Hi Guido,nice to know you are back on your workbench and I'm corious about your progress with this interesting project!
Gentlemen – Thank you for your encouragement!After removing and smoothing over, the putty I constructed the cargo hold cover amidships. Lovely piece of work Guido Hope the wave works out, only ever seen one real freak wave up close. Gentlemen-Modest progress has been made this week.I had Mark Walberg and George Clooney visiting the yard. Gentlemen- Thank you for your kind comments.I have been using the weekend for some more modest progress. Hi Guido This is an all together different project , it has charm and it has character , seldom if ever seen on a warship model . So in another forum I saw someone had used these plans to make a beautiful Junk out of paper.
I think the better approach is to start with a nice basic kit that you can use as an example for your later scratch project.
To #2 and #3 I'm looking at using larger scale version of the plans from the first post, which would seem to have all the major details more or less. I also expect that I will make this or a similar ship again once my understanding and comfort level have increased.
I've been using the body plan to make the plans for the bulkheads and I've run into a another question. I suppose I could make the new keel piece a sandwich of pieces with a channel which the rudder could pass through. I'm still very new to all this, and I'm at the phase of lots of planning and 'zenning' into the project, so nothing is truly decided or set in stone.
Sean another consideration is that according to the drawings, she looks like she is clinker built.
Also it seems that all of the builds I can find pictures of use carvel planking and not clinker, but I can kinda see how this hull would lend itself to either. I'm not sure what level of build this kit is but I do find myself getting a little bit befuddled with the plans, not withstanding the fact it is all in Italian and my grasp of this language is to say the least non-existent. Despite my obvious handicaps of no Italian and fingers like bananas I have manged to get the second layer of hull planking completed and am just about to start on the deck area. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions as I go along and hope that one day I'll be able to show you my completed effort. Thanks for the warm welcome, i'll certainly keep a record and put up a build log, will be part of the fun.
Welcome Paul as my next build will be a Sergal kit I will follow your build log with particular interest. Welcome GUEST to the Model Ship World Community.Please LOGIN or REGISTER to use all of our feautures. He took up model making as a hobby when he was a boy and built model ships for the rest of his life. Even though the scales were small, McNarry put as much detail into a model only a few inches in length as model builders who use much larger scales. After the war he worked for some years as an accountant before devoting himself full-time to miniature ships.
McNarry lived a reclusive life at his home on the south coast, working to a self-imposed regime of 10 hours a day, seven days a week, 52 weeks a year, his main contact with the outside world being the view of the sea from his studio window. Your user name and password will give you full posting privileges to all of HyperScale Forums.
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Originally I was aiming at build the real Andrea Gail, so I tried finding reference on the net.
To get an even surface I glued a piece of sheet to the bulkhead and applied a GMM WT Door to get a sense of scale. It is only 0.3mm thick but is a lot stiffer than any other sheet material of the same thickness. They put on their wet suits (George with pants only, Mark with full dress) and took their places in the wheelhouse.I put on the roof, but forgot to take a photo. What's the bit called where the hull is all layered up and divided front to back all in one little image?
And likely the most important question: Am I damn fool for trying something of this magnitude as my first ship?


I would say buying a kit is cheaper in the long run than scratch building, particularly if you're just going to buy all the fittings anyway.
If something doesn't cost you a lot of money, it's probably going to cost you a lot of time. And, before there were ship model kits, everyone had to scratch build even their first models, so you're certainly in good company. I would make a piece that you would attach to the keel (light blue) and then slot this piece to accept your frames. I'd like to spend the next month or 2 simply gaining an understanding of the process and reading books on building and rigging techniques and getting together all the plans and drawings I need. The plans below are a set of VERY similar plans with some extra hiden details, but I'm still planning on basing the model of the plans in the first post. I got a few books Christmas have done more research on the this model and have returned with another question. If you don't have those I would try a very sharp utility knife to score the wood multiple times until you break through to the other side. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more.
Don't worry about the plans too much - the great thing about MSW is that there is likely someone who has some knoweldege of the kit.
From 1955 he worked as a freelance professional and created some 350 models of historic ships covering the period from 700BC to the late 1960s. Decks were always planked to scale and rigging always accurate, with the correct number of strands. All his publications have helped to raise overall standards in small-scale ship modelling, both amateur and professional.
He took up model making as a hobby when he was nine, and began exhibiting 100ft to one inch models at the annual Model Engineer Exhibition in 1935, in the junior section. But despite his dedication to his work he was always ready to help and offer advice and support to other model makers, scholars and historians. Please do not use Plane Talking as a public platform to complain about retailers or manufacturers (about issues such as broken or missing parts) before you have followed all normal channels to resolve any greivance. Please make any suggestions for improvements or criticism direct to the author via the email link at the bottom of the Article.Finally, please note that this Discussion Group is privately operated and that I reserve the right to delete any post or cancel any registration for any reason whatsoever. In a next step I scribed an uneven pattern of steel deck panels onto the weather deck (made visible with pencil dust) and cut the fishing net chute into the stern. Now any thought to modeling a huge wave for her to ride up on?That, of cause, will be the ultimate goal of this build.I really wonder nobody tried it before. So you have to wait until the curtain is raised again.I know that it makes things complicated, but I do like to make and paint the small parts separately. It isn’t exactly dead-flat, but the slight sheen seems just right for scale effect.After a day of drying, I applied a black wash of oil paint. Would I be better served to buy a similar kit to use for supplies or is it cheaper to buy just what I need? The cost of fittings add up quickly, especially if you buy them here and there and end up having to pay shipping on each order.
It's amazing how knowing a simple term can make all the difference in searching for information.
I do have a couple of books on the way for Christmas and have no qualms about expanding my collection.
The last 3 bullheads are not attached to the keel and I'm not certain how I would attach them in the building process. My suggestion for the rudder would be to double up the thickness of the false keel at the stern so you can drill a hole for the rudder post.
Try and cut as evenly as you can then to do a little sanding to make the slots square to one another. I do hope you will begin a build log of your own from where you are now, to aide the next modeler like you that stumbles upon our site, Besides build logs are the best place to get answers and encouragement. His styles of presentation included scenic, waterline, full-hull and the traditional Navy Board type almost all of them constructed according to miniature scales ranging from 100ft to one inch to 16ft to one inch. So finely detailed were his models that in some cases his workmanship could be properly appreciated only by using a strong magnifying glass.
His models, meanwhile, were highly sought-after, and examples can be found in museums and private collections around the world. His family was bombed out of their home in the Second World War, in which he served, mostly on defensive duties in Britain, with the Gordon Highlanders.
I was quite obvious that the real AG in her final configuration was completely different from the ship seen in the movie.


Then the chute is covered up at the deck again, as it is not in used on those swordfish boats.Next would be the bumper guards around the hull.
If you take a wet sanding pad and roughen up the surface you can draw onto it with a pecil and still have a see-thourgh effect: It helps me much when alining stuff. First time I do that to a ship model, to keep my resolve to try something new with every build.
If you have actual lines taken from the actual ship, those often only show the hull itself and may or may not show the deck.
Also, you will end up having to order fittings sight unseen and may end up with some that you can't use because they are the wrong size, etc. I expect that many people have taken on very challenging ships or tasks from the start, drawn by the lure of the beauty of the ships.
His work was particularly popular in the United States, where his pieces can be found at the Peabody Essex Museum, the Smithsonian Institution, the Mystic Seaport Museum, the Mariners' Museum and the Naval Academy Museum at Annapolis. None the less, he continued to exhibit at the Model Engineer Exhibition until 1953, winning awards consistently throughout this period. Please do not post in capital letters only, as this is considered to be shouting and therefore impolite.
The sandwich structure of the hull provides me with a good guiding line for the lower bumper guard.
Here the wash it still wet, which makes it kind of prominent in the pictures:I plan to apply another coat of dull clear coat, which should blend the dirt effect of the wash with the background. If you're hell-bent on scratch building for the first time, I recommend a good set of detailed plans specifically made for building a model.
And, while some may be up to the challenge, my guess is the majority give up (like me and my Brig of War).
Maybe it would be even easer to fit the bulwark using straight strip and fix it section by section.Well, it went on OK even though he bulwark is leaning a bit to the starboard inside of the deck.
Otherwise, I think understanding how to deal with a LOT of things, deck included, comes from experience. There are just a lot of details that aren't touched on in most plans that I'm not sure how you are going to know about unless you are following some kind of descriptive guide. Any posts breaching these guidelines will promptly be removed from the server and the offender may be excluded from further posting to the HyperScale Forums.
Even though this lower bumper guard does not extend fully around the hull on the original vessel I still make it like this here first.
The bulwark should actually be slightly slanted to the inside, but I did not know how to achieve a constant slant, so I went for a straight bulwark.With the second bumper guard in place I drilled out the scuppers, added the reinforcements at the stern, the handrail along and support struts to the inside of the bulwark. It will be cut to proper length later.Its curing time again and I turn back to the upper deck. To blend the handrail with the bulwark I added two layers of Elmer’s to the gap between them.
I am using Mitsubishi Navy Green from WEM: A most beautiful green and IMHO pretty close to what I need. Google her and the AG and you’ll come up with a whole set of good photos and reference, especially if you follow the links to other forum, which in turn, will lead you to private photo collections. The cut-out for the access ladder and the various drilling spots are marked down same as the basic shape and positioning stubs of the wheel house are put in place. It worked out OK, even though this renders the edge of the bulwark a bit uneven.I turned my attention to the wheelhouse. Weathering will darken it.While paints are drying I start with the base just to have an idea. Support struts according to the reference at hand are being put in place underneath the deck overhang.While the starboard bumper guard is being glued on, I use the time to get some detail onto bulkhead. I printed the graphic onto a high grade paper and cut the windows and door from the side and back wall.
Next I’ll have to fill the tiny gaps between the sandwich layers with putty and smooth it over again.Wow! As the front wall on the original vessels consists of 5 panels, each containing a window, arranged in a very flat arc, so that the front of the wheelhouse is ever so slightly curved.



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