Originally Posted by Anchy Thanks for advice as I am just about to cut marine ply to fit the windows. A template and flush cut bit set in a router make quick work of it if you have a number to do. Use a spiral bit which cuts towards the side which can afford to have the bit of tear out which occurs.
Location: United Kingdom Thanks for advice, I am afraid that I will have to cut with jigsaw as I dont have a router at the moment, so I have to improvise.
Location: Eustis, FL Jig saws and circular saws rip out grain on the top of the cutting piece, while table saws rip out the bottom face. It's all about two things: knowing your tool (how fast it likes to cut and what angle it might want to dive too if pushed) and second good, sharp blades.
Go slow, use a sharp blade, don't force the cut and sneak up on the line, so you don't cut too much. Location: La Florida What I do is to make a guide either straight or curved to shape from low quality wood clamped to work piece and let the jigsaw, router or circular saw slide along it. Location: United Kingdom Hoytedow, thanks, that is exactly how I am gonna use it.
Cutting panels in bow is nightmare, i try scribing it, using cardboard as guide etc by seems that is always wrong! A good method to cut down on this is to always cut with the good side facing down, as this edge will cut cleaner. You can also razor the cut line before making the cut, so that rip out on the surface is precut and you have the razored edge to look at. Paul covered the subject so thoroughly he didn't leave any room for me to put my two cents in.
Location: United Kingdom To all advisers bih help and of course more questions Thanks again for advises and sharing your knowledge.
Originally Posted by hoytedow What I do is to make a guide either straight or curved to shape from low quality wood clamped to work piece and let the jigsaw, router or circular saw slide along it. I use these along with a big stationary pin router to set up for all sorts of inlay and template work. Very handy for dropping solid timber trim rings into panels such as a teak surround in a circular floor hatch etc.

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Location: bellville, tx 17ft plywood runabout I just purchased my first wood boat. Location: Orlando Since this is your first wooden boat I suggest you call a boat carpenter, restorer or maybe a surveyor to get you the real low down on this boat.
Painting over the old paint doesn't mean sanding down to raw wood, unles the old stuff is in such bad shape that it must be stripped. Hunter25 made a good point, you must be very careful to look the boat over for damage & rot. If you expose any wood during your work, I would suggest sealing it with CPES (Clear Penitrating Epoxy Sealer). Oops, i misread, your more like an inch so you want a 300mm setback for 12:1, What the hell are you building that has 25mm bulkheads? I do the clamp and powerplane method and then finish off with a sat180 sander and 36 grit. Any fool with a big enough checkbook can BUY a boat; it takes a SPECIAL type of fool to build his own!
So let me take the opportunity to say merry Christmas, happy holidays and a wonderful new year to us all.
I wonder if this forum is still going on as I started work for very first time on a boat and is very very tricky.
I did cabinet making in workshop before, did everything on machine, so I am not very experianced with hand tools but I am ready for challenge.
Most jig saws will tend to wander in specific directions, depending on which side of the line you're cutting. While i was studying I kept picking up peaces in diff shapes to use than in future as a guide.
Use a saw guide to make straight cuts, don't force the saw, let the blade do the work, not your arms. The 2 photo im gonna attached now are first is the boat im working and second is how i decide to do window frame. 50 year old boats, even ones living in barns half of the time will have problems, most not easily seen by the novice or first time wooden boat owner.

If the paint has lots of age showing, it will probably have lead in it, so protect yourself as you sand it smooth.
I put battons all around windows so I wonder what shell I use between Ply and window rubber?
Table saws have the teeth rotating down, through the table, so the rip out occurs under the work, while jig and circular saws have upward facing teeth, so the opposite happens.
For example, if your blade is cutting to the right of the line, you often have to cock the saw slightly to the left as you cut, to keep the blade on course and tracking down the line. I wish that I have a router as its best for curves but jigsaw will do with fine blade, I also used the masking tape and cut the faced dowm marine to min.
Its very hard and is grainy and the woven bamboo is full of resin and takes the edge of a saw very quickly . Set the blade so just the teeth and the gap between the teeth show though the cut, no more.
Somebody advice to scribe but i find to be very tricky, so i did exact shape to fit widow in sacrificial ply and got frame on the top and with 2 screws in the middle of the window i got position of opening for window right.
You will be done with a whole boats worth of scarfs before your done picking your ass trying to figure out your routing jig. This limits your cutting angle to 90 degrees of course, but once tried you will never go back. The paint will probably be oil based and you will have good results if you stick with that type of paint.
Cutting on the opposite side of the line does the reverse and you need to steer the saw away from the line, to keep the blade on course. On that picture you can see that I started to glue some battens around window on which Im gonna screw 3mm marine ply (the one i hold in picture).
Before you paint, have the fasteners checked and the structural areas of the boat looked at. I dont know what to use between my ply and window as it will be inch gap, or shell I take that battens out, send that metal around and fix ply directly to it?

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