The weight of the hull as pictured coming off the building frame without the deck was 38 kg so he is well within the weight tolerance we set for the building of the hull which was 45kg off the building frame.
The plastic wrapping seen in the pictures is not the sheathing but peel ply which will stay on the boat until finished protecting the surface.
Ultimately I should be able to create a set of drawings for those who want to build one from scratch. Location: Burnett Heads Mirror 16 #185 I am reluctantly selling my mirror 16 due to overseas relocation. It appears that the transom and the rearmost sections of hull panels and the floor panels have been replaced on hull 189. Anyway, could someone please give me a measurement along the floor from the rear face of the bulkhead to the forward face of the transom panel (not the transom stiffeners).
I have set the hull on stands and then used a plumb-bob to markout the shape of the hull on the garage floor. The brown sheets leaning against the wall are 3mm card that I want to use to take templates from the hull also.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Also, I would suggest finishing the corners of the floor web apertures with quite a big radius. Originally Posted by Ozducati I have made a bit of progress in between running around over the weekend. The deadline for the plant shutdown (and my redundancy) looks like it's going to be March 31st, so I should have plenty of time on my hands to build the model. I impressed myself (but then again, I am easily impressed) with the centreboard slot dimension. I was thinking about your concerns regarding rot, and I remember when I was younger that one of my uncles had a pergola post that was starting to rot where the beam for the rafters was set into it. Location: Brisbane, Australia I received this email from the senior member of the Mirror 16 fleet in the US. Bob Just as well the development of plans is progressing, so that some of these boats can get new hulls.
I found blsiters popping up all over the hull this summer, so I popped them this winter and drained them, then proceeded to peel most of the fiberglass off of the wood. Location: Brisbane, Australia Hi Katrina, Great to have you contributing to this thread. Fasten the patch firmly to the outside with a few screws (maybe even nuts and bolts if you can get your hand inside). When the first lot of glue is set, glue the patch in place and screw through into the battens.
Location: Lawrence, Kansas Thanks for the advice, I hadn't thought to put stiffeners behind it, that is a fantastic idea.
One note, howevever, and it is what prompted my earlier question about the floor ribs, is that a rectangular shape is the worst shape to cut out of a rib, and also the worst shape to cut and replace structural pieces (such as the hull) of the boat.

Rod tells me that the cut-outs in the floor webs of his model is because he 'hasn't put rads on anything yet'. My wife asked me to mention that, if you have to strip old fibreglass, a heat gun is a great help.
Location: Brisbane, Australia Another point of possibly more general interest. A year or so back Lulubelle suffered a small but severe 'puncture wound' (due to a sharp rock hidden beneath the surface of a muddy beach) in the outer skin in a spot where I could not reach from inside..
A bit of epoxy glue around the hole and around the patch and I was able to manipulate it sideways through the oval hole, rotate it 90 degrees, then use the nails to pull it into the hole from the inside until the backing piece stopped against the inside of the hull. Under the corners of the deck where it meets the gunwales is a piece of timber which the Building Instructions refer to as a 'carlin'. I now have the hull shape defined in CAD and am currently adding in ribs the ribs, bulkhead and other detail.
Steve has not used any metal fasteners in the hull design with the exception of the mast step bolts. A length of 40x40x6mm equal angle lies across these tubes and can be moved to almost any position under hull. I reckon that my measurements will be within 5mm, and I will be comparing these against the Class Measurement Rules, so I think the results should be OK.
The width of the centreboard case slot is 25mm (in the centreboard case assembly that's above the floor). Ideally I would like to walk away from Fisher & Paykel and straight into another job, but the way the economy is looking at the moment I don't think that that will be the case. We first learned that a number of the webs in the centerboard area were cracked and broken. I was looking at your plans, and I was wondering if you were going to round out the corners of the sub-floor ribs, and if not your reason for doing so. It is very strange, it appears as though the glass was never wetted out with epoxy in the first place because what I am peeling off looks like dry cloth. Make it a neat (preferably rectangular) shape that generously covers the area to be patched.
I wasn't sure how to clamp the final piece into place, and screwing it into somthing that was clamped is a great idea. The corners of a rectangle create large stress concentrations which will break much sooner under much less load than a curved corner, which is why most aircraft and boat ribs have circular cutouts.
It would be much better to make it a rectangle (or at least a quadrilateral) with rounded corners. I might try it, although you should see how easy it pulled off, especially when it was still damp.
After seeing all the grief that people are having with cracked ribs I was thinking of doubling the thickness of the web in this area by laminating a second thickness of 4mm ply.
The white hull with the lacquered deck is what I envisage for mine when it comes time to build it.

I spent some time a few weeks ago down on the Brisbane River where 3 Mirror 16s met up for a day out, and I took the opportunity to meet them at the boat ramp before they set off got a few more measurements from the hulls. Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers. Also they have added an inner panel to the transom, and knees where the transom meets the keel and the gunwales.
I have also marked out other key points like the centreboard slot, hull centreline, and the joint where the side panels meet the bottom panels (is this called a 'chine'?).
When resting on any two of the three parallel steel tubes the equal angle is effectively a datum plane. It is unfornutuate, and I have a rather large hole in the bottom of the hull just forward of the centerboard casing that I need to cut out and fix. It is much more difficult now that it is cold outside and everything has become very brittle. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois).
By measuring vertically from the upper face of the equal angle to points on the hull I can get the relative heights of these points.
If the model turns out looking half decent the Wooden Boat Club can have it if you think it could be used to fill an empty space on a shelf somewhere. Maybe you could slosh some around inside Lulubelle, or throw a bag of salt around in there.
After two season of sailing, may granddaughter discovered some bubbles under the fiberglass cloth covering the hull. Any advice from anyone who has cut pieces out of the hull and put them back would be greatly appreciated because I am really not sure how to go about doing that. I think I will make some makeshift stringers where the patch is to go and secure them with clamps and epoxy before putting the patch in. That way I will have something moderately structural to attach the patch to when the time comes. I have been worked with building small boats using CNC cut ply panels before and I think the structure of the 16 might well lend itself to this process.
There should still be limber holes in all of the floor webs to allow drainage through the drain ports in the transom. I know some M16 owners fit the limber holes in the two solid webs with bungs which they can remove via an access port if necessary. She competed in a centerboard class this past season at the local Yacht Club in Kansas in a mixed group using the Portsmouth handicap numbers and won first place for the season.

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