Location: Portugal Finally I was able to find the proper magazines and had time to scan the data on the Swan boats. I have suggested these two boats to you, because I believe that the Swan46 is a more seaworthy and stable boat than the swan 45 (even if this one is a very seaworthy one). The GZ curves of both boats are great, among the best in their categories, but the much superior displacement of the Swan 46 will give it a bigger RM curve. Originally Posted by Guillermo The FDS is calculated using the positive area under the righting arm curve, up to the Avs in this case (as Afl>Avs).
This way, displacement is not considered and what enters the calculations instead is the Length of the boat.
Location: Pontevedra, Spain Thanks a lot for the curves, Paulo, although I thought we were talking about the 44 and the 45, not 45 and 46.
As I told before, to calculate some of the STIX factors the stability curves input info are taken from the GZ curve, not the RM one. As you correctly point out, it's surprising the so-called Dynamic Stability factor seems to take not into consideration the righting moments, as dynamic stability is related to the amount of energy available, thus the area under the righting moments curve. I would like to add that Working Group 22 (STIX parent group) analized a list of Category 1 sailing boats models, known for not having had stability problems through their lives, and they developed a limiting RM-Loa data curve, so the symplistic FDS formula probably was derived from there or the like. Location: Pontevedra, Spain At last a designer publicising the whole STIX factors!
About those explanations about the FDS, I have my doubts, and if you compare the RM stability curves of the Swan 45 and 46 and compare them with the STIX of those boats, you are going to see what I mean.
About the boats you have posted, the Huzar 30 seems to be a very nice boat, with an Impressive Gz curve. About the AVS and the size of the boat I consider that the MCA guys have the right policies: Smaller the boat, the bigger should be the AVS (because small boats withstand more risk of capsizing than bigger boats).
And now, let's see her ratios and STIX based on those numbers (Measurements have been taken directly from the boat. The basic problem to fulfill the A category requirements, from the hull forms point of view, is that the very narrow aft sections and relatively low freeboard of the hull (compared to modern ones) provide relatively little buoyancy when heeled, so the downflooding angle (to the upper corner of the companionway) remains low. From my point of view, the seakindliness should not only consider keeping low all six possible accelerations induced by the sea, as to increase comfort of the crew and avoid damage to the equipment, but also, and most important, the damping of rolling movements and the minimizing of broaching tendency, back from the design stage, which are vital for seaworthiness in rough seas.
Location: North Of Lake Ontario Excellent Document About page 20 of the document is data for the etap 21i. To say which one is the definitive STIX for a boat, calculations have to be done for the Minimum Operating Condition (MOC) and Full Load Condition (FLC), at least, and choose the lowest of the two values.
Because of this kind of misleading info, some contradictory data and the lacking of a lot of basic info for many boats, I think this RYA list has to be taken with great care. Location: Pontevedra, Spain Another interesting comparison If you have a look at Contessa 32 and Etap 32S at RYA list, you'll find their STIX numbers as being 33 and 36. If we took from the Etap 32's STIX the effect of the 5 points given by its delta parameter (because of the floatation chambers I asume it has), figure comes down to a mere 30.7, so not reaching category A requirements. On the flotability issue, I agree with you that floatation ability is an important safety one, but I would not use it to influence the STIX number in itself. Location: Portugal Most people would think that by buying a more voluminous and apparently heavier cruising boat will have a safer boat than the sleek cruiser-racer from the same manufacturer.
Tall Ships - the words conjure up a wonderful mix of impressions, square-rigged leviathans with towering masts and billowing sails, leaning majestically to the wind, of sleek schooners gliding gracefully across the water. Sailing ships continued to be economically viable for cargo transport as recently as the 1920s.
The period in the later 1800s when the popularity and efficiency of commercial sailing vessels was at its peak is generally referred to as The Golden Age of Sail or the Clipper Ship era. It began on March 25th, 1849 when the sleek black hull of the tea clipper Sea Witch entered New York Harbor. Sailing vessels were pushed into narrower and narrower economic niches and gradually disappeared from commercial trade. Today, they're economically viable for small scale coastal fishing, sail excursions and training and of course the Tall Ship Races. Kids, give a donation of 30-40 ribbon wrapped coloring pages to children's hospitals, orphanages, church and day care centers. Classic boats are not only an investment opportunity they are a declaration of personal style.
If you have a passion for beautiful boats, you will appreciate sailing a wooden boat is one of the most pleasurable, satisfying feelings in the world. The most cost effective way to own an vintage boat is to buy a well cared for and restored craft where its history and craftmanship is fully documented throughout the years.
For the inexperienced vintage boat investor, however, the problem is knowing where to to find top quality boats. The significant difference between a classic wooden boat, and a modern day fiberglass (GRP) boat is the design shape of the hull, and the sailing or motoring characteristics. The deck area of a wooden boat typically has more bright work to be maintained than a fiberglass boat.

In today’s boat market, it is still substantially less expensive to buy a classic wooden boat, than a fiberglass production boat.
Most individuals have come to understand the desire to buy classic older homes that have been restored with modern amenities. Some would say that sailing is a fine art a€“ mastering the skill, knowing how to read the wind and sea, and how to set the sails so that you travel into the right direction is indeed a skill.
Sunrise is one of the most peaceful and beautiful parts of the day, and on a boat you will be able to see it in all its purity. The key to capturing a striking sunset silhouette is to have a strong background of bright colors and a strong shape in the foreground.
Shooting a portrait while sailing gives an interesting angle as the ship and sky will also feature in the image.
A boat has many interesting subjects for close-up photos; the fixtures, the sails, the ropes, the wheel, the anchor, etc.
Sailing captures the essence of summer time and those breezy days that people spend relaxing and having fun.
If I am looking at it correctly this will benefit light boats and won?t take into account the role that displacement has in boat?s stability. But then displacement is introduced separately, so the multiplying of this last times righting arm gives the RM. Its GZ curve is average and shows a significant inverted stability and a an AVS of only 117º, that I consider too low for a 30ft. William Boag had a boat yard in Largs and between 1955 and 1965 he built 50+ Loch Longs yachts.
If the boat would have somewhat wider sections and an slightly higher freeboard, as to provide a downflooding angle just over 100º, as well as a longer Lwl (shorter overhangs), it would have probably come to an STIX over 32, so fulfilling Category A requirements.
The 33 value for Contessa 32 is not trustable enough (maybe it is not even 32) and the Etap 32S STIX is in fact 35.7 not 36, so an additional reason not to trust the RYA list.
You can have a boat with a great stability but if you hit a container at full speed, unless you have a metal boat, or an insubmergible one, probably you will go down (of course, by the same criteria metal boats should benefit from the same criteria and I don?t think it is the case). I have said that referring the Bavaria Ocean line, comparing with the normal line of Bavarias, but here we have the same case with the Jeanneau 43 line.
It's an important period during which wind-powered sailing ships carried European settlers to many parts of the new world. During a five hour battle, the main fleet of Ottoman war galleys, while sailing westward near Athens, were intercepted and defeated by Pope St. These events rendered sail power in warfare obsolete and opened the era of war between ironclad battleships. They didn't require fuel; thus tended to operate more independently without a mainland support base. It immediately preceded the era before paddle wheel and propeller-driven vessels began taking trade away from sailing ships. The boats of historical significance designed and built from the late 19th century through the mid 20th century were known for their sailing ability, ascetic beauty, craftsmanship, construction methods, and design innovation.
Classic wooden boats, like all boats fall into one of three categories of condition: like new, needs work, and project. There is no difference with regard to the need for painting the bottom of a fiberglass or a wooden boat.
The bright work maintenance schedule is based on the protection from UV rays, and the product used to finish the bright work.
This includes buying a larger classic wooden boat to be able to obtain the interior space of a modern fiberglass production boat. If we are unable to satisfy ourselves about the history of a boat and guarantee that the work and restoration carried out has been done satisfactorily and to the highest standard, then we will not sell it. Sunrise and sunset photos are taken during the a€?golden houra€?, which is the first or last hour of sunlight. The best way to obtain high quality close-ups is by using special macro lenses, normally 50mm to 200mm.
For sunsets and sunrises, or any dramatic colors in the sky, check your white balance a€“ set it for daylight to get the deep reds, but you can change it to tungsten and obtain a different set of colors (still red and purple, but less pronounced). Dona€™t be restricted to just taking pictures of the boats, and remember to pay attention to the smaller details. And another question, If I have to report authorship… Should I put a link to this website or only the author’s name? This is done this way to calculate the FKR (knowdown recovery factor) and the Vaw (steady apparent widspeed to heel the vessel to Φd when carrying full sail) necessary to calculate the FWM (wind moment factor). I have said that I had data on the Swan 45 and 46, not on the 44, (that?s an older boat; see post 101) and the comparison that I had proposed was between the 45 and the 46, precisely because the 46 is a much heavier boat and surprisingly, has a smaller STIX than the 45. Its GZ curve is average and shows a significant inverted stability and a an AVS of only 117?, that I consider too low for a 30ft.
There are still quite large fleets of these (you may search under Cove Sailing Club on the Clyde) and, strangely, the largest fleet down at Aldburgh in Suffolk (Thanks from here to my scottish friend Colin Whimster, who provided this info on the boatbuilder, as I've found nothing in internet).

But you give the impression that most modern boats use that criteria for the STIX ( I mean that they are insubmergible) and that is not the case. We can see that the cruiser-racer, the Sun-Fast has a better stability curve comparing with the cruising versions. Painting the hull of a wooden boat is not done any more often than the need to clean and wax a fiberglass hull to remove oxidation. The only added cost is the potential increased cost of moorage, which is a non-item when considering the difference in the purchase price. Both these homes, and these cars have dramatically increased in value, as the demand has increased. The West Coast of the United States, and European countries such as Italy, France, and the UK are now driving the market for classic wooden boats.
From a photographera€™s perspective, ita€™s a chance to get some fine images of the vessel, the sea, and to capture the nautical atmosphere.
Use a wide-angle lens (10-42mm) for a broad perspective, and shoot with a variety of different exposures.
You must work quickly a€“ place your camera on a tripod, turn the flash off and set the mode dial to AV (Aperture Priority) mode. First take a light reading of just the bright area, then press the shutter half way down, point the camera at your subject and snap the photo. If the day is bright, try using fill-in flash so the subject's face is lit, not just a dark shadow. You almost want to exaggerate the reds, oranges and purples (something you can enhance during post processing). A tripod or a beanbag is useful if you are on a ship to create a sturdy base, that will slightly compensate for the rocking of the waves. The difference in displacement is minimal and don’t have any real influence on the stability of the different versions. The vast majority of modern day fiberglass production boats are designed to maximize interior space, with little regard to sailing or motoring ability. Some of the best boat restoration done world-wide is now taking place in these geographical regions. Aperture priority mode is ideal if you arena€™t used to photographing sunsets, as the camera will determine the correct shutter speed. Choose a low ISO for good image quality and use a sturdy tripod for extra stability - blur is very obvious in macro shots.
If you overexpose the image, these colors will be more dramatic (only A? to a full stop of overexposure is necessary; try bracketing to get the most varied results).
You might try to move your body in the same rhythm of the waves, too, but this requires a high degree of skill. Sailing is a unique activity that presents various photographic images only available on the water.
That's why probably it would be good, following Eliasson, to introduce a GZ area Ratio Factor measuring the relation among the positive and negative areas. At the same time, the deck of a fiberglass boat will oxidize if left uncovered, and not protected from the effects of UV rays. At the same time, the demand to own restored classic wooden boats has increased substantially along with their value. If you struggle to get a sharp image you can push the ISO up although ISO 200 is a good starting point. Remember, if youa€™re actually on a boat, a tripod wona€™t help with reducing the wave motion, so youa€™ll want to use a high shutter speed and high ISO.
Remember to use a polarizing filter and lens hood to prevent glare and reflections from the water.
The most difficult part about photographing on the water is compensating for the rocking motion of the waves. The answer for reducing the maintenance for the deck area for both types of boats is using a boat cover.
Remember that by pressing the shutter, you cause a slight movement, and when the image is magnified, any blur will be apparent. As you are working close to water, dona€™t forget to protect your gear; water housing is ideal and will protect the camera should you drop it into water, but you can also use plastic covers.
This requires using higher shutter speeds and perhaps a higher ISO to help counter the motion blur caused by waves.
Covered moorage is also an option for protection from UV rays for power boats, where available. Always have the strap attached to the body and wear this around your neck or loop it a few times over your wrist.

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