WayneNeither should a ship rely on one small anchor, nor should life rest on a single hope.
BTW, I loved the look of the Dapper Tom as soon as I saw a picture of it and it was what got me into this hobby.
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Rookie question here-What was the established deck planking patterns for the Royal Navy around 1760? Is there a book that has these details for this time period,and maybe others that I could get? I do not know just what to say other than I nibbed mine like the plans and in the book that I have Modeling an Armed Virginia Sloop of 1768 by Claton A.
Is there a tutorial somewhere on how to do the "hooked" and tapered planking that was used in this time period?
If you are a newer builder, the above method will be far easier for you and, as it turns out, quite correct for your ship. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website.
This special tool performs like a vice except that the jaws can be adjusted to clamp on an angle, to accommodate tapered items such as spars. Designed to be clamped on the edge of a table or workbench, it can also be mounted on a separate board for greater portability.
Arrow Models is a family owned business established in 1990 and is located near the beautiful seaside resort of Scarborough in North Yorkshire, England. Can you clarify your question, halbaby?Do you mean finding a centreline on top of the hull along the deck, or underneath for the keel, rudder and stem? If you use Tadeusz method - each layer could be made from two pieces using the join seam as the centerline.
One point - I think the USN requirements for submission to their museum include a solid hull be hollowed out - more shell than solid apparently. Think I would use a flat surface and secure the hull to it with the deck perpendicular to the flat surface.

I have seen pics of people using a table saw to split the hull in havles, using the keel slot as a guideline. Copper plates on the hull of the well-known Victory - model of the known modeller Evgeny Epur from Odessa. If I remember well, it was a while a feature of the royal navy for the plates to finish at an angle with a batten, while continental ships (and american?) preferred  1 to 3 layers of horizontal layers on the waterline. So could I use two rows of horizontal layers of copper plates at the waterline on my Syren? Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. Since these were the first three models I ever built, I didn't have a good appreciation of solid hull vs.
As for the the stations, the amount of wood to be removed varied from station to station (and from model to model) - and I imagine it would vary from kit to kit. I did get a bit carried away however, and had to add some back with wood filler, mostly in the area under the last two gunports. It's back in the blob a ways,but there is a couple of close photos showing the deck and the nibbing I did. In fact no margin plank either because you would be using a waterway up against the bulwark and the planks would be fitted up to it: for this era of warship. In your case, according to info I have prepared by Jim Roberts: "On large warships, the deck planking was tapered so that the outside planks ran parallel to and against the edge of the waterway. Chuck,I will have to get out my Confederacy kit and look up your instructions on the planking. The nibbing and the margin planks were fun to do.Now I have the hooked and taper planks to tame. At the end of September 2015 we closed our high street retail shop and moved to new business premises to concentrate on our successful and expanding online business.
I think I have formulated a plan using the information gained to build a jig to secure the roughed-out hull and transfer lines. Is the keelslot also carved into the hull?, that may complicate things in vase that slot isn't straight, or out of center.

Rather drastic, and it requires adding an additional layer, to compensate for the width of the sawblade. Evgeny Epur also great master in the field of a galvanoplasty, here some photo of its Santa Maria model executed in this equipment. Yes, you correctly remember distinctions between of the royal navy for the plates and continental ships and american.
Planked hulls, although I did add planks to both the Sultana and Dapper Tom above the water line.I was very pleased with the kits and since building a few plank on bulkhead kits, I think the amount of work is less for the solid hulls, but getting the correct hull shapes was harder for me with the solid hulls.
I am still not sure how I did that, except that I didn't use heavier stock for the templates.
I would say that Chuck is most certainly correct in what he says that they were used later.
The extreme forward plank ends were champfered off (cut off at an angle) against the waterway plank around the bows without being nibbed into a margin plank".
We know how important it is for our customers to have the confidence that they are dealing with professionals who have over 25 years of retailing experience. I will describe what I come up with and supply some pics in the near future for the benefit of others down the line. Once I had the approximate shape in both types, then I think getting the final smooth hull was more work with the POB hulls, mostly because of my bad planking techniques.
I am not claiming that Jim's book is dogma but, as with so many other modeling issues, you pick a horse and ride it.
However, I am sure there are many fine warship models of the 18th century that show nibbing, so I am open to other opinions. What I need is to locate and mark on the preshaped hull a centerline on the deck from stem to stern, and again along the keel from stem to sternpost.
I am open to change if there is a definitive right or wrong way that this planking detail should be built.

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