With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts. When I was a boy, I was amazed how my grandfather could make flotsam and jetsam into useful things. I have a set (2) of aluminum boat lift bunks that, the best I can remember, have never been installed on a boatlift.
I have a friend who has a lift he was thinking about selling, but because I just bought a 1986 2001 he said I could use it to store my boat for the summer. If he wants more then a few hundo don't bother, those lifts are very low quality, heavy and a pita to move and terrible to raise as Gary mentioned.
With a 2001 the front bunks can also be too low to the cross member due to the deep v on the front of the boat. Better yet, I found a photo, although its not a close up, you can see what in talking about on the left side of the photo near the bunk. The only piece of hardware that needs to clear anything are the tracking fins on the rear cradle. Measure the length of the bunks and then how far back any crossmembers are, let's say the bunks are 8 feet. If you are going to be in deep enough water you can replicate the bunk system of your trailer as long as the boards like Tim says above allow the fins to clear. Gary S wrote:If you are going to be in deep enough water you can replicate the bunk system of your trailer as long as the boards like Tim says above allow the fins to clear. I hate those but you can make it work, possibly without any hardware investment whatsoever. Hollywood wrote:I hate those but you can make it work, possibly without any hardware investment whatsoever. I decided to leave the carpet intact for appearance, although it now serves no other purpose. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world. I have a Shore Station and the model is SS36108, SS=ShoreStation 36=3600#'s and 108=108" width (max beam).
Photo How high did you lift the back of the bunks to so that the prop, rudder, fins, ect are clear when you park? That reminds me another reason I got rid of the Hewitt, being on the shallow side of the river I would have trouble when we had low water. Sometimes older ones seize up in their mounts, scarring the hull when you load the trailer. I don't think it would hurt anything, as the PVC is probably softer than the fiberglass. If you do end up using that one just raise the bunks so the shaft clears, turning the shackles straight up may accomplish that if not you could add longer ones.


All you need to do is raise the bunks at the rear high enough so the shaft will not hit the crossmember, just be sure to only float on until you know where the boat wants to sit and that there are no interference's like the shaft and the skegs (fins under the boat). I was in a situation in the beginning of summer and first season with the boat and my old steel SS, hand me down, was so rusted that the marina wanted me to sign a waiver before they would install it. Now measure the boats hull to find the center, 4 foot back from there and then adjust for crossmember locations measure how far down your shaft and skegs are, you may need to adjust that measurement if the hull curves to where the bunks will be. The flimsy uprights on it are all smashed up, probably from powering off in low water conditions. Bunk boards don't have moving parts, are usually cheaper than a full set of rollers, provide more even weight support, require almost no maintenance, and with new-style coverings make launching and retrieval relatively easy.
They sell the nylon glides, which as far as I know can be used on glass boats, so I would think this would be ok, too. I have some aluminum angle that I think will work for installation brackets but you will have to drill some new holes in the angle to make it all line up right.
If the crank holds great, otherwise you may need to tie the wheel off so it will hold the up position. We had a bbc BFN on that same lift for years without issue (other than it taking much time and effort to get it raised).Cable looks like it is wound bacerds in the winch. Now you can get bunk boards covered by slick plastic-type surfaces with Teflon or similar material. Be sure the bunk carpet is clean and in good shape plus check for anything that could scratch the hull, otherwise replace it with any indoor outdoor carpeting.
If this does not work out, weight wise, ask your local marinas and you might find something reasonable. I raised my bunks on an old triton lift by cutting metal pipe, attaching to bunk brackets, and putting a u-bolt on the top and bottom side of the lift frame, the pipe attached to the bunk on the front side of the frame, and a metal plate on the back side of the frame which the u bolts went through with a nut and washer. We had a bbc BFN on that same lift for years without issue (other than it taking much time and effort to raise).Cable looks like it is wound bacerds in the winch. Some wrenches and a saw, and possibly 1 trip to the hardware store and you'll get it figured out. If it becomes less slick, periodically apply Teflon or a similar lubricant from a spray can.
Then I cut a slight bevel on the front end of the pieces and lopped the top corner off the rear ends. You will have to provide your own SS mounting hardware, but I can tell you where I used to get the best prices on stainless. First of all, like Tim said, as long as there is resting clearance for the V of the hull your bunks are high enough (definitely remove those plastic deck boards, but don't throw them out yet). And, if you have antifouling paint on it, it will probably wear that off and make a mess of the glides, too. The top of these bunks is covered to prevent the aluminum from making contact with the bottom of the boat.


The cradle needs to go low enough to get the fins over the crossmember, it really doesn't matter where the bunks are at right? It's important to get boards that fit your trailer and boat; consult the trailer manufacturer or a qualified dealer.
I also planed and sanded down both top sides for the length of the boards so there were no sharp corners in contact with the hull of my boat.
This is not uncommon practice at all, in fact quinner has to do it himself on his fancy ShoreStation even with v crossmembers! If your roller-angle brackets and their U-bolts aren't impaired by rust, you may be able to reuse them, leaving them in place. We can also throw it into the FAQ thread for the next guy who needs to Frankenstein his lift. When you bolt the bunk boards to them, the boards may already be positioned properly for your rig.
The real danger for you here is that you need to make sure you aren't parked too far forward and lifting your boat up from the shaft.
If the brackets are compromised by rust, you may need to cut them off with a grinder or similar tool.
If you install new angle brackets, make note of the position of the old rollers for reference when positioning the new brackets and bunk boards.Before you begin, offload the boat into the water where you can dock it for a few hours. The offset middle hole is then outboard, instead of inboard, making them stand upright more than flopped over, thus creating more height. Usually this is a simple matter of attaching the brackets to the trailer frame (unless you're reusing the old ones) and the boards to the brackets. You can also play with shimming the middle upright bolt (that rests on top of the crossmember) with the removed rear deckboards. With bolts tight, but before final tightening down, back the trailer into water and slowly pull the boat up to fine-tune positioning of the boards.
You can also use the deckboards to shim the bunk to the square (the piece the uprights connect to). The boat should ride on them so that they place the boat into a center stable position by guiding its bottom strakes.
Use the bolts the deckboards are currently attached to the crossmember with to go all the way through the square if the current bolt isn't long enough after shimming. If those aren't galvanized or stainless throw them out, they will only cause you [more] trouble later.



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