Please upgrade your browser - this website will not display properly using Internet Explorer 6, or lower. Location: Texas Design idea update Not much of a budget, I'm on VA disability. Hull idea is to stretch the beam to ~7' 6", to maintain trailerability, stretch the length of the main hull to the original hull and deck outline, with the wheel-arms extending aft, from about where they end, now, but longer, to accommodate a larger wheel, or wheels. My idea is to split the wheel into halves, then use electric motors to drive them separately. For the main hull (transom to bow), I was thinking a profile approximating the Selway 20' Sternwheel 'mould' design, using a simple, shallow 'v' jon-boat plan.
For a trailer, I expect to get a 'tandem' axle low-boy style trailer, that uses torsion springs and trailing-arms.
At the back of the wheelhouse, on both sides, at foredeck level, will be doors with raised sills, to clear the combing,, like a tugboat has, for more effective freeboard, to place the wheel and controls as far forward as possible, and to allow passage to and from the deck and cabin, without interfering with the operator, while underway. Once she's built, and afloat, I can use the battery-bank as leveling ballast, then run wiring and finish filling spaces with foam. Mostly, the boat will be anchored and my escape-hatch, from a crowded house, and a fishing pier. Location: Milwaukee, WI If you don't have much of a budget, a sternwheeler is a bad choice. I'm putting a larger, more efficient hull under what was a 2-bicycle powered, paddlewheel boat. Location: Milwaukee, WI Hemp will soak a huge amount of epoxy resin for very little strength. Originally Posted by gonzo Hemp will soak a huge amount of epoxy resin for very little strength.
Location: Texas Avoiding the fiberglass is more expensive than fiberglass, but epoxy and which ever fabric is cheaper than a 2nd, handmade hull.
Paint, other than the final surface treatment, hasn't been one of my real options, for the hull. Location: Milwaukee, WI I think you need to check prices of used boats and compare them to a new build.
Originally Posted by gonzo I think you need to check prices of used boats and compare them to a new build.
I looked at building a floating dock, with a cabin on it, but I'd need all sorts of ecological impact studies, engineering for waste disposal and access for emergency personnel. I am asking for help with my hull design, and simulation if possible, to be relatively sure she'll behave. If there's a 3rd, it generally boils down to using the body off of a travel-trailer, rather than building the cabin I want.
I haven't made extravagant proclamations for luxury, no head, no galley, no air-conditioning, no chandeliers, no monster stereo, no water-slide, not even a refrigerator. Do you really think I couldn't fit that stuff into ONE 16' jon-boat and get in and out of here with 2 adults and a child? Location: Eustis, FL I don't want to insult you or burst your bubble, but you have a lot of research to do, before even thinking about this project.
There's no 50's era Chris Craft with cotton duck deck and lead paint treatments that have survived, unless parked in a hermetically sealed warehouse since 1961. The idea of a stern or side wheeler is cute, but if you're interested in cheap and efficient, toss this idea out the window quickly. As to self designing this puppy, you're no where close to this level of understanding, even if it is a small boat. Your best advised to simply get a set of stock plans and put the lipstick and mascara on it as you like, leaving the structure, hull form and build details intact.
Stock plans for a boat of this general size and arrangement, count in the many hundreds and don't cost much, some less than a hundred bucks, which is cheap. Location: Texas Jon-Boat Hull Design It's not about what anyone wants, but me. The Chris Craft canvas and paint method works, and, yes I can find where some has even lasted since the '50s, or I wouldn't have brought it up.

Despite the ragging, I've been rather thorough in detailing, point-by-point, how to do the very things I'm being told I can't do, how and why they should work, even finding other alternatives to the objections. The main problem to overcome is the lack of transition to the transom, that is shown in the profile of the Selway. The length to beam ratio is only slightly above the recommended minimum of 2:1, but this is not a high-speed design, it's a shallow-water, muddy-bank design. The wheel arms will be structurally integral and extend behind the transom, just as sponsons do, on many commercial jon-boats.
Location: Eustis, FL You're right I haven't a clue about these things, you have fun with it .
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Location: Holland Longtail Think the river boats bhnautika mentioned are know as longtail boats.
The flat bottom makes it plane easy and becouse it is not to wide it will be quite efficient when it does not plane. When rechargeable batteries are not permitted it is very unlikely the solar panels alone will provide the power needed to plane. Please forgive missing prop, this is just a very basic scetch, hope proportions or sort of right.
Location: Holland Planing solar models Great to see you have this experience already, sorry if my remarks about hulls not planing offended you. One of the problems is that you need to get to planing speed so the hull also must be efficient in non planing mode. Perhaps you can post a new thread asking for advice on a book on powerboat design that explains the basics.
As the race track is in a straight line it is a very good idea to tilt the solar panels towards the sun. Location: Perth, Australia Solar Boat Design My son is also wanting to build a model solar boat but is uncertain on hull design, motor size and propellor. Location: australia Dill the main decision that needs to be made is, do you want to go fast or slow and the available power you have. Location: Bundaberg Australia dill, is your son involved in the same competition as my son and students are?
Location: Bundaberg Australia dill, if you're in australia there is the opportunity for your son to enter solar challenge if you wish. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. It would be great to have protected dual steering positions on the aft crossbeams just before the dip to floats in platform pods extending forward with the main sheet traveller having more curve and a cockpit coachroof. An interesting developement in fast off shore Tris is instead off bowsprits is to have extra hull lenghts and higher bow bouyancy to avoid pitch polling and allowing faster entering into waves. Another page with 3 pics display l or a feather design page for the 79ft design for comments with sail plan and specs and like engine size with cruising speed and max speeds motor and sailing would be tremendous with more curved mainsail track and coach roof, twin helms on crossbeams YES. It would be great to have protected dual steering positions on the aft crossbeams just before the dip to floats in platform pods, extending forward with the main sheet traveller having more curve and a cockpit coachroof.
It would be great to have protected dual steering positions on the aft crossbeams just before the dip to floats in platform pods, extending forward and a shield across to the cockpit for winches spread protection with the main sheet traveller having more curve and a cockpit coach roof. Plus retractable curved dagger foiling boards and the main hull having bow retractable lifting foils for fast running storm sailing to prevent pitch polling.
MozzieCraft uses the same premium materials and trusted methods as actual shipbuilders from design to completion. I could, like countless others, think how easy it should be, and start on another one of those countless incomplete nightmares you mentioned. Sure, it was overzealous to think of using the end-pieces of an antique piano would make a cool console, within the wheelhouse. Now, maybe we have a completely different idea of what camping is, but, if I recall correctly, I said generally 2 adults and one child, a DC genset, a porta-potty, a bit of gear, and a cooler, for any extended trip. I've haven't fully read this whole thread, but the quick overview I have, I see repeated misunderstandings, misnomers, etc.

TiteBond III is close, but not a structural adhesive and will not tolerate being submersed for very long, plus it costs more than epoxy per ounce.
There's a reason 99.8% of powerboats kissed this contrivance goodbye, once a prop was invented.
Designing an easy to build, efficient, low cost build and inexpensive operation boat, requires some real skills, especially as a home built. You can have a boat that looks like what you want, has some predictable level of efficiency, reasonable operation costs and ownership, while having the styling you desire. Avoid free plans or those that seem like a real good deal, as you'll get what you pay for generally.
The propellor in the pictures is tilted very much this also is not very efficient, i'd place the engine as low as possible to make it more efficient, also good for balance. Perhaps you can make them adjustable to compensate for the sun angle at the time the race is run.
A lightweight catamaran will move along with much effort where as planning hulls need more power. In my thoughts, I was placing the engines in the outside hulls to reduce noise in the main cabins, thoughts?
Plus curved dagger partial foiling boards and the main hull having bow retractable lifting foils for fast running storm sailing to prevent pitch polling. Make a prioritized list of all the various things you absolutely need to have on this boat, in terms of costs, build type, material choices, physical dimensions and performance attributes. They also solved the shaft trough hull problem (please see picture, the bow ends in a very high point, would like an explanation for this but think students can omid it). As mentioned before wheight is a very important factor here, the less weight to lift out of the water, the easier it planes. We offer a product lineup of large and medium scale boat hulls designed for the adventurous modeler. I haven't checked, but I'm fairly certain that would be prohibitively expensive, given the amount of pipe I think it would take (not to mention ugly). Not what you'd like, but what you have to have for the boat to work, the essential minimums so to speak. Our hulls are uniquely customizable and built-to-order to provide a high quality foundation for your next marine RC build. You can book or make reservation here and also the picture above is a nice image for your desktop wallpaper.
If you look, you'll see that the Showboat cabin walls are not raised above the hull and over combing, but I've included that, to reduce the potential ingress of water. This means bye bye the stern wheel, in favor of a good used outboard and learn to live with your aversion to 'glass work, as this will be the cheap way to get her done. You could build in a traditional style (plank over frame), but the boat will have many more parts, will be much heavier, which you pay for in the build and underway and it'll leak. Don't miss to check all your favorite places by viewing the similar hotels and villas in pictures below. Yeah, you'll be 'glass work free, but you quickly see why these methods aren't used any more, compared to taped seam (and other types) builds.
With any luck, the list making will force some reality into the project, especially once you start to calculate materials costs and you can move past, some of the preconceived notions you have about certain things, that plainly aren't based in the same reality most others have of these types of projects.
Original draft was about 6 inches.Even accounting for added wood and several batteries, I think I'll be able to match that. Nice thing about a fairly large, almost flat hull is that it distributes weight, not merely displacing water.

Rc boat plans dxf
Building a simple boat motor stand