to plans in very tidy stitch-and-glue or more traditional techniques.
Some microskiff manufacturers describe their products as being ‘ultralight’, and while they may mean what they say, how would those boats compare to a two-person microskiff that weighs just 80 lbs without the motor?
Practically speaking, all microskiffs, including the very basic ones and ones that are labeled solo skiff require transportation by trailer, especially if their owner doesn’t happen to have a fishing buddy to help them car top the boat. The name microskiff implies small size, which indeed is characteristic of this class of fishing boats. Needless to say that boat ramps are always located exactly where the fish are, and this means that further time must be spent on driving the microskiff from the boat ramp where it was launched to the fishery, and back. Few microskiff models are small and lightweight enough to be car topped by one person, which means that their owners are prevented from using them as a solo skiff – No fishing buddy means that your fishing trip is canceled. Being close relatives of the dinghy, microskiff can be rowed by means of oars, but this method of propulsion is physically hard, slow, and requires expertise that most people don’t have.
The first thing would be to get rid of transportation by trailer and everything that entails, and have such microskiff be easily car topped by its crew, whether it’s a crew comprised of two fishermen or just one. The perfect microskiff should provide sufficient free board and stability to allow for going in choppy waters. As seen in this video, most of these features have already been successfully tested in the Wavewalk™ 570 series, and the W700 is basically a bigger but just slightly heavier (20 lbs difference) version featuring a much more spacious cockpit, and offering a much bigger load capacity.
The new 700 from Wavewalk is designed to serve as no-trailer, two-person microskiff that you can paddle easily by yourself or in tandem, car top with no help from a second person, and be stable, comfortable and dry fishing from, whether alone or with a fishing buddy.
Other interesting features of this new microskiff class are its light weight (80 lbs without a motor), which makes it easy to car top, and load capacity (580 lbs, total).
The new W570 series from Wavewalk is a great car-top, motorized solution for offshore fishing.
Here’s a new video showing the W570 20-15 microskiff mounted with a 6 HP Tohatsu outboard. Since 2004, people around the world have been fishing from this small boat, inshore and offshore, and according to them, it’s the world’s best personal fishing craft. The W Personal Micro Skiff gets you anywhere a full size skiff would, and beyond, to fishing spots unreachable by other skiffs, jon boats, and even by conventional fishing kayaks. It offers you full comfort and control, both riding its jet-ski style saddle, and standing up. One person can cartop this boat that weighs less than 60 lbs without the motor and detachable motor mount, and 93 lbs with a 2hp Honda outboard attached to it. Two of these personal micro skiffs can be easily uploaded and attached on top of any car rack, even that of a sedan.
This personal microskiff outfitted with a 2hp outboard gas engine can tow another kayak or canoe behind at a 5mph speed. This unique craft is an embodiment of our US Utility Patent Number 6,871,608 ‘Twin Hull Personal Watercraft’.
1 Person Micro Skiff (Motorized) for Fishing, plus Kayaking, Canoeing, Sailing, and a Yacht Tender. Tandem: If the driver is not heavy, they may take an additional, lightweight passenger on board. The W Personal Micro Skiff offers you almost all the advantages you get from a typical, conventional micro skiff, plus some extra advantages in transportation, portability, mobility and versatility, and the only price you pay for these advantages is being able to take less passengers on board. It’s pretty easy, since the personal microskiff weighs just 60 lbs without a motor and motor mount.
New models with inflatable flotation, dual-use motor mounts (20" and 15"), and detachable transparent spray shield! Wavewalk's main website offers dozens of customer reviews that you may be interested to read.
All these reviews include the client's full name and state, and nearly all of them include pictures as well.
PT Watercraft offers kits for new and unique boat designs that are efficient, functional, modern & attractive. Our focus is on creating boats that answer the needs of serious cruisers, weekend camp cruisers and environmentally conscious boaters, sail and motor. The PT skiff is a very fuel efficient center console runabout that is good looking, has good handling, can carry a load, and is incredibly quick with only 20 horsepower. This design comes from the office of Bieker Boats, a design firm with a long history of success with many kinds of boats. Ballast can be either kept in, or kept out by locking the air vent valve located near the steering wheel. Other design features help this boat travel comfortably through rough water: High freeboard, side decks and lots of flare in the topsides.
If you are familiar with planing skiffs, you will see something unusual in the a€?performancea€? video on this website, Ashlyn riding quite comfortably and dry in the front end of the boat, while going fast in rough water. Favorite why?A  Four main reasons:A  Weight, longevity, ease of construction, and minimal cost and waste.
Boatbuilding with wood and epoxy is not hard, but it is a science, and to build a lightweight boat that is both strong and long lasting, one must understand the materials.A A  This is why our manual is as much about the technology as it is about building the boat.
Is this boat simple to build?A  Not really, but the result is very advanced, and anyone with general hand tool knowledge can build one provided they can carefully read the very detailed manual. Longer pieces are joined with puzzle joints, and all the frames (10 of them) are located with tongues that fit into slots in the hull, so therea€™s almost no measuring. There are manyA  separate pieces of wood included in the kit as well.A  Most of these are gluing cleats (inside corner reinforcement), all are cut to size and length.
The manual for the PT skiff is a photograph and text manual, and is as thorough as the design and kit are. While the PT Skiff was not designed to be truly self bailing, there is a relatively simple option which will allow it to self bail at speed and drain while on the trailer. A correctly-made cover for your skiff will substantially reduce the long term maintenance costs of ownership and makes outdoor storage a possibility.
Unlike some cheaper covers, ours are made from long lasting, lightweight poly acrylic, miles ahead of the heavy old fashioned canvas covers you may have struggled with until now. Our camping skiff covers transform your boat into a snug comfortable floating tent at night, and doubles up as protection from the elements during the day, whilst still allowing you to row.
For an individual quote for a mooring cover, camping cover or other canvas requirements such as cushion covers, hoop bags etc, contact us by email or phone.
Thames skiff hire is a traditional boating holiday company based on the Thames River in London.
PLEASE ALWAYS USE THE LATEST VERSION WHICH WILL CONTAIN ANY CORRECTIONS THAT HAVE BEEN BROUGHT TO THE DESIGNERS ATTENTION.
Download the Mk 2 Light Trow plans, and the model-making plans (making a model to be an important preparation for making this kind of boat). I think this is a nice small open paddler, but bouyancy tanks or bags would be a essential if you’re going to do more than paddle in narrow rivers or small shallow lakes. Boatbuilding plans for the Black Skiff have been designed and made available for free by Mark Wallace – he says all he asks for is to be given the credit for designing the boat. Mark ways she’s a strong light-weight boat loosely with strong links to Scandinavian types. As my mind turns to building MY first boat during the winter months, I browsed and found many sites and such.
Glad to be of help Charli – which boat are you planning to build for your first boatbuilding project? I made the model last night but i am unsure on how it scales up, i downloaded the zip file and i am unsure on how to use your co-ordinates, please help! I purchased the Skiff from Fyne Boats in late October 2002, having never built a boat before and possessing average DIY skills.


In the last 8 years the boat has been used extensively by our family for sailing and fishing.
Proper rowing and sailing skiffs are extraordinarily rare these days with most flat-bottomed skiffs designed for outboard motors.
It readily accepts a small outboard motor, and sails like a dream when fitted with her leg-o-mutton sail. In July to September 2011, Classic Boat magazine features a three-part series of articles on building a Jimmy Skiff in three days at one of our supervised builds at our Lake District workshop. This option can be retrospectively fitted and it turns the Skiff hull into an able sailing boat. Under sail, the Skiff exhibits perfect balance and impeccable sailing manners in light or fresh breezes.
If, later, you decide to purchase the kit the cost of this printed manual will be deducted from the kit price. The plans of the panels with the cutting instructions are included so it is possible to build the boat from scratch using these plans and manual.
After credit card authorisation the plans will be sent to the email address put on the order form. Location: Singapore Sourcing for 20'ish ft boat plans and CNC cutting files.
As much as I have been able to glean a tremendous amount useful information from this board, there are still a few questions that I need help with.
Firstly, I have zero real boat building experience, only scaled working models, fiberglass and wood. I'm sure that in time to come, there'll be loads more to be asking, but i guess this is where I'll start.
Location: Singapore Raw, i'm guessin that for one of the below-mentioned reasons, i'm unable to access my private message folder. If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation. Spreadsheet Downloads Library (beta) - 5 public forum posts are required before accessing the spreadsheet and file download library. Is there a company that would be able to supply me the drawings and cnc cutting files of an existing, in production, tried and tested boat fitting this description? Nevertheless, the answer to your question about CNC files is yes, the original designers can supply them if they feel like it, but they probably won't because it's too easy for unscrupulous people to sell them as their own once they get their hands on them. Tolman skiffs are designed for flat panel construction and someone built one in aluminum so I'm sure you can too.
Tolmans are particularly lightweight for their size too, but that's because they use composite sandwich construction not aluminum.
Tolmans are not narrow for their length so if that's what you want maybe you'd be better off with a different style altogether -- something like a genuine panga perhaps -- and I'm not talking about the boats some companies are calling pangas these days. Originally Posted by kengrome You'll have to excuse me for saying this but you're confusing me. You see, i'm not prepared to shell out the extra money for an additional 38hp and lug around an additional 100kgs if all i'm getting is an additional knot or two.
The option given to me was to have the hull lengthened, at the transom, with 2 foam filled 'boxes' on eitherside of the engine to support it's weight. Boating isn't the cheapest hobby, so I'm just hoping to get it as right as I can within my constraints. Originally Posted by kengrome Nevertheless, the answer to your question about CNC files is yes, the original designers can supply them if they feel like it, but they probably won't because it's too easy for unscrupulous people to sell them as their own once they get their hands on them. Personally I do not like the bow ends of those orange boats, they don't look very efficient to me. Their idea of extending the hulls a couple of feet on either side of the center mounted engine actually works well on some boats. If you want efficiency while going fast it is expecially important to have a lightweight boat that is also very strong. The plans are written for people who have never built a boat before, and there's a Yahoo group with a whole lot of guys who have built these boats and who will be glad to answer your questions if you get stuck on something.
What I want is just simply the cut panels so i can tack and weld a hull suited for my engine and purpose. In my opinion CNC cutting is way over-rated, especially when you're interested in building economically. Any beginner can draw and cut and shape panels for building a boat with a few hand tools, it is really no big deal.
If you don't build a welded boat in the first place, you'll never have to worry about whether the metal was too thin, or if it was warped by heat, or if it was possibly cut wrong, or if it was simple mis-handled and damaged during construction. Maybe it's time for you to decide upon your hull material, or perhaps the hull design itself. Originally Posted by kengrome Personally I do not like the bow ends of those orange boats, they don't look very efficient to me. Originally Posted by kengrome Their idea of extending the hulls a couple of feet on either side of the center mounted engine actually works well on some boats. This was just to illustrate to you and clarify the reason, intent and purpose of my predicament and my wish to resolve it.
Originally Posted by kengrome I suggest that you consider buying and reading Renn Tolman's book. Originally Posted by kengrome In my opinion CNC cutting is way over-rated, especially when you're interested in building economically. Originally Posted by kengrome If you don't build a welded boat in the first place, you'll never have to worry about whether the metal was too thin, or if it was warped by heat, or if it was possibly cut wrong, or if it was simple mis-handled and damaged during construction. Originally Posted by kengrome Maybe it's time for you to decide upon your hull material, or perhaps the hull design itself. Originally Posted by raw A cnc parts package for an aluminium boat includes much more than bottom and side plates. If my cost can be defrayed over a coupla boats, that's fine and dandy, but I'm looking at one boat for my own use, so it becomes restrictive.
At this juncture, I only wish some of the companies would respond or at least let me know why I'm barking up the wrong tree or on why they they won't or what they will. I think you'll end up hiring someone to create a set of custom cnc files if you continue to insist upon having and using them.
A finished boat is a fairly large object to ship to a destination, whereas a set of boxed parts will be much easier to handle in smaller loads.
In the kayak kit business, there are several manufacturers of wooden kits who send their stuff all over the world for builders. CNC cut panels offer some really big advantages over hand cut panels, no matter the material used. The last four wooden boats I have built have all come from a CNC cut file I prepared and delivered to the cutting shop, along with the proper marine plywood supply. So, after some prompting by Win Cnoops of the Slipway Cooperative early this summer I’ve started work on one.
The waterline here is at 500lbs, and the discerning eye will be aware that the bows will be just out of the water most of the time, and that will also have noticed that the panels at the entry are quite straight, while those at the stern have more shape. They also row well and are a natural river boat, but must be used in fairly gentle wind and wave conditions. Built from 5-6mm ply, I'd expect it to weigh in at around 100-120lbs, but it could be built more heavily or more lightly depending on the thickness of the ply and how much epoxy you decide to use. Try scrolling down, clicking on the 'older posts' button at the bottom of this page - or try the search gadget! But although microskiff are lightweight and not too big, they still require transportation by trailer, which means that their owners are forced to launch them from boat ramps, namely drive there, wait in line, spend precious time on launching, and then waste additional time on getting the boat out and driving back from the boat ramp. In other words, the second requirement from such a perfect boat should be that it can serve as both a two person fishing boat as well as a soloskiff, as far as all functions and situations are concerned. This is a must have requirement, simply because you want a boat to go fishing both the flats and other places, including out there, in bays and estuaries where the water isn’t necessarily mirror flat.
Both these benefits turn it into a trailer-free, two-person microskiff that you can easily car top and paddle by yourself. This unique combination adds an important dimension to shallow water fishing, as boat ramps are not always available where you need them, motorizing is not always an option in such fishing grounds, and poling is either too slow or too straining for traveling long distances.
Yet, this patented twinhull is narrow enough (just 31″), to allow for paddling over long distances, as well as poling, without experiencing stability problems.


Models from this series feature a transom motor mount,  a detachable spray shield, and a pair of high capacity detachable, inflatable flotation modules. Note that the TMM 20-15 motor mount had to be reinforced so it could withstand the weight and torque of this powerful outboard motor. This option offers the owner to take with them other people on prolonged camping and fishing trips, as well as carry additional gear, for longer expeditions. Alternatively, when outfitted with a small outboard gas engine, this boat can tow a kayak or canoe with another passenger, at a 5mph speed. Brown with various design collaborations with Paul Bieker and Eric Jolley of Bieker Boats, Jim Franken of Franken Design, Brandon Davis of Turn Point Design, Paul Zeusche of Townsend Bay Marine, Sean Rankins of NW Sails.
It goes about 22 knots lightly loaded and does over 16 knots with four people and gear and it feels like a rocket with only 20 horsepower. There are 120+ separate pieces from plywood in this boat, but they go together quickly and fit perfectly. It uses a minimal building jig and thus the need for extreme accuracy made possible with CNC technology. As the only company in the world hiring out skiffs to the public, and with over twenty years of experience in their building and renovation, we have unparalleled knowledge of how a durable and practical skiff cover is made, be it a mooring cover, or traditional camping cover as used by Jerome K Jerome. To ensure a close watertight fit, we make each cover individually based on the exact dimensions of your skiff. They’ve been chosen because they are derived from traditional boats, or in some cases simply for their usefulness. Note the near complete lack of wake, which should indicate that the boat’s working efficiently.
The plans are not likely to be the easiest for first-time boatbuilders to follow, but it would be well worth picking the required skills up by reading one of the classic books on this kind of boatbuilding.
She proven to be an excellent rower, has a capacity of four adults and has a flat bottom for easy beaching. If not, if you know someone with some background in maths should be able to sort it out for you using pencil and paper. It is easy to forget what a pleasure it is to spend an afternoon in a handsome, easily-driven rowing skiff, a boat that glides effortlessly with each stroke without dragging its transom.
It's to be used in the open sea, for island hopping, and beached if it's not too much to ask. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
I guess that the focus for them would be safety, reliability, and suited for heavy duty usage. But the problem is, I'm not sufficiently versed in hull designs or hydrodynamics to make an informed decision. So based on the examples of the lines that I like and have seen on the various websites eg: bateau, glen-l etc, I thought that if they sold the designs, they might also have the cutting files. I would have attempted to build it myself if not for the fact that there is a severe lack of space where I'm at. In the end, if someone wants to swipe a boat design from a reverse engineered set of CNC panels, there is little you can do.
They are successful, have been in the business for many years and do not seem to have much of a problem with folks swiping their work to short-cut the process of ownership. They then made minor adjustments to the nesting layout to allow for their machine's character and 20 minutes later, a full set of parts were ready to take back to the shop for assembly.
This microskiff should offer enough room for two people stay in for long hours, as well as fish without the problems that often plague tandem crews that fish from small boats such as canoes, job boats, and even microskiff. This requirement is no less than critical for fishing very shallow water, especially where vegetation abounds. Other types of propulsion include electric motors, propane outboards, kayak paddles, poling poles, canoe paddles, rowing oars, and various sailing rigs.
Special thanks to our honorary consultants, John Marples, Dick Newick, Jim Brown, Brian Clark, Tom George, Sandy Goodall, John Harris, Alex Spear, Tim Nolan, Meade Gougeon, Ted Pike, Chris Grace.
The coordinates are pairs of numbers, as you'll have noticed, and each pair defines a particular single point on the ply. There are a lot of points to plot, and when they have been plotted, you have to join the dots to make a complete drawing, as it were. Hand tools were appropriate for most of the build which was completed in evenings and the odd weekend. One of the high points was sailing in Loch Sunart with our two boys accompanied by porpoises. Don't be deceived by the ample beam and stability; this boat rows well enough to cover miles in a day, whether it's to reach your fishing grounds or just to enjoy an afternoon on the water. Any rig can be fitted but the leg o mutton one usually fitted is simple to work and has a boom that is well above the heads of the crew. The traditional sprit boom means that the crew will never get whacked in the head during a surprise jibe. Like these: As you can see from these pictures, all the orange boats are of the same dimensions, LOA, beam, deadrise etc.
But what I don't get is why the the plans and some cnc files cost a coupla hundreds but when it comes to 'customs' they costs a coupla thousands?
This necessitates the building of at least one example to check all the pieces for accuracy and, if necessary, go back to the original file and make the corrections.
Such dream boat should be easy to pole as well, namely that the person poling it would be able to stand in it without experiencing any balance problem.
I live on a river that empties into the Matagorda bay, here in Texas, and the wind blows regular like crazy. Due to its lightweight construction, it can be easily hoisted onto the deck of a larger boat or, if you have a large car, carried on a roof rack. It describes all of the techniques that will be used during the building and also a step by step guide to construction. But with options for outboards starting from 30 to 60hp as well as inboards ranging from 33 to 127hp. I really don't mind having the very same boat that been built several thousand times over by people who have purchased the plans. The ones I mentioned in my first post, If they sell the design and there's a community behind it and also selling the materials and helping people along the way with it, then I'm just thinkin that they might have the Cutting files since it was also stated that it can be fabricated in aluminum as well.
You know of a company that's willing to sell me the cnc cutting files so i can start getting my boat built? If they produce a corrected piece, or pieces and they work correctly, then the completed product can be deemed ready for shipment.
Longish with a narrower beam, (Panga'ish) for efficiency and less drag, unless told otherwise.
I'd do fiberglass if I could find somewhere decent here to have it laid, but i haven't yet, not here at least. While it is true that most designers will not let you have the CNC files in .dxf format so you can cut at will, they will provide the precut panels if you make that arrangement up front. Measure that against any time you have invested in the offset layout, the hand cutting, the trimming to match, etc., and you can see that machine cut parts are much more cost effective. If the study plans says that it's good for a range of hp and weight and several thousand people have built off the plans, well, if it's good enough for them, it good enough for me. The problems associated with a poorly marked offsets and the subsequent errors that are put into the system are eliminated. I'm sure there are glassed boats that have lasted 20yrs and virtually bullet proof, but I can't get them here.
For the same boat, without the pedantics, aluminum is supposedly lighter, but there's some that says otherwise.
Ultimately, for someone who is not in possession of the facts, ME, I can only make my decisions based on my constraints. The cost differential is prohibitive to me as the costing for the design and files amount to about 16-18% of my total cost. In a boat of this size, what would be the general consensus in terms of practical power to weight ratio and speed?




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