You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. I have heard these little engines on Youtube running without a muffler(silencer) and they are not loud, AND with the lenght of Wet Exhaust Tube I will use it would greatly silence it as well. I was thinking about using this configuration in the diagram without a muffler(silencer) when I install it. Keep the syphon breaker serviced and clean!!!,,, nothing like pulling a dip stick to check the oil and have sea water and oil all over your bilge.
The raw cooling water exits with the exhaust, and it looks like you may have a problem with backflow into the engine when not running by your drawings.
I am mounting my Genset between my twin Ford 302's that are already above the water line, so really there shouldn't be a back fill issue since the exhaust will be above water level and I will have the goose neck pattern with my exhaust.
I have an MCCK 6500 with FWC heat exchanger and the exhaust manifold has engine coolant so no rusting. I have had a few of those little Onan 1 Cylinder MAJB's and you will want a muffler of some sort on that one!!! There is a trick you can use on the MAJB to get around the anti-siphon valves and water lift muffler. Since the MAJB uses a standard pipethread for the exhaust outlet, you can get real creative using galvanized plumbing pipe from HomeDepot. I have used a setup like this on my old trawler for about 20 years, and have run it in all kinds of seas without any issues. After the disaster that was the engine filling with water, a light bulb clicked in my head telling me it was time to design a better anti siphon setup to prevent the engine from filling with a water a second time. The reason the anti siphon loop is supposed to be so high is to prevent the water from ever establishing a continuous flow and starting a siphon, at the top of that loop is usually a one way valve that will shut when water is passing through the loop but it will open, allowing air in, when it is not flowing.
And a rare moment for us using 100% silicone to seal something, but the destructions were quite clear that only 100% silicone caulk could be used.. And as you can see, right behind it mounted in the engine room and going up as high as we can possibly bring it is the new anti siphon loop along with a marelon ball valve that can be opened and shut easily.
In the system you installed you have a couple of week points that could fail and sink your boat. The practice we use is that we close the seacock each time we are done using the engine for the day. I can think of MANY times sailing where you run the motor for only 10 minutes, turn it off for an hour or so, waiting on the wind, then having to turn it back on, and off etc. I was also a little concerned about the hose clamps, but the hoses are REALLY on those barbs…Almost impossible to get on and all are clamped within the spec of clamping where they are completely over the barb and also have hose all around. Thanks for the replies, I guess I don’t know how the engine room on a Westsail is setup.
I have a couple of single hose clamp setups too, that’s why I always close my seacock when we are done for the day. The pressure difference between atmospheric above the anti siphon valve and the vacuum at B under siphon conditions causes the anti siphon valve to open, which should theoretically work just fine.
Your new valve is an additional safeguard against a plugged anti siphon valve (if you remember to open it, ha). The anti siphon loop is connected on one side to the discharge of the heat exchanger and on the other side to the exhaust pipe.


It looks like you’re still at risk of backing water into the engine from the exhaust outlet. Note that if you forget to open the ball valve and crank the engine you will dead head the water pump and risk blowing off one of several hose connections. Mixing salt water with hot engine exhaust would seem to create a very corrosive environment in the exhaust line. Plumbing the cooling water and exhaust for an engine that sits below the water line looks pretty challenging. Yes, the small hose attaches to a spigot right above the cockpit drain which lets air into the hose.
Very nice, easy to make SURE the engine is getting cooling water by seeing the small flow, and remove those pesky valves. I might have a BSME in thermofluids I haven’t seen in over 25years, but you’ll making my brain hurt!
I was going to mention the small hose versus one way valve on the siphon but you’re a head off me, you fearless sawing-off more-boat kinda guy. We made it into Bimini yesterday, perhaps you might come a little east before you head off on your adventure to the west? Tate, Our mechanic is advising a similar strategy for protecting the engine from hydrolocking. If this is true, we are going to be in even bigger trouble than you getting to the sea cock to shut the raw water off. I believe if you crank the engine for anything more than a few seconds you can run into problems with the muffler filling up, but if the engines fires fast (and it will) then it shouldn’t be that big of an issue. Tate, I am in the process of plumbing in our exhaust system and wanted to know which anti siphon valve you went with. Your valve looks different and so I was wondering what brand it is and whether you recommend it.
On the recommendation of the guy we bought the motor from, we didn’t use an actual valve. A muffler in a tube; the revolutionary design of our patented Linear Series muffler technology has proven to be one of the most significant innovations in marine diesel engine exhaust technology. Muffler Sound Quality: Normal tone conversation can easily be heard over engine exhaust sound - Very Quiet.
Application: Inline, preferably close to the engine with enough room for a surge tube in front.
Surge tubes help protect the engine from water ingestion.Connection elbows, wyes and tubing can easily be adapted to accommodate custom tailored applications.
When using a wet exhaust system, the gases from the engine are mixed with raw cooling water from the heat exchanger. That exhaust hose will be possibly be full to the level of the final downturn at the exit end of your hose where the syphon break is, above the engine.
I worked on a brand new Wellcraft 33' coastal with a brand new Kohler generator between the engines. So off I went on my design spree, but first… There seemed to be a lot of confusion in my first posts about siphons, and how they work, and how the motor actually flooded.
Simply put, a siphon is tube of some sort that can cause water to flow UPHILL without the use of pumps and will be discharged at a level lower than the reservoir.


This puts an air bubble at the top of that loop to further prevent the water from making it over the hump and starting a siphon which will flood the engine FROM THE RAW WATER INTAKE (not the exhaust outlet). In our case, the valve at the top of the loop clogged and the loop wasn’t high enough to stop water from making it over the loop when the boat bucked in her slip during heavy weather.
Magnolia sounds like Sundowner in that it is more dangerous to close seacocks when the engine is hot than anything else.
I will confirm this, but he is saying that we should not open the sea cock until we have started the engine. It is quite a trip from the helm to the engine room and the seacock for raw water is on the far side of the engine. Through a continuing series of enhancements that began in the early 1990's, the Linear Series muffler product line continues to evolve; handling ever increasing engine horsepower capacities while requiring less and less space. The lower temperature in the exhaust not only makes the use of synthetic materials possible, but also reduces the sound level. So please, take a moment with me to review this supremely boring but important topic so you too can understand the destructive magic that flooded our engine. The loop comes a full two feet above the water line and is near the centerline of the boat.
The reason behind this is that until the engine is running, there is insufficient exhaust pressure to push the water that is being delivered to the exhaust system out of the boat. I think the aqualift makes it much quieter and a gen on a boat you will want it as quiet as possible.
This flowing water will fill up the muffler, then the exhaust pipe will fill up until water spills over the exhaust manifold into the engine block itself (which is what happened to us).
I suppose I’ll have to find something new to do on the boat tomorrow while we continue to wait for the crane. If you crank the engine for a bit and then stop, the water can flow back and lock the engine. Plus, it just seem wrong to run the impeller without raw water for any time, let alone the 30 or so seconds it might take to get to the sea cock. Marine Exhaust Systems continues to invest its technological expertise in the Linear Series muffler to further improve and develop this innovative product line.
2) Make it easy to shut the raw water intake side of the engine system to prevent problems like this from happening in the first place. I could envision an annulus pipe around the exhaust pipe (or maybe just a water cooled heat exchanger) for the exit water but it’s probably not practical. The function of a water lock is to collect the cooling water when the engine is stopped, so that the water cannot flow back into the engine.
Worked great until they slowed the boat down fairly quickly and the swell from behind the boat hit the boat and filled the exhaust with enough water to get in the gen.
In order to simplify the rather complicated engine installation, Craftsman Marine has combined the silencer and the water lock in one single unit, called the Soundlock. The result is: less cost and less installation time, whereas the unit takes up less space on board too.



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