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Location: Carib, ME & Cali Like a bulwark on the gunwales that runs fore and aft both sides? I'd use epoxy, just to insure a really good bond and to skip the need for mat, but polyester will work, though you'll need to bulk it up. Location: Eustis, FL Yep, on the boat would insure everything fits precisely. A flange is easier from a finishing stand point, as it can be done fairly rough with the coming, caulk and trim pieces covering much of it. Location: Oregon USA I would do similar to Par's idea (but it doesn't have to be anywhere near that complicated) with foam. Location: Eustis, FL You'll note the wooden blocks that create the foundation of the coming in my drawing above are intended to be removed after everything is cured. If you elect to use foam, it has to be fully enclosed (cored laminate) or the new laminate has to be relatively thick, because the foam is only a mold in this case and not helping the strength department (unlike wood).


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Maha Mysore Boat Building New Zealand Fibreglass Systems is the one stop repairer Boats applies over 50 years aluminium boat building Fiberglass Boat Repair Boat Maintenance Fishing Boats 6m Fiberglass Fishing boat with outboard engine, New Zealand Design Engineering, CE, 5-year structural warranty, Mercury. Allthough I guess restoring would imply that I am bringing it back to it's original look and condition and that's not quite true. I would probably have to make an arrangement to make it sit on the existing deck, but I will figure something out. The way I did it and found the easiest was to temporarily screw a fitted piece of wood under the deck, with it's inboard face at the angle I wanted. PVC also gets quite brittle and will depolymerize with prolonged UV exposure, not to mention it's not very strong.
Feathering it back to get a good tabbing into the old work, then install some sort of mold, directly on the boat.
I've bent enough PVC pipe over the years to know it's often hard to get curves just right, especially if you have to toss heat at it. An all molded in coming requires the finish work, preformed directly on the boat and the mold needs to be more precise, to save yourself fairing work.
They could remain in place, but aren't really necessary if the new laminate is thick enough.
Metal Boatplans, Boat plans, Designs, Boatbuilding Books and Boating Equipment throughout Australia, New Zealand The Boat Place (Building and restoration of fiberglass, wood State, Canada, Australia New Zealand. Only the horisontal surfaces of the decks are left and a new bulwark needs to be constructed.


I covered this with clear packaging tape, then laid up fabric over this, bonding it to the deck, which was feathered back to receive the additional bulk of the new fabric. I use a brightly finished piece of mahogany, but you can laminate anything you want to the flange. If you did leave them in place, you could get by with much less laminate thickness, which to some, may be a reward.
All of these foams will absorb water over time, which generally isn't a good thing, within laminates, but is just fine if the foam is a temporary mold. You can bond it, so it's a continuous, seamless coming, or fasten a bedded coming, which is what I did, in case I needed to remove it for repairs, refinishing, rebedding, etc. Wouldn't it be better to create the curves accurately while the pvc (or other support material) is termporarily attached and laid up correctly with mold release on the deck. PVC will bend to a uniform curve if you don't heat it, but it does have a limit to which it will bend without kinking, buckling or requiring heat. Then after the epoxy has hardened, remove the piece and the pvc and re-fit the rail by applying fabric both over and under to attach it to the existing.
So I guess it depends on how tight the smallest radius is, as to which will make the best mold. Ezi-build female mould, you need and sail boats in word of Be the whole floor removal boat plans stays in building.



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